Best car for 8k, newbie driver?

[max347]

If you sell the impala, shoot me pics, details, and price please!

 

[Woosta]

Not sure why you'd want it, it has all sorts of problems.

 

[NutBucket]

For someone mechanically inclined its cheap transport. Parts are cheap to boot.

 

[mvbighead]

Not sure why you'd want it, it has all sorts of problems.

This biggest thing you had to mention was an antifreeze leak. That's quite possibly a hose with a lose connection, or simply an aged hose that needs to be replaced. I had that happen on a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The hose burst, and once replaced, all was dandy.

Then you suggested a bunch of other little problems.

Listen, this song and dance of my car is about to blow up is kinda overplayed. It's basically someone justifying buying a new car. If you want to upgrade, do it. But your existing car is likely fine from most standpoints, and just needs a GOOD mechanic to work out a few issues for you. If you're dropping $1000 per mechanic visit, something is wrong with the mechanic. Most issues I've had with my cars have been well less than $1000, and most under $500. And the ones that haven't were jobs that weren't going to be less than $1000 (transmission, differential rebuild, etc.).

Long story short, if I pay $1000 for a mechanic visit, I KNOW what they did, and why it had to cost that much.

There is the occasional heater core, rack and pinion replacement, or whatever, but by and large most repairs are a $200-500 ticket.

I strongly suggest you get a second opinion on your car. Hell, my boss took his truck to a dealer to get a list of what needed to be fixed. Was a $100-$200 service charge, with no requirement to have any of the work done. It'd be worth your time to do that, IMO.

But again, if you want to buy a new car, just do it. You don't need to use your car as an excuse for it. It's fine if that's what you want to do. But just keep in mind that any less than new car is going to have an issue or two that needs fixing.

 

[power_hour]

This biggest thing you had to mention was an antifreeze leak. That's quite possibly a hose with a lose connection, or simply an aged hose that needs to be replaced. I had that happen on a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The hose burst, and once replaced, all was dandy.

Then you suggested a bunch of other little problems.

Listen, this song and dance of my car is about to blow up is kinda overplayed. It's basically someone justifying buying a new car. If you want to upgrade, do it. But your existing car is likely fine from most standpoints, and just needs a GOOD mechanic to work out a few issues for you. If you're dropping $1000 per mechanic visit, something is wrong with the mechanic. Most issues I've had with my cars have been well less than $1000, and most under $500. And the ones that haven't were jobs that weren't going to be less than $1000 (transmission, differential rebuild, etc.).

Long story short, if I pay $1000 for a mechanic visit, I KNOW what they did, and why it had to cost that much.

There is the occasional heater core, rack and pinion replacement, or whatever, but by and large most repairs are a $200-500 ticket.

I strongly suggest you get a second opinion on your car. Hell, my boss took his truck to a dealer to get a list of what needed to be fixed. Was a $100-$200 service charge, with no requirement to have any of the work done. It'd be worth your time to do that, IMO.

But again, if you want to buy a new car, just do it. You don't need to use your car as an excuse for it. It's fine if that's what you want to do. But just keep in mind that any less than new car is going to have an issue or two that needs fixing.

Burn his reply in your head and then go find a competent mechanic. Regardless of what you do, you will need one.

 

[tfinch2]

You are probably not going to get a TSX in your price range unless it is an 04 with a ton of miles. I just traded my 07 in for $13.5k.

Oh and don't get nav. The screen is incredibly dim which makes it difficult to see during the day, and unless you have an exact and dress the search sucks.

 

[hans007]

You are probably not going to get a TSX in your price range unless it is an 04 with a ton of miles. I just traded my 07 in for $13.5k.

