Diaries of the Noob Mechanic: Fuzzydunlop's '85 MR2

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
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As a few of you know, I am the green mechanic who has been searching for a project. Well I found it. Here it is, a 1986 Toyota MR2 manual.
Link to old thread: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2153449
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On first glance I think, “hey its really not in that bad of shape”. I got a little bit closer and noticed the horrible home paint job. That will definitely be something that will need to be taken care of at some point. Under the hood seems to be all decent, car started up with a throaty rumble, no obvious ticks, clicks, clanks, clunks, to pick out. They showed me an inspection sheet from November: it passed and was deemed road worthy.
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It was parked over snow, this made it easier to see that there are no leaks. There are small patches of rust, but honestly, this is to be expected on a 26 year old car in this part of the world. In fact, there aren’t too many 26 year old cars around this part of the country at all.
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(^^ zip ties :hmmm; )
The interior is quite ratty, but it looks like things that can easily be fixed or replaced. Headlights work, all electronics, gauges still work, stereo is ok (but I could care less about that for now). It also had been smoked in, I’m hoping that after a thorough cleaning and carpet change that that will mostly go away.
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I went for a little 15 minute test drive with the owner, a middle aged Chinese man. He’s actually quite nice and articulate and he tells me that he bought this car 15 years ago, but needs to sell it because his wife cannot drive a stick and she needs a delivery car for her new business, and this one is too small, so on so forth. The car actually drove quite solidly. Clutch was firm and smooth, shifting gears was clean with no sticking or stiffness, the brakes didn’t squeak and gave solid pressure. He tells me he just had new brake pads put on and there are brand new tires on it as well. All in all, I really enjoyed the first drive and was impressed with how well it rode. It was a nicer drive than my dads 1999 grand am - and its 13 years older!

On the way back to their shop Mr. Bang (I know, awesome name huh?) tells me that there was actually a guy in yesterday that looked at the car, took it too a mechanic to have it inspected, liked it so much that he made a down payment of $500 but he wasn’t able to pick it up for another two weeks because he lived out of town and wouldn’t pay in full until then. Mr. Bang tells me if I like the car he will let me take it now. Awesome.

Back at the shop I run to my car, take out the cash, run back in and here Mrs. Bang is on the phone with this other guy from out of town telling him that they sold the car! Haha, and I could hear he was piiiiissed. After she hung up with him she says, “well, he no want to pay all, and you here to pay all, we sell car to you now. Less problem.” She obviously wears the pants in this household. I put the money down, he signed it over, and I went on my merry way, laughing. On the way home I’m thinking to myself, “wow, that was a bit of a douche move by the Bangs!”
Oh well. You snooze you lose.
Winner.
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Tomorrow I’ll go register and insure, and get the car to my garage. ( its currently locked and parked under a light on a busy street - should be ok overnight).

Question now is… where do I start.
Oh I know. I hear you guys talking about some manual that tells me everything I need to know with step by step processes about how to fix things on the car…. What is it called and where can I get one?

/blog

Cliffs:
1) Bought an MR2 to fix up
2) turns out I practically stole it out of the hands of another dude who had already put a down payment on it.
3) Win.
 
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jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
*CHEER*

Welcome to the club - now go to MR2OC.com and join up! ;)

Here's a link to the Big Green Book - http://manual.teq.org/ - they don't have '86, but '88 should work for most things. Poke around MR2OC a bit and you should be able to find more info.
 
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RocksteadyDotNet

Diamond Member
Jul 29, 2008
3,152
1
0
Nice choice.

Now dump a blown 1MZ is that bad boy. There's a how-to guide around somewhere, but it's pretty hardcore.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
*CHEER*

Welcome to the club - now go to MR2OC.com and join up! ;)

Here's a link to the Big Green Book - http://manual.teq.org/ - they don't have '86, but '88 should work for most things. Poke around MR2OC a bit and you should be able to find more info.

Booya! thanks for the links.

Nice choice.

