Yellowstone tips

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Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
36,943
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Thanks. Yes definitely preparing for leaving very early morning and dressing with layers to deal with the changing weather.

Unfortunately can't do any real hikes because I'll be with family which means a nearly 80-year-old mother and two younger children. I'm going to try to do my own hike at Big sky but other than that I'll be with family throughout Montana.

Definitely looking for recommendations for some of the smaller pull-offs that have the biggest payoffs. Seen some YouTube videos of people who mention some, where some random pull-off That was not crowded at all ended up being quite impressive. I mean it's probably hard not to be impressive there but they pointed out some of the more impressive ones.

Will be buying a cooler in Bozeman and stocking up on food and snacks at the co-op there before heading to our hotel, which will be for all our food while in the park those days.
Saw Montana @ 14 YO on 2 week Western US sweep of national parks with family (summertime!), father driving, staying at motels except for an expansive old low-lying hotel in Montana where a friend, former colleague of my father was working. What a thunderstorm there!!! I've never seen or heard one to compare.

Nowadays Exterous' Montana trip pictures are my rotating desktop. They still totally amaze me!

 
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BudAshes

Lifer
Jul 20, 2003
13,900
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Saw Montana @ 14 YO on 2 week Western US sweep of national parks with family, father driving, staying at motels except for an expansive old low-lying hotel in Montana where a friend, former colleague of my father was working. What a thunderstorm there!!! I've never seen or heard one to compare.

Nowadays Exterous' Montana trip pictures are my rotating desktop. They still totally amaze me!

I lived in Bozeman for 3 months and frequented Yellowstone as often as I could when I lived there. Most incredible place I've ever lived, I would love to go back and live there again just not a real convenient place to live and work and boy is it cold a lot of the year.
 
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akugami

Diamond Member
Feb 14, 2005
5,470
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Went with the family in 2018, but it was a spur of the moment side trip. I really, really, wish we had at least 3 to 5 days to spend there at the time. A one day side trip did not do it justice. Really amazing sights. Old Faithful was spectacular, as well as some of the hot springs nearby.

One thing of note, bring good hiking shoes. I saw some people with sandals, and it's not going to cut it for a hike. Also, in one of the river banks, I saw a couple of rusty fishing hooks.
 
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Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
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The national parks in general are fabulous. I bought Ken Burn's series on DVD (heard the BR's aren't particularly better) and watched them all during the pandemic. I should again. Made me want to drop everything and devote myself to visiting them all. I saw some with the folks when I was a teenager, only Yosemite since IIRC. With the folks it was really just driving, a whirlwind tour of major national parks in the west over a 2 week span. We did maybe a couple Yosemite jaunts in addition, but no hiking whatsoever, just cabin stays and driving. I should plan for Yosemite at least in the near term, it's not that far from me. I also bought a bunch of hiking shoes during the pandemic and a camel-back type thing, am in not indecent shape.
 
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BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
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The national parks in general are fabulous. I bought Ken Burn's series on DVD (heard the BR's aren't particularly better) and watched them all during the pandemic. I should again. Made me want to drop everything and devote myself to visiting them all. I saw some with the folks when I was a teenager, only Yosemite since IIRC. With the folks it was really just driving, a whirlwind tour of major national parks in the west over a 2 week span. We did maybe a couple Yosemite jaunts in addition, but no hiking whatsoever, just cabin stays and driving. I should plan for Yosemite at least in the near term, it's not that far from me. I also bought a bunch of hiking shoes during the pandemic and a camel-back type thing, am in not indecent shape.

You're also not that far from the Redwoods Sequoia/Kings Canyon, and Mt. Lassen. Sequoia/Kings Canyon has the largest trees in the world. The Redwoods have the tallest trees.
 

Muse

Lifer
Jul 11, 2001
36,943
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You're also not that far from the Redwoods Sequoia/Kings Canyon, and Mt. Lassen. Sequoia/Kings Canyon has the largest trees in the world. The Redwoods have the tallest trees.
yeah, it's great stuff. i have seen the biggest redwoods before but could stand to see them again. I did see Muir Woods again about 5 years ago.
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
62,079
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yeah, it's great stuff. i have seen the biggest redwoods before but could stand to see them again. I did see Muir Woods again about 5 years ago.

