At what screen size does a projector become cost effective?

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slag

Lifer
Dec 14, 2000
10,473
81
101
I'm getting ready to make a screen for the projector. My projected image is 147 inches diagonal at 13 feet throw. I have read to make the screen 4 inches larger on each side and use a black border, probably some sort of felt over the outer 4 inches of this screen. That would make my total diagonal 165 inches, 81 inches tall by 144 inches wide. The blackout cloth I'm looking at on amazon.com is 110x200 so it would work with some left over to help stretch and attach to the wood frame I'll build. Does this sound correct, or what should I be doing instead?
 

SLU Aequitas

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2007
1,252
26
91
I'm getting ready to make a screen for the projector. My projected image is 147 inches diagonal at 13 feet throw. I have read to make the screen 4 inches larger on each side and use a black border, probably some sort of felt over the outer 4 inches of this screen. That would make my total diagonal 165 inches, 81 inches tall by 144 inches wide. The blackout cloth I'm looking at on amazon.com is 110x200 so it would work with some left over to help stretch and attach to the wood frame I'll build. Does this sound correct, or what should I be doing instead?

Sounds right. Black velvet/cloth will help capture any overshoot.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,667
6,552
126
yeah the white ceilings will be okay, as mentioned the contrast just won't be as great but it's not even close to "unwatchable" or anything like that, so definitely don't let that detract you.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,667
6,552
126
I'm getting ready to make a screen for the projector. My projected image is 147 inches diagonal at 13 feet throw. I have read to make the screen 4 inches larger on each side and use a black border, probably some sort of felt over the outer 4 inches of this screen. That would make my total diagonal 165 inches, 81 inches tall by 144 inches wide. The blackout cloth I'm looking at on amazon.com is 110x200 so it would work with some left over to help stretch and attach to the wood frame I'll build. Does this sound correct, or what should I be doing instead?

yeah my projector has a little spillage but you can't even see it because the black velvet border absorbs nearly all of the light. you can see it if you're looking for it and like focusing on that area, and the overflow is light colored. but in normal viewings you won't notice it at all.

i believe my border is like 2.5 inches around.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
91
Are you guys using Redmere HDMI cables or just regular ones? It seems like with a long run it might be a good idea to get the Redmere cables.
 

SLU Aequitas

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2007
1,252
26
91
How long is the run again? 20ft + probably better with redmere, >30 you're likely looking at active solutions. I've got 75ft so I'm using cat 6.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
91
I was planning on getting 40 foot cables to give myself a little wiggle room. I figure I need at least the following:

- 9 feet from wall to projector
- 8 feet up the wall
- 10 feet to the equipment

So perhaps 40 feet is overkill, but better too much than not enough I suppose.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
91
Hmm ... I just had another idea that might make more sense.

I actually have a closet behind this room that has access to the ceiling (the closet has no ceiling and butts up to the finished room). Maybe I can mount a shelf in there and put all my equipment on that and just run short (10 feet or less) cables to the projector? I'm not sure how I would control everything, maybe with a Harmony Smart Hub.

I would just have to figure the Xbox out. That will still need some sort of line-of-sight I think.

It sure would be nice to not have to fish a bunch of 40 foot cables over the ceiling and down the walls if I don't have to.
 
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sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
100,754
18,045
126
Hmm ... I just had another idea that might make more sense.

I actually have a closet behind this room that has access to the ceiling (the closet has no ceiling and butts up to the finished room). Maybe I can mount a shelf in there and put all my equipment on that and just run short (10 feet or less) cables to the projector? I'm not sure how I would control everything, maybe with a Harmony Smart Hub.

I would just have to figure the Xbox out. That will still need some sort of line-of-sight I think.

I sure would be nice to not have to fish a bunch of 40 foot cables over the ceiling and down the walls if I don't have to.

ir repeater would work. Equipment at the back is perfect, no distracting LEDs near the screen.

you may need to cobble together a kinect extension.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,667
6,552
126
i have all my components in a closet that is behind and to the left of my seating area. i use roomie remote to control it from my phone so i don't have to point it at anything. its the double doors next to the staircase.

http://i.imgur.com/qousc7m.jpg

i will say though, i can't leave that closet door shut while watching a movie. it will get too hot in there. i always leave it open a little bit for this reason. i left it shut when i first hooked everything up to mask a much sound as possible, but holy shit when i opened that door it was HOT in there after the flick was over.

just something to keep in mind.

and yeah, i sold my kinect for my xbox one because i couldn't use it without an extension cable, and MS didn't ever feel like making one. i also didn't really care for kinect in general.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
100,754
18,045
126
i have all my components in a closet that is behind and to the left of my seating area. i use roomie remote to control it from my phone so i don't have to point it at anything. its the double doors next to the staircase.

http://i.imgur.com/qousc7m.jpg

i will say though, i can't leave that closet door shut while watching a movie. it will get too hot in there. i always leave it open a little bit for this reason. i left it shut when i first hooked everything up to mask a much sound as possible, but holy shit when i opened that door it was HOT in there after the flick was over.

just something to keep in mind.

and yeah, i sold my kinect for my xbox one because i couldn't use it without an extension cable, and MS didn't ever feel like making one. i also didn't really care for kinect in general.

you need to vent the closet to somewhere. even if you are pulling air out of the closet into ceiling, it would be better than doing nothing.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,667
6,552
126
you need to vent the closet to somewhere. even if you are pulling air out of the closet into ceiling, it would be better than doing nothing.

yeah i just leave the door open a bit, problem solved heh.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
91
This closet is probably a little bigger than average, I would say 3-4 feet wide and probably six feet deep. I guess "small storage room" is a better name for it. Keeping the door open isn't an issue because it opens right into my office. I'm not sure why this never registered before. Seems like the easiest solution.
 
