Zap's mini review: Lian Li Lancool PC-K7B

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
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I have been using my Antec Solo case for a while and really like it. However, I wanted to upgrade the video card and none of the powerful ones (such as the GTX 260 Maxcore I choose) would fit inside the Solo. Thus, I spent several hours researching a replacement case. What was looking for in a case was that it needs to be mostly black, have great ventilation and have some "quiet" features. I've decided the new case can be "noisier" than the Antec Solo because now that I'm finished with school, more of my computing time will be of the noise producing variety (gaming, music) and less of the quiet studying variety.

I settled on the LIAN LI Lancool PC-K7B Aluminum/ SECC ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

I got it from Newegg for $75.98 ("Special holiday savings from Lian Li, while supplies last") plus around $22 shipping. Couldn't find it cheaper elsewhere.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS:

The case is packed in a full color cardboard box with standard styrofoam and plastic bag around the case. This is unlike more expensive cases that have cushier or thicker padding. The cardboard box also had two straps around it.

I picked up the case and thought, "no way this cost Newegg $22 to ship it." It was so light! Probably less than half the weight of the Antec NSK3480 cases I got in the day before.

The Lancool PC-K7B is a smallish tower in that there is no wasted space inside the case. The case is as tall as the motherboard and power supply, and is as deep as a long video card, hard drive and front bezel. The removable motherboard tray is definately wider than a normal ATX board, but is just short of accepting an EATX board.

The Lancool series of cases is Lian Li's foray into using both aluminum and steel in case manufacturing. The exterior is finished in aluminum anodized in black, including the front bezel (which pops off like all other Lian Li cases). The aluminum panels are rather thin, maybe 0.8mm. This is reminiscent of the cheaper Lian Li all-aluminum cases such as the PC-7 series. The chassis itself is made of SECC, which is basically galvanized steel. I'm guessing the thickness is 0.7mm or 0.6mm because my Antec Solo case is 0.8mm and this is definately thinner/lighter.

AIRFLOW:

Airflow is a concern to anyone building a modern gaming rig. The Lancool does not disappoint. There are two 120mm fans for intake and a single 120mm fan for exhaust in a classic bottom-front to top-rear configuration. Besides what might exhaust through the power supply, the expansion slot blanks are all vented and there are vents next to the expansion slots. There are no vents on either side panel, nor top panel.

This may seem unbalanced, but is actually a smart design intended to give positive air pressure inside the case. This means all incoming air must go through the front, which of course has two filters (one per fan). This is the best way to have effective dust filtering.

The rear fan has a grill on the interior made out of stamped aluminum. I plan to remove that ASAP, because it is more restrictive than a wire finger guard. The chassis has a stamped out grill similar in design to those on Antec cases, meaning that they are really good as far as stamped out grills, but I'd rather have a complete opening with wire finger guard similar to other Lian Li cases and some Silverstone cases.

The front bezel is perforated for intake air. While it should be effective, I would have rather it be a more open design, or even side venting like in Antec cases (reduces noise). Once the bezel is off, the front fans can be seen through individual snap-on filters. These fans (plus the rear fan) have both 3 pin and 4 pin plugs. These fans are replaceable, but to do so you must unscrew them from the front after removing bezel and filters, and then remove them from the rear. Behind the fans are the five HDD bays. These bays will have to be removed via four screws from the bottom of the case and four from the front. Then you can remove the fans.

Speaking of the drive bays, these are the most "open" I've ever seen, meaning you'll have plenty of airflow.

FEATURES:

As already mentioned, the motherboard tray is removable. To do so, remove two thumbscrews in the back and slide the tray forward a bit, then tilt it and it comes loose. Not a complete tray including the rear expansion slots, but better than nothing for those who find it difficult to install a motherboard inside a case.

The motherboard tray has two open slots for cables to pass through (similar to Antec 900), plus two wire cable holders on the back.

