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As long as the wires are connected securely. I would not just run wires into the holes without some sort of screw or clamp. Vibration and the car suspension could cause a loose connection.
Why do you need a CAP anyway? In all of my car audio systems I have never needed a CAP. If you wire the system up properly and do the big three under the hood, then you will never need a power cap.
Big three is 0 gauge wired and I'm only running a 500 watt amp to 2 comp kicker 12s yet when idling and strong bass note hits it effects not only the electrical system of my car but the car actually looses rpms and feels like it wants to stall.. I'm having so many installation issues with the cap that I'm ready to just say screw it and make sure my jumper cables are handy lol.
Got by the screw issues and now moved on to issues charging the cap. Hook + &- up from power supply the digital screen does not light up at all. There is a 3rd terminal for a remote turn on and not sure if I need to run that as well b4 charging. Also can I jump that connection from cap to amp or does amp need its own separate remote turn on wire?
Instead of a CAP upgrade your alternator. If you have done the big 3 and your lights dim still off a 500 watt amp then you should look into getting a bigger alternator if possible. Also you can buy a gel battery to install in your trunk and use that as a CAP to much better effect.
I wouldn't run a cap without securely mounting the wires and the cap itself. That's a lot of amps flowing through those cables to just let them dangle loosely. Very easy to start a fire if it isn't properly fused should the wire come loose and cause a short.
I've never had a cap that needed a turn on wire but you should check the manual for the cap. I would assume you'll need it wired up so that the circuit will allow power to flow through to charge it. You should be fine with daisy chaining the remote wire. I've ran 2-3 separate components before with one wire with no problems.
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