Jun 18, 2000
11,212
778
126
I'm getting ready to make a screen for the projector. My projected image is 147 inches diagonal at 13 feet throw. I have read to make the screen 4 inches larger on each side and use a black border, probably some sort of felt over the outer 4 inches of this screen. That would make my total diagonal 165 inches, 81 inches tall by 144 inches wide. The blackout cloth I'm looking at on amazon.com is 110x200 so it would work with some left over to help stretch and attach to the wood frame I'll build. Does this sound correct, or what should I be doing instead?

Yes, adding a border is a good idea. But make sure your frame is the right dimensions. It shouldn't be 16:9 if you want a consistent 4" border on all sides. You said the screen will be 81x144, but I don't know if that includes the 4" border.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
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So let me get your opinion on something.

I have sort of decided that I like the Epson projectors. I was originally looking at the 2040 because it seems to have a really good feature to price ratio. The only problem is that is has a negative throw offset and relatively short horizontal throw and no horizontal or vertical adjustment. In my 15 foot deep room that means the projector would be mounted 4-5 feet in front of the seating area and also hanging down about 12" from the ceiling. It wouldn't physically block the screen but the projector would be visible when watching a movie/TV because it has to be physically mounted to the front.

I could however get a refurbished 3500 which is a completely different beast. The projector has a long throw as well as considerable horizontal and vertical shift. I could actually mount that projector on a shelf attached to the back wall rather than needing to use any type of ceiling mount. However, the shelf would be pretty much right over the seating area (maybe just a tick behind if I move the couch out from the wall a foot or so). The price of this (better) projector is about the same as the cheaper 2040 + decent ceiling mount.

Is it better to have the projector above/behind as opposed to in front? Would it be too annoying to have the projector almost directly overhead or is that normal?

Sorry for all the questions, I tend to go overboard analyzing this stuff.
 

SLU Aequitas

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2007
1,252
26
91
I would have it behind; I would consider it annoying to have it anywhere near my FOV while watching.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
91
I would have it behind; I would consider it annoying to have it anywhere near my FOV while watching.

yeah i've never had one in my FOV, but i think that would be annoying/distracting.

That is sort of what I am thinking as well. I just wonder if having it almost directly overhead, albeit not seen because it will be on a shelf, will be annoying as well. I think it is still a better option and it also gets me into a better projector for almost the same end cost.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,667
6,552
126
just hand a dummy piece of cardboard or something from your ceiling that would be exactly where the projector would be, and if it is in your peripheral, then don't do it. otherwise go for it.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
91
just hand a dummy piece of cardboard or something from your ceiling that would be exactly where the projector would be, and if it is in your peripheral, then don't do it. otherwise go for it.

I actually did that last night! The projector doesn't block the view but it will be visible for sure. I think I'm going to get the slightly more expensive one that mounts on the back wall. Once I figure the cost of a decent ceiling mount in the costs become close to the same. It seems like the best choice.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
91
So I ended up ordering a Epson 3500 projector yesterday. It should be delivered sometime this week, but it will still be a bit until I can actually use it. I have a feeling I will be finding a nice wall to use to test things out :)
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
100,754
18,045
126
So I ended up ordering a Epson 3500 projector yesterday. It should be delivered sometime this week, but it will still be a bit until I can actually use it. I have a feeling I will be finding a nice wall to use to test things out :)

Pro sport :whiste:
 

SLU Aequitas

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2007
1,252
26
91
So I ended up ordering a Epson 3500 projector yesterday. It should be delivered sometime this week, but it will still be a bit until I can actually use it. I have a feeling I will be finding a nice wall to use to test things out :)
Don't do it bro! Cardinal rule when theatre building, don't break out the projector unless you're done. Once it's out work crawls to a stand still.

My Sony VPL-40ES is sitting in its box after dry fitting it to its universal ceiling mount. I almost succumbed to the dark side! Luckily I didn't finish my keystones for the HDBase-T until tonight :p
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
91
Don't do it bro! Cardinal rule when theatre building, don't break out the projector unless you're done. Once it's out work crawls to a stand still.

My Sony VPL-40ES is sitting in its box after dry fitting it to its universal ceiling mount. I almost succumbed to the dark side! Luckily I didn't finish my keystones for the HDBase-T until tonight :p

lol, yeah I can see that. I just want to make sure it works then hopefully I can get back to work!

I wouldn't even have ordered the projector yet, but I got what seems to be a pretty good deal on a Epson refurbished unit with the full two-year warranty so I went ahead and pulled the trigger.

Now just trying to decide if a white or grey screen is the way to go. This projector is bright enough to handle a grey screen for sure.
 

13Gigatons

Diamond Member
Apr 19, 2005
7,461
500
126
lol, yeah I can see that. I just want to make sure it works then hopefully I can get back to work!

I wouldn't even have ordered the projector yet, but I got what seems to be a pretty good deal on a Epson refurbished unit with the full two-year warranty so I went ahead and pulled the trigger.

Now just trying to decide if a white or grey screen is the way to go. This projector is bright enough to handle a grey screen for sure.


I fell prey to not finishing...oh well I have all winter to finally finish the damn thing. :whiste:

The Epson 3500 is a beast though...I so want.