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Anyone know how to hook up a computer subwoofer to a car stereo?

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You know what, that is a damn good idea, most of these people are just being ignorant to the fact that it does push 120watts RMS, and a comparible car audio set up would cost much more.

You will need to open the box, find the signal wire, and the input wires, and then you will need a power inverter, maybe you could find a small inverter and install in inside the box? It would probably look pretty clean that way, keep us updated.
 
Originally posted by: iamtrout
Originally posted by: feralkid
Why would one need an inverter?

All of my computer subs run on 12V.

😕

The AC plug needs to convert to cigarette.




Why go to through cig plug at all?



think about it...



any (preferably fused) 12V source would work.



 
Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: iamtrout
Originally posted by: feralkid
Why would one need an inverter?

All of my computer subs run on 12V.

😕

The AC plug needs to convert to cigarette.




Why go to through cig plug at all?



think about it...



any (preferably fused) 12V source would work.

uh.. i bet your computer subs DONT work on 12v. 120V yes, but not 12V.

MIKE
 
Originally posted by: Gothgar
You know what, that is a damn good idea, most of these people are just being ignorant to the fact that it does push 120watts RMS, and a comparible car audio set up would cost much more.

You will need to open the box, find the signal wire, and the input wires, and then you will need a power inverter, maybe you could find a small inverter and install in inside the box? It would probably look pretty clean that way, keep us updated.





Again with the power inverter.

It runs on 12V...just like the car!


No inverter is needed.
 

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: iamtrout
Originally posted by: feralkid
Why would one need an inverter?

All of my computer subs run on 12V.

😕

The AC plug needs to convert to cigarette.




Why go to through cig plug at all?



think about it...



any (preferably fused) 12V source would work.

uh.. i bet your computer subs DONT work on 12v. 120V yes, but not 12V.

MIKE






What's that big cube on the plug end do?

 
Originally posted by: feralkid

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: iamtrout
Originally posted by: feralkid
Why would one need an inverter?

All of my computer subs run on 12V.

😕

The AC plug needs to convert to cigarette.




Why go to through cig plug at all?



think about it...



any (preferably fused) 12V source would work.

uh.. i bet your computer subs DONT work on 12v. 120V yes, but not 12V.

MIKE






What's that big cube on the plug end do?

i dont have a logi, i have a klipsch, but there is no big block on the end of mine.

MIKE
 
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: feralkid

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: iamtrout
Originally posted by: feralkid
Why would one need an inverter?

All of my computer subs run on 12V.

😕

The AC plug needs to convert to cigarette.




Why go to through cig plug at all?







think about it...



any (preferably fused) 12V source would work.

uh.. i bet your computer subs DONT work on 12v. 120V yes, but not 12V.

MIKE






What's that big cube on the plug end do?

i dont have a logi, i have a klipsch, but there is no big block on the end of mine.

MIKE


Maybe it uses 120...all of mine arew 12V, that's why i couldn't figure out why everyone was talking about an inverter.

What's it say on it for power consumption?

 
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: feralkid

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: iamtrout
Originally posted by: feralkid
Why would one need an inverter?

All of my computer subs run on 12V.

😕

The AC plug needs to convert to cigarette.

Why go to through cig plug at all?

think about it...

any (preferably fused) 12V source would work.

uh.. i bet your computer subs DONT work on 12v. 120V yes, but not 12V.

MIKE


What's that big cube on the plug end do?

i dont have a logi, i have a klipsch, but there is no big block on the end of mine.

MIKE

Your klipschs just have the power converter on the inside of the equipment. The block he's reffering to on most equipment is external. The block converts 120A/C to some DC voltage (varies by device). His car is outputing 12VDC from the battery. *IF* the speakers' converter changes 120VAC to 12VDC, then there is no reason for the inverter/converter, you can run directly off the battery. IE you don't need to use the A/C plug on the speakers at all, bypass it and wire it directly to the DC running components on the speaker after the point where the 120VAC gets converted to DC.

The only problem with this is we don't know what DC input the speakers use. Look at the back of the power A/C converter. It will give your it's output in VDC and Amps.
 
Originally posted by: Phoenix86
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: feralkid

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: iamtrout
Originally posted by: feralkid
Why would one need an inverter?

All of my computer subs run on 12V.

😕

The AC plug needs to convert to cigarette.

Why go to through cig plug at all?

think about it...

any (preferably fused) 12V source would work.

uh.. i bet your computer subs DONT work on 12v. 120V yes, but not 12V.

MIKE


What's that big cube on the plug end do?

i dont have a logi, i have a klipsch, but there is no big block on the end of mine.

MIKE

Your klipschs just have the power converter on the inside of the equipment. The block he's reffering to on most equipment is external. The block converts 120A/C to some DC voltage (varies by device). His car is outputing 12VDC from the battery. *IF* the speakers' converter changes 120VAC to 12VDC, then there is no reason for the inverter/converter, you can run directly off the battery. IE you don't need to use the A/C plug on the speakers at all, bypass it and wire it directly to the DC running components on the speaker after the point where the 120VAC gets converted to DC.

The only problem with this is we don't know what DC input the speakers use. Look at the back of the power A/C converter. It will give your it's output in VDC and Amps.

i was getting to that part but it would be a pain to rp open and convert to a dc.

MIKE
 
I tried opening it. Didn't work too well. There are literally about 30 tiny wood screws in the back of this thing, all of which I realised were for show after I removed all of them.

Aha! There is NO AC adapter on this thing. Just a straight two pronged plug. So I guess this means it converts 120V to 12V internally, right? What does this mean?
 
It doesn't necessarily convert to 12V internally. It could be something higher or lower. If it was 12 you could just run a pair of power leads out to use when its in the car.
 
