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Diaries of the Noob Mechanic: Fuzzydunlop's '85 MR2

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FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
Learn TIG and forget everything else. I don't know how anyone can weld any other way with your electrode vaporizing and arc splattering around in random directions without being able to see anything.

It's like the difference between making art by flicking buckets of paint on a wall while blind folded vs drawing with a .05mm mechanical pencil with a microscope.... or chainsaw vs scalpel :awe:

ive also heard that it takes a great amount of skill to use a TIG. Yes it would be nice to know some day, but to learn the basics, flux/mig is way easier (so ive heard)
 

exdeath

Lifer
Jan 29, 2004
13,679
10
81
ive also heard that it takes a great amount of skill to use a TIG. Yes it would be nice to know some day, but to learn the basics, flux/mig is way easier (so ive heard)

Well I prefer assembly language too so I'm a bit backwards from the average person regarding what's harder vs easier :p

There is more precision control and sensetivity to master with TIG but if patience, precision, and control are your thing, it makes everything else look primative (I mean the labor and process itself, as well as the end result). Using the right cup, gas type, flow rate, current, polarity, wire type, etc is the real battle, but that stuff can be looked up in a book for simple metals like steel. Once you strike the arc with the correct setup, building a pool and forming a bead isn't all that difficult. Like I said, it's like stitching with a mechanical pencil, or welding with an eye dropper.

I don't claim to be an expert welder, I just know I've played around on a TIG, and even just laying beads on bits of scrap metal as a total newbie, found it far more intuitive and capable than a moving spitting wire splattering all over the place and creating an "arc" the size of Texas :awe:
 
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JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
I prefer TIG myself, that's what I am good at, but I would not wish TIGing sheet metal body panels on my worst enemy. A good short-arc welder won't spatter at all, lay down a nice clean bead really fast, and not make you curse the day you were born. Getting a TIG torch in there, and the filler, and still see what you're doing when welding those floor pans in would suck royal.
 

dawp

Lifer
Jul 2, 2005
11,347
2,710
136
if you ever gas welded chances are you can tig weld, it is similar in that you have a torch and use a rod. I took a welding course about 30 years ago so I imaging the tech has improved since then.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
tried test welding a piece of original floorboard with the material I plan to replace it with. No go. Frustrated, annoyed, stressed. The original floorboard is super thin - like 22gauge steel. I cant weld it. I just blow right thru it on the lowest setting possible for this machine. The welds that dont blow thru wont hold during a stress test. Must be doing something wrong.. need welding advice.

Sucks cuz the only place in town I know I can talk to somebody about this is closed before I get off work tomorrow... there go my plans for friday thru sunday. BALLS!
 
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FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
HELL YA!
Got off work in time to go buy some Argon/CO2 with .023 wire, hooked it up to do some MIG welding and boooya!
First off, flux core welding SUCKS.
Second, I can weld anything now. Im feeling pretty confident that Ill get these floorpans in without a problem now. And maybe even before the weekend is done.
And for your viewing pleasure, some photo
IMAG0332.jpg

^The weld (kinda sloppy I know)
IMAG0334.jpg

^The underside penetration (underside penetration is good only in welding)
IMAG0335.jpg

^piece one of five to be welded in on the passenger floor. My weld isnt straight because my cut was horrible.
IMAG0336.jpg
\
^what I plan to have after complete.

All this and my brother is headed towards a Harbor Freight next week, and he's picking up a Soda Blaster for me. - easy paint stripping here we come!
/blog
 

exdeath

Lifer
Jan 29, 2004
13,679
10
81
Damn... you said you wanted to lean to *work* on a car, like mechanical and stuff. Not build a damn car from scratch! :awe:
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
Damn... you said you wanted to lean to *work* on a car, like mechanical and stuff. Not build a damn car from scratch! :awe:

that'l come... for now, its just getting this thing to pass an inspection.
and eventually, i think it would be awesome to build a car from scratch.
 

Aikouka

Lifer
Nov 27, 2001
30,383
912
126
that'l come... for now, its just getting this thing to pass an inspection.
and eventually, i think it would be awesome to build a car from scratch.

Ever since I was a kid, I've always wanted to build a go-kart. I actually used to draw up crude "schematics" (if you could call them that) to solidify the design. Given I'm older, I can be a bit more grand, but I think I'd still try the go-kart. Although, maybe slightly more interesting... such as electric-powered.

I have to say... you've done some rather involved work though! Are you just planning on putting the car back together, or do you want to modify it? You can't forget the huge muffler! :cool:

:sneaky:
 

mrblotto

Golden Member
Jul 7, 2007
1,639
117
106
Just came in to say I'm enjoying this (and JLEE's) thread! keep up the good work!
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
uhhh, my back, knees and neck are sore today. I am almost finished putting in the bedpans on the passenger side, only one more piece to go. Kneeling bent over the car cutting/grinding/welding all afternoon: I'm feelin old today.

I first took and attached the underside support beam (which can be seen at the top of the first photo. The middle of it is recessed so I filled it with some polyuerythane gunk I found. Someone suggested I use spray foam insulation, but I thought that was probably a bad idea because it is porous and could hold water.

After I had the support beam in place I drilled holes every 1 to 2 inches on the replacement floorpan where I wanted to put spot welds. Then I put it into place on the floor and attached it with self sinking screws every 2-3 inches. After filling in the predrilled spot welds I aslo went all the way around the edge with a bead. I then removed the screws and spot welded those holes in. It was a bigger job than I first expected it to be... veeeery time consuming, but Im betting its stronger than the stock factory pans now.

