Can anyone recommend a cheap GAS chainsaw?

[ManBearPig]

How many trees? You know anybody that'll do it for you?

And if you do do it yourself, please take EVERY safety precaution.

Those 3 trees I posted, maybe 1-2 more. I don't know of anyone that'll do it. Yes sir, I'll definitely watch out. I plan to provide support for my brother who has experience with trees. I wish they weren't so tall though.

Also, neither my brother nor my dad wants electric. I know it's cleaner and less hassle, but most of the time I kinda hate using electrical outdoor power tools because of that damn cord! The battery ones are better, but the batteries ans chargers are quite expensive and I might as well just get gas at that point.

 

[BoomerD]

Battery powered chainsaws are a waste of materials. They're OK for removing a small limb or two...but not for cutting trees.

I'll again recommend calling some of the local saw shops to see if they have any "refurbished" units at a good price. Most of the shops will have at least a couple, maybe taken in trade...and the ones here offer a warranty on them as well. You can often get a MUCH better saw for the price of a mediocre one...if you're willing to buy refurbished.

 

[ManBearPig]

Battery powered chainsaws are a waste of materials. They're OK for removing a small limb or two...but not for cutting trees.

I'll again recommend calling some of the local saw shops to see if they have any "refurbished" units at a good price. Most of the shops will have at least a couple, maybe taken in trade...and the ones here offer a warranty on them as well. You can often get a MUCH better saw for the price of a mediocre one...if you're willing to buy refurbished.

Err I don't mind refurbished at all, but I've never seen a saw shop around here.

 

[Kirby]

Funny in 2004 news stations were telling people "chainsaws are dangerous, now is not the time to use one"...right, I had the tops of 2 pine trees sitting in my backyard WTF would anyone do, cut 'em up by hand? LOL..

We had two 100+ year old pecan trees fall in 2004, one on the gable of our house, crushing the attic, the sheet rock about the kitchen, and blocking in the carport. We rebuilt the trusses and built a finished room were the attic was. We had firewood for several years after that.

I can go the rest of my life without another hurricane.

 

[ManBearPig]

As of today, I'm a proud owner of this MS 180c chainsaw. Can't wait to saw some fucking trees down.

Thanks for all your help people (especially boomer)!

 

[ManBearPig]

Oh yeah, on the website it says the length is 14". On the bar it says 16". I asked the guy and he said maybe it was the reach but he wasn't sure. So which do you go by?

 

[Gillbot]

Craigslist, or grab a cheapie from ebay. That's what I did.

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

So, approx, $240 for a tool used infrequently/sporadically because 'Dad' doesn't want to rent? If you send me $50, I promise to email you weekly for the rest of your life telling you how handsome, wise and, intelligent you are.

 

[ManBearPig]

So, approx, $240 for a tool used infrequently/sporadically because 'Dad' doesn't want to rent? If you send me $50, I promise to email you weekly for the rest of your life telling you how handsome, wise and, intelligent you are.

Damnit, wish you would've said something earlier. I found two coupons at the last minute, turned out to be $197 including tax, 6 quarts of oil and an extra year of warranty. It's a nice tool to have around, plus I can help out my brother in law/grandma/etc.

 

[BoomerD]

Oh yeah, on the website it says the length is 14". On the bar it says 16". I asked the guy and he said maybe it was the reach but he wasn't sure. So which do you go by?

I don't see that length listed on the website you posted, only that the recommended bar sizes range from 12 to 16 inches.

Looks like you got a decent saw for a fair price. IMO, a 16 inch bar is a bit longer than you'll need for what you have at hand, but it'll do. (longer bar takes more power when cutting) A 14 inch would have been "mo better," but as long as you take it easy when cutting large logs/trees, you'll be fine. (just don't "hog into them," let the saw do it's work.)
You should probably get one or two spare chains for that. It's not at all uncommon for folks who are unacquainted with chain saws to ruin a chain or two...Also, a good sharpening file set-up, or even a dremel-powered chain sharpener will come in handy. (file for field use, dremel for home use where you have power)

Edit: Looking at that site again, I see the 16 inch bar is the standard recommended bar for that saw. Should be fine.

 

[Bryophyte]

Oh yeah, on the website it says the length is 14". On the bar it says 16". I asked the guy and he said maybe it was the reach but he wasn't sure. So which do you go by?

This page shows both the 14 and 16 for the same price (pull down menu) for that model:

http://www.stihldealer.net/productd...27-toplvl-2-catid-2-subcat-2-catprods-38.aspx

 

[Bryophyte]

My saw is http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS261.html with the 20" bar. Well, it's the MS260, which the 261 replaced. A giant step up from my 14" Poulan POS.

 

[ManBearPig]

I don't see that length listed on the website you posted, only that the recommended bar sizes range from 12 to 16 inches.

Looks like you got a decent saw for a fair price. IMO, a 16 inch bar is a bit longer than you'll need for what you have at hand, but it'll do. (longer bar takes more power when cutting) A 14 inch would have been "mo better," but as long as you take it easy when cutting large logs/trees, you'll be fine. (just don't "hog into them," let the saw do it's work.)
You should probably get one or two spare chains for that. It's not at all uncommon for folks who are unacquainted with chain saws to ruin a chain or two...Also, a good sharpening file set-up, or even a dremel-powered chain sharpener will come in handy. (file for field use, dremel for home use where you have power)

Edit: Looking at that site again, I see the 16 inch bar is the standard recommended bar for that saw. Should be fine.

