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damnit, I put 5w20 into my car

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So you think I can just leave it? Most of the miles will probably be highway miles. That should be easier on it right?
 
Originally posted by: Soccerman06
Originally posted by: Shawn
Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
drain and replace, dont mix weights.

what happens if you mix weights?

Well, have you ever seen a firecracker? Well imagine one going off in the engine because the oil gets into the combustion chamber and seeps the explosion into the crankcase (biga$$ boom). Or, it will just stop working because the oil wears out the gears more quickly. REPLACE DO NOT MIX

Edit: just because you have 2 apples and 1 orange doesnt meen you have 3 apples or 3 oranges


LOts of people mix weights to achieve what they feel is oil nirvana. No harm in mixing, but it is advised by most to stay within brands when mixing weights.

No boom or firecracker effects, that's just misinformation.
 
Originally posted by: Shawn
So you think I can just leave it? Most of the miles will probably be highway miles. That should be easier on it right?

I'm sure it'll be fine. Any wear and tear due to the different weight will likely be negligible.

What brand oil is it?
 
Originally posted by: cjgallen
Originally posted by: Shawn
So you think I can just leave it? Most of the miles will probably be highway miles. That should be easier on it right?

I'm sure it'll be fine. Any wear and tear due to the different weight will likely be negligible.

What brand oil is it?

Castrol Synthetic-blend.
 
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: jerryjg
Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
Originally posted by: jerryjg
5wt- 20 is great oil. Don't F*ck with it. Maybe 10WT 30 is a better choice all around. My Mercury Grand Marquis specifys 5-30 moter oil, or manufacturers warranty may be voided. Does it really make a difference? Hell no. The real concern is getting fresh oil into the crankcase every 5000 miles or so. By then, the oil looks kinda thick and nasty, not to mention concerns for the sludge buildup in the oil filter, which is MY primary concern. Wanna mix oils- thats fine- no problem at all, except for some few synthetic oils which arent compatable with other oils. check the label.


😕 WTF was all of that?

Too thin of oil can cause excess wear on your crank bearings and other major engine components.

you really ARE on crack. You think running oil with a 5% lower viscosity is going to damage a freakin engine? what damages an engine is not keeping a fresh oil/filter in it every 5000 miles or so. 5wt 30 moter oil is perfect as 10wt 30, except for different climates, it might be better to run 10w-30 over the long run-read 1000,000 miles.
There is no difference between 5W and 10W-30 at operating temperature.

the xW number is an arbitrary measure of cold cranking viscosity. It doesen't mean anything, other than how easy it is for your engine to turn over when cold.

Both are 30 weight oils at operating temperature.

Use 5W in the winter and 10W in the summer, or 5W year-around. Or 10W year around if you live somewhere like the SW.

Hell, you could probably run straight 30 weight down there.. lol

BTW, 30 to 20 is a drop of 33%.. not 5%. 😛 But your point still stands.

Even if you used 40 weight where a 20 is specifed, you wouldn't do any significant damage. It could if you used the improper weight over the long term, though.

yea, lot of people run straight conventional 30W down here. with synthetics(like i use) and thier better flow charecteristics, it makes even less difference. I just use whats on sale. Wal-mart has a great year round price on SHELL Rotella synthetc (12.99 for the big jug).Otherwise i have picked up some great clearance specials at wal-mart, and i always stock up when they are on close-out. I got a bunch of the generic stuuf walmart sells(cannot reacll brand name) for 5 dollars for the big container(what do you call that size?) i got about 5 containers so i am good to go for awhile.I think its waaay better to use conventional oil and change oil/filter at reasonable intervals than to use synthetic and leave it in there forever.I do mainly use synthetic oil though, or at least a blend.
 
Originally posted by: RagingBITCH
lol, I like how people said mixing the weights will harm it. 😛

5W20 + 10W30 = four different weights and your engine will get confused and blow your main camcrank bearing seal!
 
Don't worry about it.

YOURS:
Castrol SYNTEC Blend 5W20:
Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 100º C: 9.1

OTHERS:
Castrol SYNTEC 5W30 (full synthetic):
Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 100º C: 9.7

Mobil 1 10W30 (full synthetic):
Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 100º C: 10.0

At operating temperature, it is running at 6.2% thinner than Castrol Syntec full synthetic 5W30. That 5% lower viscosity jerryjg guestimated was actually very close (and probably spot on with other 30w oils).

The oil you have in is on the heavy end of the 20w oils, very close to the viscosity of a 30w oil.

 
Originally posted by: Apex
Don't worry about it.

