Digidoc V Fan power Unit is beeping and wont power fans

[DPOverLord]

So I have had this case / DigiDoc V since 2001. I turned on my case today and the unit(powers my 10 case fans) started beeping and the fans powered on then off.

So far I am trying to figure out whats wrong? Anyone who can give some advice as to the proper steps? I am not sure if it hit the fan since when disconnect then reconnect the power cable, the fans all turn on for 2 seconds; then stop.

Would love some help. If the unit did hit the bed, whats the best way or more modern method to connect all of my case fans?

Thanks,

EDIT: Ironically after unplugging the power cable and plugging it back in after 8 hours the controller works again. Any ideas why this happened? Also, is there a better way to set this up? I do not know how to make the most out of this unit with the Voltage settings. I just have them as "Force on"

EDIT 2: Turned computer back on and failure, the unit is beeping again and starting then shutting off.

 

[dma0991]

I think its probably time to get it replaced. I mean its been running for five years, time to give it a rest. You can still use a bay fan speed controller. More recent ones would be from Lamptron and Aerocool. Aerocool's pretty decent if you want fancy touchscreen or Lamptron if you'd prefer something that is more robust.

 

[DPOverLord]

I like digodoc but at the end of the day I always ran all the fans at full speed.

Ideally if I buy a new one, I'd like to have maybe a bit control and an easier way to turn some on or off. Right now the unit Controls 9 fans

2 front
2 on side
1 120mm on top
4 back.

My move controls the rest off the top of my head.

Also my side fans have issues due to the wiring. If I get a new unit I'd like to be able to get a cable to re-extend those wires. Any idea what cable I would need?

What recs do you have?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I could be mistaken, but I thought the DigiDoc controller was capable of thermal control of fans. It had been among some few I looked at about 5 years ago, seeking options for that purpose. Maybe it doesn't allow for thermal control, but it was a "well-respected" product.

Quoting again from Wanda Sikes about an old man attempting rejuvenation with massive doses of Viagra, "You had a good run with that 'Thing' for many years. Why don't you let it go and get on with the short remainder of your life?"

You might want to look at the $70 Aquaero "internal" (circuit-board) product -- which can be had from FrozenCPU and SidewinderComputers.

 

[DPOverLord]

Yeah, but I wonder if it is really dead since the fans start then stop and the warning beep goes on.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Yeah, but I wonder if it is really dead since the fans start then stop and the warning beep goes on.

I wouldn't be able to say whether you have a "bad fan" causing this (it wouldn't seem such is a likely case, but maybe possible) . . . or some component on the DigiDOC went south.

I spoke in some other thread about a circuit-board thermal fan controller by Sunbeam -- Ah! -- I found an old 2005 review for it:

http://bigbruin.com/reviews05/review.php?item=sunbeamtheta&file=1

You can see the little capacitors on the right end of the circuit-board. Those that I bought were lacking the components which probably enabled the nice review. The fans would start spinning as fast as they could. I couldn't be sure of anything else, and the damn things were worthless.

I have a lot of components I still use, for instance -- $250 Omni-View 4-port KVM switches that are about 17 years old. If one of them began failing, acting strangely or showing degraded reliability, I'd replace it with cheaper alternative with DVI and USB kybd/mouse ports in a heartbeat.

This actually feels naïve for me to say, but you might try unplugging each individual fan and see if it works with the remainder. If that's not the case, well . . . there are not better options out there. I think we mentioned the Aquaero controllers. . . .

 

[DPOverLord]

yeah for sure, will actually try unplugging each one. If you can recommend a specific controllor that is like / better than the digidoc V I will buy that.

I never used the temperature stuff, I just keep all the fans on 24x7. It would be nice to turn them on and off when I want

EDIT: Ironically after unplugging the power cable and plugging it back in after 8 hours the controller works again. Any ideas why this happened? Also, is there a better way to set this up? I do not know how to make the most out of this unit with the Voltage settings. I just have them as "Force on"

 

[BonzaiDuck]

yeah for sure, will actually try unplugging each one. If you can recommend a specific controllor that is like / better than the digidoc V I will buy that.

