AMD Ryzen 5000 Builders Thread

[B-Riz]

	Cores Threads	Base Freq	Turbo Freq	L3 Cache	TDP	MSRP
Ryzen 9 5950X	16c/32t	3400	4900	64 MB	105 W	$799
Ryzen 9 5900X	12c/24t	3700	4800	64 MB	105 W	$549
Ryzen 7 5800X	8c/16t	3800	4700	32 MB	105 W	$449
Ryzen 5 5600X	6c/12t	3700	4600	32 MB	65 W	$299

5600X comes with cooler, the rest do not.

above from https://www.anandtech.com/show/1614...en-3-on-nov-5th-19-ipc-claims-best-gaming-cpu

 

[cytg111]

I am getting no post at all with this

MPG X570 GAMING PLUS
5800x
32G G.Skill TridentZ Neo Series
Corsair RM850
3080TI

That is, there be leds on the backside of the mobo that lights up when I switch the PSU on, so the 24pin ATX connector is doing something.

But for the life of me I cant get anything out of it when flipping the switch (hard jump too).

Just silence.
That means RAM CPU or PSU right?

CPU glides right in.
BIOS is 2607, Ryzen 500 ready. (says so on sticker)
RAM reseated multiple times.

Nothing.

Ideas? .

 

[bba-tcg]

I am getting no post at all with this

MPG X570 GAMING PLUS
5800x
32G G.Skill TridentZ Neo Series
Corsair RM850
3080TI

That is, there be leds on the backside of the mobo that lights up when I switch the PSU on, so the 24pin ATX connector is doing something.

But for the life of me I cant get anything out of it when flipping the switch (hard jump too).

Just silence.
That means RAM CPU or PSU right?

CPU glides right in.
BIOS is 2607, Ryzen 500 ready. (says so on sticker)
RAM reseated multiple times.

Nothing.

Ideas? .

When I look up that board on MSI's site, the BIOS you list doesn't appear to be a valid BIOS version. It lists 7C37vAB as necessary for your CPU.

Do you have a speaker connected? Do the fans spin?

It looks like it has an 8 pin and 4 pin 12v connector for the CPU power. You should power both, but at least the 8 pin. I would think that power supply would have both available.

Try with one stick of RAM is A2 which is the 2nd closest to CPU socket.

 

[cytg111]

When I look up that board on MSI's site, the BIOS you list doesn't appear to be a valid BIOS version. It lists 7C37vAB as necessary for your CPU.

Do you have a speaker connected? Do the fans spin?

It looks like it has an 8 pin and 4 pin 12v connector for the CPU power. You should power both, but at least the 8 pin. I would think that power supply would have both available.

Try with one stick of RAM is A2 which is the 2nd closest to CPU socket.

Sorry I am a moron... I switched the board to a

ASUS TUF GAMING X570-PLUS

On suggestion in this thread.

TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI)｜Motherboards｜ASUS Global

TUF Gaming series distills essential elements of the latest AMD and Intel® platforms, and combines them with game-ready features and proven durability. Engineered with military-grade components, an upgraded power solution and a comprehensive set of cooling options, this motherboard delivers...

www.asus.com

It lists 2607 for 5900 and 5950 ... but doesnt actually list 5800 .. I just figured + stuff I gathered for a variety of reddit posts that the 2607 should do it.

To answer your other Q's. No. Nothing spins up. Its not the case connectors, I am using a good old trusted screw driver to short the pins...
But as I said, there is those pesky led's on the backside of the board doing a dance (only when 24 pin atx connected).

Its all going out on a cardbox board today or tomorrow for minute inspection.

 

[bba-tcg]

Sorry I am a moron... I switched the board to a

ASUS TUF GAMING X570-PLUS

On suggestion in this thread.

TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI)｜Motherboards｜ASUS Global

TUF Gaming series distills essential elements of the latest AMD and Intel® platforms, and combines them with game-ready features and proven durability. Engineered with military-grade components, an upgraded power solution and a comprehensive set of cooling options, this motherboard delivers...

www.asus.com

It lists 2607 for 5900 and 5950 ... but doesnt actually list 5800 .. I just figured + stuff I gathered for a variety of reddit posts that the 2607 should do it.

To answer your other Q's. No. Nothing spins up. Its not the case connectors, I am using a good old trusted screw driver to short the pins...
But as I said, there is those pesky led's on the backside of the board doing a dance (only when 24 pin atx connected).

Its all going out on a cardbox board today or tomorrow for minute inspection.

Well, that will make a difference. It does list the 5800X w/ 2607.

And a single stick of RAM would still be A2, but now it's the furthest from CPU socket.

