4 dead motherboards. Will Corsair just replace my HX620?

[lektrix]

I have had 4 DS3L motherboards die on me within 1.5 years.

Will Corsair replace my HX620 (under warranty)?

 

[BassBomb]

Is the PSU causing it?

 

[Quiksilver]

Originally posted by: BassBomb
Is the PSU causing it?

This.

 

[lektrix]

How do I prove that to them?

 

[Quiksilver]

Use a DMM and see if rails are out of spec?
Is it making any noises?

 

[lektrix]

I consider myself quite tech savvy, but I've just gone through 4 Gigabyte P35-DS3L motherboards within 1 year. My fourth one just died 2 days ago presumably from some blackout(s). Here are my specs, which I have not changed in over 1 year. In fact, the only change I've made was upgrading my PSU from an OCZ GameXstream 600W to a Corsair HX620!

Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L (4 of them)
Intel e6420 2.13 OCed to 3.2 (stable, tried & tested)
Crucial Ballistix 2x1GB DDR1066 (stock, running @ DDR800, default V)
EVGA 8800GTS 640MB
Corsair HX620
2 x WD Raptor 74GB
1 x Seagate 400GB
1 x WD 400GB
SB Audigy X-Fi
Windows XP Pro SP3 32b
-I do not have an APC UPS, but I use a surge protector

Timeline:

December 2007 - Bought the Corsair HX620

January 2008 - DS3L Board 1. Turned machine off, changed up some fan configuration in my case (I have 5 120mm fans in my Antec P180 and I was testing 5V/7V/12V to see which combo would give me a good combination of silence/performance). PC would never boot again.

June 12, 2008 - DS3L Board 2. I was browsing, MSN chatting and I suddenly hear a bang/pop. I see/smell smoke coming out from a capacitor on top of the CPU socket. Board dies.

June 27, 2008 - DS3L Board 3. Got it used but after a few days, I receive a "Bios Rom Checksum Error" message after POST and eventually I'm unable to boot. Board keeps rebooting indefinitely after 3-4 seconds and never enters Windows. I'm not sure what I did but I got it to stop rebooting but instead it would stay on a black screen and NOT POST.

January 12, 2008 - DS3L Board 4 (replacement board from Gigabyte for the blown caps which I ended up waiting for since Board 3 had bios problems). I left my PC on and during the middle of the night, we had 5-6 blackouts or more. I wake up in the morning and my PC would not boot. Took out battery for 12 hours, put CMOS jumper on for 5 minutes, still would not boot. PC just turns on and it stays on a black screen forever. I did the same thing again but this time I took everything apart and put the mobo on a box and just plugged in RAM, video, HDD, etc. but it's still a black screen. Board will not boot.

All my other components should be fine. I tried my video card, RAM on my cousin's PC, played some games for 2 hours and they worked. I tried my CPU, video card, RAM, PSU on my friend's PC (same DS3L) and it worked. However, his DS3L died 3 weeks later (summertime) :bigeyes:. I'm sure it was a coincidence but I don't know what to think anymore.

All I know is that ever since I got this new PSU, which was "supposedly" one of the best ones on the market, I've had 4 dead motherboards and 5 if you include my friend's.

I don't have the tools, nor the patience to test my PSU. After hearing about my computer problems (which I never really have until this past year), no one wants to put their hardware at risk. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the main culprit. Sure, one or two dead motherboards I'll let it go, but 4/5 dead motherboards within 1 year? You gotta be kidding me. I ain't buying Gigabyte again, but that don't mean my next motherboard won't die....

Somebody please help me.

 

[Quiksilver]

At what point did you change the OCZ PSU?
Also from the sounds of things and the amount of blackouts you have. You really should get a UPS...

 

[lektrix]

I bought the Corsair HX620 around Christmas time in December.

Before that, I was on my OCZ GameXstream 600 which was fine even through hard resets, blackouts, etc. I was even able to shut off my computer at night without fear that I would be unable to turn it on the next day (stupid cold boot issue).

 

[WaitingForNehalem]

Is the voltage for your CPU too high? Try running your rig with your OCZ Stealthxstream. For the hard drives you can either use molex adaptors or use less hard drives.

 

[Thraxen]

Could this not all just be a combo of bad luck and coincidence?

1st board: Kind of suspicious that it crapped out while you were messing around with voltages.

2nd board: Bad luck... random bad board.

3rd board: Buyer beware... used board.

4th board: Lots of blackouts. Honestly, unless your PC is doing something very important I would set it to not reboot after a power outage. If it is doing something important then get it on a UPS or at least a power conditioner. That sort of bad power is going to torture any computer.

 

[lektrix]

Originally posted by: WaitingForNehalem
Is the voltage for your CPU too high? Try running your rig with your OCZ Stealthxstream. For the hard drives you can either use molex adaptors or use less hard drives.

