Bicycle - replacing a pedal

[Muse]

Right pedal goes bad... again, on my road bike. So, I'm shopping on Amazon and people are saying if you don't have a one piece crank your pedal is very probably 9/16, not 1/2. I order a 9/16. A few minutes later I find the left pedal of the set and measure the diameter where it threads into the crank arm and it measures 1/2". I call Amazon and they switch the order to a 1/2" pedal. I get the pair over the weekend and goddamn, the 1/2" pedal diameter is 1/16 less than the pedal I thought was 1/2!!!

Sigh... I'm going to have to call Amazon and order a 9/16" I guess (or else work a deal with a local shop, maybe, maybe Amazon will link me to a mailing label, don't know)..

Why was I bamboozled? How are you supposed to measure? I see no way the left one measures 9/16" !

 

[KMc]

9/16" is not the spindle diameter, it is the thread diameter, measured on the outside of the threads on the actual pedal.

 

[Muse]

9/16" is not the spindle diameter, it is the thread diameter, measured on the outside of the threads on the actual pedal.

Doh! Um, how do I determine which I have (measuring on the left pedal I have sitting around from the pair that's on the bike now?).

I don't comprehend your explanation. :'(

 

[tracerbullet]

Do you have a hardware store close? You might be able to compare it to bolts in one of the aisles?

What KMc is saying is that if you look at the pedal threads, there are peaks and valleys, you have to measure the correct part.

Also depending on the bike they might be metric and neither 9/16" or 1/2"

 

[tracerbullet]

Also - a local bike shop should be able to tell you what's up and potentially sell you a pedal / pedals as well. May cost a little more but sometimes it's worth it (i.e. when you order online, wait for it, it's wrong, you have to do some research, and then make a new order crossing your fingers you don't have to go through it all a 3rd time).

 

[Muse]

Do you have a hardware store close? You might be able to compare it to bolts in one of the aisles?

What KMc is saying is that if you look at the pedal threads, there are peaks and valleys, you have to measure the correct part.

Also depending on the bike they might be metric and neither 9/16" or 1/2"

It's a Miata, Japanese mid-level bike, not fancy, not crap. It has triple butted frame, not fancy components, I bought it slightly used in 1998.

There are hardware stores close and there's also a bike shop I like. The owner (only guy working there) is good, I had him do a bunch of stuff two years ago, but that's the only time I've had anyone work on any of my bikes, I have always done my own work in the past, have a bunch of parts, but looking I see I don't have another right pedal, just the matching left pedal. I could take it to that guy, even ask him if he'll accept the pedals I just received as part compensation. He's a really cool guy, I kind of think he'd go for that. Then again, if he's concerned it would screw up his books he may not go for that.

Wrong size (1/2") pedals I received yesterday

 

[JulesMaximus]

What crank set does it have?

I think most road bike cranksets will take 9/16 pedals.

 

[theeedude]

Don't buy plastic junk pedals.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Do you have a hardware store close? You might be able to compare it to bolts in one of the aisles?

What KMc is saying is that if you look at the pedal threads, there are peaks and valleys, you have to measure the correct part.

Also depending on the bike they might be metric and neither 9/16" or 1/2"

All 3 piece cranksets will be 9/16" thread. Only cheap one piece American cranksets are 1/2" thread (this is the crap you find on department store bikes).

One piece crankset.

3 piece crankset (this picture does not show the bottom bracket which would be the third piece). The advantages of a 3 piece crankset are lighter weight and they are more rigid.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Don't buy plastic junk pedals.

:thumbsup: Agreed, those plastic pedals are garbage.

Personally, I'd get some SPD pedals or the Shimano SPD SL road pedals and go clipless but then you'd have to buy shoes and learn how to clip in and out.

OP your bike would have had something like this on it originally.

Here is a place that sells a new version of those vintage style pedals.

 

[Muse]

:thumbsup: Agreed, those plastic pedals are garbage.