YOURS:
Castrol SYNTEC Blend 5W20:
Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 100º C: 9.1

OTHERS:
Castrol SYNTEC 5W30 (full synthetic):
Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 100º C: 9.7

Mobil 1 10W30 (full synthetic):
Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 100º C: 10.0

At operating temperature, it is running at 6.2% thinner than Castrol Syntec full synthetic 5W30. That 5% lower viscosity jerryjg guestimated was actually very close (and probably spot on with other 30w oils).

The oil you have in is on the heavy end of the 20w oils, very close to the viscosity of a 30w oil.
yay, someone did what I was too lazy to do.. lol

Er, yeah.. I guess you're right... the SAE viscosity number is rather arbitrary.

Considering that oil usually thickens up with use... you'll be fine. 😉
 
Originally posted by: jerryjg
5wt- 20 is great oil. Don't F*ck with it. Maybe 10WT 30 is a better choice all around. My Mercury Grand Marquis specifys 5-30 moter oil, or manufacturers warranty may be voided. Does it really make a difference? Hell no. The real concern is getting fresh oil into the crankcase every 5000 miles or so. By then, the oil looks kinda thick and nasty, not to mention concerns for the sludge buildup in the oil filter, which is MY primary concern. Wanna mix oils- thats fine- no problem at all, except for some few synthetic oils which arent compatable with other oils. check the label.

uhhhh

you kn... um..


yeah.

😕
 
Originally posted by: Soccerman06
Originally posted by: Shawn
Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
drain and replace, dont mix weights.

what happens if you mix weights?

Well, have you ever seen a firecracker? Well imagine one going off in the engine because the oil gets into the combustion chamber and seeps the explosion into the crankcase (biga$$ boom). Or, it will just stop working because the oil wears out the gears more quickly. REPLACE DO NOT MIX

Edit: just because you have 2 apples and 1 orange doesnt meen you have 3 apples or 3 oranges
gears? do you have any clue what you're talking about
 
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
Originally posted by: Soccerman06
Originally posted by: Shawn
Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
drain and replace, dont mix weights.

what happens if you mix weights?

Well, have you ever seen a firecracker? Well imagine one going off in the engine because the oil gets into the combustion chamber and seeps the explosion into the crankcase (biga$$ boom). Or, it will just stop working because the oil wears out the gears more quickly. REPLACE DO NOT MIX

Edit: just because you have 2 apples and 1 orange doesnt meen you have 3 apples or 3 oranges
gears? do you have any clue what you're talking about

If it's an engine with roller cams (unlike overhead cams), there are gears in the engine (those used to rotate the camshaft or its equivalent). If not, the oil is used to:
lubricate the bearings of the crankshaft
lubricate the bearings of the camshaft
fill (as necessary) the hydraulic lifters
cool some things
???lubricate the inside of the cylindrers so the pistons will move easier???
(I'm not exactly sure about the last)

I don't think is a good idea to mix to oils with very different weights (like 20W50 and 5W20), but in your case this shouldn't be a problem
 
Oil lubricates and cools every friction surface in the engine.

Crankshaft main bearings
Bigend connecting rod bearings
wrist pin bearings
camshaft bearings
cylinders/rings
valves/valve guides/lifters
cam lobes
etc.

It probably isn't a good idea to mix extremes like that. There's no point in doing it on purpose.
 
Originally posted by: Calin
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
Originally posted by: Soccerman06
Originally posted by: Shawn
Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
drain and replace, dont mix weights.

what happens if you mix weights?

Well, have you ever seen a firecracker? Well imagine one going off in the engine because the oil gets into the combustion chamber and seeps the explosion into the crankcase (biga$$ boom). Or, it will just stop working because the oil wears out the gears more quickly. REPLACE DO NOT MIX

Edit: just because you have 2 apples and 1 orange doesnt meen you have 3 apples or 3 oranges
gears? do you have any clue what you're talking about

If it's an engine with roller cams (unlike overhead cams), there are gears in the engine (those used to rotate the camshaft or its equivalent). If not, the oil is used to:
lubricate the bearings of the crankshaft
lubricate the bearings of the camshaft
fill (as necessary) the hydraulic lifters
cool some things
???lubricate the inside of the cylindrers so the pistons will move easier???
(I'm not exactly sure about the last)

I don't think is a good idea to mix to oils with very different weights (like 20W50 and 5W20), but in your case this shouldn't be a problem



You've mixed up, in your definition in the head/cam design, roller cams and overhead valve cams. There are overhead valve head designs and overhead cam designs. In each design, you can have slider cams or roller cams. The roller cam designed head uses rollers at the tips of the rocker arms where they contact the cam lobes and the valve tips. Slider cam design heads have no rollers on the rocker arms where they contact the cam's lobes......they "slide" on the lobe surfaces....of course, this is in an OHC design. In an OHV design, the rollers are just on the rocker tip that contacts the valve tips.....the other end of the rocker arm is actuated by a pushrod that travels on the cam's lobes and moves the rocker arm.