I never used the temperature stuff, I just keep all the fans on 24x7. It would be nice to turn them on and off when I want

EDIT: Ironically after unplugging the power cable and plugging it back in after 8 hours the controller works again. Any ideas why this happened? Also, is there a better way to set this up? I do not know how to make the most out of this unit with the Voltage settings. I just have them as "Force on"

DPOverLord! Your guess is as good as mine per the Digi-Doc! My own frustrating adventure with off-the-mobo-controllers is well chronicled here or in other threads -- particularly that "Theta-101"boondoggle.

I'm only guessing you had some sort of loose connection. I'm hoping there is still some web-site for the DigiDoc that offers a manual or guide in PDF format.

I had one friend who didn't care about thermal control, so he bought front-panel controllers, arguing that "when he played a game, he'd just reach down and twist the knobs" on it. But with mobo features of thermal fan control going back to before 2005, I don't want any knobs, pushbuttons, etc. I want thermal control -- and hopefully -- through software -- ability to stretch curves in a 2D graph to "change the fan profile."

I see that I have that with my (2.5 year old) ASUS P8Z68 V-Pro mobo. But the thermal control was set in the BIOS anyway.

For extending thermal control beyond the mobo, the devices surviving the marketplace and offering that capability would communicate with the computer via internal USB -- probably having their own on-board microprocessor, like the Aquaero units. With the latter, you pay a lot of bucks for the 5.25" bay front-panel with "bling." The internal circuit-board model is only about $70.

Some people here have noted they have low-end motherboards with very little thermal control, as does my Mom's computer here.

My view: Given the options for cases, CPU TDP's, cool-running "80+" PSUs, 200mm fans, etc. -- I think I could build a system with an i7-4960X hex-core 130W-TDP, a Rampage "Black" motherboard, etc. with no more than five fans in the case and air-cooling. With such a mobo, I shouldn't need an auxiliary controller. I don't even think I'd need it with eight fans in the case -- which the RAMPAGE BLack will theoretically handle.

Even so, for that hardware, I would probably spring for water-cooling.

Of course, with mobo and auxiliary thermal fan control, you could deploy all the fans you'd want as opposed to "need," because you could lower them all to just above their start-up speeds, or maybe turn off the ones you don't want.

Here's links for that less-expensive Aquaero 5 unit:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqlt4wdiandc.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ontroller_Liquid_System_Controller_53095.html

So -- OK -- "more" than $70, but not much. I've been acquainted with the proprietor at Sidewinder for some time -- always willing to help. I've bought parts from both resellers. I can't PERSONALLY vouch for the Aquaero, but they've been selling it for a few years. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't have my "Sunbeam Theta" rip-off experience.

Here's the link to the PDF manual and spec sheet:

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/images-ac/aquaero_5_eng.pdf

I wanted to check to see if you could control a 0.90A Delta 120x38mm Tri-Blade with it. That -- with as much as 0.75A to spare. I'm guessing you could even control this:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12ff.html

But the more powerful model exceeds the 1.65A maximum. Yet, 150 CFM (despite the noise) at only 1.00A might offer interesting . . . possibilities. Trick is -- find out how noisy it is at 2,000 or 1,500 rpm. Some of those Deltas are pretty darn quiet running at half speed. . .

 

[DPOverLord]

Thanks so much bro,

Ironically I turned on the case again today and guess what. Unit is not working. At this point I am going to buy a new one. I think I am going to go more high end. THe only main issue is that I do not want to put any of the thermal connectors in. So what I need is as you said,

A way to make a curve so that when they temp goes up the fans speed up ( a la games)

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Thanks so much bro,

Ironically I turned on the case again today and guess what. Unit is not working. At this point I am going to buy a new one. I think I am going to go more high end. THe only main issue is that I do not want to put any of the thermal connectors in. So what I need is as you said,

A way to make a curve so that when they temp goes up the fans speed up ( a la games)

Important thought, which can easily escape even me: If you're going to control the CPU fan, hope that your motherboard is capable of doing it -- and if possible, the case-exhaust behind a CPU air-cooler. You may actually find that these new Aquaero units will read the CPU and mobo sensors, giving you another choice.

Either way, you then have the sensors for thermal control of case fans. HDDs get hot? Stick the sensor on them to control the fan next to them.

