Epox 8K7A POST Problems - Please Help!

[Courtland]

Here is my config, theres more hardware but not installed right now.
epox 8k7a
amd atlon 1.4ghz ayhja y
512mb ddr micron 2100 ram
swiftech mc462a w/ arctic silver II
antec 300w psu

problem: this board would not post on first bootup attempt, I have been able to get it to boot up on certain ocasions but it seems completely random, Ive tried only one dimm, ive tried everything from all my peripherals to none pluged in, ive tried different multiplier and fsb settings, tried a 250w generic psu, I don't think its the psu, and its not my cpu because when I can post, everything works fine and its completely stable in windows. when it doesnt post everything has power and I get an error code of FF immediately after power on, on the leds, when it does post it goes through the different numbers, etc, and works properly. The only thing I can say is that it seems to post more often when the case is flat on the ground, and if I put it upright it locks up, but I have had it up and running with the case upright. I beleive I mounted the hsf correctly, but it seems like thats what was causing the problems, I tried tightening it also, didn't help at all. Sadly I think I eventualy ruined my board, however I was still having problems before this. Because of the small holes on the mboard I didnt use the plastic inserts that go into the holes, however that was per the mc462-a instructions. The board is now completely apart and I beleive that when I tightened the hsf the raised gold spacer things that support the hsf had ground themselves into the board and broken one of the small things near the socket. Im sorry I don't know what these are called, it was a very small plastic rectangular piece, about half the size of a gun pellet, sodered to the board in two places. Does anyone know if I have in fact ruined my board, or can I just connect the two soder spots. Also, any suggestions on getting this thing to post correctly. I plan on returning my board for another, however I am hesitant with all the problems people have been having with this board lately. Also, for one of my final tests I did not fully mount the hsf, however because the swiftech isnt a clip type hsf like the others I didn't think this would matter, I just layed it on the cpu, and yes it had arctic silver on it, however on one of the tries it seemed to develop an odd smelling copperish residue on the hsf, any chance I could of fried cpu? Any help would be greatly appreciated...

 

[Courtland]

bump

 

[TunaBoo]

Dont use a netgear fa311 NIC like me

 

[Courtland]

im not

 

[Courtland]

bump

 

[anime]

well as you might already know--try to boot with bare minimum installed and go from there part by part to pin-point the problems. If you got friend with similar setup--try to switch cpu and the mobo and see if the same syndrome happen.
Your CPU prolly fine--your mobo prolly defective but who knows.

i'm getting the same cpu and mobo like urs pretty soon.

 

[TunaBoo]

Depending on brand and type of PSU it MIGHT not be cutting it on the 3.3 V rail. For 1.4 GHz, you want in the 350-400 range.

 

[kormaster]

you are using 250 watt PS??? That is powering 2ton mercedez-benz with civic SI engine... get something bigger.... and u are supposed to get FF code when it is running.. mine says FF

 

[TunaBoo]

<< you are using 250 watt PS??? That is powering 2ton mercedez-benz with civic SI engine... get something bigger.... and u are supposed to get FF code when it is running.. mine says FF >>



He has 300

 

[jagr10]

Did you buy the oem 1.4 gig cpu or the retail which comes with a proper heatsink?

 

[Renob]

Dude FF means your good to go.

 

[Courtland]

No I only tried a 250 to see if it would work, and I only had the bare minimum pluged in so I don't think I would of had power consumption problems. Can anyone plase comment on my cpu issue, I think I am going to rma the board. I want to make sure I didnt burn my cpu when the mc462 was not mounted on the cpu, I had just set it there, seems like the same to me minus the pressure. But that odd orangish residue and the funny smell on the arctic silver I put on the die scared me.

 

[NelsonMuntz]

<< Dude FF means your good to go. >>


Actually the FF from the manual means that you have gotten past the POST process and that the board thinks your OS has already taken over. I noticed problems similar to this with the same mb, but it was running a Netgear NIC like TunaBoo which I took out and problem solved. There are some FAQ answer about that on Epox's website. Have you checked there?

 

[Courtland]

yes I have checked everything, I don't know what to do but return it.

 

[Cattlegod]

it sounds like a lose connection. what i mean by this is a pin of some sort somewhere is not fully connected, and when your system is laying down it is more likely to be touching and working, hence the working only in one position. it could be a power line, or any part or pin on your system.

that is just my conclusion from what you have said.

 

[Jvolm]

According to my Epox 8K7A manual:

FF System booting. This means that the BIOS already pass the control right to the operating system.

Dontcha love the translated grammar?

I just opened my case &amp; looked, and the readout says FF right now. Kinda odd, though that it would read FF right after power up, tho.

Anyways, Ive had this board running for weeks now, with no trouble, except for what I've caused by my bumbling tweaking...

I'd say it's a short problem; put the spacers in &amp; make sure there are no loose screws rattling around in the case. The fact that it boots better if the case is lying down says to me that there is something making contact and potentially shorting yor board when the case is upright.

 

[Courtland]

Im going to just return it and go buy a kg7-raid localy. Can someone PLEASE comment on my cpu, is there anyway I could of fried it with the heatsink on like that and the board not posting, that odd residue scared me on the last posting attempt.

 

[circut16]

sounds like you broke a capacitor or resistor, board maybe shot.
remember actic silver is conductive, keep away from resistors on CPU

 

[Courtland]

I did get some outside the die on the cpu but I removed it with alcohol before booting the cpu, I don't think that did anything.

 

[circut16]

what about the broken resistor on the board

 

[Courtland]

I don't know if it was a resistor, but yes that was broken, very tiny, I don't know if I did it from tightening the mc462 or what, because it was posting randomly before I tigthened it, and after I tightened it the first time, then I tightened it again and it wouldnt post. I just want to make sure my cpu is ok, im getting a new board today.

 

[GrumpyMan]

Not a big help on your problem but I also had a FA311 that crapped out in 2 months. Will never buy another one. I couldn't boot until I swapped it out with a 3-Com.

 

[TunaBoo]

<< Not a big help on your problem but I also had a FA311 that crapped out in 2 months. Will never buy another one. I couldn't boot until I swapped it out with a 3-Com. >>



Once, I had a bike crap out on me. I will NEVER buy another one.

 

[spanner]

The board I just returned would show FF the second I powered on then would go to a blank screen with a flashing cursor, its a mobo problem. I tried clearing the CMOS but it wouldn't even power on after that. Before this error MY board was reall unstable, I have had many people tell me the ram was the cause of all the problems

 

[TunaBoo]

<< The board I just returned would show FF the second I powered on then would go to a blank screen with a flashing cursor, its a mobo problem. I tried clearing the CMOS but it wouldn't even power on after that. Before this error MY board was reall unstable, I have had many people tell me the ram was the cause of all the problems >>



He has 2 sticks of ram, he could try them 1 at a time.


It is a common misconception that unplugging all your devices will somehow allow a 250 watt PSU to power a 1.5 GHz t-bird. This is simply not the case. A 250 wat PSU is rated at so much power on the 3.3 V rail. It can ONLY put out so much without blowing or lagging the voltage. Hard drives and CD-Roms use the 5 and 12V rails, NOT the 3.3V rail. A good enermax 350-400 watter will give you enough on the 3.3V rail for all your needs (except maybe dually t-bird 1.4GHz or similar).