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ABS Aplus Black Pearl

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Originally posted by: daw123
IDC, what is that (looks like a LCD display??) in the top two 5.25" drive bays?

http://i272.photobucket.com/al...CaseFinalwithsides.jpg

Nevermind; I re-read your posts and its this:
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1029/1/

It looks very cool (and surprisingly cheap). Is it any good?
Click to expand...

Yep its great, I love the touch-screen interface and the fact it simultaneously displays all four fan speeds and four temperature readings without requiring you to cycle thru any screen overlays.

Fan control is in 100rpm increments, and it does look pretty sweet too. There is a touchscreen button (the icon itself) which turns off the backlight so you don't have to have the lightsource all the time if you don't want it.

Only thing that I would like to see added in a future version is a profile switch, just something simple so you could have your quiet versus load profiles at the push of an icon on the touchscreen. Not that it is any effort to change fan speeds, its just the only critique I can give of the thing.
 
Originally posted by: Idontcare
Originally posted by: daw123
IDC, what is that (looks like a LCD display??) in the top two 5.25" drive bays?

http://i272.photobucket.com/al...CaseFinalwithsides.jpg

Nevermind; I re-read your posts and its this:
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1029/1/

It looks very cool (and surprisingly cheap). Is it any good?
Click to expand...

Yep its great, I love the touch-screen interface and the fact it simultaneously displays all four fan speeds and four temperature readings without requiring you to cycle thru any screen overlays.

Fan control is in 100rpm increments, and it does look pretty sweet too. There is a touchscreen button (the icon itself) which turns off the backlight so you don't have to have the lightsource all the time if you don't want it.

Only thing that I would like to see added in a future version is a profile switch, just something simple so you could have your quiet versus load profiles at the push of an icon on the touchscreen. Not that it is any effort to change fan speeds, its just the only critique I can give of the thing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info IDC.

If I didn't already have the TBalancer (and no free drive bays) I would go for a controller like this.
 
Mine came in today - EVERY BIT WORTH OF 99$ + shipping!!! and its Water Cooled Ready!!! Daw, here's your second case! Love it

Pic It's gonna replace my old black h20 case you see there. I need this thing to be my AVCHD editing machine and the other black case can only accommodate 1 HDD comfortably. Now I have room for my main OS drive, a scratch drive, and then a storage drive in Raid-1 (mirrored)
 
:thumbsup:

It's big isn't it? But light. When the UPS guy hauled it out of the back of his truck I was like ZOMG that's a large box.
 
Idontcare, awesome job on the setup and cabling. This case is so tempting.... Makes those Antec 900 and Storm Scouts feel like cheap heavy metal boxes!
 
Originally posted by: Idontcare
:thumbsup:

It's big isn't it? But light. When the UPS guy hauled it out of the back of his truck I was like ZOMG that's a large box.
Click to expand...

Love it! The more room the better!

Actually the other case I ordered for my X58 setup is larger 24x24x9 It's a Corsair Obsidain 800D - i think i got that right.
 
and its Water Cooled Ready!!!
Click to expand...


May I ask, what size radiator will fit with that reversed MB? Or with that case will you have to find a totally different rad location?

Is there room to put a 3x120 if you swap out the roof with a LL three-opening top?

 
Originally posted by: sparkuss
and its Water Cooled Ready!!!
Click to expand...


May I ask, what size radiator will fit with that reversed MB? Or with that case will you have to find a totally different rad location?

Is there room to put a 3x120 if you swap out the roof with a LL three-opening top?
Click to expand...

It has pre-fabbed holes for a 2x120 - the only problem is if you use it on the inside of the case, it'll take away one of the PCI or slots at that part of the board. Not only that but there will be other run-in problems IF you use the radiator on the inside of the case. You can, however, place the rad on top of the case: on the outside. The issue with it on the outside is the tubing holes are too close together for the above mentioned rad. You can get them to work but you'll have to bend the tubing. But do not let that be a deciding factor, the case is one :thumbsup: hell of a case!
 
Thanks,

Kinda what I expected after looking at the pictures again. If I weren't trying to plan ahead for "real quiet" water-cooling I'd be tempted. I really would prefer to have a buttoned up case with as little noise as possible. Hoping to get it as quiet as my Compusa LL PC-60 using Noctua case fans.
 
errrr IDC did u get all your questions answered?

I missed this thread.. >.<

Must of been when i was working my butt off.

