We used to have an acre and a half in the 70's in Florida. First recommendation, check with the local agricultural extension service. They will know local resources. And that Rodale link looks good. In FL, the University of FL's ag school did research on grape cultivars in conjunction with North Carolina. They would have a yearly field day with tips, new strain discussions, etc. That will help you keep current on the business and find suitable resources.
Now my knowledge is based on southern grapes, which consist of Scuppernong, Muscadine, and some of the research bunch grapes. The South has a challenge with a Grape Antracnose that kills non-resistant strains. Those would be things like Blue Lake, Merlot, Champagne, etc. PA should be able to grow those popular wine strains as well as others.
To start, you need to research what to grow. You then need to order. But in the meantime, it is post hole digging time. We used a non T 2 wire setup. 10' post to post, with a mid wire and a top wire. I think a T style might be better with a cross bar on the post and wires on each end, but you get into loaded weights ... check with the growers of the cultivars and what current tech is. But that did mean that my dad and I put in over 120 treated posts... 2 wires... 10 feet apart, 2400 feet of galvanzied wire. At the end of each row, you MUST run a guy wire and anchor. You are going to support thousands of pounds on that line and post system, so you must set an anchor. The rows need to be far enough apart to get your tractor through with room to spare. You will want a mower. You will probably buy RoundUp by the gallon concentrate (used for weed control around the base of the grapes).
You plant the grapes between the poles. It takes about 3 years before you get your first minimal crop. Year 1 and 2 are watering, training, pest management, and fertilizing. Our whips started at about 2' and were not tall enough to reach the middle wire. We made an anchor to go into the ground and attached a string. We then run the line up and looped it around the middle wire and then up to the top, tying it off. Using either raffa or plastic tape (and a stapler), we did a loose couple of wraps around the whip and put in on the string. Much caution is used because too tight can cause girdling. Plan for growth and potentially making it easy to remove or replace the wrap in year 2, 3. Be very careful of the tip. You want the tip to go all the way to the top and not have to restart a new one.
With a good growing season, you check periodically (1 month?) all your anchors. You pinch off all side growth focusing on the tip. As the whip gets to and past the mid wire, you select two buds to train down the wire (don' t pinch!). As it passes, you now have a tip and two side buds to monitor. You wrap the side buds down the wire using the same technique you used with tip so that you can get a branch down the wires. When the tip gets near the top wire, monitor a couple of buds (not pinching) to select your top wire branches. When you have 2 near the top wire, pinch the original tip. You now have a double T of branches. As the branches get established on the wire, you can then remove the guide string and any main trunk wraps. In the 2nd and 3rd year, you are still training and wrapping on the wires. But remember that you will be removing wraps to avoid girdling.
Every winter, it is pruning shear time. You remove all of the season growth by trimming between the 2nd and 3rd knuckle of the new growth. You prune hard getting back to sticks on branches on the wire. Most grapes are only on new growth, so you do not care about last seasons. But hey, you can make wreaths from the vines. As bundles, the wood should be good for smoking fish and pork... This is one of those things that you want someone to show you how to do. The pruning is very important and insures that you have a crop next year. It is done with the vines are dormant. So, in PA, expect cold hands.
That is about all I can think of at the moment.