If your mobo sucks for this feature, then you (hopefully) have the Aquaero and it reads the CPU sensor. If it doesn't, you can do a lot of things -- some more tedious, others more convenient. YOu can stick a sensor on the side of the cooler-base, but temperature variation at that point may not be sufficient for robust fan control. OR -- you can cut a small channel in the HSF bottom (observing not to cut all the way through and damage heatpipes, or a shallow channel to near-center of the base). Then stick your sensor and some diamond paste etc. in there.

There are new types of digital (versus analog) sensors. I don't know how much benefit they are, but they're supposed to be more accurate. At this point -- speculating -- but it may allow for more robust control with sensor-placement that avoids modding the HSF base.

Let's see. After that, (probably better), you could fold an analog sensor (they're very flat). The wires are hair-thin, so you can run them through the CPU-socket's pins, with the sensor folded up in the CPU interior cavity. That's the way I'd seen it done. IF you do this while assembling the computer the first time, that sensor wire would be almost a permanent fixture if you get it right the first time.

Overall -- you have the ability to do as you describe. If you buy the circuit board unit, I would think you're among the "more serious," because your choice isn't affected by "bling-inspired" "want" corruption. But you can do that -- too . . .

And overall, you need to carefully consider -- even measure -- the value of powering more than six fans. It all depends on how you build it. You could use more fans with water-cooling, and the strategy involves installing both radiators and fans so they take advantage of the classic "case-throughput and CFM" model of airflow. I can even imagine sensors installed carefully inside radiators and cooling loops.

Something like the Aquaero would give you more potential and options than you might ever need. Even so -- you can add some additional ten fan ports and some number of sensors by buying their extension part.

 

[DPOverLord]

ok so I was away on and just got back.

Here are my latest troubleshooting.

The computer will not turn on when the short pin connector from my PSU (peripheral port with the large 4 pin power connectors and the small 4 pin conectors) are connected to the Digidoc. When I take out the cord it starts no problem.

I then used the cable I had used previously which is an adaptor cord to extend to more PSU connectors, The computer would boot, however the Digidoc would still only light up for 2 seconds then it would start beeping.

I then started the computer and after 10 minutes for some reason if I connect the power cable it works. Why wont it work on boot up? Also, it does not seem to matter if I have less fans connected or not.

The reason I like this unit is that it powers 9 fans. I never monitored the heat temps, I just kept the fans on at all times. Do you have any recommendations??

Thanks.

@bonzaiduck I dont really care about things looking good I just want the fans to stay on. I like the option of turning them off turning them on, however for me with my system overclocked the way it is I prefer to keep them on most of the time. What can I do to fix this?
Also, what unit would be the most simple and easy enough for me to use?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

ok so I was away on and just got back.

Here are my latest troubleshooting.

The computer will not turn on when the short pin connector from my PSU (peripheral port with the large 4 pin power connectors and the small 4 pin conectors) are connected to the Digidoc. When I take out the cord it starts no problem.

I then used the cable I had used previously which is an adaptor cord to extend to more PSU connectors, The computer would boot, however the Digidoc would still only light up for 2 seconds then it would start beeping.

I then started the computer and after 10 minutes for some reason if I connect the power cable it works. Why wont it work on boot up? Also, it does not seem to matter if I have less fans connected or not.

The reason I like this unit is that it powers 9 fans. I never monitored the heat temps, I just kept the fans on at all times. Do you have any recommendations??

Thanks.

@bonzaiduck I dont really care about things looking good I just want the fans to stay on. I like the option of turning them off turning them on, however for me with my system overclocked the way it is I prefer to keep them on most of the time. What can I do to fix this?
Also, what unit would be the most simple and easy enough for me to use?

Tell me about your power supply. How many 12V rails? What are the amperage limits overall or per rail?

When you built this sucker, did you run the list of components through the online "power supply calculator?" I forgot the name of the site, and I even think they started charging a subscription fee.

You say you're using 9 fans. Do you know the total amperage draw for those fans? It's a lot of fans -- to be sure.

What you describe as connectors from your PSU sounds like your standard 4-pin Molex plugs and possibly the smaller "floppy-drive" plugs?

How many of the fans are PWM-type, and how many are traditional 3-pin?

Let's sort this out before you buy another fan controller.