Oh, for some reason i thought it was 14" because i was going to buy the 14" MS 170 and at the store it had the 16" bar. I think they gave me the easy2start version which retails for a bit more too, so i guess thats good. I didnt even think of the power/length, but i was going to go with 14" anyway (despite ending up with 16").

Also, i have NO idea what to do with those sharpeners. Im hoping it doesnt get dull fast so that i wont have to deal with it anytime soon, heh. Apparently this uses premium low ethanol gas or some shit? Ugh...i dont feel like opening up the manual.

My saw is http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS261.html with the 20" bar. Well, it's the MS260, which the 261 replaced. A giant step up from my 14" Poulan POS.

Sweet, wish i could afford one like that...although i dont suppose id ever need the extra power. I hope the saw i got (you guys got me to buy lol) is better than the 14" Poulan i was going to buy too...

 

[arcenite]

All saws mentioned in this thread are pansy saws. OP put down the purse and i'll let you borrow mine demonstrated in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60Tamp2fHhg

 

[Bryophyte]

Oh, for some reason i thought it was 14" because i was going to buy the 14" MS 170 and at the store it had the 16" bar. I think they gave me the easy2start version which retails for a bit more too, so i guess thats good. I didnt even think of the power/length, but i was going to go with 14" anyway (despite ending up with 16").

Also, i have NO idea what to do with those sharpeners. Im hoping it doesnt get dull fast so that i wont have to deal with it anytime soon, heh. Apparently this uses premium low ethanol gas or some shit? Ugh...i dont feel like opening up the manual.



Sweet, wish i could afford one like that...although i dont suppose id ever need the extra power. I hope the saw i got (you guys got me to buy lol) is better than the 14" Poulan i was going to buy too...

Learn to sharpen the chain and keep it sharp. It's easier to use, does a better job, and is one hell of a lot safer to use with a sharp chain.

 

[BoomerD]

All saws mentioned in this thread are pansy saws. OP put down the purse and i'll let you borrow mine demonstrated in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60Tamp2fHhg

One of my wife's uncles used to race hotsaws every year at the logging competitions. His fastest one was powered by a 360 (?) Yamaha motorcycle engine...but that was over 30 years ago...ALL the saws in those hotsaw contests had to be hand-held, no V-8 motors allowed back then...although there were a few in demonstrations from time to time.

Chain sharpening videos:

http://www.youtube.com/results?sear...with+a+file&aq=2&oq=how+to+sharpen+a+chainsaw

http://www.youtube.com/results?sear...mel&aq=1&oq=how+to+sharpen+a+chainsaw+with+a+

 

[ManBearPig]

Any oils you guys recommend to lubricate the bar? Good lord theres so much shit I have to do for this chainsaw lol.

 

[BoomerD]

Meh...any bar oil will do. I've seen guys use heavy weight motor oils, but they're not the right product for the job.

 

[ManBearPig]

Guess I'll be hitting walmart up since I know of no where else to get it

 

[BoomerD]

Guess I'll be hitting walmart up since I know of no where else to get it

That should be fine. You COULD have gotten it when you bought your saw...but honestly, I doubt the "official Stihl" branded bar oil is any better than the stuff you'll buy at WallyWorld.

 

[Texashiker]

Any oils you guys recommend to lubricate the bar? Good lord theres so much shit I have to do for this chainsaw lol.

Just buy a gallon of bar oil from the stihl dealership

 

[Scarpozzi]

Agreed....a good bow saw will take care of most trees. It's just not as easy to cut a tree down with one. A chainsaw is a lot more efficient.

Personally, if you consider the difference between a cheap chainsaw and a quality one, You might want to consider spending a little extra. I like Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws the best. Always make sure you have plenty of bar oil in them and keep your chains sharp. If you're cutting a lot hardwoods, go ahead and buy a second chain so you can swap it out on the fly instead of having to take it back to the shop for sharpening.

FYI. I've seen refurbished Husqvarna chainsaws at Northern Tool for decent prices. They aren't cheap....but when it comes to safety features and engine quality...it's worth the extra money.

 

[edro]

I used to use a reciprocating saw (sawzall) with a 12" wood blade before I got my chainsaw.
I got a small used Stihl from a flea market for $85. I love it.

You can also use an axe, which I used in conjunction with my sawzall.

 

[ManBearPig]

Horrible first experience with this saw...it was fine, then the bar oil stopped coming out so we took it apart and cleaned it and put the bar back on, restarted it and then the engine sped ALL the way up and the fucking chain fell off. So...guess I have to take it back to the dealership. Ugh.

 

[BoomerD]

Horrible first experience with this saw...it was fine, then the bar oil stopped coming out so we took it apart and cleaned it and put the bar back on, restarted it and then the engine sped ALL the way up and the fucking chain fell off. So...guess I have to take it back to the dealership. Ugh.

The bar oil shouldn't come out in flood amounts...just enough to keep the chain lubricated.

Odds are, when you took it apart to clean it...you didn't get it put back together right...and/or either didn't get the chain on the drive sprocket right, or just didn't get it tightened up right.

Consider this part of the learning curve. At least, no one lost a hand in the process.