Ok, ok, thanks for all the replies, and sorry, I don't have a trout handy to slap myself with 😛
I DON'T WANT TO PAY THAT MUCH ( <$100 )
1. The sub has a built-in amp (it's powered already).
2. Car cigarette lighters go to a max of 120W before blowing a fuse. My sub does 120W RMS, an exact fit, and I believe it shouldn't blow the fuse because I doubt I'll be running 120W continuously (something tells me the bass would start sounding bad at around that time.)
3. If it does blow the fuse, can't I just replace the fuse with one that blows at a later wattage, like say 150W?
4. I'll be using an inverter (plugs into cigarette socket and accepts ac plugs) rated at over 120W continuous. Tripp Lite, Vector, etc.
As far as the sound goes, the sub sounds pretty damn good already in a dorm room double, which is about 4 times the volume of my car, which means I could care less if the thing doesn't do 120W RMS because it already sounds very good. In fact, if it normally does less than 120W RMS then that's all the better because it means no blown fuse.
Note: I'm not going for earthquake-like bass here. Just trying to add more "substance" to the bass and I figure this would be a neat little project. And it'll most likely just chill in the back seat, not the trunk.
MIKE, thanks for the offer, but besides the fact that $170 is too expensive right now, I want a sub that I can take out easily to save trunk space (I actually use my trunk for things) and something that's not so... permanent. The parentals would kill me if they popped open my trunk and saw a sub, and yes, they pop open my trunk a lot when I'm home. My car basically becomes a family car when I'm back.