It sounds like the EATX12v not being connected to me. #1 in the pic.

 

[blckgrffn]

Lucky me, I already had one

Here is a picture of it stuffed together with the GPU. As you can see, it is a bit close to the CPU heatsink. Next time I am buying a smaller CPU heatsink, this thing is way to big. I may have also installed it upside down ...

View attachment 47502

By far and away, my biggest problem so far is I have not been able to sync the RGB on the GPU with the RGB on the mainboard. It is a total clash of colors! AMD uses coolermasters software to control the RGB, and it does not see the mainboard. On the other hand, ASUS controls with the crate software, and it does not see the GPU RGB. It is a "disaster" .

WHAT I CAN CONTROL THE RGB LSKDJFLSDKJFLKSDJfljSDLKjfLKSJ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Seriously. Mind blown. Sometimes it blinks. One time it turned off. It's super random and I've not been able to recreate it.

BUT NOW I CAN CONTROL IT?!?

Sweet looking build btw.

Going to start with the Open RGB software first then try Cooler Master. I just want to know I can control it. I already setup all my mainboard to be AMD so it's all set. But... Control!

UPDATE:

I have only a lowly AMD branded 6800 non-xt. It does not have ARGB and so there is no control for the onboard lighting.

Also, it's a tool that you download directly from AMD even though it appears to use Cooler Master under the hood, so bonus points for that.

Looks like there is a merge on the Open RGB project for the 6800XT+ series cards RGB control that might make it so you can tie it all together with your board. Worth a look.

I forgot you actually got to buy a 6900xt directly for less than I paid for my 6800. Still jelly

 

[Leeea]

Ideas? .

RMA it, not worth the fight!

 

[Leeea]

I have only a lowly AMD branded 6800 non-xt. It does not have ARGB and so there is no control for the onboard lighting.

Also, it's a tool that you download directly from AMD even though it appears to use Cooler Master under the hood, so bonus points for that.

My oh so pathetic issue is I have not been able to get both the GPU and mainboard to rainbow the same color at the same time in sync. I know, first world problems, eh? Better then no RGB, but I just know my computer would be faster if I could just get them to color change in sync.


I found JackNet RGB Sync, which claims to do this. However I have not had the guts to download or install it. It is using code injection to achieve it, and there is a reason that approach sets off malware checkers.

Sweet looking build btw.

Thank you! .

I was surprised how much dust there was.

I spent a foolish amount of time hand placing each wire back in the wire runs so they would be as close to perfect as I reasonably could get. I am well aware I am the only person who will ever see them.

 

[cytg111]

Well, that will make a difference. It does list the 5800X w/ 2607.

And a single stick of RAM would still be A2, but now it's the furthest from CPU socket.

It sounds like the EATX12v not being connected to me. #1 in the pic.

Yea reseated that 10 times

 

[bba-tcg]

Yea reseated that 10 times

Then something grounded that shouldn't be.

 

[Markfw]

Yea reseated that 10 times

BOTH the EATX plugs may need to be connected, are they ? Its verified that many people have had a problem where it would not even post if BOTH were not connected.

 

[aigomorla]

just a dumb question but did you try clearing cmos...
as in remove battery, short cmos reset and then try to repost?

 

[cytg111]

BOTH the EATX plugs may need to be connected, are they ? Its verified that many people have had a problem where it would not even post if BOTH were not connected.

Yea both and single just for measure

 

[cytg111]

just a dumb question but did you try clearing cmos...
as in remove battery, short cmos reset and then try to repost?

Nope… gonna pop the battery now

 

[cytg111]

Nope… gonna pop the battery now

Didnt work.

So got everything out on a cardboard. Started from scratch, reseated everything, minimal setup, plug in power, apply trusted screw driver.
And it spins up. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. But also... Pheeeeeeeeeeeeew.

 

[bba-tcg]

Didnt work.

So got everything out on a cardboard. Started from scratch, reseated everything, minimal setup, plug in power, apply trusted screw driver.
And it spins up. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. But also... Pheeeeeeeeeeeeew.

Probably something grounded somewhere.

 

[aigomorla]

u get no beeps no diag codes.... id say chauk up a dead board, and return it.
IF you can return it the vendor and NOT RMA with ASUS..

They will give u a refurb even tho you bought new, and it was DOA.

 

[cytg111]

u get no beeps no diag codes.... id say chauk up a dead board, and return it.
IF you can return it the vendor and NOT RMA with ASUS..

They will give u a refurb even tho you bought new, and it was DOA.

I got it spinning thanks .. must have been a ground somewhere.