Personally, I'd get some SPD pedals or the Shimano SPD SL road pedals and go clipless but then you'd have to buy shoes and learn how to clip in and out.

OP your bike would have had something like this on it originally.

Here is a place that sells a new version of those vintage style pedals.

Yeah, that looks pretty good to me.

My Miata road bike has the 3 piece cranks, so it's almost certainly 9/16" pedals. I still don't understand what they are measuring to get "9/16." What is that?

 

[KMc]

Doh! Um, how do I determine which I have (measuring on the left pedal I have sitting around from the pair that's on the bike now?).

I don't comprehend your explanation. :'(

Sorry for the delayed response. If you take the original pedal and measure the diameter on the outside of the threads, it should be 9/16", like the left pedal in the below picture (ignore the pedal on the right).

 

[LTC8K6]

Yeah, that looks pretty good to me.

My Miata road bike has the 3 piece cranks, so it's almost certainly 9/16" pedals. I still don't understand what they are measuring to get "9/16." What is that?

Don't over complicate it.

For 9/16-20 threads, the threaded shaft should be 9/16" or .562".

Just as the threaded part of a 5/16-18 bolt measures 5/16" or .312"

Don't worry about the lands and grooves, just the overall diameter.

 

[Muse]

Sigh, I blew it when I measured it and decided it was 1/2". Measuring now from the outer ridges of the threads it is 9/16".

I don't want clipless, I don't ride enough. I used to ride the hills daily but gave that up due to sporadic knee issues a few years ago. Now I just ride around town when I can't skate my quads. I am used to toe clips with leather straps, have never ridden clipless.

I figure decent pedals are the best option now (that will accept my toe clips), I've worn out two plastic right pedals since 1998. I figure a pedal should last longer than that. I suppose there's some chance I could rebuild that clicky pedal, but the races are probably nasty pitted by now, I've been riding this clicky thing for I guess months now. Maybe that metal pair is a good option for me now.

 

[Brian Stirling]

Yeah, a serious rider will want to go clipless, but for puttering around and particularly on hills clipless can be a bit dangerous so a regular old flat pedal is really the best option.

I busted my hip up real bad in mid June when riding my Trex Madone with Shimano SPD Ultegra pedals. Made a turn on a cycling path and the front tire hung up on the uneven concrete joint and went down hard on my left hip -- was bed ridden for 6 weeks and on crutches for another 6 weeks. I'm just now beginning to do longer walks of 6-9 miles as I build myself back up. The small delay in getting my left foot off the pedal prevented me from being able to slow my fall so being clipless was not good in this case.


Brian

 

[JulesMaximus]

Sigh, I blew it when I measured it and decided it was 1/2". Measuring now from the outer ridges of the threads it is 9/16".

I don't want clipless, I don't ride enough. I used to ride the hills daily but gave that up due to sporadic knee issues a few years ago. Now I just ride around town when I can't skate my quads. I am used to toe clips with leather straps, have never ridden clipless.

I figure decent pedals are the best option now (that will accept my toe clips), I've worn out two plastic right pedals since 1998. I figure a pedal should last longer than that. I suppose there's some chance I could rebuild that clicky pedal, but the races are probably nasty pitted by now, I've been riding this clicky thing for I guess months now. Maybe that metal pair is a good option for me now.

The key to riding hills is to spin at a fast enough pace that you aren't grinding it out, killing your knees. As for clipless, I love them and would never go back. I even have them on my MTB. If you decide to get clipless pedals get something with some float and get them setup correctly so that the ball of your foot is over the spindle and your foot is aligned properly with a little float on either side so you have some movement in your heel before you start to unclip.

I've always setup my clipless pedals myself, it isn't hard to do and it has never caused me any pain (other than falling over-which I've done a few times).