Now dump a blown 1MZ is that bad boy. There's a how-to guide around somewhere, but it's pretty hardcore.

that may be a project for the future... right now I really need to just learn 'car'. Im a complete noob, no clue, and will be relying on the wealth of internet information at my finger tips. Youtube, wikipedia, forums, im set.
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
Speaking of tools (just saw the posts in your other thread), most of what you'll need is 10/12/15/17mm. I'd highly recommend a 1/2" drive breaker bar - if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you should be able to score a set of 1/2" drive impact sockets for cheep. They'll work as regular sockets and can be used with an impact gun when you get one down the road. ;)

I'd highly recommend waiting for a 50%-off sale on ratcheting wrenches (I picked up a couple sets of Gearwrenches at Sears at half off, I think). They'll save you a lot of time/frustration. To save money, (assuming you have regular wrenches already), you could look for a set of ratcheting wrenches that are double-box-end (i.e. ratcheting functions on both ends of the wrench, rather than open-ended on one side) since you can always use a regular wrench if you need an open-end. I have a set of double box end ratcheting wrenches, offset double box end ratcheting wrenches, and a set of stubby ratching wrenches (open on one side) since I didn't already have any stubby wrenches.

It looks like what you bought will cover most things - just set aside a few bucks every now and again for the odd tool that you need. Also keep in mind it's typically much cheaper to buy tools in sets vs buying one of something, but don't spend too much if you won't be needing the rest of a set (i.e. I have a 3/4" breaker bar and one 3/4" socket...that fits my MR2's axle nut). After breaking two 1/2" drive breaker bars, I had to step up..but I don't need it for anything else, so there's not much point in buying a whole set.
 

Harrod

Golden Member
Apr 3, 2010
1,900
21
81
Nice, my uncle used to have one that was silver with the black spoiler and side vent, it was a pretty cool looking car.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
Speaking of tools (just saw the posts in your other thread), most of what you'll need is 10/12/15/17mm. I'd highly recommend a 1/2" drive breaker bar - if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you should be able to score a set of 1/2" drive impact sockets for cheep. They'll work as regular sockets and can be used with an impact gun when you get one down the road. ;)

I'd highly recommend waiting for a 50%-off sale on ratcheting wrenches (I picked up a couple sets of Gearwrenches at Sears at half off, I think). They'll save you a lot of time/frustration. To save money, (assuming you have regular wrenches already), you could look for a set of ratcheting wrenches that are double-box-end (i.e. ratcheting functions on both ends of the wrench, rather than open-ended on one side) since you can always use a regular wrench if you need an open-end. I have a set of double box end ratcheting wrenches, offset double box end ratcheting wrenches, and a set of stubby ratching wrenches (open on one side) since I didn't already have any stubby wrenches.

It looks like what you bought will cover most things - just set aside a few bucks every now and again for the odd tool that you need. Also keep in mind it's typically much cheaper to buy tools in sets vs buying one of something, but don't spend too much if you won't be needing the rest of a set (i.e. I have a 3/4" breaker bar and one 3/4" socket...that fits my MR2's axle nut). After breaking two 1/2" drive breaker bars, I had to step up..but I don't need it for anything else, so there's not much point in buying a whole set.

I think I have a cross bar sitting around somewhere that should (hopefully) work wonderfully for getting the lug nuts cracked.
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and if i remember the 230pc socket set I bought has a two or three different sized ratchet wrenches, which will def come in handy.
Im so effing excited to get going on this... probably wont sleep tonight.
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EDIT: oh i see... so the breaker bar is what i need the two foot pipe for.... i was wondering why someone suggested i get one
 
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jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
Lug nuts, yeah - I was referring to the nut that holds the axle into the hub. You shouldn't have to worry about that for a long time, if ever.
 

EightySix Four

Diamond Member
Jul 17, 2004
5,122
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91
Ozone is the fastest way to get the cigarette smell to go away.

<- Dad owns a decontamination company.
 

5150MyU

Senior member
Jan 16, 2011
327
0
0
In general when you get up to that size the cheap sockets work just fine.And they make great seal installers.Worthwhile investment.-3/4 socket set.
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
In general when you get up to that size the cheap sockets work just fine.And they make great seal installers.Worthwhile investment.-3/4 socket set.

Oh they're certainly not bad to have (can never have too many tools!), but when working with a budget there are some things not really worth the expense. That was the only time (in ~8 years of working on my own vehicles) that I needed a 3/4" drive breaker/socket, and that was only because the 1/2" stuff was breaking. :p

I also don't have a Harbor Freight within driving distance and I needed the breaker bar sooner than later - I think I spent over $50 for the bar alone. :/

But yeah, if they're cheap, scoop em up. The last time (and first, actually) I was at Harbor Freight (hundreds of miles from home), I bought a nice long flexy ratchet because it was 20 bucks and looked spiffy - didn't "need" it at all. I love it now... :D
 
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5150MyU

Senior member
Jan 16, 2011
327
0
0
I kinda meant the sockets-I use them for replacing seals and driving out bearings.
Though I do use them for axle nuts, etc.
 
