bolt thru kits

[Dorkenstein]

I put a new HSF on my motherboard today and used a bolt thru kit. I screwed it in far enough to see a little nub of screw come out of the backplate holes on the other side of the mobo.

Like and idiot I tried to test the sturdiness of it and I wiggled the heatsink just a teeny bit. I felt like there was entirely too much movement. Could it be my imagination, do I need to screw it in some more, or could it be a loose motherboard mounting screw? Thanks.

 

[Mwing]

is it the thermalright one? the screws are spring loaded, so there should be some wiggle, i wouldnt worry about it, and remember your fingers have some meat in you would think it is a big wiggle but it may not be

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Depending on which cooler you chose, it will have a rigid fit, or it can be twisted this way and that.

But "twisted this way and that" doesn't mean it isn't making a solid contact with the CPU's IHS -- sliding around or pivoting in the thermal grease or paste.

The ThermalRight coolers with the bracket assembly (Ultra 120, U-120-Extreme, Ultima 90, IFX-14) will pivot over the center of the IHS. But the spring-loaded screws hold the cooler firmly to the IHS so that an even pressure distributes the thermal paste in a consistent layer.

 

[error8]

I've used both Thermalright bolt thru kit and Xigmatek's kit and they both seem to have some "looseness" in the heatsink. But the contact seems to be good enough for a perfect heat transfer.

 

[imported_Scoop]

Spring-loaded screws? You screw them until they don't turn.

 

[supremelaw]

This bolt-thru-kit does not appear to have a 1-to-1 replacement
for the white plastic bushing that is directly beneath
the chrome "feet" on Intel's stock HSF. See:

Sidewinder


There are more photos ...

here

... specifically the white bushings beneath the 4 chrome feet
on Intel's stock HSF.


It may be necessary to re-cycle those bushings,
when the bolt-thru-kit replaces the push-pins.


We just ordered three of the latter kits, and
hopefully they come with instructions.

If not, the Salesman there seems to be
very conscientious and reliable.


Sincerely yours,
/s/ Paul Andrew Mitchell, Inventor and
Webmaster, Supreme Law Library

All Rights Reserved without Prejudice

 

[TwwIX]

Hi. Migrated from my post like you suggested.

Anyway,is this the "bushing" that you are referring to http://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0119ve2.jpg


How exactly are we supposed to recycle them?
Will this work at all or should i cancel my order of that bolt-thru-kit?

 

[Tweakin]

I'm not sure what the "bushing" is, but I have been using a sidewinder kit on my Scythe and have no issues whatsoever. I love it.

 

[Dorkenstein]

Wait, so you really screw them in until there's no more thread left? May be a "captain obvious" question but I didn't think of it that way.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

With spring-loaded screws, I'd think that's the only way they meant it to be done. At least on the ThermalRight units, they tell you in the instructions. Of course, in our hurry and self-confidence through intuitive survey of the parts and fittings, it's possible to overlook the brief but explicit instructions brochure.

I've done it. I freely admit.

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: Dorkenstein
Wait, so you really screw them in until there's no more thread left? May be a "captain obvious" question but I didn't think of it that way.

If it's the Thermalright kit, the screws are designed to be "bottomed out". If you look at them closely. you will see that they are threaded only part way; that is by design. Screw them all the way in (but stop when they go tight or you can break the screw). The springs are designed to apply the proper tension at that length.

 

[Rubycon]

Yup screw down until it bottoms out. If you see the bosses protruding through the board the screws will reach end prematurely. Try grinding down the bosses until they are nearly flush with the board. Ideally the screws should just reach the pcb but not put pressure on it for best results.

 

[Dorkenstein]

This is the Xigmatek bolt kit. Should I take it out of the case and screw them in all the way? Thanks for the advice.

 

[Navid]

Originally posted by: Dorkenstein
This is the Xigmatek bolt kit. Should I take it out of the case and screw them in all the way? Thanks for the advice.

You can use this technique so that you don't have to remove the motherboard if there is a next time.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...111635&highlight_key=y

 

[error8]

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: Dorkenstein
This is the Xigmatek bolt kit. Should I take it out of the case and screw them in all the way? Thanks for the advice.

You can use this technique so that you don't have to remove the motherboard if there is a next time.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...111635&highlight_key=y

I don't understand this. I had a Thermalright Ultra 90 with a bolt thru kit and I've replaced it with a Xigmatek S1283 ( useless upgrade ), with also a bolt thru kit. When I installed the second cooler, I've used the X plate of the Thermalright, which was in place and it didn't need any removing.