No, it's just under 1.35V and it's being cooled by a U190. I haven't played games in a while so temp shouldn't be a factor.

OCZ GameXstream has been sold. Don't have any other PSUs.

Originally posted by: Thraxen
Could this not all just be a combo of bad luck and coincidence?

1st board: Kind of suspicious that it crapped out while you were messing around with voltages.

2nd board: Bad luck... random bad board.

3rd board: Buyer beware... used board.

4th board: Lots of blackouts. Honestly, unless your PC is doing something very important I would set it to not reboot after a power outage. If it is doing something important then get it on a UPS or at least a power conditioner. That sort of bad power is going to torture any computer.

That's what I said when I got the same board for the 4th time. Now I'm not so sure, but I'm tempted to try the EP43-DS3L because it's the cheapest one on the market.

I've had blackouts before on my previous computers which probably had worse hardware but there were no problems. PC still ran fine.

I have a feeling it's the stupid DS3L cold boot bug that may have put my board to sleep indefinitely?

 

[beray]

Originally posted by: lektrix

No, it's just under 1.35V and it's being cooled by a U190. I haven't played games in a while so temp shouldn't be a factor.

OCZ GameXstream has been sold. Don't have any other PSUs.

That's too bad, the 600W OCZ GameXstream is a better PSU than the Corsair HX620 for your configuration.

Originally posted by: lektrix
That's what I said when I got the same board for the 4th time. Now I'm not so sure, but I'm tempted to try the EP43-DS3L because it's the cheapest one on the market.

I've had blackouts before on my previous computers which probably had worse hardware but there were no problems. PC still ran fine.

I have a feeling it's the stupid DS3L cold boot bug that may have put my board to sleep indefinitely?

If you can't change PSU, then avoid over-volting your memory and your mobo chipset completely, but over-volting your CPU is still OK.

This applies to your old mobos or the new mobo you plan to get, or your new mobo will die just like the old ones.

To avoid problems you need to avoid loading on 3.3V and 5V power rail. 3.3V and 5V power rail on the Corsair HX620 sucked ass.

 

[lektrix]

I guess I shouldn't have trusted a company known for making good memory products.

How the hell did the HX620 get such good ratings?

 

[beray]

Originally posted by: lektrix
I guess I shouldn't have trusted a company known for making good memory products.

How the hell did the HX620 get such good ratings?

Most internet trained PSU experts can't read nor comprehend literate PSU labels. Not able to recognize obvious and apparent sucked ass 3.3V and 5V power rail.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/New...mage/17-139-002-28.jpg

 

[BladeVenom]

-I do not have an APC UPS, but I use a surge protector

What brand/model is it? Is it one made specifically for computers?

 

[lektrix]

some APC 8 or 10 outlet, for PC and everything else i think

 

[lektrix]

Some are suggesting that my board could be shorting out due to the standoffs or screws from my case. One minor detail I left out in my original post is I also got a new Antec P180 case around the same time, before I got my HX620. I never would have realized that the case could be shorting out my boards. How the hell would that be possible? Is this an known issue with the P180?

 

[beray]

Originally posted by: lektrix
some APC 8 or 10 outlet, for PC and everything else i think

There's one thing you can do to improve your chances of surviving power outages greatly.

Go into your mobo bios, set the mobo not to power backup from power outages.

Generally when power came back on during outages, the power fluctuates. The effect is the same as if you flip the power switch on and off and on repeatedly twice per second. The whole house is blinking on and off, that is what usually kill computers during power outages.

People often tell you the worst stress on your computers is during power on or power off. Actually power blinking on and off is much worst. And it's really bad for sucked ass power rails.

 

[Yellowbeard]

Originally posted by: lektrix
Some are suggesting that my board could be shorting out due to the standoffs or screws from my case. One minor detail I left out in my original post is I also got a new Antec P180 case around the same time, before I got my HX620. I never would have realized that the case could be shorting out my boards. How the hell would that be possible? Is this an known issue with the P180?

Our customer service goal is to make sure that you are satisfied. So, if you believe your Corsair PSU to be defective in this instance, we will replace it. Honestly, I don't think the PSU is your issue but, replacing it will be a good way to eliminate it as a variable.

RMA LINK: http://www.corsair.com/helpdesk/default.aspx

 

[Quiksilver]

Originally posted by: beray

Originally posted by: lektrix

No, it's just under 1.35V and it's being cooled by a U190. I haven't played games in a while so temp shouldn't be a factor.

OCZ GameXstream has been sold. Don't have any other PSUs.

That's too bad, the 600W OCZ GameXstream is a better PSU than the Corsair HX620 for your configuration.

As far as I am concerned and thousands of others people; they are equal for the most part.