 

[Leeea]

I got it spinning thanks .. must have been a ground somewhere.

That is a vicious problem to trace. It is not like you cranked down the screws with an impact driver.

I would say RMA is still on the table, you already put far more time into this then I would have even considered.

 

[cytg111]

That is a vicious problem to trace. It is not like you cranked down the screws with an impact driver.

I would say RMA is still on the table, you already put far more time into this then I would have even considered.

Well everything is assembled and waiting for a fresh win10 installation… be doing that tonight, so its all good .
My own fault for not cardbox testing first.. Usually do that, skipped this round to save some time. Time not saved. Lesson learned.

 

[Kenmitch]

Well everything is assembled and waiting for a fresh win10 installation… be doing that tonight, so its all good .
My own fault for not cardbox testing first.. Usually do that, skipped this round to save some time. Time not saved. Lesson learned.

Nice....What do you suspect was causing the issue the 1st go around?

 

[cytg111]

Nice....What do you suspect was causing the issue the 1st go around?

It might have been the PSU .. or a ground.
But the space in this crappy case hardly has place for the PSU, so had to bend the cables pretty hard to make everything fit.
Now I've molested the case, gotten rid of some stuff that I am not gonna use anyway as to make better room for the PSU. Crappy case.

 

[Kenmitch]

But the space in this crappy case hardly has place for the PSU, so had to bend the cables pretty hard to make everything fit.

If it's the same case you posted earlier in the photo it looks pretty rooms too me. Does it have a HDD tray down under the bottom compartment?

Corsair 220t is a pretty tight fit for my backup rig....Maybe it's just the XFX that makes it look so? It had a HDD tray down under that I had to remove for some more space for cables.



The lower 140mm could be used as a GPU support if it was need. lol

 

[Dave3000]

Is the Corsair H100i iCUE Elite a better CPU cooler than the Noctua U12A? I currently have a Noctua U12A CPU cooler for my 5800x. My 5800x hit's 90C in CB20 multicore within 4-5 seconds at a room temperature of 78F and then throttles down to 4.4-4.45 GHz while at 90C near then end of one run and I tried the stock NT-H1 paste and now I'm using Corsair XTM50 paste and no change in CPU package temperatures as checked by HWinfo64. Also I have a Fractal Meshify-C case that can only support a 280 and 360mm AIO if those are front-mounted and if I want to top mount an AIO it can only support up to 240mm for that. I don't want to end up bringing hot air into my case from a radiator, so I was thinking that maybe I'm better of with a 240mm AIO and top mount it as exhaust in my case. Ideally I prefer it if my 5800x stayed under 85C in CB20 multicore and didn't throttle below 4.6 GHz all-core. Is it worth switching to a Corsair H100i iCUE Elite from a Noctua U12A?

 

[UsandThem]

Is the Corsair H100i iCUE Elite a better CPU cooler than the Noctua U12A? I currently have a Noctua U12A CPU cooler for my 5800x. My 5800x hit's 90C in CB20 multicore within 4-5 seconds at a room temperature of 78F and then throttles down to 4.4-4.45 GHz while at 90C near then end of one run and I tried the stock NT-H1 paste and now I'm using Corsair XTM50 paste and no change in CPU package temperatures as checked by HWinfo64. Also I have a Fractal Meshify-C case that can only support a 280 and 360mm AIO if those are front-mounted and if I want to top mount an AIO it can only support up to 240mm for that. I don't want to end up bringing hot air into my case from a radiator, so I was thinking that maybe I'm better of with a 240mm AIO and top mount it as exhaust in my case. Ideally I prefer it if my 5800x stayed under 85C in CB20 multicore and didn't throttle below 4.6 GHz all-core. Is it worth switching to a Corsair H100i iCUE Elite from a Noctua U12A?

According to this review, the H100i wouldn't be much difference: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/noctua-nh-u12a/

There probably are better performing 240 AIO models out there, but I don't mess with liquid so no recommendations.

With good case airflow (and the ambient temps you stated), I'm surprised the CPU would hit 90 degrees. From the various reviews I've read on the NH-U12A, it can hold it's own compared to much larger coolers like the NH-D15.

 

[UsandThem]

I was curious to see what my temps would be running CB23, so I downloaded it and ran the multicore test (8 passes).

My case is a Dark Base 900 (not known as a case with great airflow), and my fans are configured to be very quiet (I can't hear them when sitting at my desk). I didn't want to mess with fan curves, so I left them as is.

With my NH-D15S, I hit 66 degrees (with it staying in the 64-65 range most of the time). I have had PBO turned off every since I first configured my fan curve as it caused my CPU to run too warm for the performance it provides.