Core i5 2500K HSF upgrade

[s1nc1ty]

So I ended up getting the Core i5 2500k. I wasn't really planning on OCing much so I just went with the retail HSF that came with it. I did clock it up to 4 GHz and it ran just fine. Not too happy about the temps though.

I don't plan on really pushing it much. I would be happy at 4 GHz but running a bit cooler. What would be a good $50 HSF to replace the retail one with? I have been researching some HSFs but most don't list support for socket 1155. Am I missing something?

 

[fffblackmage]

What load temps are you getting?

The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is a really nice, but cheap HSF.

 

[weez82]

no need to speend $50

Cooler Master Hyper 212+ $28
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-...3705345&sr=8-1

XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 $29
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233082

XIGMATEK Dark Knight $29 after rebait
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233029

 

[Doclife]

No need to spend a ton of cash for a CPU cooler.

ZALMAN CNPS5X SZ 92mm Hydraulic CPU Cooler $14.99 (After $15 rebate, FS)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118090

Read the review of this cooler and be amazed. Can't go wrong with this $14.99 cooler.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1174-page4.html

 

[s1nc1ty]

What load temps are you getting?

The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is a really nice, but cheap HSF.

Well at stock speeds with the retail HSF this is what I am getting.

Idle: High 30Cs (Like 37 to 38C per core)
Load: High 50C (That is checking the temps right after some long gaming. I can see what the temps were running over the last minute.)

When setting the clock to 4 GHz

Idle: High 50c (The CPU was now running at a base speed of 3.3 instead of 1.6)
Load: Mid to high 70c (Looks like the CPU was turboing up to the 4 GHz)

When setting the clock to 4 GHz and turning off turbo

Idle: Low 70c (Just sitting in Windows)
Load: Wasn't liking the temps and didn't want to push my luck.

 

[pantsaregood]

Unless you applied some absurdly high voltages, your temperatures shouldn't be scaling up so ridiculously fast. Temperatures generally don't scale so linearly with clock speed.

 

[s1nc1ty]

Unless you applied some absurdly high voltages, your temperatures shouldn't be scaling up so ridiculously fast. Temperatures generally don't scale so linearly with clock speed.

As far as I know that is using the stock voltage. The only thing I changed was changing the multiplier from 33 to 40. I will load the "BIOS" defaults just to be sure and try again.

 

[s1nc1ty]

No need to spend a ton of cash for a CPU cooler.

ZALMAN CNPS5X SZ 92mm Hydraulic CPU Cooler $14.99 (After $15 rebate, FS)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118090

Read the review of this cooler and be amazed. Can't go wrong with this $14.99 cooler.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1174-page4.html

If I am understanding the installation correctly on the ZALMAN I would be able to install it without removing the board. It doesn't seem to use a back plate like the others.

I am shocked at the prices. I guess I was looking at models that were overkill.

 

[Doclife]

That review is for both Zalman CNPS9900 MAX & CNPS5X CPU Coolers. CNPS5X is the one you need to pay attention to. The Zalman CNPS9900 MAX is over priced and performed poorly.

 

[s1nc1ty]

That review is for both Zalman CNPS9900 MAX & CNPS5X CPU Coolers. CNPS5X is the one you need to pay attention to. The Zalman CNPS9900 MAX is over priced and performed poorly.

For $15 is it a no brainer upgrade. I think I will order the CNPS5X tomorrow.

 

[fffblackmage]

As far as I know that is using the stock voltage. The only thing I changed was changing the multiplier from 33 to 40. I will load the "BIOS" defaults just to be sure and try again.

If you left the voltage to "auto," the mobo might be compensating for increased clockspeeds with a higher voltage for system stability. More often than not, the mobo increases the voltage too much, so you might want to try specifying the voltage you want instead.

 

[paperwastage]

If you left the voltage to "auto," the mobo might be compensating for increased clockspeeds with a higher voltage for system stability. More often than not, the mobo increases the voltage too much, so you might want to try specifying the voltage you want instead.

no matter what, a $15-$30 HSF upgrade is worth it.

my 2500k under stock cooler is similar to OP's temp... 50/70+ on 4ghz idle/stress, should be stock volts

upgraded to 212+. Now below 60 for 4.5ghz stress(~1.3v)

 

[infoiltrator]

With some exceptions 1155 motherboards use the same cooler mounts as 1156 motherboards.
I have read of "protrusions" interferring with some backplates. Nothing a dremel can't cure.