Oh and don't get nav. The screen is incredibly dim which makes it difficult to see during the day, and unless you have an exact and dress the search sucks.

yeah its tough to get a TSX for under 8k, but i think he could get an 04 with say 120k miles on it probably.

since you say you want a coupe, i think you could get an 05 RSX maybe 06. the interior is a lot less nice than a TSX though. but it is what it is. plus at least in Los angeles, the vast majority of used RSXes seem to have all sorts of ricer rocket mods and after market crap on them so not sure about the quality there.


my dad actually just sold my brothers 2005 TC. he is currently disabled so he couldnt drive it. and he got $8500 for it. granted it had a salvaged title, but it also only had 26k miles on it so i figure it about evens out. i had driven it for a month at one point and i think its a pretty nice car for what it is, handled really well honestly and had great "feel" for a car, but noisier than an RSX though and the interior is significantly down rate compared to an RSX. one positive though is the TC has a standard double din radio so its pretty easy to make the car "modernish" electronics wise.

 

[Woosta]

My pick from a year ago was a Kia Optima.

TSX became my #1 pick in the time since.

So we went to a dealership to look at the TSX...

and parked right next to the TSX was the Optima...

We drove the TSX and the Optima.

Yes, the TSX is more solid, better built, but it does NOT HAVE a 10 year drivetrain warranty, or 5 year basic/rust warranty and 5 year roadside assistance.

The Optima drives just as good as the TSX imo, this is in another world compared to what I have and other cars I've driven since.

So, I got the KIA Optima 2011 EX with 23k miles which we started negotiating at 20 down to 17.2.

It has dual exhaust pipes and 18' tires.

I downpayed around half and am gonna pay the rest off in 13-15 months.

I'm happy, worry-free, peace of mind.

With automatic cars even new ones the transmission could blow anytime, I am set with the KIA warranty.

 

[ThatsABigOne]

Congrats on your purchase. I like optimas. I hope it serves you well for many years to come! I was going to suggest Acura RL, around 2002, as they are bulletproof.

 

[dbk]

that's a nice color.. congrats!

 

[Jimzz]

My pick from a year ago was a Kia Optima.

TSX became my #1 pick in the time since.

So we went to a dealership to look at the TSX...

and parked right next to the TSX was the Optima...

We drove the TSX and the Optima.

Yes, the TSX is more solid, better built, but it does NOT HAVE a 10 year drivetrain warranty, or 5 year basic/rust warranty and 5 year roadside assistance.

The Optima drives just as good as the TSX imo, this is in another world compared to what I have and other cars I've driven since.

So, I got the KIA Optima 2011 EX with 23k miles which we started negotiating at 20 down to 17.2.



It has dual exhaust pipes and 18' tires.

I downpayed around half and am gonna pay the rest off in 13-15 months.

I'm happy, worry-free, peace of mind.

With automatic cars even new ones the transmission could blow anytime, I am set with the KIA warranty.

Congrats. Those are pretty nice cars.

Just make sure to read the fine print and keep up with maintaince. Kia is pretty good about its warrantys but any make will void it if not taken care of.

 

[Jimzz]

Currently driving an inherited Chevy Impala LS 2001 (3.8L, 200hp) gas guzzler. It has many issues, had to spend $3k repairing it last year, so I want to buy a new car in 1-2 months.

Maybe this was asked but how did you spend $3000 repairing a 3.8L based Impala? They are boring cars but very reliable and pretty strong.

Unless the previous owner did not take car of it. In that case that would affect any car.

I didn't have a choice, I needed something to drive and it wasn't 3k on 1 job, it was more like 1k, then thought everything was fixed but no, then another job - 1k again, shit broke again, 1k again, etc.

It needs more repairing now. I'm not dealing with that shit again. Not spending a fucking penny more.

You need to find a better mechanic. I use to be a ASE mechanic and still do work on the side in NoVA. If you need a 2nd opinion send me a PM. Hopefully you will not need any on the new car anytime soon.

 

[CraigRT]

As soon as I saw the pic of that white TSX that is my answer to you. I love those cars, they are so good looking. Honda reliability also. I want one as my next car actually.

 

[NutBucket]

Hate to break it to you but the the full powertrain warranty only applies to the original owner. Your powertrain coverage is 6years/60k miles, same as the bumper to bumper warranty.

http://www.kia.com/us/content/media/en/manuals/2011_warranty.pdf

 

[Arkaign]

Complain about domestic reliability and then buy a Kia? Hehehe.

Well I like the Optima anyway.

