- May 3, 2004
- 25,030
- 5
- 61
And I'm mostly happy with it. I have no complaints about anything that's not cosmetic, not willing to put any money into that stuff.
My only real worry is mileage. I've put 25k on it in a year and a half. :\
Skeeedunt
Platinum Member
- Oct 7, 2005
- 2,777
- 3
- 76
Am I reading correctly that you goal is to trade in your 2008 for a same-model, new 2012? You'd better hope they're drowning in manufacturer incentives, I just don't see how that could possibly be worth it for them, no matter how good the used market is.
Beyond that, the only real key to negotiating is knowing your numbers. What used stuff is going for (including yours), and what invoice is on the new stuff (to offer $X over, usually around $500-$1k I think? never bought new before). Figure out what you're willing to pay (including a small convenience tax for doing it through the dealer vs private party), offer them less, and see if they come close. If they don't, tell them it's not going to work. If they still won't deal, walk away.
Beyond that, the only real key to negotiating is knowing your numbers. What used stuff is going for (including yours), and what invoice is on the new stuff (to offer $X over, usually around $500-$1k I think? never bought new before). Figure out what you're willing to pay (including a small convenience tax for doing it through the dealer vs private party), offer them less, and see if they come close. If they don't, tell them it's not going to work. If they still won't deal, walk away.
You have a 2008 that you like, with no mechanical problems, and you want to get rid of it?
I don't understand Americans.
I don't understand Americans.
I can comment on this, dealerships get money for meeting certain quotes from the manufacturer. It's not all about how much money they make sometimes be it's based on volume of sales.
- Oct 9, 1999
- 46,875
- 10,685
- 147
If it's something you want to do out of curiosity, go for it. Just know, as I think you probably do, that a dealer is not going to offer you nearly as much for your car as you could get selling it privately.
If you engage them, demand up front that they keep what they're giving you for your car entirely separate from any and all rebates, invoice reductions, or special promotions on the total dollar cost of the car they are trying to sell you.
Also, get that up front price fixed before you talk about any of the details re:financing.
Mixing the details of these three separate things is how they obscure the true costs of each.
And never, ever fall for any "but you must sign now" demand. If the offer is legit, it'll be there tomorrow as well.
Finally, if you do agree to something, read the living hell out of what you sign -- sometimes, the details tend to mysteriously differ.
I have a feeling you'll do well. It's the poor salesman who may think he has a female pushover who's in for a huge surprise!
- May 3, 2004
- 25,030
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Do you mean quotas? That's probably the only thing that would make this work. Either way, I'm no worse off.
And why on earth would the sales manager need to call to confirm an appointment with the salesman?
- Oct 30, 2000
- 42,589
- 5
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There are some guidelines and idea also in threads in the Garage.
As others have stated; research and stand your ground.
They have the experience/training to try to wear you down; go in properly armed with every weapon you have; including yourself. :wub:
As others have stated; research and stand your ground.
They have the experience/training to try to wear you down; go in properly armed with every weapon you have; including yourself. :wub:
Sorry "quotas" is the right word lol.
Also wear something revealing. I guess fight fire with fire.
Also wear something revealing. I guess fight fire with fire.
Do you mean quotas? That's probably the only thing that would make this work. Either way, I'm no worse off.
And why on earth would the sales manager need to call to confirm an appointment with the salesman?
- May 3, 2004
- 25,030
- 5
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I'm better armed than that. I'm over six feet tall, so being intimidated is something he's more likely to suffer than I am.
- May 3, 2004
- 25,030
- 5
- 61
I called the guy back, told him that I'd been doing my research, and that there didn't seem to be any way to make this work, so no point in me wasting any more of his time.
Him: "I'm not interested in making money, I'm interested in getting a car out the door." It's all about the quota.
I gave him my numbers, and he's going to see whether he can make it work, then call me back.
Him: "I'm not interested in making money, I'm interested in getting a car out the door." It's all about the quota.
I gave him my numbers, and he's going to see whether he can make it work, then call me back.
rh71
No Lifer
- Aug 28, 2001
- 52,844
- 1,049
- 126
We just bought a Sonata applying a $500 "rebate" for doing their financing. Long and short of the story is they put that $500 into the negotiations instead of applying it afterward... and beyond that when we were actually doing the paperwork they say we're getting another $500 eco-credit rebate "just for having another car in the family" (didn't matter what kind of car). OF COURSE that extra $500 never came up during negotiations 2 days before. They just wanted to put it down as the sales price (adding rebates back in) to pad their numbers or whatnot... we get charged extra taxes as a result too which they made up for with more free oil changes (5 years worth). Oh and a lot of "I'm sorrys" for the confusion. If I were a hard-nosed NO BS negotiator I would've just given them the finger and walked but my wife wanted the car and it was the last day of the month for any incentives. Turns out there are no such incentives this new month so we're fine.
Moral of my story - even if you do your homework and they know it - they will still do everything in their power to pad their margins. Then try to make it up to you in other ways if confronted. This sales guy wasn't even some dirtbag who'd give you a bad feeling the instant you shook his hand - he was a clean-cut family guy who you'd love to have as a neighbor - doesn't matter... they are all about the $$$ in the end and will speak any mistruths that will help the dealer's profit margins. Another example is he mentioned the minimum to finance was $7k... then another day he said it was $10k. Finance guy finally said it was $7500. They didn't try to get us on the rate though - it was 0.9% for 36 months as promised which will be paid in full during month 1 anyway.