But hey, if you like platform pedals you can't go wrong with those pedals I linked. I also noticed that they sell them on Amazon and it looks like they would accept toe clips as well.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Yeah, a serious rider will want to go clipless, but for puttering around and particularly on hills clipless can be a bit dangerous so a regular old flat pedal is really the best option.

I busted my hip up real bad in mid June when riding my Trex Madone with Shimano SPD Ultegra pedals. Made a turn on a cycling path and the front tire hung up on the uneven concrete joint and went down hard on my left hip -- was bed ridden for 6 weeks and on crutches for another 6 weeks. I'm just now beginning to do longer walks of 6-9 miles as I build myself back up. The small delay in getting my left foot off the pedal prevented me from being able to slow my fall so being clipless was not good in this case.

Brian

You may have gone down regardless of the pedals. It happens really fast sometimes.

 

[Muse]

Yeah, a serious rider will want to go clipless, but for puttering around and particularly on hills clipless can be a bit dangerous so a regular old flat pedal is really the best option.

I busted my hip up real bad in mid June when riding my Trex Madone with Shimano SPD Ultegra pedals. Made a turn on a cycling path and the front tire hung up on the uneven concrete joint and went down hard on my left hip -- was bed ridden for 6 weeks and on crutches for another 6 weeks. I'm just now beginning to do longer walks of 6-9 miles as I build myself back up. The small delay in getting my left foot off the pedal prevented me from being able to slow my fall so being clipless was not good in this case.


Brian

Even in toe clips I sometimes get nervous that I won't be able to get my foot out with alacrity. I did take a fall from a basically stationary position one day in the crowded area in front of my favorite food-mart, trying to avoid a person. I fell on my left hip, the bike on top of me. The consequences were not terrible. A lot of black and blue for the most part, IIRC maybe a couple of years ago.

Amazon says they'll credit me for the 1/2" pedals, no need to return them. I'm about to order the MKS Sylvan Road Bicycle Pedals from Amazon, I think they are the same as the MKS Sylvan Road Pedal from Art's.

 

[KMc]

Here is the combo I put on my wife's bike that is better than the pedal by itself, but simpler than clipless or full toe clips and straps:

This pedal:
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_520498_-1___205000
and these:
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175294_-1___

Less than $30 all-in.

 

[herm0016]

Here is the combo I put on my wife's bike that is better than the pedal by itself, but simpler than clipless or full toe clips and straps:

This pedal:
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_520498_-1___205000
and these:
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175294_-1___

Less than $30 all-in.

those look nice, can you fit a good size shoe in them? or just a bike shoe? I hate the pedals on my road bike but use it for running around town and dont want to go clipless, have clipless on my MT.

 

[KMc]

those look nice, can you fit a good size shoe in them? or just a bike shoe? I hate the pedals on my road bike but use it for running around town and dont want to go clipless, have clipless on my MT.

She just wears a regular athletic shoe. Even though I use clipless pedals on all my road bikes, I have these on an old MTB that I use for riding around town and they work great.

 

[Brian Stirling]

You may have gone down regardless of the pedals. It happens really fast sometimes.

I've gone back to the spot where I fell and inspected the concrete. As they do the concrete is placed in rectangular blocks and the one of the blocks was about 1.5 inch higher than the other so as I was in a turn and the step in height prevented the front tire from properly tracking for the turn it reached a point were the front tire skidded out. I was on the ground in about 10^-15 seconds. So, yes, I was going down no matter what. If I'd been riding with platform pedals I might (MIGHT) have been able to blunt the fall but...

I knew within seconds of hitting the concrete on my left hip that I was in deep shit. At this point I was 1.2 miles from home and it took me over 2 hours to hobble back using the bike as a crutch. Talk about exhausted!

I've busted collar bones twice riding bicycles and once more on a motorcross bike.


Brian

 

[Brian Stirling]

Even in toe clips I sometimes get nervous that I won't be able to get my foot out with alacrity. I did take a fall from a basically stationary position one day in the crowded area in front of my favorite food-mart, trying to avoid a person. I fell on my left hip, the bike on top of me. The consequences were not terrible. A lot of black and blue for the most part, IIRC maybe a couple of years ago.