The three optical drive bays have a toolless feature that might be the simplest as well as the best design I've seen. No twisting a flimsy plastic knob, or sliding a flimsy plastic lever like other toolless designs. This is simply a flexible plastic flap with two pins that go into the screw holes at one end of your drive. I wouldn't ship a computer with drives mounted this way, but it should be good otherwise.

Speaking of drives mounted, the hard drive bays use special screws and grommets mounted on your hard drive, and then your hard drive is slid into place. The grommets should help keep the case from vibrating too badly from HDD activity (worse on lightweight cases with thin panels like this) but they aren't as thick or soft as the excellent white silicone grommets found in recent Antec cases such as the Solo. Drives are mounted from the "rear" of the drive cage (motherboard tray side). There is also a hole for a screw, which would hard-mount the drive, but would be necessary if you ever decide to ship or even transport your system. The reason is that if the case is on its side or turned upside down, your hard drives can fall out. :Q Basically they seem to sit in there from gravity.

For those who use external water coolers like those from Koolance or Zalman, there are two punch-outs just above the rear fan for water tubes. Basic, but serviceable.

The front ports and power/reset buttons are located on the front top of the case, facing upwards just above the optical drives. This is a good configuration for those who keep the computer on the ground. One problem I've noticed for most cases like this is that some of the cables aren't long enough to reach headers on certain motherboards. I guess I'll find out once I put this together.

FINAL IMPRESSIONS:

IMO this is a good $75 case, though it would be merely mediocre at full price. On the plus side it is very compact for being able to hold really large components, has great airflow and the exterior looks great. On the down side, the case has a cheap, flimsy feel to it. Just handling the case made me cringe as I heard various bits of metal buzzing and resonating. All the rear expansion slot blanks buzz, and the motherboard tray does a bit since it is a slide in and isn't held except at the rear. I just hope that the HDD grommets are effective.

PICTURES:

picture of box and instructions
I've never seen a case come packed with such extensive installation instructions.

picture of back of motherboard tray
The slots are for cabling to go through and the wire clips can hold cabling down.

picture of front
I took off one of the fan filters. The pairs of screws on either side of the top fan are half of the screws holding the HDD bay in.

picture of rear
Lots of passive ventilation that's good for a positive air pressure setup. I was tapping the case here and there, and the ventilated expansion slot blanks are what causes almost all of the rattling noises.

picture of optical drive bays
Those plastic tabs are the "toolless" clips. Below is the top of the HDD bay. An extra HDD can fit there, though you would need to drill holes.

picture of rear fan & PSU tray
I plan to remove the fan grill as it doesn't serve much purpose IMO. The PSU tray is vented for the PSU fan.

PLANNED BUILD:

Lian Li Lancool PC-K7B case
BFG ES-800 power supply
some old Benq EIDE DVD burner
MSI P35 Neo2 motherboard
Core 2 Quad Q9450 with some random overclock
Scythe Ninja heatsink with 120mm fan
random 4GB RAM (got way too much to choose from, damn those hot deals)
BFG GTX 260 OC Maxcore (216 cores)
VelociRaptor 300GB
some random data drive or drives (1TB, 1.5TB, whatever)

I was originally thinking of doing two Raptor X in RAID, 8GB RAM and Vista 64, but my scanner (which I use pretty regularly) will not work with Vista.

I don't like the SATA port layout on the motherboard because half of the Southbridge ports will be blocked by the video card, but my other motherboard is an MSI P7N SLI Platinum and CPU overclocking was not anywhere close to the P35 board.

I have all the parts and will probably start building next week, as I will be leaving town in about two hours and won't be back until Sunday night.

picture of parts I have to choose from

11/11/08 EDIT:

PICTORIAL BUILD:

I like testing parts outside of case

Case with PSU installed

Motherboard side, starting to route cabling

Motherboard side, cabling routed

Motherboard installed

HDD with screw and grommet

HDD installed

Great pic of how HDD attaches
It actually holds the HDD more securely than I thought it would, but I still would be VERY careful when moving the system, and I would NEVER ship it this way.