 

[Woosta]

Hate to break it to you but the the full powertrain warranty only applies to the original owner. Your powertrain coverage is 6years/60k miles, same as the bumper to bumper warranty.

http://www.kia.com/us/content/media/en/manuals/2011_warranty.pdf

Yeah, I actually double checked when I typed it up and found out. I actually knew about this pre-purchase but overlooked it. I only plan to keep this for 2-3 years and my credit will be much better and my next purchase will be a much better card, perhaps a Lexus IS or something.

 

[Woosta]

Congrats on your purchase. I like optimas. I hope it serves you well for many years to come! I was going to suggest Acura RL, around 2002, as they are bulletproof.

I'm sure, but that's a gas guzzler right there.

 

[Topweasel]

I'm sure, but that's a gas guzzler right there.

I have to ask. What is your definition of a gas guzzler and what is your definition on one that is not? You have used that term nearly a dozen times but it doesn't seem like you have a realistic idea of your fuel usage.

What kind of driving patterns do you have? What kind of MPG are you getting in your current car (not the KIA).

Most modern V6's while sacrificing a little bit more in city if you tend to start from stop a little harder really aren't that much worse than a I4. Gas Guzzlers in my day were the types of cars that you would joke that you had to measure it in GPM. Like an old Escalade that would get 9-12.

 

[Woosta]

^ a gas guzzler is a 2003 Acura RL.

 

[NutBucket]

Gas guzzler compared to what? Should easily get 20mpg.

 

[Topweasel]

^ a gas guzzler is a 2003 Acura RL.

No I am asking for a value? Where do you draw the line? I mean the Kia you got is only 4-5 city better then the RL and you called your MC which is only 2 MPG worse city a Gas Guzzler. Highway the MC was rated at 29. How could a car getting ~30 HWY be a gas guzzler? If you drive it hard a 4 can be a little bit more eco friendly, but trust me I could get a 2.0L I4 NA that was rated 34 HWY down to 24. City you play hard and it doesn't matter what the capacity or cylinders.

That RL was obvious built for comfortable city driving without a real cruise gear. Due to the respectable if low city with such a horrible HWY.

Have you actually done the numbers on your yearly miles to actually figure out what the difference money wise is? Heck with as small a difference between the MC and the Kia. I would be surprised to see more than a $20 difference in monthly gas costs.

 

[kitatech]

Best car for 8k??? I thought OP wanted a car for $8k....if it's as good a runner as my $6,500 Camry he'll be happy....I like the Optima too, so good luck OP

 

[Woosta]

FYI, the person who I sold the Impala to spent over $2k in repairs in the last 3 months and there are still outstanding issues with the car. Some new issue arises every month. I notified the person that such issues would exist and to not buy the car but they wanted to anyway.

 

[mvbighead]

FYI, the person who I sold the Impala to spent over $2k in repairs in the last 3 months and there are still outstanding issues with the car. Some new issue arises every month. I notified the person that such issues would exist and to not buy the car but they wanted to anyway.

Lol. You're still not saying what they're getting fixed on the thing.

How the hell does anyone spend $2000 on repairs that don't involve the transmission, complete engine rebuild, or similar? There is only so much that can go wrong.

Specifics would mean a lot here. I just don't see how spending a total of $5k (yours and the buyers spending included here) is even remotely possible on such a car.

Alternator? $100ish + labor = roughly $200

Water pump? $100ish + labor = roughly $200

Battery? $80ish, generally installed free

Tires? $500 for a decent set, maybe $600 installed.

Brakes all the way around? $300-400.

Radiator? Maybe a few hundred.

Transmission? $1500.

Engine? Drop in replacement is probably $1000-1500 as they're everywhere.

Specifics or GTFO. I think your and his mechanic knows a sucker when they see one. Something really does not add up here.

 

[Topweasel]

The only time any repair on the POS's I have driven in the past ever worked their way up to even 1k was after an accident. I complete blew a transmission on 99 V6 Stratus and even that was only 1800 (I kind of forced the issue to take advantage of the extended warranty I purchased).

Sorry I feel 90& of this is BS or just a complete lack of understanding on cars in general. I mean 5k in a year in repairs on simple car like an MC and 28 MPG being a gas guzzler, I can't wrap my head around it.