Incase anyone didnt answer your two questions:

1. i took that thing off, the board is flipped when u install it, so yes that goes to the cpu.
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...orla/Wons/IMG_1277.jpg

2. i think those are 80mm fan slots. not 90mm.
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...orla/Wons/IMG_1275.jpg

Plug ur cpu fan into the front display and have it show the RPM like so:
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...orla/Wons/IMG_1280.jpg

It takes a standard analog temp probe also.

My cousin has his connected to a DDC tho, so we can see if the pump died or not and he can also inspect his coolant temperature..

Yeah i watered my cousin's rig... 😛


Its a wonderful case IDC, i was very happy to work with it when i was building my cousin's rig.

If u want water advice you know who to ask. 😛

Originally posted by: sparkuss
Thanks,

Kinda what I expected after looking at the pictures again. If I weren't trying to plan ahead for "real quiet" water-cooling I'd be tempted. I really would prefer to have a buttoned up case with as little noise as possible. Hoping to get it as quiet as my Compusa LL PC-60 using Noctua case fans.
Click to expand...

All you would need to do is change that red radiator to something a bit thicker meant for slower and quieter fans.
 
All you would need to do is change that red radiator to something a bit thicker meant for slower and quieter fans.
Click to expand...

Aigo,

Well I hadn't thought of ripping out the hard-drive cages. I'll have to tally up all my drives and see if that will leave me enough slots.

And I had just followed some threads on the new Feser TFC Xchanger - Monsta Extreme Radiator 420/360.

Hmmm, may have to do some measurementing.


Thanks for the pics.
 
Yeah the Monsta is def out of the question, but when you said taller and slower, I still had the TFC in mind, maybe the Feser Dual-240. If the 240 will fit tall wise, it could leave enough room on the floor to hardmount my pump(s) or reservoir to the fan hole side.

And are you pushing or pulling on that 320? I would prefer to push and then put some taller legs/wheels on the bottom to give some exhaust clearance.
 
Originally posted by: sparkuss
Yeah the Monsta is def out of the question, but when you said taller and slower, I still had the TFC in mind, maybe the Feser Dual-240. If the 240 will fit tall wise, it could leave enough room on the floor to hardmount my pump(s) or reservoir to the fan hole side.

And are you pushing or pulling on that 320? I would prefer to push and then put some taller legs/wheels on the bottom to give some exhaust clearance.
Click to expand...
i put rubber stoppers on the other side so it would have a slight lift.

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...orla/Wons/IMG_1277.jpg

Yes he has dual DDC's. 😛

The underside of the case has holes. So a little lift is all thats needed.

And i am pulling. I prefer getting cold fresh air from the bottom and let heat rise up.

Ummm IDC sorry i think we derailed your thread...

if you want i can move our posts to another thread.

Or you can start a new worklog and i'll make sure it doesnt get derailed.

Put worklog on the title, so i know to edit everyone else who trys to steal your light.

^ this applies to everyone who wants to start a worklog thread.
 
Okay now you've all got my credit card tingling.😀

Maybe in best case scenario,

This Black Pearl.

Feser 240 with Noctua NF-12s on the bottom with either single or dual Langs.

From another thread we're talking on, MB with full water block, and GPU water as well.

The only thing I'll have to make sure of is PSU fit and if those Optical cages will accept some nice vibration mounts. (I'm gonna run a new 300 Raptor and I still have a 150 and a 36, plus at least one Optical drive. That may not leave any room for any monitoring boxes (fan or flow).

It would really be nice if that Feser will run a single loop for an I920 and either a 4890/5870. If I have to go two loops in the Pearl I don't think there's enough room.

I just can't thank you all enough for the great pics to see how doable this rig might really be.

And also my apologies to IDC if I have gone on too long. My thanks as well for your effort that has inspired my next build.



 
No its cool Aigo, this wasn't really a worklog, just I figured I'd post my pics perchance it helps anyone else working on the wiring for their black pearl or maybe to help answer questions they might have about the case.

Carry-on, it was nice to see your pics of how you put water in the case. Thanks for sharing.
 
Originally posted by: sparkuss
Okay now you've all got my credit card tingling.😀

Maybe in best case scenario,

This Black Pearl.
Click to expand...

If i had to rebuild this computer i would use different parts because there are now more parts available then when i built that machine.

My Cart would look something simular to this:

Right now Jab-tech's server is being relocated so i cant link ya all the parts.
But it would look something simular to this:

Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Controler
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html

Promochill Typhoon III Bay Res.
^ this will be hard to find, which is why i recommended jab-tech.
http://skinneelabs.com/Pumps/D...I/Primochill-TIII.html

MCR320 <-- i love this rad, best budget/performance rad.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo3xbl.html

XSPC RX360 would come in next if ur budget was slightly larger to handle a 119 dollar rad. 😛
^another thing thats available at jab-tech.