Why do we need to "glue" the black plate onto the mobo?? I don't get it.

 

[Navid]

Originally posted by: error8

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: Dorkenstein
This is the Xigmatek bolt kit. Should I take it out of the case and screw them in all the way? Thanks for the advice.

You can use this technique so that you don't have to remove the motherboard if there is a next time.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...111635&highlight_key=y

I don't understand this. I had a Thermalright Ultra 90 with a bolt thru kit and I've replaced it with a Xigmatek S1283 ( useless upgrade ), with also a bolt thru kit. When I installed the second cooler, I've used the X plate of the Thermalright, which was in place and it didn't need any removing.

Why do we need to "glue" the black plate onto the mobo?? I don't get it.

Who told you to glue anything to the mobo?

 

[error8]

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: error8

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: Dorkenstein
This is the Xigmatek bolt kit. Should I take it out of the case and screw them in all the way? Thanks for the advice.

You can use this technique so that you don't have to remove the motherboard if there is a next time.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...111635&highlight_key=y

I don't understand this. I had a Thermalright Ultra 90 with a bolt thru kit and I've replaced it with a Xigmatek S1283 ( useless upgrade ), with also a bolt thru kit. When I installed the second cooler, I've used the X plate of the Thermalright, which was in place and it didn't need any removing.

Why do we need to "glue" the black plate onto the mobo?? I don't get it.

Who told you to glue anything to the mobo?

I said that because I've seen the tape on the cardboard, glued on to the case ( not onto the mobo ). But the point is that I just don't see the usefulness of the guide. No offense for your hard work.

 

[Navid]

Originally posted by: error8

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: error8

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: Dorkenstein
This is the Xigmatek bolt kit. Should I take it out of the case and screw them in all the way? Thanks for the advice.

You can use this technique so that you don't have to remove the motherboard if there is a next time.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...111635&highlight_key=y

I don't understand this. I had a Thermalright Ultra 90 with a bolt thru kit and I've replaced it with a Xigmatek S1283 ( useless upgrade ), with also a bolt thru kit. When I installed the second cooler, I've used the X plate of the Thermalright, which was in place and it didn't need any removing.

Why do we need to "glue" the black plate onto the mobo?? I don't get it.

Who told you to glue anything to the mobo?

I said that because I've seen the tape on the cardboard, glued on to the case ( not onto the mobo ). But the point is that I just don't see the usefulness of the guide. No offense for your hard work.

Non taken. I was trying to understand the question.

For a typical case, there is enough distance between the back of the motherboard and the motherboard tray that if you unscrew the cooler, with nothing to hold the backplate in place, the backplate will fall. This has to do with the length of the standoffs used to attach the motherboard to the motherboard tray (case).

If your backplate did not fall when you unscrewed your cooler, I can think of a few reasons why it did not. But, I have no way of knowing for sure.
1- You used the adhesive on the backplate, by removing the peel-off, to attach your backplate to your motherboard. This is not a good idea since if you ever want to remove the backplate, you will be up for a shock.
2- You have used short stand-offs to attach your motherboard to your case. So, the backplate is actually held in place by your motherboard tray. Common cases like Antec P182 use stand-offs that are not short enough.
3- Your backplate was held in place temporarily by the cushion between the backplate and the motherboard. That is not always going to happen and the next time you do it, it may fall.

 

[error8]

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: error8

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: error8

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: Dorkenstein
This is the Xigmatek bolt kit. Should I take it out of the case and screw them in all the way? Thanks for the advice.

You can use this technique so that you don't have to remove the motherboard if there is a next time.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...111635&highlight_key=y

I don't understand this. I had a Thermalright Ultra 90 with a bolt thru kit and I've replaced it with a Xigmatek S1283 ( useless upgrade ), with also a bolt thru kit. When I installed the second cooler, I've used the X plate of the Thermalright, which was in place and it didn't need any removing.

Why do we need to "glue" the black plate onto the mobo?? I don't get it.

Who told you to glue anything to the mobo?

I said that because I've seen the tape on the cardboard, glued on to the case ( not onto the mobo ). But the point is that I just don't see the usefulness of the guide. No offense for your hard work.

Non taken. I was trying to understand the question.

