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3.05GHz on Air: Update (Now inside a case with CNPS9500)

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Stability is a relative term, but 1+ hour testing doesn't mean squat IMHO. Nice chip though, definately has potential.
 
Hmm.. If you make "fake" screenshots to show a overclock, you need to move on with your life!

This obviously is not intended at you Lopri.

Nice overclock though, on some nice voltage.

I agree 100%
 
How are your temps so low? 47C load? I was on water with my 165 @2600Mhz at 1.45Vcore and registerd that high. That's why I got rid of it - big cache chips - too hot for my loop..
 
Originally posted by: Zebo
How are your temps so low? 47C load? I was on water with my 165 @2600Mhz at 1.45Vcore and registerd that high. That's why I got rid of it - big cache chips - too hot for my loop..


What does your loop consist of Zebo? I get load temps in the 39-40C range at 1.49V. Some Opterons do run hotter than others though.
 
BIP III and 3 x 120mm Nexus @ 7V on her. Setup for silence....a GTX and CPU in loop.... but I still think it would cool better than air... meh could be mobo sensor too. I don't read much into temps anyway - just asking.

What was ambeint?
 
Zebo: In your opinion what is the best 2 x 120mm rad you can get. On a 1/2 barb/tubing?

Also what is better cross flow rad?s or normal ones?

Sorry for the questions in this thread, just looking to buy very soon.
 
Originally posted by: Zebo
BIP III and 3 x 120mm Nexus @ 7V on her. Setup for silence....a GTX and CPU in loop.... but I still think it would cool better than air... meh could be mobo sensor too. I don't read much into temps anyway - just asking.

What was ambeint?

Wow, that looks nice. Probably just the mobo sensor like you mentioned.

My ambient temps are ~68-70F or 20-21C.

Originally posted by: RichUK
Zebo: In your opinion what is the best 2 x 120mm rad you can get. On a 1/2 barb/tubing?

Also what is better cross flow rad?s or normal ones?

Sorry for the questions in this thread, just looking to buy very soon.

Sorry, I know you asked for Zebo's advice (which is much better than mine, I'm sure) but for my .02 I love my 2-302 heatercore. Cost me $24 and than I had a friend sweat some 1/2" ends (got these at a plumbing store for $1 apiece) onto the barbs that I had previously shortened with a hacksaw. Inexpensive and works great. Seems to be what a lot of the guys over at XS are using.
 
Thanks Elfear: With regards to that heater core you are using, do you have any links to it? 🙂

Also does it supply better performance than a normal 2 x 120mm rad?

Many thanks.
 
Swiftech w/o question. It's amazing.
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR220-qp.asp

There is a lot of theory on low flow rad design put into it I read about in procooling - anyway I tried it and it cools better than most tripple rads with three fans. Got it on sons rig - fans controlled by mobo header on DFI and fans hardy ever spin up even when gaming!!! Quietest build I've ever made. only has two fans in whole system - the rad fans - and they are @ ~5-7V all the time.



Rear fan is disabled and sesonic 600W makes no noise... this setup is silent.

144@2.8 and 7800GT at something, I forget.
 
Thanks for the info Zebo 🙂

That case setup is SHWEET for you kid :thumbsup: Same case as mine (mines in black). I like what you have done with the floor of the case with ventilation holes nice idea. Also with your rad installation that is the same thing I am going to attempt (top installation). A few beers to steady the hands when using a jigsaw to saw the rad holes at the top is in order I thinks 😛 Or did you use a Dremel?

That res you are using looks quite neat too, may I ask what make etc that is.
 
Grill is "radgrillz" -$18
Res is swiftech too $18
HD "suspecsion" is surgical tubing.
Pump is eheim 1048 on a custom made foamy cusion to kill vibration. (this you can not hear- i 've tried all those fancy watercooling pumps - all are louder than I like)
-fans are nexus 120mm's (Yate loon sleeved low speeds)


Dremel? fun "toy" but I used a mans tool - a cut off tool connected to a 90 gallon air compressor.😛 Took about 2 min to make the cuts for radiator.

Holes are 5/16th's and beveled if you can tell. Looks more "factory" that way.
 
Originally posted by: Zebo
Grill is "radgrillz" -$18
Res is swiftech too $18
HD "suspecsion" is surgical tubing.
Pump is eheim 1048 on a custom made foamy cusion to kill vibration. (this you can not hear- i 've tried all those fancy watercooling pumps - all are louder than I like)
-fans are nexus 120mm's (Yate loon sleeved low speeds)


Dremel? fun "toy" but I used a mans tool - a cut off tool connected to a 90 gallon air compressor.😛 Took about 2 min to make the cuts for radiator.

Holes are 5/16th's and beveled if you can tell. Looks more "factory" that way.

Hahaha quality. Big boy sh!t 😛

Thanks for the info, its appreciated as I have the same case and need some ideas.

I like the idea of the holes in the base of the case but don?t think I would fancy drilling all of them myself :shocked:
 
Originally posted by: RichUK
Thanks Elfear: With regards to that heater core you are using, do you have any links to it? 🙂

Also does it supply better performance than a normal 2 x 120mm rad?

Many thanks.


The heatercore I'm using is from a '77 Bonneville w/AC. You can pick it up at most any parts store.

Here is a very good sticky over at XS. Maxxracer is a VERY knowledgable person when it come to watercooling components.

It's worth reading through some of the posts in the Watercooling Forum. Radiators/heatercores are discussed extensively there.
 
