- Sep 15, 2000
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Critic Finds a Strip Club That Really Does Sizzle
Steak and a naked lady ? it's a truly tasty experience.
So finds Frank Bruni, perhaps the luckiest dining critic on the planet, in his latest review for The New York Times.
It was a tough assignment: Rate the food at Robert's Steakhouse, the in-house dining room for the Penthouse Executive Club in Midtown Manhattan, where patrons sup on topnotch steaks while getting $20 massages from the topless "entertainment."
Bruni found the food isn't half bad, though it does require some bending of the normal rules of etiquette.
Take dessert for example: "It?s called a buttery nipple, and it involves one of the women straddling your lap, tilting your head back, pouring a combination of Baileys Irish Cream and butterscotch schnapps down your throat, and squirting Reddi-wip into your mouth," he wrote in his Wednesday review.
Like the massage, it costs $20.
But the critic ? whose no-star rating of another dining establishment led to a prominent New York restaurateur taking out a full-page attack ad against Bruni ? found the overall atmosphere titillating. He gave Robert's one star.
"No matter what your appetite for the saucy spectacle accessorizing these steaks," he wrote, "you?ll be turned on by the quality of the plated meat."
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