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5150MyU

Senior member
Jan 16, 2011
327
0
0
To clairify-I have most of the common sockets that fit axel nuts (impact version), but that cheap tiwain set has saved my ass more than once.
Those have installed more seals than I can count.
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
+1 gear wrenches. They are awesome. I have a set of flex-head and a set of fixed head.

The first thing you should do? I'd do all of the easy service stuff you can stand. Engine oil, transmission oil, a brake bleed, power steering fluid (does it have power steering?) and such. Maybe get some undercoating on that rust to stop it, unless you've got something else in mind for that.

Put anti-seize on everything you take apart, trust me. However, don't forget to re-rate any torque specs by 30% if you use anti-seize. Ask JLee why... :whiste:

Any mod plans for the car?
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
I just remembered I have what I believe is a full set of polyurethane suspension bushings for a Mk1 MR2, if you are feeling adventurous... :D

+1 gear wrenches. They are awesome. I have a set of flex-head and a set of fixed head.

The first thing you should do? I'd do all of the easy service stuff you can stand. Engine oil, transmission oil, a brake bleed, power steering fluid (does it have power steering?) and such. Maybe get some undercoating on that rust to stop it, unless you've got something else in mind for that.

Put anti-seize on everything you take apart, trust me. However, don't forget to re-rate any torque specs by 30&#37; if you use anti-seize. Ask JLee why... :whiste:

Any mod plans for the car?

Also, make sure to read the proper torque spec for the bolt you're torquing. Ask JCH13 why... :whiste:

:awe:
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
Any mod plans for the car?
right now im just going to be tearing it down, cleaning it up and rebuilding it. modding will be a future plan. THe car has a lot of cosmetic needs, i may try and work on some of those first.

I just remembered I have what I believe is a full set of polyurethane suspension bushings for a Mk1 MR2, if you are feeling adventurous... :D



Also, make sure to read the proper torque spec for the bolt you're torquing. Ask JCH13 why... :whiste:

:awe:

ok probably a noob question. I know what you mean by torque spec, but I dont understand how I get a torque rating. Do I need some kind of tool to read torque rating... what is it?
 
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jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106
ok probably a noob question. I know what you mean by torque spec, but I dont understand how I get a torque rating. Do I need some kind of tool to read torque rating... what is it?

Torque wrench. These work great and are cheap. If you want to spend a bit more, you can get ones that give an audible 'click' when you've reached the proper torque (rather than watching the dial on the split beam type).
 

Aikouka

Lifer
Nov 27, 2001
30,383
912
126
Put anti-seize on everything you take apart, trust me. However, don't forget to re-rate any torque specs by 30% if you use anti-seize. Ask JLee why... :whiste:

My dad was an anti-seize fiend when I was working on the DSM. I recall one time I was putting a bolt back on, and he comes up, "You put never seize on that?" I just kind of give him a look and start turning the bolt the other way :p.

Hmm what's this about re-rating the torque spec because of anti-seize?
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,518
223
106

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
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Also, make sure to read the proper torque spec for the bolt you're torquing. Ask JCH13 why... :whiste:

:awe:

Turns out the "intake bracket" and "intake flange" have two different torque specs, and one is a LOT higher than the other :$

Hmm what's this about re-rating the torque spec because of anti-seize?

The long and short of it is that a torque spec is calculated to provide a specific clamping force from the bolt. When the bolt is lubed with oil or anti-seize or whatever, less of the applied torque is used to overcome friction in the threads, and more of it goes into increasing the clamping force. To perpetuate my intake manifold example: I torqued the bolts to 30-35lb*ft when it should have been 15-19lb*ft, that's the difference between something like 2,500lbf of preload and 5,200lbf of preload. The 6mm grade 10.9 bolts had a proof load of about 4,000lbf, so the higher torque I applied exceeded their capable strength and caused them to fail.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
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NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,162
638
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Question: If it's a build thread, what are looking to do with the car other than learn how to wrench on it?

Are you going to mod the suspension, add power, restore it?
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,260
12
81
Question: If it's a build thread, what are looking to do with the car other than learn how to wrench on it?

Are you going to mod the suspension, add power, restore it?

I guess for now its going to be a restoration. Didnt know what else to call the thread. And also dont have any plans for the future at this point. Just gonna start wrenching, and wait for inspiration I think. Most likely an engine swap in the future, once I get my bearings around the car.
 
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