Amazon says they'll credit me for the 1/2" pedals, no need to return them. I'm about to order the MKS Sylvan Road Bicycle Pedals from Amazon, I think they are the same as the MKS Sylvan Road Pedal from Art's.

My worst 'black and blue' moment came at the end of a 35-40 mile ride. I was sitting up with hands off the handlebar and the seatpost connection to the seat broke and I went backwards and landed on my asscrack right on the rear tire. It bent the wheel nearly in half and I was black and blue over my entire ass -- that first couple minutes was insanely painful, but thankfully I wasn't impaled by the seatpost.


Brian

 

[JulesMaximus]

I've gone back to the spot where I fell and inspected the concrete. As they do the concrete is placed in rectangular blocks and the one of the blocks was about 1.5 inch higher than the other so as I was in a turn and the step in height prevented the front tire from properly tracking for the turn it reached a point were the front tire skidded out. I was on the ground in about 10^-15 seconds. So, yes, I was going down no matter what. If I'd been riding with platform pedals I might (MIGHT) have been able to blunt the fall but...

I knew within seconds of hitting the concrete on my left hip that I was in deep shit. At this point I was 1.2 miles from home and it took me over 2 hours to hobble back using the bike as a crutch. Talk about exhausted!

I've busted collar bones twice riding bicycles and once more on a motorcross bike.


Brian

Ouch. That sucks man. I've bruised ribs falling on my mtb (that hurt for weeks) but other than that and some minor road rash I really haven't ever seriously injured myself on a bicycle or motorcycle (knock wood).

 

[Muse]

I've gone back to the spot where I fell and inspected the concrete. As they do the concrete is placed in rectangular blocks and the one of the blocks was about 1.5 inch higher than the other so as I was in a turn and the step in height prevented the front tire from properly tracking for the turn it reached a point were the front tire skidded out. I was on the ground in about 10^-15 seconds. So, yes, I was going down no matter what. If I'd been riding with platform pedals I might (MIGHT) have been able to blunt the fall but...

I knew within seconds of hitting the concrete on my left hip that I was in deep shit. At this point I was 1.2 miles from home and it took me over 2 hours to hobble back using the bike as a crutch. Talk about exhausted!

I've busted collar bones twice riding bicycles and once more on a motorcross bike.


Brian

Reminds me of riding near train tracks. Those can throw you.

I was in not familiar territory in downtown Oakland around 4-5 years back and instead of riding the street (it was probably one way and I was going the other way), I got up on the sidewalk. I don't ride sidewalks as a habit, almost never. I was distracted by passing a couple of people and didn't notice that one of those concrete rectangular blocks that cover utility meters hadn't been set in its slot and was sticking up a few inches on one edge. I rode straight into that raised edge and was flipped up in the air, crashing on the ground in a heap, likely the bike on top of me. No broken bones, but I had a bad hematoma in my left forearm that took a while to subside. My MD brother predicted correctly that the pain might stay with me indefinitely (after some years it finally basically disappeared) but that the condition was not in any way serious and that there was nothing I could do about it in any case.

Worst bicycle accident story I have heard was one I read about as the feature story in the East Bay Express many years ago. It was written by the wife of the guy who had the accident. He was a veteran extremely dedicated bicyclist who daily took 50+ mile rides. I'm sure he was helmeted. He was coming off Grizzly Peak Blvd. turning left onto Claremont Ave., to make the descent to Oakland, IIRC, on a ride he'd done probably 100s of times and he hit a gravel patch on the road (probably there was gravel beyond what he'd normally expect for some reason on that day), and he took a spill that flipped him over and he landed in such a way that his neck snapped and he was from that point forward a basically helpless quadriplegic. Just reading the story was harrowing and memorable!