You can probably fit a 360 down unless u had a long PSU.
If u have a Long PSU, you can always get a Lian Li PSU Extender, which allows you to pull your PSU back out a little.
http://www.performance-pcs.com...d=37&products_id=23950

(CPU Blocks can Vary depending on your budget.)
Swiftech GTZ is about average
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swapgtzexpew.html

Heat Killer (High) you probably need to goto sidewinders.com.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/heatkiller1366.html

My KooLance-350 is also considered a expensive block.

I wouldnt recomend it on a multi block loop tho, the HK would get my first vote if u had a large budget.

Gpu blocks would be dependent on your GPU card.

I would probably use Silver Barbs, and Run the system straight distilled H2O.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1trsi1fi.html

I would also pick masterkleer tubing until your 3rd or 4th build because chances are ur gonna get greedy and add something extra to the loop when your bored.
^ once again avilable at jab-tech.

And if u buy the expensive tubing, you'll cry when you cant recycle it. 😛

Common thing i tell people about water... whatever budget u decide on... most likely double it.
Because that's how much its gonna be after u finally decide on what u want.

All the things i listed minus the HK and KL-350 can be bought at jab-tech.
Which is why im recommending that store so u don't have to pay multipul shipping.

As for rad fans, noctuna's blow... and not in a good pun sense.
I would probably look at scythe gentle typhoons 1850RPM over the noctunas.

As for your hard drive location problem...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16817990003
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16817994028

That takes up 3 (for the 5hd capacity), the bay res takes 2, and leaves 1 for your optical.

Oh this is where people will say u got aigo'd btw. :X
 
Given the floor of that Pearl, are you dis-advising the option of the Feser 240? Based on the tech and the reviews, is that 320 going to be quieter than a Feser with Noctuas? I have no problem investing in topp(er)-line parts to get the quietest rig going. I've already spec'd a new I920 rig (CPU, MB, Mem, GFX, HDD) in the $1000-$1200 range. I wouldn't have a problem running $500 or so on top of that for water. With all the new stuff down the pike, I'd be glad to build the core components now, to take into all my future builds.

This is quantum leap time for me, finally moving from A64-4000+/S939.

The only reason fro the Noctuas was I thought I was reading better specs. I guess I need some more learning in that respect.

D1225C12B5AP-15 1,850 rpm 28 dBA 57.68062 CFM 0.083 StaticPre

Noctua SF-12B 1,200 rpm 18.1 dBa 100.6 M3/h 1.31 StaticPres

 
Originally posted by: aigomorla
Originally posted by: sparkuss
Okay now you've all got my credit card tingling.😀

Maybe in best case scenario,

This Black Pearl.
Click to expand...


As for your hard drive location problem...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16817990003
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16817994028

That takes up 3 (for the 5hd capacity), the bay res takes 2, and leaves 1 for your optical.

Oh this is where people will say u got aigo'd btw. :X
Click to expand...

I would not recommend the ICY DOCK for any computer you want to be quiet. It tends to rattle a lot.

 
IDC, I have a question for you.
In your pic here, it shows the CPU shroud mounted...albeit turned 90 degrees.
In your followup picture here, it's gone.
I see you're using a Tuniq Tower. Did you decide not to use it? In theory it seems kinda like a good idea if it'd work that way.
Also, any plans to go H2O w/this monster?
Looks good!
 
Personally I am not sure about this case. It is essentially the Lian Li PC-201B without a front door and with easier to remove lower hard drive cages (the Lian Li ones were not a full cage but two metal frames which were screwed into the bottom of the case and the middle divider wall that separates the lower chamber from the motherboard chamber). After living with the PC-201B for 2-3 years now, it really isn't as good as it should be. It looks like the Pearl might have fixed my biggest gripe, which is that I could not install my Tuniq Tower in the orientation that you have (I had to point the fan up) towards the video card/side exhaust fan which isn't that bad, but sucks considering how much better the airflow would work otherwise...might simply be my motherboard combo).

My other gripe has to do with cable lengths and management/routing, especially for SATA cables. There is no way to route them so that they are out of the airflow path due to how far the hard drives are from the motherboard and/or controller cards. I am using the max length SATA cables and they just reach (if you use the bottom hard drive slot). You really could use an extra six inches of slack to be able to move/bundle them out of the way.

If you need a big case, well, you won't find too many bigger (asside from the MountainMod Cubes). If they added the extra 1/2 inch (1cm) space between the bottom (well technically top since it is inverted) of the motherboard is located and the internal divider to accommodate large heatsinks, then this could be a really good case.
 
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