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Do you regret buying your car?

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Model: 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
Price: $31959
Time: July 2003
Regrets: Absolutely none.
Would you recommend to others?: Only if you're looking for this kind of vehicle.

Originally posted by: PaulNEPats
2004 Subaru WRX last year
$21k after taxes
15k miles

I regret purchasing it since I don't drive it as much as I thought I would.

That's where you and I differ. I've only done 15k miles in just over two years, but I've thoroughly enjoyed every single one of them. 🙂
 
There were two.

I bought a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee (New) Was 26K. Drove fine, only real problem was it warped the brakes twice.

I only took it for a 10 minute test drive, and that's where I screwed up. As soon as I started driving it for longer than 15-20 minutes,
My back started hurting. BAD. Besides that, I had to lean forward to be able to see traffic lights, unless I was wayyyy back when I stopped.
The steering wheel was too far to the right. I thought it was just mine, but they were all like that. When it was 18 months old, I traded it for a
2000 GMC Sierra Pickup. I was very happy with it, until it was wrecked and never was the same again.

But the worst one of all was the first one I bought on my own, a new 1977 Dodge PowerWagon (4X4 pickup). First thing that should have told me it
was going to be a bad ownership experience was when the dealer "forgot" to charge me sales tax. I was convinced they actually had forgotten it,
but I found out it was a scam when a guy with a nearly identical truck tells me they did the same thing to him and he paid it. It got nasty real quick.
Then the problems with the truck itself began, 2 fires under the dash, broken axle, electrical problems galore, even doing my own work after the warranty
expired, I spent over 4K, on parts over three years, and there were thousands of dollars worth of warranty repairs too. When it blew the tranny for the second
time, that was it, it was gone. I pity the fool who bought it after I traded it..
 
Nope. I bought my 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix back in January. The only problem I've had with it is one of the window motors broke and that was easy to fix. Got it for a thousand under blue book too. I'm very satisfied.
 
Yes and no...

I bought a 2004 Mazda RX-8. I believe I got the first one delivered in the state of New Jersey, but idiotically because I was in such a rush to have it first.. I paid MSRP to get it. Now looking at the prices, I could have saved $5000 off that price had I waited like a year.

Don't get me wrong, I love the car, but when my lease is up it's DEFINATELY going back. I only get about 15mpg (the way I drive) and with gas prices going nuts, I think I'm going to get something else. I was thinking of getting a new BMW M3 as my next car, but I'll make sure I don't buy it like I did the RX-8 and become a total moron.
 
Originally posted by: Scouzer
I'll start.

Model: 1991 Chevrolet Beretta GT
Price: $3100
Time: 2004
Regrets: Did not get mechanical inspection prior to buying which cost me greatly. Now that is over with, I am satisfied with the budget transportation.
Would you recommend to others?: No.

Jesus, that's a terrible deal.
 
97 chevrolet pickup
bought in summer of 2001
had 70,000 miles on it
bought for 8k
love it, the only thing that has gone wrong with it is the fuel pump went out on me (sucked) 400$ repair, but it has 130k on it know and is running great, doesn't even lose a drop of oil!
 
Originally posted by: casper114
Originally posted by: Scouzer
I'll start.

Model: 1991 Chevrolet Beretta GT
Price: $3100
Time: 2004
Regrets: Did not get mechanical inspection prior to buying which cost me greatly. Now that is over with, I am satisfied with the budget transportation.
Would you recommend to others?: No.

Jesus, that's a terrible deal.

1) Used car market in Alberta is significantly different than anywhere in the USA
2) At the time it was one of the only Beretta's without peeling paint and I really wanted a Beretta
3) Lick my ass
 
Originally posted by: jadinolf
No

RAV4L (1997) $22,040

Would recommend it. I understand they sell for less now.

It's fine.

i got a 1997 rav4 (non-limited) for a little less but it still runs prefectly 8 years later.

i love it.
 
Model: 1998 Accord EX 4DR Sedan V6
Price: $1
Time: June 2004
Regrets: Bought this one off my parents instead of the other one (same car, but 4cyl MT) because it had less miles and 2 working mirrors (thanks MCrusty...) In the year I have had it I have had to spend about 1000 on fixing problems, and I also need to buy new tires as well (partially due to those problems)
Would you recommend to others?: Sure, wanna buy mine so I can get an M3?
 
Originally posted by: Scribe
Yes and no...

I bought a 2004 Mazda RX-8. I believe I got the first one delivered in the state of New Jersey, but idiotically because I was in such a rush to have it first.. I paid MSRP to get it. Now looking at the prices, I could have saved $5000 off that price had I waited like a year.