And as is the usual, the welds look like crap in the photos.
IMAG0338.jpg


Also saved and reattached this factory support beam. Not sure that it reall does anything because the underside support is pretty strong as it is. oh well, this way the carpet will still fit properly when I reinstall it.
IMAG0339.jpg


I also crawled under the car and put a few tacks along the bottom .
This afternoon if I have time and feel up to it I may try and get the front pan in place - then this side is DONE! I have a feeling that the driver side is going to be more difficult though.
 
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JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
Looks good! :thumbsup:

Get knee pads for welding, most welding supply stores sell them. If it stops you from kneeling on some slag or spatter once they'll be worth it. They help a lot with the feeling old syndrome.
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
50,419
8
81
I continue to be in awe. You sir, are a true inspiration.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
did a couple hours of work and got the front pan in. I started to tack the bottom on but I ran out of gas for the welder. I will pick some up tomorrow and continue - probably get started on the driver side. It was much easier to put in the front because I felt like I knew what I was doing (sorta).
IMAG0349.jpg

IMAG0347.jpg
 
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thomsbrain

Lifer
Dec 4, 2001
18,148
1
0
So what are your long term plans for the car? Just restoring? Track toy?

The shop that tuned my S2000 has been working on a completely gonzo MR2 that is twin-charged (super and turbocharged), and running Honda ECU and sensors.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
So what are your long term plans for the car? Just restoring? Track toy?

The shop that tuned my S2000 has been working on a completely gonzo MR2 that is twin-charged (super and turbocharged), and running Honda ECU and sensors.

It wont be a track car, I dont know of any tracks around here that I could take it to. It will be a street car... but a street car that can take a corner at 50mph hopefully, someday. I just want to take this piece of shit car and create something that people will say, "nice car bro"

At this stage Im still researching alot of things, but Koni Yellows are on my list, with an Eibach Pro Spring Kit. New brake setup is a must. Alot of body work, a paint job, etc.

I also need to do some work on the engine, which may be the winter project. Has an oil leak somewhere - needs to have a compression test. Dont have a clue what I should do while I tear it all apart, because I honestly have no clue when it comes to engines.
 
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jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
Koni Yellow + Eibach Pro-Kit is what I have in my '91T - I absolutely love them.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
Took the day away from the office today. Patched a few more rust spots on the floor board, Etch Primed it, then put Seam Sealer on top and underneath.

IMAG0356.jpg


Also started on the driver side
IMAG0359.jpg

IMAG0362.jpg

Its tough getting this piece to fit properly because the original floorboard is an odd shape. Lots of hammering and bending. But i think Im getting there.

Oh, and now I see why they suggest I wear leather while welding. I bit of UV burn on my arm above the glove line.
IMAG0370-1.jpg
 
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JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
Oh, and now I see why they suggest I wear leather while welding. I bit of UV burn on my arm above the glove line.

There's that, which can feel 10x worse than a sun burn, and slag/spatter burns. I've got a nice scar on my wrist from some titanium MIG spatter that melted through part of my glove that wasn't leather. Personally I would always wear leather gloves for MIG welding, but leather welding jackets are heavy, hot, and don't breathe. Don't get one unless you really need a lot of protection (like if you're doing overhead stick welding) but definitely get a woven welding jacket.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
There's that, which can feel 10x worse than a sun burn, and slag/spatter burns. I've got a nice scar on my wrist from some titanium MIG spatter that melted through part of my glove that wasn't leather. Personally I would always wear leather gloves for MIG welding, but leather welding jackets are heavy, hot, and don't breathe. Don't get one unless you really need a lot of protection (like if you're doing overhead stick welding) but definitely get a woven welding jacket.

this is really sore and tender today. I have a light leather work jacket I can wear from now on so that I dont get this.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
Lately it seems like I’m putting a lot of hours in with little results - Hence the lack of update.
I finally got the floor pans on both sides all fixed up last week. Also fixed the left side A-pillar / hood hinge section that was rusty (opposite side of what I did in post #66 - it was much easier to do it this time knowing exactly what to do!)
This week I started working on disassembling the rear brakes and suspension since I am expecting a rather large order from twosrus . com next week.
In the meantime I am also doing a few random repairs and fixes on the car.
Took out the distribution cap and am expecting a reseal kit in next week.
Buyanoring.jpg


Took out the old bulky air filter assembly and fabricated my own piece to attach a new cone to the AFM. (Apparently a Nissan 240/280 would have this exact piece I need, but I called a few guys parting out 240/280's and they all wanted an arm and leg for this part, so I said, "screw it, Im pretty sure I can make one." So I did - and not to badly if I may say so myself!)
IMAG0405.jpg

IMAG0407.jpg


Here is a pic of how rusted over the rear left brake assembly was
IMAG0387.jpg


The back of the rotor was worn pretty badly because the piston was pushing on it - I am replacing both back callipers. I also have Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, rotors, pads and new bushings coming in sometime here.
IMAG0390.jpg


Tomorrow I’m dropping the oil pan and resealing it with factory recommended Permatex. Also am going to replace all the lines to teh oil cooler with stainless braided lines and new washers from Toyota.

Yesterday I attempted to remove the old oil filter -shiiiiiiit! Im pretty sure Hercules was the idiot who put this thing on.
IMAG0404.jpg

I first tried using a belt wrench thinger majing to get it off, didn’t budge but twisted the housing. I then jammed a screwdriver straight thru and tried turning it, but it just tore the thing - didn’t budge. Doing this caused the filter to rip off its base, which was a good thing because I was then able to get a screwdriver into a hole just inside the lip and hammer on it (with a hammer) and it eventually started to twist off. Holy mother of… I was cursing pretty hard at this thing and danced a jig once it was off.

As for the reason I had to quit working today - a picture speaks a thousand words
IMAG0408.jpg


Sorry about the shit quality photos. I dont own a camera so my phone is all I got. and today i accidently smeared some oil over the lens... thats why they look washed out.
 
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