First, if you have any PWM fans, you could use this to control them from the CPU_FAN plug (if it is a PWM port, but it should be . . . ):

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sw8waypwmsp8.html

They will not take power from the mobo, but from the PSU. They will get their PWM signal from the mobo, and can be tuned to spin up with CPU temperature.

I'm thinking that you're overloading a 12-V rail of your PSU. We need to sort this out, and then define a better strategy of fans and "control."

The Digi-Doc may be a nice device, and I was considering purchase of it myself some years back.

My own strategy was to minimize the number of fans for better-than-average cooling. A controller is extra expense. If you like something, you'll want to stick with it, but everything has its limits. .

Also, without looking back through our thread posts, I assume that you have a fan connected to the CPU_FAN header?

 

[DPOverLord]

Tell me about your power supply. How many 12V rails? What are the amperage limits overall or per rail?

I am using a EVGA G2 1300 watt PSU. The PSU shouldn't be the issue right?

When you built this sucker, did you run the list of components through the online "power supply calculator?" I forgot the name of the site, and I even think they started charging a subscription fee.

Yeah I have more than enough power for this, I had used 3 titans for some of my benchmarks here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1415441/...3-4-way-sli-gk110-scaling/0_100#post_20536893
This had worked no problem

You say you're using 9 fans. Do you know the total amperage draw for those fans? It's a lot of fans -- to be sure.

What you describe as connectors from your PSU sounds like your standard 4-pin Molex plugs and possibly the smaller "floppy-drive" plugs?

How many of the fans are PWM-type, and how many are traditional 3-pin?

IN the photos above all the connectors in the fan have the 4 prong mini "floppy drive plugs"

I have 2 cpu fans on my heatsink and those are connected to the 2 CPU_FAN ports

I'm thinking that you're overloading a 12-V rail of your PSU. We need to sort this out, and then define a better strategy of fans and "control."
Also, without looking back through our thread posts, I assume that you have a fan connected to the CPU_FAN header?

Yeah, its possible that the 12 V is being overloaded, its just hard to believe since it has worked up until now. But it would make sense. For example I just rebooted the computer and the fans worked no problem. IT seems that the problem is intermittent. More often it seems to happen when the computer is shut down for a long period. Almost as if there is a short, or something is being tripped.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I am using a EVGA G2 1300 watt PSU. The PSU shouldn't be the issue right?

Yeah I have more than enough power for this, I had used 3 titans for some of my benchmarks here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1415441/...3-4-way-sli-gk110-scaling/0_100#post_20536893
This had worked no problem


IN the photos above all the connectors in the fan have the 4 prong mini "floppy drive plugs"

I have 2 cpu fans on my heatsink and those are connected to the 2 CPU_FAN ports


Yeah, its possible that the 12 V is being overloaded, its just hard to believe since it has worked up until now. But it would make sense. For example I just rebooted the computer and the fans worked no problem. IT seems that the problem is intermittent. More often it seems to happen when the computer is shut down for a long period. Almost as if there is a short, or something is being tripped.

I'm sorry I made you go through all this presentation. I cannot imagine that a 1,300W PSU would be insufficient, even for three "Titan" GFX cards.

So . . . the CPU fans are run from the mobo, and there are another nine fans connected to the Digi-Doc. Unless there's really something wrong with the PSU, the only thing I can think of is that (a) the PSU rail with the digi-doc and fans is already "loaded up," or that some fan has exceeded the limit on the device.

With three of those top-end graphics cards, one might wonder about saturation of some 12V rail.

Those are the only things I can think of. But if everything was tip-top for a long time, and this is now starting to happen, maybe you DO want to consider another fan controller. I can't say for sure, and I wish I could . . .

 

[DPOverLord]

Yeah right now I have 2 of the titans in, would it be better to move the plug into another outlet on the PSU? Right now I have to Periph ports on the PSU I can move them too. Its also odd that when I utilize the adaptor extender cabel in the above photo it mitigates the problem

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Yeah right now I have 2 of the titans in, would it be better to move the plug into another outlet on the PSU? Right now I have to Periph ports on the PSU I can move them too. Its also odd that when I utilize the adaptor extender cabel in the above photo it mitigates the problem

I definitely agree: you should investigate the distribution of power to the components, and do so before you just dump the controller for a new one.

Do you . . reconfigure stuff on the fly? I'm just wondering if you wandered into this by making some changes. That's a big rig you have there.