Pretty much all together

Front and one side installed, everything inside hooked up

Here it is!

There's actually going to be one more drive in there, plus a couple temporary drives for data transferring from old machine.

The noise level isn't too terrible. Remember, I'm coming from an Antec Solo with passive cooling, suspended hard drives and undervolted Yate Loon fan. That build was completely inaudible when sitting at my desk with the system underneath the desk. The new build boots with a high pitched but not loud noise (coil whine?) from around the video card, which goes away in a few seconds. After that all I hear is the whoosh of 120mm fans. In fact, I think my 120mm CPU fan is the loudest part of the new system. It is only 3 pin, so the motherboard was unable to control the speed and thus it runs full speed.
 

Zepper

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May 1, 2001
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Zap wrote:
"because now that I'm finished with school," - I hope you meant "finished with formal schooling". Intelligent people never stop their learning. Not the least reason to continue is that a lot of what you may have learned in school isn't true. I just saw a documentary about the recent elections by a Finnish crew showing a 3rd or 4th grade teacher propagandizing her students for Obama. You'll at least have to learn how to use logic and reason and how to evaluate evidence so you can find out for yourself what is true as these life skills are no longer taught in schools (except maybe some private ones). You have to really dig to find useful related courses in colleges (most are at the abstract level rather than for practical application) and you'd almost have to know the basics of it to determine which of those courses would be useful.

. Now back to the topic at hand... The K7 is a roomy case and is well ventilated for an L-L case. But the aluminum skin can be rattley. IDK why the PCI slot plates would be rattley, most I get these days are the snap-in type which can be tightened. The non-snap in types can usually be tightened by closing the angle at the top a bit. If card locks are used instead of screws, you'd have to use screws instead to insure tightness. Various insulating materials can help the aluminum panels.

The shipping cost is by "volumetric weight" (aka density) not just weight alone. For example, the Rocketfish Full Tower case has a gross weight of around 26 pounds, but because of the size of the package relative to the wt., you'll pay as if you had sent 54 pounds gross wt. in the same size box. The Acer or AOpen collapsible case makes (or made) very good use of its box volume (IDK if it's still being made or not).

It would be difficult to create positive pressure in a case with so much superfluous venting at the rear. As usual, I'd block all the slot plates and the venting above the card slot area to see what actual effect it has on cooling. OTOH, with dual front fans, air might actually exit all that venting instead of just it's creating a short cut for air to the rear fan. The rear fan's inside grill seemed quite restrictive to me though quite nice looking. I took it off while I had my RFFT here. The K7 is a lot like an RFFT's baby brother with not as much superfluous venting (almost the whole bottom of the RFFT is perforated)...

Oh yeah. LL uses M3 screws for most everything. So if you're willing to get a #6 tap, you can fix the card slot holes to take the standard case screws with the phillips/hex combo heads. Those will hold cards or cover plates much more tightly than the M3 pan heads that come with the case..

.bh.
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
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Originally posted by: Zepper
I hope you meant "finished with formal schooling". Intelligent people never stop their learning.

Absolutely! At this point in life I'm done with "formal"schools. I figure a master's degree is good enough for me. Of course that's what I said after I got my bachelors, and look where I am today. :D My grandmother, rest her soul, was a student to the end. She had two PhD degrees! Unusual for women at the time (WWII era). Even in her 80s she took classes of interest at the local community college, though her most recent formal degree was from around 1940!

With the Lancool case, I'll see how quiet I can make it. Remember, I'm coming from an Antec Solo which, until recently, had a passively cooled CPU and GPU and had HDDs in the bungee cord mounts. If I can get it reasonably quiet, I'll be content. My wife's computer is in a Lian Li PC-7BW and it was never as quiet as my Solo, but the only time I'd consider it loud was on first POST when the video card fan spins up 100% for a while.
 
Apr 17, 2003
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Zap, I've been thinking about buying this case because from every review I have read, it seems to be built very well for wire management. Can you comment? Possible to get some pics? The coolermaster ATSC 840 is my ideal case but I think I have to wait a while before I can drop $250 on a case.
 