Muir Woods trees are impressive...but (IMO) pale by comparison.
 

MrSquished

Lifer
Jan 14, 2013
19,887
18,336
136
Did a test pack of my carryon for my trip. Pretty amazed by this loadout and new backpack, one of a kind, with like four segments with front access.

Usually I am into bags with more organization along with some pouches, but for this trip, I wanted a bag where my Tenba BYOB 9 Insert with all my M43 gear could be somewhat separated from everything else. I also wanted to be able to use the bag for some hikes out in Montana/Yellowstone. Enter the Matador seg28.

The Tenba 9 is inside the clamshell at the bottom of the bag. Taking up most of the room for the bottom segment. Though I do have a few things in that segment from the front zipper for it, such as the gray zippered hard shell fabric pouch with my FiiO BTR7 and IE600 IEMs.

In the top segment is an Alpaka Elements Max tech case (including Momentum 4 headphones) Fits perfect in that segment. The handle on it makes it easy to pull out. In the second segment is an Aplaka Elements tech case and Manhattan Portage Luminosity Pouch. In the third segment is a Green Guru recycled sleeping pad pouch (all snacks) plus a couple small things.

Also in the bag is a Pixel Tablet (laptop compartment), BT keyboard for it (inside the clamshell), iFi Go Pods, and some other knick knacks like sunglasses and smaller things. There are also a couple small pouches - an Alpaka small zippered pouch and a Boundary supply small pouch plus a Tom Bihn clear pouch.

PXL_20230807_153119686 - Copy (Medium).jpg

PXL_20230807_155526516 - Copy (Medium).jpg
 
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skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
21,657
4,195
136
I'll look at the maps and pinpoint some appropriate short walks considering your family. We were there with BIL in a wheelchair, so that is a good measure to use. We packed him up some pretty steep stuff, thanks to nephews.
First up as you arrive in the park, take the firehole canyon drive. You can do that on the way back too, just some left turns. Not crowded.
You could possibly leave mom at the civilized seating at Old Faithful, and take a quick hike across the river to the Upper Geyser loop trail.
The Inn building itself is the bomb, a must see. Leave some time for that.
Watch for osprey at yellowstone lake.
As you loop around to the east past the lake, Hayden valley at the beginning of the river as it heads north is prime wildlife viewing, between the lake and Canyon Village.
As mentioned, look for cars on that road stopped and clustered up by no particular attraction. Telescope viewers are often generous with their equipment and will offer a view of a distant grizzly and cubs. Without the telescope you'd never know. This is about the only way to see wolves too.
We hiked up around Mud Volcano there and all the stops along the river in that valley are prime picnicking areas.
Tower falls is easy to appreciate.
Another good drive is out the Lamar Valley to the east. That is good for game also, we saw moose, grizzly, and wolves there.
That canyon down from Tower Falls to the junction is good for close quarters bear spotting, they are running the canyon and close to the road there.
You're too early for the elk escapades at Mammoth. We've been there in late September and stayed at a cabin, and that was quite the experience. Elk all over and rangers keeping the people away from them.
We have stayed at West Yellowstone at the Worldmark, across from the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery center. That is also worth a visit.
At night the two packs would get to howling, you can just open your hotel window and listen.
 