Originally posted by: Elfear
Originally posted by: RichUK
Thanks Elfear: With regards to that heater core you are using, do you have any links to it? 🙂

Also does it supply better performance than a normal 2 x 120mm rad?

Many thanks.


The heatercore I'm using is from a '77 Bonneville w/AC. You can pick it up at most any parts store.

Here is a very good sticky over at XS. Maxxracer is a VERY knowledgable person when it come to watercooling components.

It's worth reading through some of the posts in the Watercooling Forum. Radiators/heatercores are discussed extensively there.

Thanks for the links, im a bit of a water cooling noob as you might have guessed 😱 But love a bit of DIY all the same. 😀

Lol i am a member of XS and i have never even noticed that forum i usually just head into the AMD forum haha.

Thanks ill give them a good read.
 
It's really easy Rich..

Just take apart the case - I mean take everything out.

Tape bottom of case with masking tape

Then you mark of holes every 1mm with a fine tip marker.

Then use a nail screw, or hole punch and tap each mark where you marked so drill does'nt slide.

Proceed with drilling.


The idea here was the stock front intake deos'nt provide enough air inlets for the 2 x 120 rad fans to suck properly..You've seen them like small little dinky holes.... needed more access to air. What a better place than pulling cold air from the bottom over board, cooling that and ram sinks, then up though rad.

Rear fan is covered with a peice of ABS so air must pull from bottom - both PSU's 120mm and the two rad fans must pull from bottom.

Works quite well, like BTX concept really... I may be building a black one soon for my next 165. Stay tuned.
 
Originally posted by: Elfear
Originally posted by: RichUK
Thanks Elfear: With regards to that heater core you are using, do you have any links to it? 🙂

Also does it supply better performance than a normal 2 x 120mm rad?

Many thanks.


The heatercore I'm using is from a '77 Bonneville w/AC. You can pick it up at most any parts store.

Here is a very good sticky over at XS. Maxxracer is a VERY knowledgable person when it come to watercooling components.

It's worth reading through some of the posts in the Watercooling Forum. Radiators/heatercores are discussed extensively there.


Heater cores kinda suck. I used 3-232 and bonniville cores in older setups.. too thick. much noise...too ineffecient.

Pennywise and pound foolish.

It's much better to get right tool for the job - Swiftys rads were disgined from ground up for watercooling.

Besides can you say "Ghetto mods" No thanks If I have to live with something it better look nice - call me shallow but lifes too short not to.
 
Zebo:

Yeah i really like the idea of the intake holes in the bottom of the case, and i can see the logic behind it too, as the intake holes at the front with the 2x80mm fans are a joke. Nice idea I?ve never seen this done before. :thumbsup:

After toying with the idea for some months now, i have done quite a bit of research and fancy a little project, much like this proposed water setup. Upgrading to new hardware loses it?s novelty quite quickly, having a project on the other hand should be quite fulfilling.

I have already placed a pre-order for the new DFI eXpert ?Venus? special edition to go with my opty and TCCD sticks, and have been loving the idea of water cooling and silencing the whole case for some time.

I might have to give that idea go with drilling the holes in the bottom. I suppose its pretty hard to mess it up.

I?ll let you know how it goes when I start and finish. 🙂


 
I removed those 2x80s up front...worthless in this setup...Hey PM me if you have any questions we've spammed up this thread to much already talking about water cooling -

sorry lopri🙂

Back to your sweet OC.
 
Originally posted by: Zebo
How are your temps so low? 47C load? I was on water with my 165 @2600Mhz at 1.45Vcore and registerd that high. That's why I got rid of it - big cache chips - too hot for my loop..

I find different steppings with different characteristics. This stepping seems a bit cooler than others but not very responsive to voltages. (Well, with 1000MHz OC @stock vcore it's nothing to complain about, though) For example, I find 0546XPMW more responsive to voltages. And here is my setup 😀

http://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=setup1ft.jpg
 
I wish i had the space to do an open setup like that, looks like it'd be nice and easy to work on.

BTW, we all know the main secret to big clocks is opening the window right 🙂
 
Lucky guy 😛. I got a Opty 165 and it got to 2.2Ghz before crapping out. Tried all voltages up to 1.6V. Didn't do any good. Gave it to my dad and took his opty 144 and overclocked it to 2.8GHz.
 
Originally posted by: Zebo
Grill is "radgrillz" -$18
Res is swiftech too $18
HD "suspecsion" is surgical tubing.
Pump is eheim 1048 on a custom made foamy cusion to kill vibration. (this you can not hear- i 've tried all those fancy watercooling pumps - all are louder than I like)
-fans are nexus 120mm's (Yate loon sleeved low speeds)


Dremel? fun "toy" but I used a mans tool - a cut off tool connected to a 90 gallon air compressor.😛 Took about 2 min to make the cuts for radiator.

Holes are 5/16th's and beveled if you can tell. Looks more "factory" that way.


Zebo, you haven't seen a man's tool 'till you've seen my 4000W cutting laser 😉
 
The CPU is now in my main rig as well as the board. I finally ditched the A8N-SLI Premium. After a while of thought, I mated the CPU with Zalman CNPS9500. While not as good a performer as the TT Big Typhoon, I thought the BT is somewhat too heavy for the board layout (CPU in the middle), and I'm getting a window panel for my Lian-Li V1000. So esthetic side played a role, too. The max dual Prime95 stable clock inside the case looks to be 9 x 330 = 2970MHz. I was able to get 339 HTT from my board for dual SuperPI 32M. Generally my board starts giving me troubles past 335 HTT.

Here is the dual 32M shot.
http://img386.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3050dualsuperpi32m8cg.jpg

 
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