Don't get me wrong, I love the car, but when my lease is up it's DEFINATELY going back. I only get about 15mpg (the way I drive) and with gas prices going nuts, I think I'm going to get something else. I was thinking of getting a new BMW M3 as my next car, but I'll make sure I don't buy it like I did the RX-8 and become a total moron.



Rotary engines are known to be gas guzzlers.

M3's are great cars, I would definitely look into those.
 
lol rotaries are gas guzzlers...no my friend. rotaries are KNOWN for not being reliable, but the gas mileage isn't impressive at all.
 
Sort of. If I knew gas was going up so much, I would have kept my Cavalier.

Model: 2004 Saturn ION Redline
Price: $23000
Time: 2004
Regrets: Relatively poor gas mileage at highway speeds. But I'm spoiled, my Cavalier got 35mpg or more, my Ion only gets 28 or 29...
 
Originally posted by: Ilmater
Yes, I'll never buy another American car as long as I live.

Why? I've never had a problem with any GM car that I have owned. Can't speak for Ford or Chrysler though.
 
Model: 1997 Olds Regency.
Price: $6000
Time: Feb 2002. 110k miles. (Now 135k)
Regrets: None really but it wasn't my first choice. This was the only dealer who would give me a loan. Shit happens when you've just moved from Europe. Only major repair was a broken intake manifold in Sept 2002.
Would you recommend to others: Yes. Very reliable and comfortable. Awesome factory sound system. 29mph on highway. If you don't mind the old-geezer look. Can be had for cheap now.
 
Model: 2003 Chevy Malibu
Price: $10000 after financing
Bought: Dec 2003

Don't regret it one bit. We got the car at 12,000 miles and currently stand at 45,000. It was our first purchase of a car and it was one of those where it just felt right. We have had zero problems since we got. It will all be payed for come next year🙂 I highly recommend "the bu"
 
2005 Rav4 $21K OTD
in 2005 (had 50mi on it)

Will be making $500 payments for the next 2 years. Love it so far. But, not a lot of back seat space. Plenty of headroom etc. (and I'm tall 6'3"). Decent mileage (25 city, 30 highway)

Hopefully I won't be making a post on AT about how the car sucks in a year or somewhat.

I DO recommend
 
03 accord, auto i4 LX, paid 20K OTD new, basically invoice (18K) before TTL.

pros:
Very good, well rounded car. Chassis is solid, when i first drove this car coming from a 2000 corolla, it felt like the body was milled from a solid steel block. Interior looks good and solidly built, I notice on my friend's G35 with same mileage/year his interior has more loose parts/fittings. Highly rated 5 star crash safety.

Engine is new generation K series I4, on a displacement basis, the new engines are superior to older generation I4s. Torque is better, power band fatter and wider. Automatic is 5 speed, gives better acceleration and gas mileage than older 4 speeds, cruises 90 mph at 3000 rpm flat. Took the car to the dragstrip, ran 16.0@87 corrected, with no traction on stock junk gas saving tires, wheel hopping all the way through first gear. Nothing incredible, but good for basically stock auto i4. Ran door to door with 300 HP Titan at the same drag strip.

Uses expensive/high performance double wishbone suspension on all four wheels. Swapped a $50 rear sway bar from 04 TL into the car and the mid to high speed handling is very good and balanced despite junk tires. Run side by side with E46 325i on empty/winding freeways right up until you smack the speed limiter at ~130 mph. While cornering flat out on tighter interchanges/exits, it corners hard enough to make myself kind of sick.

Good brakes, ABS standard, strong initial bite. If traffic piles up in front of me, I worry more that if I brake too hard, the guy behind me will rearend me before I run out of stopping distance.

Gas mileage is good despite lead foot, ~25 mpg. Other owners/easier drivers report atleast EPA mileage, which is 24/34. Maintenance is easy, car is maintenance free for 100K miles besides filters/fluids. Uses timing chain, no set replacement interval. Distributor less ignition, no dizzy/rotor to replace. Iridium spark plugs last 100K+ miles. Oil change is easy, filter easily accessible from top. Air filter easy to change, tranny fluid easy to change, brake pads easy to change. Needs nothing else really. Insurance cheap, $400 every half year for full coverage. Costs almost nothing to buy, costs almost nothing to keep.

Resale value is good, car is still worth 14K despite 2 years and 50K miles of use. Great in case you need to sell or car is totalled out for insurance.


cons:
Car has minor first model year bugs, slight window rattle and uneven pad material deposition on rotors causing vibration while braking. Rotor problem can be fixed with new brake pads and resurfaced rotors. Honda America wouldn't resolve my rotor problem which pissed me off, but later they sent me a $100 gift card.

