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AMD Athlon XP1700+ "Thoroughbred" at newegg $60

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I've checked my CPU over and over again but there is no bridge that is NOT connected on the L3.

I mean..here is what I see:

L3 .::::: (Opposite side but you get what I mean. There's an extra node beside the L3.
        

I used pencil to connect it like this:
L3 . . . . . .
| | | | |
. . . . .

Did I do it correctly?? I don't know which last bridge are you talking about. 🙁
 
you cannot use a pencil. the pencil trick doesn't work with any of the XP chips.

there are a lot of things u can use, conductor pen, solder, rear defogger paint.

personally i used rear defogger paint.
 
Originally posted by: Tr0LL
you cannot use a pencil. the pencil trick doesn't work with any of the XP chips.

there are a lot of things u can use, conductor pen, solder, rear defogger paint.

personally i used rear defogger paint.
Click to expand...

I used a pencil to lock my Xp1600 to Xp2000 though. Which pins are you talking about?? How did you know that it's not connected?? I can't find any conductor paint or defogger kit around here. Don't ask me why but I tried. 😱
 
Originally posted by: Tr0LL
I received both my 1700+ T-Breds today from newegg. I am willing to bet everyone who says the chip is factory unlocked has a newer kt400 or nforce2 board (maybe even the kt333 works) as I'm pretty sure this is a false claim.
Click to expand...

Hmm must be the newer week and stepping where they locked em back up. Looks like you have to do the same steps as the 2100+ and 2200+'s to unlock the multis by connecting the last L3 bridge.

In any case, my chip is unlocked and I'm on an older board, Epox 8kha+. I actually connected the L1 bridges w/ rear window defogger b/c I didn't know they weren't cut underneath 🙂 I got pics if you really want to see them, I just don't have any place to host em. Only thing connected are my L1's, L3's I didn't even look at and I have everything < 12.5x

Chiz

 
well if u had to connect teh l1's, you are essentially unlocking it yourself. If you really want to test if it's factory unlocked wipe it all off...

just because there is no gap doesn't mean it's connected.

my l3 didn't have a gap, but i had to connect it with rear defogger b4 the multipliers worked.
 
If you had read previous posts, you would have noted that others with the same chip as me did nothing and their multipliers were unlocked. I didn't do anything to the L3 and all multipliers were unlocked, so even if my L1 were "reconnected", it made no difference as my multipliers were already there. We don't have the same chip, its a different week and a different stepping.

Chiz
 
Originally posted by: LilHen
Originally posted by: WouterK
Just received my $58 1700+ Thoroughbred,

AXDA1700DLT3C
RIGRA 0234WPMW

running on EPOX 8KA3+ with SAMSUNG PC2700

Runs solid at 10.5 x 170 = 1782 mem=fast with Vcore=1.75. (1.70 boot failed).

MBM CPU rose from 51 to 61 (had a 1600+ running at same speed) with AX-7.

Wonder what save max Vcore is , and what about the temperature rise of 10C. Will try higher OC!


Just worried about the 10 degrees in temp with Thoroughbred (mind you, using a very good heatsink!). With the 1600+ my temp were 55 to 60 with Vulcano 9+, and dropped 10 degrees when I got the AX-7.

Running PRIME for 2 hours with zero errors, but temp rose to 68. I realize the EPOX 8KA3 measures the temp in the core. I decided to go back to the 1600+ as the temperature is much lower.

Just wondering what the temperatures will be with 2400 an 2800 CPU's -- 80? Don't know if I can get better coolers?
Click to expand...

Contact surface area between the CPU core and HSF is much smaller than with the Pally's. That's why AMD mandated that all "recommended" HSFs for the T-bred A's would have to have a copper bottom (or at least copper contact area such as a copper insert slug). Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the surface for the Pally's was 128mm sq., down to 108mm sq. for the T-bred A's, and back up a little to 115mm sq. for the T-bred B's.

So WouterK, since you went back to your XP1600+, wanna well me your T-bred A?😉
Click to expand...


I've gone back to my Xp1600 too. The small surface on the chip is not helping in cooling for me. 🙁
 
my 1700tbred is running at 1.838ghz @ 1.8v, about 39-40 idle and 46-47 load. pretty similar temps to my aroia 1600. prime stable, but i'm going to try for higher....i hope to hit 1.9ghz.
 
lnguyen,

I have a Gigabyte GA-7VRXP KT333 mobo that refuses to boot with my new 1700 XP T-Bred. Is your MSI refusing to boot with it too? I tried 3 power supplies, 2 vid cards, 4 sticks of RAM, etc etc. It all runs fine with my old Duron, but nothing with the T-Bred. I updating my BIOS, cleared CMOS, tried 100 and 133 fsb, auto-detect and set multiplier. This board is supposed to run this chip! Any tips from anybody?? TIA!
 
Did you guys update your BIOS? 1700+ XP should be supported natively, but with the different core voltage who knows? Just a thought.

Chiz
 
mine boots fine after a bios clear.. but only as an athlon 1.1ghz (note, no XP). it will boot as an 1700+ XP as well, but will never reach windows (continually reboots). voltages max at 1.6. latest bios and whatnot... it's really buggin me to hell as i can't return the cpu.
 
Hmmm.... I wish I got that far... I don't know if my board or my chip is crap. The chip is new retail boxed from newegg but I don't want to waste money shipping it back for a replacement if there's nothing wrong with it...
 
yeah, i've done the default bios settings (which turns it to an 1.1ghz althon again). there are no "fail-safe" settings for this bios, only a default.
 
You are booting up with 100mhz FSB. Make sure your MB jumpers are set to 133, or in the bios set to 133. That should give you your default 1700+ speed.
 
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