For a typical case, there is enough distance between the back of the motherboard and the motherboard tray that if you unscrew the cooler, with nothing to hold the backplate in place, the backplate will fall. This has to do with the length of the standoffs used to attach the motherboard to the motherboard tray (case).

If your backplate did not fall when you unscrewed your cooler, I can think of a few reasons why it did not. But, I have no way of knowing for sure.
1- You used the adhesive on the backplate, by removing the peel-off, to attach your backplate to your motherboard. This is not a good idea since if you ever want to remove the backplate, you will be up for a shock.
2- You have used short stand-offs to attach your motherboard to your case. So, the backplate is actually held in place by your motherboard tray. Common cases like Antec P182 use stand-offs that are not short enough.
3- Your backplate was held in place temporarily by the cushion between the backplate and the motherboard. That is not always going to happen and the next time you do it, it may fall.

Ok, now I've understood. I'm in the second category and in my limited mind, I had the impression that everyone else was in the same situation as me. I didn't use the adhesive on the backplate, but it is actually held in place by my motherboard tray. It never crossed my mind, sadly, that there are longer stand-offs and the backplate cannot be held in place. Good to have this guide, since I'm about to get another case.

Finally, I UNDERSTAND. ME SMART. :roll:

 

[Rubycon]

Originally posted by: Navid

1- You used the adhesive on the backplate, by removing the peel-off, to attach your backplate to your motherboard. This is not a good idea since if you ever want to remove the backplate, you will be up for a shock.

Guys hehe. Must not have hair dryers. Yes it does stick really well to the board. A decent hair dryer OR a heat gun (careful though) will heat it up sufficiently to pry it off without doing any damage to the pcb! I've never had a problem and have removed them at least half a dozen times like this.

 

[Navid]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: Navid

1- You used the adhesive on the backplate, by removing the peel-off, to attach your backplate to your motherboard. This is not a good idea since if you ever want to remove the backplate, you will be up for a shock.

Guys hehe. Must not have hair dryers.

Wrong conclusion.
I don't use a hair dryer, for this purpose, because it could heat up solder on the motherboard.

I know I can drop a motherboard from a height of 1 foot, or may be even more, to the floor and 99.99% nothing is going to happen to it. But, I still won't drop it. Even if it could help accomplish an objective, I would still use an alternative if I could.

 

[Rubycon]

Originally posted by: Navid

Wrong conclusion.
I don't use a hair dryer, for this purpose, because it could heat up solder on the motherboard.

I know I can drop a motherboard from a height of 1 foot, or may be even more, to the floor and 99.99% nothing is going to happen to it. But, I still won't drop it. Even if it could help accomplish an objective, I would still use an alternative if I could.

Comparing dropping to applying heat???!

No way a hair dryer is going to cause ANY kind of damage to soldering. Ever felt the back of the board around the socket area with a B3 stepping Quad at 1.5V when stressed? I have - it's hard to land a finger for more than a second AND the Kata thermometer indicated 80 degrees centigrade. It was not nearly that hot to weaken the bond when removing it.

Now if you used permatex or similar that would be a different story. (but it could still be extricated with the proper tools and experience.)

 

[Navid]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: Navid

Wrong conclusion.
I don't use a hair dryer, for this purpose, because it could heat up solder on the motherboard.

I know I can drop a motherboard from a height of 1 foot, or may be even more, to the floor and 99.99% nothing is going to happen to it. But, I still won't drop it. Even if it could help accomplish an objective, I would still use an alternative if I could.

Comparing dropping to applying heat???!

Guilty as charged.

No way a hair dryer is going to cause ANY kind of damage to soldering.

I take your word for it. Just not my preferred method.

 

[WoodButcher]

Originally posted by: Rubycon
Guys hehe. Must not have hair dryers. Yes it does stick really well to the board. A decent hair dryer OR a heat gun (careful though) will heat it up sufficiently to pry it off without doing any damage to the pcb! I've never had a problem and have removed them at least half a dozen times like this.

Damn Ruby! Beat me with a stick,,,, so simple I never thought about it. I haven't caused damage to a board removing these things and have used different adhesives, even the rubber tape, can't think if the name now but it is uncured rubber stuck like a big dog but I couldn't see the forest cause all the damn trees blocked my view! Thanks, your a doll.

 

[PlanetX]

So, I don't have to use the sticky adhesive pads at all, I can just leave them on without peeling? I'm about to receive an Ultima 90 through the post in a couple of days and I would prefer not to stick anything to my lovely P5Q-E.