CrystalBay

Platinum Member
Apr 2, 2002
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Excellent review for a boy from from Brawley.!!!

That looks like good cooling in the front and ample rear cooling . The top mounted IOs are not my favs , though nice price for sure.
 

Zap

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Oct 13, 1999
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I'll try to get some pics.

And I'm not from Brawley.

I worked there.

I'm from El Centro. :eek:
 

Tullphan

Diamond Member
Jul 27, 2001
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Zap, is this your first LL case?
You mentioned it had a cheap, flimsy feel to it so I was curious how it would compare to other LL cases.
I know the 2 Coolermaster cases i've owned seemed cheap-made...the Stacker 832 & the RC 690 (which can be somewhat forgiven since it was cheap to begin with).
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
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OP updated with pics.

This is not my first Lian Li case. My wife has a PC-7BW and I've also worked on other cases such as the PC-60. The PC-7BW is flimsy for a Lian Li case as well, IMO. When I say "flimsy Lian Li case" I mean that it doesn't use thick aluminum like more expensive Lian Li cases. These "flimsy" cases are not going to fall apart.
 

scruffypup

Senior member
Feb 3, 2006
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Zap,... positive airflow does not always lead to better dust management,... that is very dependent on other variables as well,... and in some ways positive airflow can lead to less control over airflow patterns inside the case ultimately leading to less efficient cooling.

To Zeppers reply,.. I don't think it there is an issue with positive airflow here due to various vents,.. it still looks overall positive airflow in this design, though not of great pressure. I do like the vents in pci slots and such as they offer alternatives if needed,... since I have numerous misc parts like the pci slots without vents, or good ol packing tape to cover. I actually prefer a new look which if I have these pci slot covers for misc parts,.. an option for whatever down the road!!!!


Side note,.. a "school" is referred to as a place of formal learning, so you don't obtain more "schooling" after they leave a "formal schooling" environment. In the same token, by attending "formal schooling" one is not guaranteed of learning. Also, even with the naysayers of public education, the point of the education system is not to necessarily make an individual into a genuis, (there are many reasons why that would never work if it were the end goal), but it is in much part a way to impart some knowledge, but even more so, a way of developing minds to think,... (Zepper you tried to make a point, but you could have used more education here - just following your thought - with more of it!!!).


EDIT: I got off topic,... nice and decent review ZAP thanks!!! I found it worthwhile!
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
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Originally posted by: Corporate Thug


That's just teh sex. Can't wait to see the wire management.

LOL!

So far I've tested out the board and have a preliminary overclock (mild one to 3.2GHz). I have the CPU, Scythe Ninja heatsink and the RAM (4GB OCZ SLI) mounted and tested outside the case with the video card and PSU. Then I mounted the PSU and have started routing power cables. At this point I decided to play COD4 for a few hours online, haha.

Next step is to mount the board. I'm going to do it inside the case because I want to run the front panel audio cable underneath the motherboard. The reason is that the headers are on the bottom left corner of the board (as it stands in the tower) so it won't reach unless I do this or run it on top of the board. I'll get more pics after I get everything in there.
 

Zap

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Oct 13, 1999
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*BUMP*

PICTORIAL BUILD:

I like testing parts outside of case

Case with PSU installed

Motherboard side, starting to route cabling

Motherboard side, cabling routed

Motherboard installed

HDD with screw and grommet

HDD installed

Great pic of how HDD attaches
It actually holds the HDD more securely than I thought it would, but I still would be VERY careful when moving the system, and I would NEVER ship it this way.

Pretty much all together

Front and one side installed, everything inside hooked up

Here it is!

There's actually going to be one more drive in there, plus a couple temporary drives for data transferring from old machine.

