Could I replace my brake pads?

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: AMCRambler
Yes, and actually you don't need to take the discs off, just the calipers. If it is disc brakes that is. It's really not hard, on my car all you do is take the wheel off take two bolts off the caliper and pull the caliper off. The pads sit in a mounting bracket right against the disc you just pry them out with a screw driver since they fit in pretty snug. The hardest part will be compressing the pistion on the caliper since the new pads will be much thicker. On mine you take the cap off the master cylinder and compress the piston with a c-clamp. Once the caliper is back on put the bolts back in and wheels back on. Don't forget to put the cap back on the master cylinder either. Not sure how different Nissan's are but they can't be that different. I'd recommend getting a Hayne's service manual for the car. They'll tell you exactly how to do it.

I don't take no cap off my master cylinder Maybe I should though I dunno! Also get a LARGE c clamp. I bought a set and they were too small. Go to home depot and get a bit mother. I also advise getting a haynes for the pictures, but it's a job you can do.

Does it sound like metal grinding on metal? My brakes did that when one of the bolts came out, but only in reverse.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: CraigRT
it's hella easy to do brakes... esp. if all parts are just being replaced... i always replace rotors instead of resurfacing cause they are so cheap anyhow.

How much do rotors cost? I'm getting a little vibration when braking at high speed.. I think it's time for a machining.

 

[TravisT]

Your front brake-pads are quite easy to change. The back brakes are a bit harder to deal with (so i've heard, i've never messed iwth them). I changed my front brake pads this past weekend as a matter of fact. My grandfather showed me how, it wasn't all that hard, just a few bolts and it cost me about 50 bucks for the pads.

 

How much do rotors cost? I'm getting a little vibration when braking at high speed.. I think it's time for a machining.

New rotors cost from $25 to $50 a piece.

 

[DrPizza]

Note:

For pushing in the pistons. NOT ALL pistons are pushed in using a c-clamp. While that's generally the case for front disc brakes, rear disc brakes sometimes need an extra step to retract the pistons. If a c-clamp doesn't easily push in the piston, look on the back of the caliper for a plug. (a bolt that doesn't seem to serve any purpose of holding things together.) Removing that bolt should expose a hole. You'll need an allen wrench to turn a set screw (or whatever it's called) to back off the piston. This is related to the emergency brake function on some rear wheel disc brakes.

Also, if you have brake drums on the rear, it's a little more involved than disc brakes, but still not something that you can't do yourself. There are a couple of springs that can be a pita if you don't have the right tools, but those tools are cheap.

If in doubt, get a (Chilton?) manual that shows you pictures, step by step, how to do it. Available in your auto parts store.

 

[StageLeft]

It's not the ebrake on the drums, since it's 4 wheel disk

There is absolutely no pulling or weird feelings when the scrunching occurs. It's EXACTLY the same sound as when I totally hosed the pads on my sentra in June from them wearing themselves down too much (nasty metal on metal). However, I really don't think the pads are worn! I am going to check out in detail the remaining 3 wheels and I'll know for sure. Hopefully that is the case.

Also it happens when the brakes are touched only lightly. The problem is somewhat intermittent though. At first I'd only notice after hard braking, and other times it's not there at all. But then the other morning it was there the first time I used brakes coming out of the driveway. I'll check on the pads in more detail though, but was just wondering if it could have been anything else...

 

[wicktron]

Brake jobs are EASY

 

[Pepsi90919]

Originally posted by: Roger

Doesn't he need to pop the cap on the brake fuid resevoir so it doesn't pop open and spray everywhere when he pushes in he piston?

I never do, who tops up the resevoir as the pads wear ?


You are welcome Wink

lots of people?

 

lots of people?

I run a repair shop, I see on average 12 vehicles a day in here, 95% of the vehicles have low brake fluid because they do not top off the fluids as the friction linings wear.

 

[Pepsi90919]

that's nice? 95% of the people that come into your shop probably make up about 0.00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001% of all car drivers on the road.

 

Well Pepsi, tell me how many brake resevoirs you look at on a daily basis ...........................

None

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Roger
Jack up vehicle (Use jack stands), remove tire/rim, remove two 12 MM bolts holding caliper on, retract piston(s) with C-clamp, remove old pads, spray new pads with Anti-Squeal, install new pads, reeinstall caliper, tighten caliper bolts, reinstall tire/rim.

Pump brake pedal until firm, test drive vehicle.

Sort of bad instructions.....anti-squeal on the front and back of pad? (no only back), what about watching the reservor when you compress the pistons?....don't you also have to check a couple other things and not assume it's actually a pad problem?

Another thing is I am assuming a C clamp is what works on all four corners on a 240...on my car it's C-Clamp for the fronts and a screw in piston on the rear (which the tool I later modified to remove my special window to frame nuts).

Brakes really are easy though...I did pads + converted to rear disc brakes in under 4 hours. Doing drums is sort of a pain and the shoes are expensive. I say make every corner disc if you plan on keeping the vehicle.

 

[StageLeft]

In regards to the squeel can somebody explain why putting on the BACK of the pad is any good? That's where the piston pushes the pad against the rotors right? That needs the lubricant...? Weird

 

alkemyst;

Fine, they are bad instructions, what would I know ?

You tell him how to do it then, if people continue breaking my stones, I will stop giving advice.

In regards to the squeel can somebody explain why putting on the BACK of the pad is any good? That's where the piston pushes the pad against the rotors right? That needs the lubricant...? Weird

Skoorb ;

Brake squeal is the pads vibrating at high frequencies within thier holders, spraying anti-squeal on the back of the pads prevents this from happening. (Very sticky stuff)

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
that's nice? 95% of the people that come into your shop probably make up about 0.00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001% of all car drivers on the road.

So I guess that any sample group for something is meaningless unless you poll 100% of the population? Unless Roger's customers make up an unusual percentage of the population who do very abnormal things it seems safe to use them as a reasonable sample of the population.

 

[Pepsi90919]

Originally posted by: Roger
Well Pepsi, tell me how many brake resevoirs you look at on a daily basis ...........................

None

5. where did i say none?

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Roger
alkemyst;

Fine, they are bad instructions, what would I know ?

You tell him how to do it then, if people continue breaking my stones, I will stop giving advice.

In regards to the squeel can somebody explain why putting on the BACK of the pad is any good? That's where the piston pushes the pad against the rotors right? That needs the lubricant...? Weird

Skoorb ;

Brake squeal is the pads vibrating at high frequencies within thier holders, spraying anti-squeal on the back of the pads prevents this from happening. (Very sticky stuff)

I am not bashing you Roger, really, it's just you got to think from a sort of 'idiot' point of view, and I speak from myself getting flamed from giving advice 'common sense' should work with

I have had a problem where some auto-idiot did put anti-squeal on the front of the pad and saw another thread where (with screw in pistons) actually cracked the caliper by mounting it in a vice and trying to compress the piston.