Also, looking back at this thread, you say that you got the controller in 2001?(!?)? Isn't it about time for a new one?

Do you have a couple of radiators in that box? Or is this air-cooled? Don't take offense, but if it's an air-cooled rig, you can get great airflow with fewer fans. If water . . . then I guess you need 'em.

There were several recommendations for your further investigation. I mentioned the Aquaero 5 LT. Maybe you want a manual controller, given what you've said. In the first case, you invest time up front to set up the Aquaero or a similar controller; everything is done automatically once you define the fan profiles. In the second case, you can save some bucks, probably find a nice manual controller with brushed aluminum knobs. But either way -- make sure not to overload the channels above their rated wattage limit. I'm sure you know about that, though. You've been playing with the digi-doc for twelve years!

I'll be interested in seeing how this turns out once you've investigated the loose ends we've discussed.

I personally made a mistake with my own troubleshooting recently. I thought I had a hardware problem, but it was a graphics driver. I replaced the RAM needlessly. Underlying that, I probably wanted a 2x8GB set over a 4x4. So now I have RAM I can use to test my next system's parts, without being in a hurry to finish it.

 

[aigomorla]

i am within 80% surity u burnt out that controller running 9 fans on it.

You dont run 9 fans on ANYTHING which doesnt have beefy mosfet sinks like a Sunbeam Rheobuss / Sunbeam Rheobuss Extreme, or has 9 fan ports so you can connect 1 Fan per channel.
http://www.jab-tech.com/fan-speed-control/sunbeam-5-1/4-rheobus-kit-black/

or is a 100% digital mosfet like a lamptron FC5 which costs 3-5x the sunbeam's.


There is no way u can handle more then 1 fans per channel.
Im actually suprised it lasted you 5 yrs with 9 fans....

Those mosfets were not able to handle more then .25amps per channel... which i believe u either pushed at the very edge of its limits or over its limits at 2 fans per channel.

A lamptron / Sunbeam can handle 1.5amps (normal sunbeam) - 2.5amps (FC5 or Sunbeam Extreme)...
and look at the massive sinks the sunbeam has to make this claim vs your digidoc which i know is not a 100% digital mosfet.

100% digital mosfet controllers like the aquero, and lamptron start at 90 dollars.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

i am within 80% surity u burnt out that controller running 9 fans on it.

You dont run 9 fans on ANYTHING which doesnt have beefy mosfet sinks like a Sunbeam Rheobuss / Sunbeam Rheobuss Extreme, or has 9 fan ports so you can connect 1 Fan per channel.
100% digital mosfet controllers like the aquero, and lamptron start at 90 dollars.

+1 and :thumbsup: to that . . .

Since many of these controllers have about four fan-outputs (and I don't have the spec sheet for the old Digi-Doc in front of me), it's important to limit the number of fans even in striving for more CFM, and then choose fans that don't overpower the controller.

I had bought a "T-Balancer big NG" controller some years ago. The seller was cordially up-front about the limitations -- which were mostly a matter of available software to read motherboard sensors. Other people would use a controller like that (or any) and use the analog sensors that came with the kit. I pondered what to do, but put it back in the carton and stored it away.

The software that comes with T-Balancer is updated for the latest Win7 and Win8 -- release-dated to 2013. But to read the motherboard sensors, it requires MBM -- which is "defunct" since 2005. It may or may not work with SpeedFan, and no mention of latter in the online documentation.

On the plus side, there are "mini-NG" components which can be daisy-chained with the "big-NG." Someone would need to see if these are independently "Molex" powered.

I can sympathize with water-cooling adherents who want to use a lot of low-power fans. But it's probably just as important to plan the project from the beginning to at least minimize the number of fans -- and maximize the CFM under the configuration.

My SB-K rig had six fans in it two weeks ago. It has four now. I dropped my LinX load temperatures by 5C. Sometimes, more fans don't help.

Frankly? With some trouble? I think I can reduce the number of fans to three and keep the same cooling achievement. I might not even add to the dBA. I just have to order a $25 fan to replace two, and do more of my play-time art-board ducting.

Back to cars -- I remember when top-end autos started selling with automatic push-button windows and no cranks. I recoiled at the idea: "More things to go wrong!" I said. It apparently never became a problem.