The noise level isn't too terrible. Remember, I'm coming from an Antec Solo with passive cooling, suspended hard drives and undervolted Yate Loon fan. That build was completely inaudible when sitting at my desk with the system underneath the desk. The new build boots with a high pitched but not loud noise (coil whine?) from around the video card, which goes away in a few seconds. After that all I hear is the whoosh of 120mm fans. In fact, I think my 120mm CPU fan is the loudest part of the new system. It is only 3 pin, so the motherboard was unable to control the speed and thus it runs full speed.
 

Zepper

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May 1, 2001
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Re shipping K7 and any other L-L case with this type of HDD rack. The cases come with a set of screws and extra holes in the rack just for holding the drives in place during transport, but many may have to remove the rack to put the screws in on the right side (on the K7 and similar).

.bh.
 

Zap

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Oct 13, 1999
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Yes, I noted this in my first pre-edit post, "There is also a hole for a screw, which would hard-mount the drive, but would be necessary if you ever decide to ship."
 

Tullphan

Diamond Member
Jul 27, 2001
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Originally posted by: Zap
OP updated with pics.

This is not my first Lian Li case. My wife has a PC-7BW and I've also worked on other cases such as the PC-60. The PC-7BW is flimsy for a Lian Li case as well, IMO. When I say "flimsy Lian Li case" I mean that it doesn't use thick aluminum like more expensive Lian Li cases. These "flimsy" cases are not going to fall apart.

I was just curious as to how it would compare to my V1000B as far as construction goes.
 

ShockwaveVT

Senior member
Dec 13, 2004
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Great review and informative photos! My take is that Lian Li scrimped a bit on materials but the overall design is very good and well executed. Good layout, good ventilation, great wire management, compact without being cramped, can hold tons of drives.

Zap if its more to your liking, you can rotate the HDD cage 180 degrees so they load from the "normal" (left) side.

This case has long lingered in the back of my mind as something I'd like to use for the basis for a new build. Much to my chagrin, my 3 year old Lian Li PC-A10 hasn't failed me yet, my brothers PC-60 was up to the task of housing his rebuilt system, and when I was putting together a small server, I couldn't justify $100 shipped for this case when I had a perfectly good Rosewill R6A laying around...
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
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Originally posted by: ShockwaveVT
Zap if its more to your liking, you can rotate the HDD cage 180 degrees so they load from the "normal" (left) side.

Actually you can insert a drive from either side and have the cables come out either side. It is just "easier" from the back.
 
Jan 22, 2007
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Is it possible to change the two intake fans for regular 25mm ones such as Scythe S-Flex or Yate Loon D12SL? I ask this because I've read the front fans are actually 15mm thick ones so I would require some modding to swap the fans.

If you can't change them without modding the HDD Bay, can you try to undervolt them and give us a review of how it goes?

Thank you!
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
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The front fans are "normal" 120x25mm. They can be replaced by removing the HDD bay. I don't know where you heard that they used 15mm thick fans, but I don't think that size is even made. Thinnest I've heard of a 120mm fan is 20mm.

Undervolting the stock fans will of course reduce noise, but also reduce airflow. This is a given with any fan, whether Yate Loon or the stock Lian Li. I don't have the measuring equipment to determine how they compare, so I don't think I can give a solid answer regarding this.

My only suggestion would be to try out the stock fans. Why not? It won't cost you any extra. If you aren't happy with them, then replace them. (Kind of like audio - use onboard sound and if you aren't happy with the output, then buy a sound card.)
 

Zap

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Oct 13, 1999
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I think the reviewers are just complete twats. :evil:

If you look at their enlarged picture, you see that the fan just about butts against the drive cage. Looks pretty thin, right? Well, the thing is that most of the fan is hidden by the folded edge of the chassis. If the reviewer had actually bothered to measure the fan (as I just did, to make sure that I wasn't being a twat) he would have known that the fan was normal sized.
 

Zepper

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May 1, 2001
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Just a typo, the 1 is right next to the 2 after all... Quite common for there to be only room for 25mm fans in front, but it's also not too hard to move the whole HDD rack back a bit if needed or desired to allow for inch-and-a-half fans.

.bh.