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MrSquished

Lifer
Jan 14, 2013
19,887
18,336
136
I'll look at the maps and pinpoint some appropriate short walks considering your family. We were there with BIL in a wheelchair, so that is a good measure to use. We packed him up some pretty steep stuff, thanks to nephews.
First up as you arrive in the park, take the firehole canyon drive. You can do that on the way back too, just some left turns. Not crowded.
You could possibly leave mom at the civilized seating at Old Faithful, and take a quick hike across the river to the Upper Geyser loop trail.
The Inn building itself is the bomb, a must see. Leave some time for that.
Watch for osprey at yellowstone lake.
As you loop around to the east past the lake, Hayden valley at the beginning of the river as it heads north is prime wildlife viewing, between the lake and Canyon Village.
As mentioned, look for cars on that road stopped and clustered up by no particular attraction. Telescope viewers are often generous with their equipment and will offer a view of a distant grizzly and cubs. Without the telescope you'd never know. This is about the only way to see wolves too.
We hiked up around Mud Volcano there and all the stops along the river in that valley are prime picnicking areas.
Tower falls is easy to appreciate.
Another good drive is out the Lamar Valley to the east. That is good for game also, we saw moose, grizzly, and wolves there.
That canyon down from Tower Falls to the junction is good for close quarters bear spotting, they are running the canyon and close to the road there.
You're too early for the elk escapades at Mammoth. We've been there in late September and stayed at a cabin, and that was quite the experience. Elk all over and rangers keeping the people away from them.
We have stayed at West Yellowstone at the Worldmark, across from the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery center. That is also worth a visit.
At night the two packs would get to howling, you can just open your hotel window and listen.

Thanks man, great tips, very appreciated.
 

SteveGrabowski

Diamond Member
Oct 20, 2014
6,408
5,453
136
The national parks in general are fabulous. I bought Ken Burn's series on DVD (heard the BR's aren't particularly better) and watched them all during the pandemic. I should again. Made me want to drop everything and devote myself to visiting them all. I saw some with the folks when I was a teenager, only Yosemite since IIRC. With the folks it was really just driving, a whirlwind tour of major national parks in the west over a 2 week span. We did maybe a couple Yosemite jaunts in addition, but no hiking whatsoever, just cabin stays and driving. I should plan for Yosemite at least in the near term, it's not that far from me. I also bought a bunch of hiking shoes during the pandemic and a camel-back type thing, am in not indecent shape.
I hated the Ken Burns documentary. I mean really hated it. Thought I was going to see some amazing footage from Yosemite like Ansel Adams used to capture. And then it just ended up being a bunch low effort shots you can take off the side of the road. I thought that series was horrible and distilled all the incredible things the national parks have into a high school history textbook level of excitement with stories of a bunch of old men in the 1800s. That series did such a piss poor job showing how exciting Yosemite actually is if you get a couple of miles off the roads.

IMO best scenery per unit effort hike in Yosemite is Mount Hoffman as you're on this big plateau looking down on Clouds Rest, Half Dome, Glacier Point, etc. My favorite hike in Yosemite is Clouds Rest, but it's about 14 miles roundtrip. Pretty great views into Tenaya Canyon, of Half Dome, of Mt Clark, and really cool when you're on the thinnest part of the ridge that's only a few feet wide. Mt Dana is amazing too if you get an early start since it's like 95% above tree line and is the second highest peak in the park. Really incredible views of Mono Lake, Mt Lyell, Mt Maclure, and the Lyell Glacier. Plus Mt Gibbs is nearby and fun too, though no trail for Gibbs. Speaking of Mt Lyell, that's the highest peak in the park, but requires glacier traversal and all routes I know up it are technical. If you go in waterfall season the Mist Trail can be really epic. Expect to be as soaked from the mist under Vernal Fall as if you took a shower in your clothes if you go when the falls are roaring. Sentinel Dome is supposed to be a great hike and is only a couple of miles, but I haven't done it before.

Break those hiking boots in before taking them on a long hike or you'll regret the hell out of it.
 
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skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
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No problem, have a great time.
If at all possible try to visit in either early May or late September.
1) the vast herds of motorhomes are either not there or gone East.
2)in May, Babies! Baby elk, baby buffalo. Might see baby moose. The buffalo calves just shoot around like they are inflated, then collapse for a recharge. One time it was on the very warm highway and we just had to wait. Never be in too much of a hurry to not enjoy that.
3) In September, book a room or cabin at Mammoth and watch the elk show. There is all this bugling down the valley and around the lodge as one bull tries to steal from the other. Lots of cows charging here or there. Look both ways when you step out of your cabin.
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
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One thing to remember...if you're going out away from "civilization," each member of your party should have GOOD bear spray. You might never need it...but that's definitely one thing that's better to have and not need than to need and not have. (and if possible, make sure you are upwind of the bear should you have to use it)
 
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Shmee

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Sep 13, 2008
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Don't pet the fluffy cow tanks, or boop them.