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
i was getting to that part but it would be a pain to rp open and convert to a dc.

MIKE
And an inverter is somehow free? 😉

time=$

You can't work as much as you'd like, but you can save yourself some $ by not spending it and investing your time. I'm assuming the OP isn't loaded otherwise he wouldn't be looking at this kind of solution...
 
Originally posted by: iamtrout
I tried opening it. Didn't work too well. There are literally about 30 tiny wood screws in the back of this thing, all of which I realised were for show after I removed all of them.

Aha! There is NO AC adapter on this thing. Just a straight two pronged plug. So I guess this means it converts 120V to 12V internally, right? What does this mean?

Yes, but it also means you can't tell the voltage easy either. On an external converter it's printed on the brick.
 
Originally posted by: Phoenix86
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
i was getting to that part but it would be a pain to rp open and convert to a dc.

MIKE
And an inverter is somehow free? 😉

time=$

You can't work as much as you'd like, but you can save yourself some $ by not spending it and investing your time. I'm assuming the OP isn't loaded otherwise he wouldn't be looking at this kind of solution...

i know who he is, he just doesnt like spending money. college kid = cheap.

cheap invertors can be like 20-30$

MIKE
 
UPDATE:

I had an 85W continuous inverter lying around so I hooked up my sub to the car.

Now here's the clever part:

You know how everyone (including me) thought that I needed a new head unit to get a seperate bass output? I bypassed this.

How?

$5 headphone splitters from radio shack. I run all my music through my portable MP3 player, so I plugged the headphone splitter into it, with one end going into my cassette deck adapter and into my car's regular sound system, and the other end into the sub with the satellites detached.

AND IT WORKS.

Issues: Sub is rated at 120W RMS. Inverter is rated at only 85W continuous. For some reason, the inverter is not failing even with the sub volume turned up all the way, which means that either I have a super inverter or the sub is putting out nowhere near 120W. Does anyone know why? I thought RMS was supposed to be a truthful wattage spec, not like PMPO. Could it be because the inverter isn't putting out clean power or something, and that's limiting the sub internally, regardless of what its volume controller says?

Other issue: Should I try putting this in the trunk? I never understood why subs are put in trunks. Why not in the back seat, where it's closer to the people listening? ("people need to sit there" reasons aside.)

Oh yeah, how long can I keep this running for without driving the car before my battery goes dead?
 
UPDATE: I just got a 175W inverter from Walmart for about $36. The bass is now a bit more powerful, with no sudden power cut-offs to the sub like there was with the 85W inverter when the sub was at max volume.

Short term Conclusion:

It's very easy to do, and the quality is not bad for being $50 for sub (doubled as computer sub), $40 for inverter (which can be convenient for other uses), and $5 for headphone splitter. The bass is anything but clear and smooth. In fact, I'd define it more as noise and "hits" than pure bass, but there's still a good amount of bass in there. I can hear the sub bottoming out (I think). You get a small back massage feeling, but not as much as with a real sub. The logitech is basically limited by the fact that it's 8 inches and can't possibly produce the bass that a 10 incher can. Somehow I doubt it's running at 120W.

Question: Should I try replacing this sub with a better quality/higher power handling 8incher?

I'll try taking pictures tomorrow of this thing seat belted to the back seat.
 
I typed about 3 different replies to this thread and deleted them all. I just happen to manage one of the largest car audio retailers in Michigan. What you have right now is the lowest possible sound quality and the chances of you harming your car or your equipment is almost 100%. Go to the flea market and buy a bazooka tube if you want cheap bass. Otherwise spend the money and get a decent 10, an amp, and the proper wiring.
 
subs go in trunks because people dont' like sitting on subs. i thought about this ghetto mod before.. didn't do it heh.

your headunit has line in? thast buggering me...i don't want to dig the headunit out to see if theres a changer plug or whatever... was thinking of adding a switch box on the input to my amp. switch between mp3 player and headunit. possibility of blasting myself at high volume by mistake is freaky though
 
haha, I did this once! My first surround set was a Kinyo 35w 5.1 set with rca connectors -- it was for a computer or TV or whatever. I was bored one day and hooked it up in my car. MAN what a difference! Had the speakers powered by my inverter through the cigarette adapter and the audio was provided by my portable MiniDisc player. I wedged the two front satellites between the front seats and car walls, the center went in a hole in the console, the two rears went on the back deck (this was in a saturn sedan), and I put the sub behind the passenger's seat. It was rockin'! A bit ghetto but I had a blast. I went over and showed my friend and he laughed his head off.

ps I got the z-2200s this past Christmas...killer speakers 🙂
 
Originally posted by: GoodDad
I typed about 3 different replies to this thread and deleted them all. I just happen to manage one of the largest car audio retailers in Michigan. What you have right now is the lowest possible sound quality and the chances of you harming your car or your equipment is almost 100%. Go to the flea market and buy a bazooka tube if you want cheap bass. Otherwise spend the money and get a decent 10, an amp, and the proper wiring.

Could you go into more detail please about why it's the lowest possible sound quality/highest possible danger?
 
Originally posted by: iamtrout
Originally posted by: GoodDad
I typed about 3 different replies to this thread and deleted them all. I just happen to manage one of the largest car audio retailers in Michigan. What you have right now is the lowest possible sound quality and the chances of you harming your car or your equipment is almost 100%. Go to the flea market and buy a bazooka tube if you want cheap bass. Otherwise spend the money and get a decent 10, an amp, and the proper wiring.

Could you go into more detail please about why it's the lowest possible sound quality/highest possible danger?

not tonite. Its been a rough week at work and I dont feel like going into details. Lets just say that I have seen cars catch on fire with better installs.
 
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