Car could be more aggressively tuned from factory. Exhaust manifold is convoluted restrictive junk, stock cams are junk, stock tires are junk, stock sway bars worthless. I think honda has a potential untapped market selling I4 and V6 moderately stepped up performance variants of accords, since it can be built using existing parts. But at the same time, I've seen some owners complain about the ride being too stiff already stock. Can't have it all.

Some people complain the car is too common, but IMO this is a strength. Parts are cheap and easy to find because it is common. Keeps insurance down also.

A little bit annoying is that Honda keeps adding features and improvements to new models, side airbags later became standard, revised engine in '06 and they added enough features to the DX that it's basically an LX now for $2000 less, ~16K invoice now. Bad for me, good for new car buyers.


recommend:
Absolutely for a vehicle of this class. Accord is significantly revised for 06 and does away with the ugly ass people bitch about, adds more power/features and longer warranty.


regrets:
somewhat want a more hardcore car. Coworkers/friends all have some sort of high performance cars 350Zs/G35s, WRXs/Evos, V8 BMWs. But at the same time I don't want to pay for those. 😛
 
Originally posted by: OS
03 accord, auto i4 LX, paid 20K OTD new, basically invoice (18K) before TTL.

pros:
Very good, well rounded car. Chassis is solid, when i first drove this car coming from a 2000 corolla, it felt like the body was milled from a solid steel block. Interior looks good and solidly built, I notice on my friend's G35 with same mileage/year his interior has more loose parts/fittings. Highly rated 5 star crash safety.

Engine is new generation K series I4, on a displacement basis, the new engines are superior to older generation I4s. Torque is better, power band fatter and wider. Automatic is 5 speed, gives better acceleration and gas mileage than older 4 speeds, cruises 90 mph at 3000 rpm flat. Took the car to the dragstrip, ran 16.0@87 corrected, with no traction on stock junk gas saving tires, wheel hopping all the way through first gear. Nothing incredible, but good for basically stock auto i4. Ran door to door with 300 HP Titan at the same drag strip.

Uses expensive/high performance double wishbone suspension on all four wheels. Swapped a $50 rear sway bar from 04 TL into the car and the mid to high speed handling is very good and balanced despite junk tires. Run side by side with E46 325i on empty/winding freeways right up until you smack the speed limiter at ~130 mph. While cornering flat out on tighter interchanges/exits, it corners hard enough to make myself kind of sick.

Good brakes, ABS standard, strong initial bite. If traffic piles up in front of me, I worry more that if I brake too hard, the guy behind me will rearend me before I run out of stopping distance.

Gas mileage is good despite lead foot, ~25 mpg. Other owners/easier drivers report atleast EPA mileage, which is 24/34. Maintenance is easy, car is maintenance free for 100K miles besides filters/fluids. Uses timing chain, no set replacement interval. Distributor less ignition, no dizzy/rotor to replace. Iridium spark plugs last 100K+ miles. Oil change is easy, filter easily accessible from top. Air filter easy to change, tranny fluid easy to change, brake pads easy to change. Needs nothing else really. Insurance cheap, $400 every half year for full coverage. Costs almost nothing to buy, costs almost nothing to keep.

Resale value is good, car is still worth 14K despite 2 years and 50K miles of use. Great in case you need to sell or car is totalled out for insurance.


cons:
Car has minor first model year bugs, slight window rattle and uneven pad material deposition on rotors causing vibration while braking. Rotor problem can be fixed with new brake pads and resurfaced rotors. Honda America wouldn't resolve my rotor problem which pissed me off, but later they sent me a $100 gift card.

Car could be more aggressively tuned from factory. Exhaust manifold is convoluted restrictive junk, stock cams are junk, stock tires are junk, stock sway bars worthless. I think honda has a potential untapped market selling I4 and V6 moderately stepped up performance variants of accords, since it can be built using existing parts. But at the same time, I've seen some owners complain about the ride being too stiff already stock. Can't have it all.

Some people complain the car is too common, but IMO this is a strength. Parts are cheap and easy to find because it is common. Keeps insurance down also.

A little bit annoying is that Honda keeps adding features and improvements to new models, side airbags later became standard, revised engine in '06 and they added enough features to the DX that it's basically an LX now for $2000 less, ~16K invoice now. Bad for me, good for new car buyers.


recommend:
Absolutely for a vehicle of this class. Accord is significantly revised for 06 and does away with the ugly ass people bitch about, adds more power/features and longer warranty.


regrets:
somewhat want a more hardcore car. Coworkers/friends all have some sort of high performance cars 350Zs/G35s, WRXs/Evos, V8 BMWs. But at the same time I don't want to pay for those. 😛

why the hell would you take your vanilla v4 accord to the dragstrip? what a waste of time.
 