Roller cams are a bit more efficient and durable as the rocker arms, with their rollers, produce less friction as they operate rolling along the wear surface of the cam lobes. They also have pretty much become the standard for rocker arm design in modern cars.

Now, for the gear driving the camshaft..........they're all gear driven in some sense. The camshaft has a gear at one end that connects it to and is driven from the cranshaft. Some use a complete gear-driven system.....rare. Most use either a belt-driven system or a chain-driven system. Especially in multiple overhead cam designs, it's most likely a belt, soemtimes a chain, rarely a set of gears. Most are completely divorced from the pressurized oil-lubrication path that the internal engine components use. No belt, Kevlar or otherwise, would survive long being bathed in oil.
 
Thanks, C'DaleRider
yes, I messed up the valve and cam position. And I was referring to my car (overhead valves and overhead camshaft with hydraulic lifters), the camshaft connected mechanically to the rest of the engine thru the distribution belt (distribution belt that is outside of the oil flow), in contrast to some kind of engine with overhead valves moved by pushrods. Well, those pushrods are usually moved by a camshaft that is inside the engine and is moved by gears. All the system (camshaft, crankshaft and gears) would be in the same oil bath).
I don't know if there are other places in the engine where gears are oiled by motor oil (I am not talking about gearbox, and I am not talking about the gearbox between electric starter and crankshaft, as it would be external)
 
My in-laws put 20w-50 in all of their vehicles, even their ATVs and lawnmowers. They think it is much better because of higher oil pressure.

Yea, those engines don't last very long...
 
Originally posted by: SagaLore
My in-laws put 20w-50 in all of their vehicles, even their ATVs and lawnmowers. They think it is much better because of higher oil pressure.

Yea, those engines don't last very long...
Most ATVs and lawnmowers don't even have "oil pressure"... lol
 
Originally posted by: cjgallen
Originally posted by: RagingBITCH
lol, I like how people said mixing the weights will harm it. 😛

5W20 + 10W30 = four different weights and your engine will get confused and blow your main camcrank bearing seal!

ROTFLMAO!

The engine will get "confused"...

Thanks for making my day!! I needed that!
 
Originally posted by: Calin
Well, those pushrods are usually moved by a camshaft that is inside the engine and is moved by gears.

Ever heard of a timing CHAIN? I thought it was the prevalent equivalent to the timing belt for those engines. Yes some have gears, but at least in my experience it's been chains more often than not.

Pic of timing CHAIN top sprocket is connected to.... wait for it... the camshaft!

My personal opionion on mixing the oils is that it's not a big deal for 1 oil change *unelss you're going 20K or so between - then you got other issues anyway. And I'll go with Eli for oil matters... He know's his sh!t er oil...
 
I heard of timing chains, but I haven't heard of european engines with pushrods. So, I supposed chains were used only when belts weren't strong enough (like in diesel engines).
I learned my lesson
 
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: jerryjg
Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
Originally posted by: jerryjg
5wt- 20 is great oil. Don't F*ck with it. Maybe 10WT 30 is a better choice all around. My Mercury Grand Marquis specifys 5-30 moter oil, or manufacturers warranty may be voided. Does it really make a difference? Hell no. The real concern is getting fresh oil into the crankcase every 5000 miles or so. By then, the oil looks kinda thick and nasty, not to mention concerns for the sludge buildup in the oil filter, which is MY primary concern. Wanna mix oils- thats fine- no problem at all, except for some few synthetic oils which arent compatable with other oils. check the label.


😕 WTF was all of that?

Too thin of oil can cause excess wear on your crank bearings and other major engine components.

you really ARE on crack. You think running oil with a 5% lower viscosity is going to damage a freakin engine? what damages an engine is not keeping a fresh oil/filter in it every 5000 miles or so. 5wt 30 moter oil is perfect as 10wt 30, except for different climates, it might be better to run 10w-30 over the long run-read 1000,000 miles.
There is no difference between 5W and 10W-30 at operating temperature.

the xW number is an arbitrary measure of cold cranking viscosity. It doesen't mean anything, other than how easy it is for your engine to turn over when cold.

Both are 30 weight oils at operating temperature.

Use 5W in the winter and 10W in the summer, or 5W year-around. Or 10W year around if you live somewhere like the SW.

Hell, you could probably run straight 30 weight down there.. lol

BTW, 30 to 20 is a drop of 33%.. not 5%. 😛 But your point still stands.

Even if you used 40 weight where a 20 is specifed, you wouldn't do any significant damage. It could if you used the improper weight over the long term, though.

Case close, finally someone post something that actually mean something.
 
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