 

[x26]

Well at stock speeds with the retail HSF this is what I am getting.

Idle: High 30Cs (Like 37 to 38C per core)
Load: High 50C (That is checking the temps right after some long gaming. I can see what the temps were running over the last minute.)

When setting the clock to 4 GHz

Idle: High 50c (The CPU was now running at a base speed of 3.3 instead of 1.6)
Load: Mid to high 70c (Looks like the CPU was turboing up to the 4 GHz)

When setting the clock to 4 GHz and turning off turbo

Idle: Low 70c (Just sitting in Windows)
Load: Wasn't liking the temps and didn't want to push my luck.

Temps are fine, imo.

I use only Stock hs/fan and get an easy 4.4 on air.

I had gotten a 212 +--Ridiculous, so I sent it back--Kind of felt like a "Ricer". Save your money!

ETA: It looks like your cooler might not be seated properly.--I hate INTEL for using those crappy plastic jiggers...
Probably the same Retard that hired WiiIAm...

 

[Dadofamunky]

I think Zalmans are crap IMHO and experience. I also agree with X26 that plastic inserts are junk. They 'seem' easy at first.

I think a 212+ would be a totally valid upgrade from the stock cooler. Idling in the 70's isn't necessarily ideal. Why run any risks when an hour's work will cut your idle temps by 40 degrees? Assuming you a) install it correctly; b) use a push-pull fan configuration. This may block a RAM slot. Fortunately, you can use slots 1-3 for a 2-DIMM config.

 

[killster1]

i dont think zalman (in general) are crap but that is def a tiny pos cooler! id get anything with direct heatpipe contact. i use xigimatic's and sunbeam core contact coolers. Massive with lots heatpipes and lots of fins = good yet cheap! hehe

also i bet the guy that hyping them gets paid to do so =P Cough doclife

 

[Doclife]

i dont think zalman (in general) are crap but that is def a tiny pos cooler! id get anything with direct heatpipe contact. i use xigimatic's and sunbeam core contact coolers. Massive with lots heatpipes and lots of fins = good yet cheap! hehe

also i bet the guy that hyping them gets paid to do so =P Cough doclife

I only make sensible recommendation .

If OP hasn't ordered the cooler yet, here is a bonus:

Use Newegg's promo code BTEKFHE23 to get 15% off any CPU cooler.

This brings the cost of the ZALMAN CNPS5X SZ to $10.49 (after $15 rebate, FS too). I dare anyone to beat the price/performance ratio of this POS little cooler

 

[Zap]

I only make sensible recommendation .

If OP hasn't ordered the cooler yet, here is a bonus:

Use Newegg's promo code BTEKFHE23 to get 15% off any CPU cooler.

This brings the cost of the ZALMAN CNPS5X SZ to $10.49 (after $15 rebate, FS too). I dare anyone to beat the price/performance ratio of this POS little cooler

Just search for CPU coolers with rebate and free shipping.

Xigmatek Balder ends up around $17. That's within spitting distance of price/performance. It uses a 120mm fan and three U shaped heatpipes with direct touch.

Corsair A70 is $24. It uses four U shaped heatpipes with direct touch, and comes with two 120mm fans for push/pull out of the box.

Xigmatek Thor's Hammer is $35, basically HALF price. It has SEVEN of those U shaped heatpipes, four of which are direct touch. It uses 120mm fans. Normally not included, but Newegg's description says it comes with a separate 120mm fan plus mounting kit (originally 775/1366, new kit supports 1155/1156).

 

[nyker96]

If you want best bang for buck: Get Mugen 2 from newegg.com for $40 shipped.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185142

 

[Hogan773]

Temps are fine, imo.

I use only Stock hs/fan and get an easy 4.4 on air.

I had gotten a 212 +--Ridiculous, so I sent it back--Kind of felt like a "Ricer". Save your money!

ETA: It looks like your cooler might not be seated properly.--I hate INTEL for using those crappy plastic jiggers...
Probably the same Retard that hired WiiIAm...

This is a silly post and those of you making similar decisions to the OP should ignore it. "Ricer"? What is more important, lower operating temps or "looks"? Most people don't even have a window into their case, and if you do, then you really care more about how the cooler looks vs how it works?