But it's easier to troubleshoot the simplest configuration. If you don't need a fan controller -- avoid using one. If you do -- well, then -- enough said.

ADDENDUM: Yes, indeed, the M-Cubed . . T-Balancer . . . BigNG works with up to two [. . . ] Mini-NG units, and the mini-NG is also Molex-powered.

Today, though, I'd go with the Aquaero 5 LT. The M-Cubed offerings are still sold by some resellers.

Just seems to me you'd be better off for a 3-fan radiator to use the most quiet fans with the highest CFM they could manage, hook them up directly to the PSU. If you had a square radiator mated to a 200mm fan, maybe you'd want a fan like the NZXT (0.70A) or the best of Bit-Fenix. Your controller needs would be more manageable.

 

[DPOverLord]

i am within 80% surity u burnt out that controller running 9 fans on it.

You dont run 9 fans on ANYTHING which doesnt have beefy mosfet sinks like a Sunbeam Rheobuss / Sunbeam Rheobuss Extreme, or has 9 fan ports so you can connect 1 Fan per channel.
http://www.jab-tech.com/fan-speed-control/sunbeam-5-1/4-rheobus-kit-black/

or is a 100% digital mosfet like a lamptron FC5 which costs 3-5x the sunbeam's.


There is no way u can handle more then 1 fans per channel.
Im actually suprised it lasted you 5 yrs with 9 fans....

Those mosfets were not able to handle more then .25amps per channel... which i believe u either pushed at the very edge of its limits or over its limits at 2 fans per channel.

A lamptron / Sunbeam can handle 1.5amps (normal sunbeam) - 2.5amps (FC5 or Sunbeam Extreme)...
and look at the massive sinks the sunbeam has to make this claim vs your digidoc which i know is not a 100% digital mosfet.

100% digital mosfet controllers like the aquero, and lamptron start at 90 dollars.

Not sure you saw the photo... all 9 fans are connected to one port. They are not sharing or crossed to anything.

In other weird news, I was on the phone with EVGA and they said there is a recall on my PSU and potentially that the PSU could be to blame since the unit works with the adaptor cable but not with the stock cable. They are in the process of sending me a brand new 1300 watt PSU lets see if that works. It would be interesting if I could get a cord that connects to the PSU and just connect the fans directly to it without the unit.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Not sure you saw the photo... all 9 fans are connected to one port. They are not sharing or crossed to anything.

In other weird news, I was on the phone with EVGA and they said there is a recall on my PSU and potentially that the PSU could be to blame since the unit works with the adaptor cable but not with the stock cable. They are in the process of sending me a brand new 1300 watt PSU lets see if that works. It would be interesting if I could get a cord that connects to the PSU and just connect the fans directly to it without the unit.

Ho! The plot thickens! You may get through this without spending a dime!

I could imagine 9 Noctua fans connected to one port: the total amperage might be just over 1.00+A. Like I said -- I'd looked at the Digi-Doc briefly some years ago when it was still being sold, but remember little.

 

[DPOverLord]

yeah the digidoc right now... well I got it in 2001/2 I realized so that makes this piece 12 years old. Needless to say it has gotten it's moneys worth, lets see if this fixes it. I had it running and yesterday it started beeping and I had to unplug it.

At Idle:
Titans = 41C (64% fan speed)
CPU - 60C @ 3.9GHZ (downclocked)

 

[BonzaiDuck]

yeah the digidoc right now... well I got it in 2001/2 I realized so that makes this piece 12 years old. Needless to say it has gotten it's moneys worth, lets see if this fixes it. I had it running and yesterday it started beeping and I had to unplug it.

At Idle:
Titans = 41C (64% fan speed)
CPU - 60C @ 3.9GHZ (downclocked)

That's a long time for a component like that. I expect printers to give out in 10 years. I think I've gotten between 5 and 8 years on monitors -- especially the old-tech "CRT" variety.

I have these four-port KVM switchs -- Belkin OmniView 4-port. I'd bought them back around 1994/1995. They must've been between $180 and $200+ each!! They're still good! But only "good" for the 15-pin VGA connectors. And -- Gee! Used continuously for -- wha-zzat? -- 19 years?!!

What's with the high CPU temperature at idle?? 60C?!!