Do you still use optical media?

[bob4432]

The problem is simply that writeable DVDs use an organic die to write on, which, depending on storage conditions, doesn't last all that long. Blu-rays* use a phase change medium for writing, and so should last quite a bit longer. For archival grade material M-Disc should be even better, and can also be found in standard DVD format.

Another thing to watch out for is writing speed. If possible keep it between 2x and 4x. But it really deserves a full write-up on its own.

*Avoid the LTH variety of blu-rays. They use the same organic die as DVDs. But they are cheaper.

Thanks for the info. What exactly do you mean by "a full write-up on its own"? I have not problem burning @ 2x or 4x if that is the way to insure a more permanent burn?

 

[Insert_Nickname]

Thanks for the info. What exactly do you mean by "a full write-up on its own"? I have not problem burning @ 2x or 4x if that is the way to insure a more permanent burn?

I'll try to keep this simple and straightforward. Unfortunately this subject is anything but.

The reason why you should keep below 4x (occasionally 6x) has to do with the writing strategy employed by the drive. The two main ones are CLV and CAV, and then the various permutations thereof (Z-CLV, Z-CAV and such).

CLV stands for Constant Linear Velocity. This is what old-fashion CDs employ. CLV lowers the rotation speed as the laser moves away from the center to ensure the data track moves at a constant rate over the laser head. There is a finite limit to RPMs you can subject a disc to without undue vibration affecting readability. This happens at around 24.000RPM, or to put it in CD speed terms, around 48x. In DVD that'd be 16x.
CAV, Constant Angular Velocity, is basically the opposite. The disc keeps spinning at a fixed RPM, hence the data track moves faster across the laser the further from the centre you get. This also makes your drive do an excellent turbine impression, when the speed is set high enough...

When you write a disc you'll want to use a CLV strategy to ensure maximum exposure from the laser to the write medium across the entire disc. There is simply more time for the laser to leave an "impression" on the die. Most drives, with a few exceptions, only employ "clean" CLV up to around 4x DVD or 16x CD. The other way round, you don't want to go lower then DVD 2x, most drives doesn't allow this anyway, is that some of the more modern media requires a certain exposure, or you'll have a blank disc when finished.

 

[bob4432]

Appreciate the explanation

I'll try to keep this simple and straightforward. Unfortunately this subject is anything but.

The reason why you should keep below 4x (occasionally 6x) has to do with the writing strategy employed by the drive. The two main ones are CLV and CAV, and then the various permutations thereof (Z-CLV, Z-CAV and such).

CLV stands for Constant Linear Velocity. This is what old-fashion CDs employ. CLV lowers the rotation speed as the laser moves away from the center to ensure the data track moves at a constant rate over the laser head. There is a finite limit to RPMs you can subject a disc to without undue vibration affecting readability. This happens at around 24.000RPM, or to put it in CD speed terms, around 48x. In DVD that'd be 16x.
CAV, Constant Angular Velocity, is basically the opposite. The disc keeps spinning at a fixed RPM, hence the data track moves faster across the laser the further from the centre you get. This also makes your drive do an excellent turbine impression, when the speed is set high enough...

When you write a disc you'll want to use a CLV strategy to ensure maximum exposure from the laser to the write medium across the entire disc. There is simply more time for the laser to leave an "impression" on the die. Most drives, with a few exceptions, only employ "clean" CLV up to around 4x DVD or 16x CD. The other way round, you don't want to go lower then DVD 2x, most drives doesn't allow this anyway, is that some of the more modern media requires a certain exposure, or you'll have a blank disc when finished.

 

[PingSpike]

All the time actually. I get a lot of TV shows, audio books and newer movies from the local library and netflix mail in disks. I find this is the cheapest way to watch new stuff and it augments my netflix and HBO streaming services.

I don't really back anything up to optical, its way to cumbersome and limited and it seemed more expensive than external hard drives last time I investigated it. I do end up burning an annoying amount of bootable utilities onto CD still though, it seems like putting them on USB drives and making them bootable is often problematic.

 

[chane]

No way would I ever give up my JVC XV-NA70BK DVD player and Pioneer LX500 BD player. Both have great sound quality and slow motion and zoom controls not found even among highly rated top Panasonic and Sony models. And decoding a DVD or BD’s DTS MA soundtracks via JRiver player to feed a high end USB multichannel DAC driven surround sound system can deliver better sound quality than streaming.

Public libraries throughout my county are linked to a central online catalog, and after checking the new titles every couple months at

https://variety.com/v/film/reviews/
https://www.nytimes.com/2016/12/07/movies/the-best-movies-of-2016.html
https://mubi.com/films/most-dangerous-man-alive
https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/review/gliksmans-1243359
http://www.noircity.com/index.html

and other places at least one of the libraries will have the DVD or BD. My library also offers free access to https://www.kanopy.com/category/9513 where I get 10 free movies a month.

It’s bad enough being charged upwards of $45./month for less than unlimited wifi; I refuse to pay monthly fees to see any movies-especially as my property taxes help to fund my local public library. Ten years ago there was talk of free wifi throughout the adjoining county; political patronage and greedy media conglomerates killed that no doubt.

Furthermore, I periodically watch lots of the same movies and TV episodes for years from my large DVD and BD collection, but the bean counters at Netflix, Hulu, Amazon and other streaming services will toss a favorite title soon after sales start falling off. And since they typically offer no download options a copy stored on optical media is often the best way to retain access to vintage content.

Some may find accessing new and older movies and TV shows via optical media cumbersome but the tradeoffs usually work for me.

 

[aleader]

Dumb question, do you need a blu-ray 'burner' to rip blu-rays to digital storage? I haven't had a burner in my rig for many years now. Is there still a million hoops to go through to get around copy protection?