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omg, scolling down that thread, there is even a 'classic trek case. i'm guessing, you do this for work? i doubt you have your own milling machine "for fun".
omg, scolling down that thread, there is even a 'classic trek case. i'm guessing, you do this for work? i doubt you have your own milling machine "for fun".
I do commissioned builds when time allows for events. I made two of the "Tricorder" inspired Star Trek builds, 1st was for Comic-Con giveaway hosted by Maximum PC and 2nd was for David Gerrold, who wrote one of the original series episodes. Build details here, http://mnpctech.com/star-trek-gaming-pc-case-mod-tribute-to-leonard-nimoy.html
Finally finished the Deepcool GENOME PC for 2016 Computex, so I can back to my build (Yay!) I scored this new Bitspower Summit EF cpu waterblock cheap on Ebay, and I do like the smoked acrylic top.
So looking at the pictures of this case am I correct in assuming that it will hold a second 3 drive cage in addition to 3 drive cage and 2 drive cages that come with it?
Haha, Yes, I'm alive. Thank you for being patient. I had to halt progress on my build to fulfill commitments for Computex. Over the past 3 weeks I bought on 4790K for $225 shipped and $300 for reference GTX 980 on Ebay auctions. Fyi: Prices on used 980s are falling on Ebay as people upgrade to 1080s. I have one more build to finish, and I'll back on the track with this one!
That is some excellent work - seriously. And a cute beagle at the office never hurts.
Thanks again for the tip you provided earlier in this thread. I keep equivocating regarding a showy build or something far less flashy but it's great to be in touch with Alain.
The extended holiday has bought me some time to work on my build. I recently scored EK water block for the Gigabyte OC force motherboard. It directly cools Intel Z87 southbridge (PCH), PLX PEX 8474 PCIe lane splitter as well as power regulation (VRM / MOSFETs) module. This will also compliment the stainless steel liquid lines nicely.
So, finally back on it... and it hurt to make the 3/4" hole into the paint to route the 316 stainless steel pc liquid cooling tube from the front radiator, but it just makes sense this way. I need to pick-up a bottle of the GULF Blue paint, so I can touch up the exposed steel in the hole. I modified one of the INLET/OUTLET black rubber grommets from NZXT Phantom to finish the mid section hole. Last night I bent the first SS tube of the loop. The stainless steel compression fittings are my own design. I wanted fitting that discreet in size and matched the tubing.
Just a small update as my free time to work on this is getting more scarce. I've been bending the tubing and learning the ways of the Stainless Jedi. I love the look of stainless steel. It echos the fuel and brake lines on race cars, but has it's own learning curve. In retrospect, the scale of PC chassis is just too small for the 1-1/2" bends you get with the SS bending mandrels I've found.. Suppose I could go thicker wall and make custom mandrel, but I'll try 3/8" OD instead of 1/2" OD next time.
Specs: Stainless T-304/304L, Seamless Tube, 0.5" x 0.035" x 0.43"
Wow! Spotless Stainless job. You're a gifted craftsman, Bill.
When (if) I make a straight cut with my Mnpctech Nibblers without bloodshed I consider it a great accomplishment. :biggrin:
Can't wait to see this beast on track!
What fans will be on the rads? There's a technique to make PWM GTs emulate turbos spooling up and spinning down. (Un)Fortunately not as loud as those in the 917.
I cut and bent the final piece of SS tubing other day. I really liked the challenge in using something different. I also like it's bright metallic finish. It doesn't absorb smudges, fingerprints, so maintenance it easy. The biggest advantage to using stainless for PC water cooling is it's corrosion resistant properties. It does require specialized tools that include a hacksaw with bi-metal cutting blade, hand files and deburr tool. You must deburr the edges of the tubing to avoid slicing into rubber o-rings for your compression fittings. It also requires a specialty bending tool, like a hand pipe or mandrel bender. I recommend the 600 series bender by Rigid Tool or Imperial brand tube benders, these are the lowest cost. Type of stainless tubing I used for my loop is T-304/304L, Seamless Tube in 0.5" x 0.035" x 0.43"
Tools & Supplies Used:
*RIGID 600 Series Tubing Bender
*Table Vise with Terry Cloth towel, to avoid scratching tubing.
*Micro Hand File
*Hacksaw with Bi-Metal Cutting Blade
*Table top grinder
*50 grit sand paper
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