I dropped my brand new bike.
*sigh*
The right turn signal plastic housing busted open and there's now a scuff on the plastic seat area from where it landed on the curb.
Was following a van in a parking lot. When I was in the middle of the 90 degree turn at maybe 4mph the van suddenly slammed on the brakes and I wasn't able to turn the front wheel straight before coming to a stop. The bike leaned to the right and toppled on the right with me under it a bit.
Take aways:
1. Do more low speed precision drills to hammer muscle reflex on how to stop a bike without having it topple over.
2. Practice saving the bike from toppling over, possibly in a grassy field. I need to get used to overcoming the weight, and picking it back up for when I drop it again.
3. Follow further away than what I think I may need.
4. Practice straightening the bike out before each stop. The MSF class actually drilled this, but it was:
a. faster speed = easier
b. we anticipated it and it wasn't a surprise
I dropped my brand new bike.
*sigh*
Should be easy to fix the turn signal. Lots of replacement plastic on ebay to repair the scuff, but it's probably a perfect place to put a decal anyway![]()
Haha, that's true. I'm not too worried about it. The turn signal lens popped off, but the screw that holds it to the main housing stripped off, so I will have to replace the entire housing. Of course, there's always super glue...
Decals are sweet
Another take-away:
I will probably need to get the bike lowered. I am still on my tip toes, and if I were able to get flat footed I would NOT drop this bike. The practice bikes in the MSF class were lower cruiser types and I had no problem power walking them backwards, forwards, and preventing topples. I'm having a very hard time walking this bike forwards, backwards into parking spaces, and of course, preventing it from toppling over. By the time my foot is flat on the ground, the bike's already at a pretty good angle where the weight could overwhelm my leg.
I dropped my brand new bike.
*sigh*
Then don't flat foot it. You never want to lean a bike over to the point you cannot easily support the weight of it.
Oh, and get some frame sliders.
I dropped my brand new bike.
Ding ding ding. Got it. Last year's model on sale for $270. Kinda wish it had a better design though. Eh. Supporting the little cycle shops I guess.
Happens to us all. I dropped my first bike a few times.
I'll second Jule's recommendation for a Battery Tender brand float charger. Motorcycle batteries are tiny things and a bike's alternator doesn't put out much extra juice so it's easy for the battery to get low if you're not riding much. I don't keep my bike on the tender during riding season when I'm on it every day or two, but if I'm going to be off of it for 4 or more days I'll plug it in.
ZV
Car alternators play with 1000w. His bike will be fine, it can handle a 65w drain while he's riding.
Sheesh, you Mechanical folk...
Car alternators play with 1000w. His bike will be fine, it can handle a 65w drain while he's riding.
Sheesh, you Mechanical folk...
A car alternator, yes. A bike's assumes a much smaller load. The stock alternator on that bike is only 180W, and only puts out 6A at 1000RPM.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Alternator_Information
Demon-Xanth has it.
So, 6 amps at 1,000 RPM.
Amps = Watts/Volts
Headlight = 55 watts = (55/12) amps = ~4.5 amps.
Positional bulbs (indicators + tail) = 5 watts * 5 bulbs = (25/12) amps = ~2 amps.
At 1,000 RPM, the lights alone are drawing more amperage than the alternator is supplying which means that, at idle, the battery is actually being very slowly discharged. Once at speed, it can handle more, but it's not something he'll want to put much (if any) additional load on.
Additionally, the battery, being physically small, has a very limited amp-hour capacity. Even bikes have a bit of a parasitic draw when off and the battery can't sit like that for more than a few weeks reliably. The people I know who keep their bikes on a battery tender manage to get 4 or 5 years out of a motorcycle battery. Those who don't tend to be replacing batteries every other year. In practice, consistent use of a battery tender can double the life expectancy of a motorcycle battery.
ZV
Great pics. What camera do you have? Very good.
You've got me all excited to go buy the bike I've been eyeing for the last week. My friend just took me out to a parking lot to drive his around a little. Got 20 minutes in before the carpet store manager came out and shoo'd us away.
D300, 11-16mm f/2.8, 17-55mm f/2.8, 70-200mm f/2.8 VR
demon-xanth has it.
So, 6 amps at 1,000 rpm.
Amps = watts/volts
headlight = 55 watts = (55/12) amps = ~4.5 amps.
Positional bulbs (indicators + tail) = 5 watts * 5 bulbs = (25/12) amps = ~2 amps.
At 1,000 rpm, the lights alone are drawing more amperage than the alternator is supplying which means that, at idle, the battery is actually being very slowly discharged. Once at speed, it can handle more, but it's not something he'll want to put much (if any) additional load on.
Additionally, the battery, being physically small, has a very limited amp-hour capacity. Even bikes have a bit of a parasitic draw when off and the battery can't sit like that for more than a few weeks reliably. The people i know who keep their bikes on a battery tender manage to get 4 or 5 years out of a motorcycle battery. Those who don't tend to be replacing batteries every other year. In practice, consistent use of a battery tender can double the life expectancy of a motorcycle battery.
Zv
I don't think there's any point in ever arguing with anything you ever post.