I have a 212+ that I got for $15 after rebate - if you're gonna spend $300+ on a K-chip plus another 150-200 for a mobo, then why are you gonna scrimp on $15-25 for proper cooling? Its like buying a $70,000 BMW but buying some $40 el-cheapo tires instead of $125 decent tires. Pennywise pound foolish.

 

[Pneumothorax]

... Its like buying a $70,000 BMW but buying some $40 el-cheapo tires instead of $125 decent tires. Pennywise pound foolish.

Try $300-$400 per installed tire for most current model BMW's with 18"+ rims.

 

[x26]

This is a silly post and those of you making similar decisions to the OP should ignore it. "Ricer"? What is more important, lower operating temps or "looks"? Most people don't even have a window into their case, and if you do, then you really care more about how the cooler looks vs how it works?

I have a 212+ that I got for $15 after rebate - if you're gonna spend $300+ on a K-chip plus another 150-200 for a mobo, then why are you gonna scrimp on $15-25 for proper cooling? Its like buying a $70,000 BMW but buying some $40 el-cheapo tires instead of $125 decent tires. Pennywise pound foolish.

Sorry. I do Not have windows in my "Brushed-Aluminum" Lian Li Case!!

And I "DO" have the $$70,000.00 + BMW All Stock with Michelin PS super-Sports that were just released... HAHA!!

Not everyone is as Retarded as you think!!--Although I agree most people are so no offense taken.

 

[x26]

Try $300-$400 per installed tire for most current model BMW's with 18"+ rims.

Amen!!

ETA: And worth every $$--I never would have believed how "Sticky" tires could be!!

 

[s1nc1ty]

If you left the voltage to "auto," the mobo might be compensating for increased clockspeeds with a higher voltage for system stability. More often than not, the mobo increases the voltage too much, so you might want to try specifying the voltage you want instead.

Leaving the voltage on auto was causing the major heat increase. I notice the voltage was running at 1.168 in the BIOS so the closest I could set it to that is 1.170. Does this sound about right? It looks like I may have set the voltage too low. From what I was reading it should have been 1.250 for the base. I changed it to that and the temps stayed about the same.

I did get in the new HSF and it made a major difference in temps. I was idling around 31C instead of 38C. Running at a light load where the CPU clocks up to the normal 3.3 GHz I was running around 37C.

So since I am happy with how the temps look I set the multiplier from 33 to 40. I still have turbo on. Now the CPU runs at 3.3 GHz all the time and regardless of the load, thread wise, it always seems to turbo up to 4.0 GHz. I am assuming turning turbo off it will run at 4.0 GHz all the time instead? While running at 4.0 GHz the temps were only hitting around 40C or so. Granted the CPU wasn't running 100% load but around 60 to 70% on all cores. I did run Prime95 with the OC clock set to 4 GHz. I was running 70C while doing so. I dropped the voltage back to 1.170 and load temps dropped down to 60C. I will keep Prime95 running for a couple more hours to see how it holds up.

I turned off turbo yet the CPU still stayed at 3.3 GHz. Regardless of what clock I set the CPU to it would always show as being 3.3 GHz in Windows and in monitoring apps. The Intel monitoring app that shows turbo clock does reflect the correct speed when the CPU takes a load. So I am assuming once OCing the CPU will always idle at the base clock of 3.3 GHz and then clock up to the OC clock when it takes a load? If that is the case then what is the difference in having turbo on or not?

Does all of this make sense? I am use to having what ever the OC is set the CPU simply runs at that clock all the time. Then again that was OCing with Core 2 generation chips.

 

[omega329]

My ambient is 80F
2500k/p8p67 mobo @ 3.3 with stock auto voltage (1.15 i think at load)
I am using the HAF 922 stock
CM 212+ Stock
At idle I average around 33-35C
At prime 95 for an hour I get 50-55C

I may need to do a reset, not sure, with my daily tasks my temps never top 45C, so until I start gaming I a am not going to worry about it, I have my core temp running 24/7 and have it to shut off @ 55C though.
I am not sure what I can change from my voltage, I have a crappy HDD atm so restarting my computer for hours to test voltages is not fun. I need to mess with the UEFI offset voltage, because I don't want my comp running @ lets say 1.2vcore the whole time I want it to go down along with the clock, which at this point I do not think is possible while not on "auto"