Model: 1992 Ford Mustang GT
Price : $11,000
Time: 1993
Regrets: None at all. It's been flat out the most reliable car I've ever had, and with all the mods I've done to it, it still brings a smile to my face everytime I drive it. The car is 13 years old and has had several mods done to it over the years, but I still can get ~25mpg on the highway...but I need premium now due to the new heads.

In fact, if you look up the 1992 Mustang GT in the Consumer Reports used car buyers guide, it's rated excellent in all but electrical.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Insane3D/IMG_0004s.jpg

It's pushing just over 300RWHP now, so even today I don't meet too many things on the road I can't beat with my 13 year old Ford. 😉
 
Originally posted by: dethman
Originally posted by: OS
03 accord, auto i4 LX, paid 20K OTD new, basically invoice (18K) before TTL.

pros:
Very good, well rounded car. Chassis is solid, when i first drove this car coming from a 2000 corolla, it felt like the body was milled from a solid steel block. Interior looks good and solidly built, I notice on my friend's G35 with same mileage/year his interior has more loose parts/fittings. Highly rated 5 star crash safety.

Engine is new generation K series I4, on a displacement basis, the new engines are superior to older generation I4s. Torque is better, power band fatter and wider. Automatic is 5 speed, gives better acceleration and gas mileage than older 4 speeds, cruises 90 mph at 3000 rpm flat. Took the car to the dragstrip, ran 16.0@87 corrected, with no traction on stock junk gas saving tires, wheel hopping all the way through first gear. Nothing incredible, but good for basically stock auto i4. Ran door to door with 300 HP Titan at the same drag strip.

Uses expensive/high performance double wishbone suspension on all four wheels. Swapped a $50 rear sway bar from 04 TL into the car and the mid to high speed handling is very good and balanced despite junk tires. Run side by side with E46 325i on empty/winding freeways right up until you smack the speed limiter at ~130 mph. While cornering flat out on tighter interchanges/exits, it corners hard enough to make myself kind of sick.

Good brakes, ABS standard, strong initial bite. If traffic piles up in front of me, I worry more that if I brake too hard, the guy behind me will rearend me before I run out of stopping distance.

Gas mileage is good despite lead foot, ~25 mpg. Other owners/easier drivers report atleast EPA mileage, which is 24/34. Maintenance is easy, car is maintenance free for 100K miles besides filters/fluids. Uses timing chain, no set replacement interval. Distributor less ignition, no dizzy/rotor to replace. Iridium spark plugs last 100K+ miles. Oil change is easy, filter easily accessible from top. Air filter easy to change, tranny fluid easy to change, brake pads easy to change. Needs nothing else really. Insurance cheap, $400 every half year for full coverage. Costs almost nothing to buy, costs almost nothing to keep.

Resale value is good, car is still worth 14K despite 2 years and 50K miles of use. Great in case you need to sell or car is totalled out for insurance.


cons:
Car has minor first model year bugs, slight window rattle and uneven pad material deposition on rotors causing vibration while braking. Rotor problem can be fixed with new brake pads and resurfaced rotors. Honda America wouldn't resolve my rotor problem which pissed me off, but later they sent me a $100 gift card.

Car could be more aggressively tuned from factory. Exhaust manifold is convoluted restrictive junk, stock cams are junk, stock tires are junk, stock sway bars worthless. I think honda has a potential untapped market selling I4 and V6 moderately stepped up performance variants of accords, since it can be built using existing parts. But at the same time, I've seen some owners complain about the ride being too stiff already stock. Can't have it all.

Some people complain the car is too common, but IMO this is a strength. Parts are cheap and easy to find because it is common. Keeps insurance down also.

A little bit annoying is that Honda keeps adding features and improvements to new models, side airbags later became standard, revised engine in '06 and they added enough features to the DX that it's basically an LX now for $2000 less, ~16K invoice now. Bad for me, good for new car buyers.


recommend:
Absolutely for a vehicle of this class. Accord is significantly revised for 06 and does away with the ugly ass people bitch about, adds more power/features and longer warranty.


regrets:
somewhat want a more hardcore car. Coworkers/friends all have some sort of high performance cars 350Zs/G35s, WRXs/Evos, V8 BMWs. But at the same time I don't want to pay for those. 😛

why the hell would you take your vanilla v4 accord to the dragstrip? what a waste of time.

about as much a waste as you reading the whole thing. 😀

 
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