You need to look beyond the group regulated designs vs independently designs 99% of the time your not going to be able to tell a difference if everything is in ATX spec and isn't loading up to a load testing machine.

 

[lektrix]

Originally posted by: beray

Originally posted by: lektrix
some APC 8 or 10 outlet, for PC and everything else i think

There's one thing you can do to improve your chances of surviving power outages greatly.

Go into your mobo bios, set the mobo not to power backup from power outages.

Generally when power came back on during outages, the power fluctuates. The effect is the same as if you flip the power switch on and off and on repeatedly twice per second. The whole house is blinking on and off, that is what usually kill computers during power outages.

People often tell you the worst stress on your computers is during power on or power off. Actually power blinking on and off is much worst. And it's really bad for sucked ass power rails.

I'll try to find that option when I get my new board.

Originally posted by: Yellowbeard

Originally posted by: lektrix
Some are suggesting that my board could be shorting out due to the standoffs or screws from my case. One minor detail I left out in my original post is I also got a new Antec P180 case around the same time, before I got my HX620. I never would have realized that the case could be shorting out my boards. How the hell would that be possible? Is this an known issue with the P180?

Our customer service goal is to make sure that you are satisfied. So, if you believe your Corsair PSU to be defective in this instance, we will replace it. Honestly, I don't think the PSU is your issue but, replacing it will be a good way to eliminate it as a variable.

RMA LINK: http://www.corsair.com/helpdesk/default.aspx

thanks, is it possible for you guys to send me a new psu first?

 

[beray]

Originally posted by: Quiksilver
As far as I am concerned and thousands of others people; they are equal for the most part.

You, some other PSU experts, and the masses are ignorant of basic fundamental voltage regulation in Voltage Regulated Power Supply.

Originally posted by: Quiksilver
You need to look beyond the group regulated designs vs independently designs 99% of the time your not going to be able to tell a difference if everything is in ATX spec and isn't loading up to a load testing machine.

You don't need to look elsewhere for a difference but what already stated clearly in the label... Assuming you can read and comprehend the obvious and apparent sucked ass 3.3V and 5V rail clearly stated on the label.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/New...mage/17-139-002-28.jpg

Here's one below that don't have sucked ass 3.3V and 5V rail...

http://c1.neweggimages.com/New...mage/17-139-004-23.jpg

 

[Yellowbeard]

lektrix, any advanced replacement would have to come thru customer service. Once you get an RMA number, contact CS to see what they have to offer.

As far as the discussion of the relative merits of certain PSUs and their voltage regulation, could we please take that discussion elsewhere? It's not really helping the OP here.

Corsair Contact Page: http://www.corsairmemory.com/company/contacts.aspx

 

[Quiksilver]

Originally posted by: beray

Originally posted by: Quiksilver
As far as I am concerned and thousands of others people; they are equal for the most part.

You, some other PSU experts, and the masses are ignorant of basic fundamental voltage regulation in Voltage Regulated Power Supply.

Originally posted by: Quiksilver
You need to look beyond the group regulated designs vs independently designs 99% of the time your not going to be able to tell a difference if everything is in ATX spec and isn't loading up to a load testing machine.

You don't need to look elsewhere for a difference but what already stated clearly in the label... Assuming you can read and comprehend the obvious and apparent sucked ass 3.3V and 5V rail clearly stated on the label.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/New...mage/17-139-002-28.jpg

Here's one below that don't have sucked ass 3.3V and 5V rail...

http://c1.neweggimages.com/New...mage/17-139-004-23.jpg

Sigh....
I'm just dropping it.

 

[beray]

Originally posted by: Yellowbeard
lAs far as the discussion of the relative merits of certain PSUs and their voltage regulation, could we please take that discussion elsewhere? It's not really helping the OP here.

The dude(dudette) had an obvious and apparent sucked ass 3.3V and 5V rail PSU causing problems, serious mobo dying problems (but not obvious enough and apparent enough to other "PSU experts", only plenty obvious and apparent to "PSU JOE AVERAGE").

Learning to recognize sucked ass 3.3V and 5V rail PSUs, preventing repeated mobo dying problems isn't helpful to the OP? Now is not a good time, perhaps after the next fifth new mobo dies then the OP would find it more useful?

Maybe some real GIGABYTE power specialist EEs (GIGABYTE does also do power supplies) should be here pointing out where I am wrong about the obvious and apparent sucked ass 3.3V and 5V power rail on the PSU label. GIGABYTE is the one getting the shaft for it... 4 times already besides the added problem like below.

"I don't have the tools, nor the patience to test my PSU. After hearing about my computer problems (which I never really have until this past year), no one wants to put their hardware at risk. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the main culprit. Sure, one or two dead motherboards I'll let it go, but 4/5 dead motherboards within 1 year? You gotta be kidding me. I ain't buying Gigabyte again, but that don't mean my next motherboard won't die.... "