I thought it would make things more pleasant having them know I did my homework. Doesn't matter. Car buying experiences SUCK.
Moral of my story - even if you do your homework and they know it - they will still do everything in their power to pad their margins. Then try to make it up to you in other ways if confronted. This sales guy wasn't even some dirtbag who'd give you a bad feeling the instant you shook his hand - he was a clean-cut family guy who you'd love to have as a neighbor - doesn't matter... they are all about the $$$ in the end and will speak any mistruths that will help the dealer's profit margins. Another example is he mentioned the minimum to finance was $7k... then another day he said it was $10k. Finance guy finally said it was $7500. They didn't try to get us on the rate though - it was 0.9% for 36 months as promised which will be paid in full during month 1 anyway.
I thought it would make things more pleasant having them know I did my homework. Doesn't matter. Car buying experiences SUCK.
I'm not desperate for a new car. But if they're desperate enough to deal, why not?
No, they were not. They just pretend to be desperate. lol
Six, check out any cars 3-4 years old, and they better be around half of what a new one is.
Even if you pay cash on a brand new car, the amount the value depreciates over the next 3-4 years, you figure you just bought a very expensive warranty. Though granted, if you are going to buy cash, or finance for 0% or super low interest, make sure you go in telling them you aren't trading in, you are just out to buy a 2nd car, and work your deal.
Double check all the quotes they give ya, on used or new, and once you guys settle add in the trade.
Car Salesman and their "finance" guys in the back office love to play hokey and loose with the math.
My recommendation ultimately, is if you don't owe on your car, but are thinking of a new, figure out what your payment would be, then save that much a month for the next year.
If you can't make it a year without saving the money 100% because stuff comes up, etc, then you can't afford the new car. If you can make it a year, then you might as well save the rest of the way, and then find a car you really want.
Once you have the money to buy a car cash, you just check all the time for the deals. I am sure you saw killer deals in the past, and wish you had the cash for it... While if you save it for it, when you find that killer deal, you will have the cash.
Even if you pay cash on a brand new car, the amount the value depreciates over the next 3-4 years, you figure you just bought a very expensive warranty. Though granted, if you are going to buy cash, or finance for 0% or super low interest, make sure you go in telling them you aren't trading in, you are just out to buy a 2nd car, and work your deal.
Double check all the quotes they give ya, on used or new, and once you guys settle add in the trade.
Car Salesman and their "finance" guys in the back office love to play hokey and loose with the math.
My recommendation ultimately, is if you don't owe on your car, but are thinking of a new, figure out what your payment would be, then save that much a month for the next year.
If you can't make it a year without saving the money 100% because stuff comes up, etc, then you can't afford the new car. If you can make it a year, then you might as well save the rest of the way, and then find a car you really want.
Once you have the money to buy a car cash, you just check all the time for the deals. I am sure you saw killer deals in the past, and wish you had the cash for it... While if you save it for it, when you find that killer deal, you will have the cash.
never understand this....if your gonna buy a new car since your looking why would you not wait for the new redesign?! its gonna be noticeably better then the already good 2012 model. if there was a time i would wait that would be it go for one. only issue there is you would be an early adopter which can have it draw backs(recalls TSB other BS).
SpatiallyAware
Lifer
- Sep 7, 2009
- 12,960
- 3
- 0
- May 3, 2004
- 25,030
- 5
- 61
- May 3, 2004
- 25,030
- 5
- 61
I was driving home from work last Tuesday. Hit the brakes as I approached a red light, hit a pretty good sized bump in the road as I was braking. Immediately, the pedal went soft, and stayed soft. A good half-second between hitting the pedal and any loss of speed, had to really stand on it to come to a complete stop.
Had been in for an oil change the week before, and they checked the brake pads and fluid, so that couldn't be part of the problem.
Did some reading on the web, and found that others have had varying results with ABS, at the right combination of speed, braking, and bumps in the road. Found a couple of tips to try to identify the problem.
So I started it up with the pedal depressed, to see whether it sunk further as the system powered up. No change.
Pumped the pedal a few times, then shut the car off. When started back up, the brakes were just as responsive as they've ever been.
Went ahead and took it to the dealer, to see if they could find anything wrong. They gave it a clean bill of health.
They've been working great ever since.
Weird, I know. :shrug:
rh71
No Lifer
- Aug 28, 2001
- 52,844
- 1,049
- 126
I would never spend my hard earned cash to be a first-model redesign guinea-pig. I just got off the Sonata forums with people saying their 2011s had hard-shifting transmission issues for which Hyundai put in remanufactured trannys on 10k mi. cars. Oh hell no...
Doppel
Lifer
- Feb 5, 2011
- 13,306
- 3
- 0
Boring "upgrade", going from previous gen to current is a truly boring thing to do, I wouldn't bother. Keep your car.
- May 3, 2004
- 25,030
- 5
- 61
There would be some advantages, though nothing major.
The 2008 has an really ugly dash and radio - all green LED lights. If I were a tinkerer and more confident in my mechanical skills, I'd rip that shit out and replace them all. They updated all that in 2010, much nicer.
The 12 has built-in blind-spot mirrors, and a nicer gear shift. Also removable cup-holders - it sucks to clean the ones I have.
Also, the 12 I drove was amazingly more quiet than my 08. Didn't care for the 12's cloth seats, though - and WTH is up with setting off the alarm if you don't start it fast enough? :\
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