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YACT: whats a good brake fluid?

Aharami

Aharami

Lifer
just got my stainless steel brake lines....decided might as well bleed my brakes.

so whats a good brand brake fluid? I have a 2000 VW GTI, and searching thru the vwvortex forums, found that ATE super blue and Motul are some brands they prefer. But I'd rather not order them online (dont want to wait). so what the best brake fluid i can get at local auto store like pep boys or autozone?
 
You can usually pick up Valvoline Synpower from your local auto parts store. Pretty high quality stuff that won't break the bank and you don't need to order.
 
Most are the same. If you want something a little higher end then look and see what the boiling point is. I know Valvoline Synpower and some others have a little more higher BP then others.
But don;t buy some overpriced NAME-brand if it offers nothing over the reg. stuff. Brake fluid is not rocket science, so don;t wast your money of some magic brake "snake oil" fluid.
 
yea im not gonna break the bank with this. Just want something thats better. Heard that fluid makes a pretty big difference in braking. So want something that will impove it. I will look into Valvoline Synpower
 
Before you go synthetic, make sure you won't destroy your hydralic system. I had a BMW with SS brake lines and I went with Super Blue Dot 4, non-synthetic.

It's actually blue and has very high boiling temps so it helps you dissipate more heat??? Anywayz, it is easy to tell when you get into the new fluid during the bleeding process because it's blue.
 
Just get Napa brand brake fluid. I'm pretty sure its made by Valvoline, but it doesn't come with the higher price tag. Same deal with their motor oil.
 
Motul fluids are good. Seems like quite a large number of people I drive (recreationally) with use this fluid for their brake systems.
 
I run the Synpower in the Mustang ever since I installed my cross drilleds and stainless lines. Seems to work well...

🙂
 
Originally posted by: Aharami
yea im not gonna break the bank with this. Just want something thats better. Heard that fluid makes a pretty big difference in braking. So want something that will impove it. I will look into Valvoline Synpower
Click to expand...

Just having fresh fluid that hasn't picked up H2O molecules will prevent the boiling that causes spongy brakes, and having the system bled using any old brake fluid with a power bleeder will probably give you better results than any "high-end" fluid that you've bled yourself.
 
anybody have/used a mityvac to bleed their brakes? i'm thinking of buying the metal 'silverline' one. i'm hesitant to buy the speed bleeders just it case it get stucks or something.
 
Originally posted by: zaku
anybody have/used a mityvac to bleed their brakes? i'm thinking of buying the metal 'silverline' one. i'm hesitant to buy the speed bleeders just it case it get stucks or something.
Click to expand...

MightyVac > Speed Bleeders

Be very careful with brake fluid ... it is very hard on paint, so don't spill it.

Be cautious of the 'cool factor' of having high tech brake fluid. Some of these fluids have great specifications, but are only designed to stay in the car for a year or less. Fluids can get great word of mouth support from SCCA type crowds, who forget to inform that it has to be swapped out on a regular basis.

ATE Super Blue is a great fluid for the street. They make a blue and a gold so it is very easy to determine when you have completely flushed the old stuff.
 
Monster Brake Fluid!
  • Brakes can only stop as well as the fluid used to engage them. Braking is the final - arguably the most critical link in your vehicle. Their effectiveness and ability to accurately decelerate will ultimately determine how well your vehicle stops. For over 20 years, Monster® has painstakingly designed and engineered brake fluid that delivers the most accurate pedal to give you the best stopping possible at every price level.
 
Originally posted by: boggsie
Originally posted by: zaku
anybody have/used a mityvac to bleed their brakes? i'm thinking of buying the metal 'silverline' one. i'm hesitant to buy the speed bleeders just it case it get stucks or something.
Click to expand...

MightyVac > Speed Bleeders

Be very careful with brake fluid ... it is very hard on paint, so don't spill it.

Be cautious of the 'cool factor' of having high tech brake fluid. Some of these fluids have great specifications, but are only designed to stay in the car for a year or less. Fluids can get great word of mouth support from SCCA type crowds, who forget to inform that it has to be swapped out on a regular basis.

ATE Super Blue is a great fluid for the street. They make a blue and a gold so it is very easy to determine when you have completely flushed the old stuff.
Click to expand...
That doesen't make any sense, though.

Better specs would supposedly also mean that it doesen't break down as fast, so you can use it longer.. no?
 
Can you get that MightyVac kit anywhere? What's the general price of it? I need to take my calipers of soon to put some paint on them (black), and I was going to go with speed bleeders.

Edit, found the cheaper plastic kit for ~$30 @ a few places..the silverline is a bit steep, but I may consider it so I can have a good vacumn gauge too.

🙂
 
Here's a question from a car work newbie: I have a 2002 Grand Am. I just replaced the front brakes last weekend (did it with some friends who showed me how easy it is). Now, even with new brakes, my car's brakes aren't nearly as touchy as my sister's 2001 Sunfire. Barely press on her pedal and I nearly hit my head on the windshield. Whereas my car, I have to stomp hard when I need to stop fast. Will changing my brake fluid help my brakes stop faster/harder like hers?
If not, is there anything I can do to improve my braking?

Thanks,
-DAGTA
 
Did you let them properly bed to the rotors? Did you make sure the rotors were clean of any grease/fluid oil?

You should be very gentle with your brakes for a little bit after you replace them so they can properly break in. The amount of miles for break in varies.

Also, make sure aren't low on fluid.
 
Originally posted by: Insane3D
Did you let them properly bed to the rotors? Did you make sure the rotors were clean of any grease/fluid oil?

You should be very gentle with your brakes for a little bit after you replace them so they can properly break in. The amount of miles for break in varies.

Also, make sure aren't low on fluid.
Click to expand...

Checked the fluid, it's full. Checked over the rotors to make sure they were flat and didn't have anything on them. Looked good. I can try to be gentle with the new brakes, but that's not always possible in Phoenix traffic.
 
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: boggsie
Originally posted by: zaku
anybody have/used a mityvac to bleed their brakes? i'm thinking of buying the metal 'silverline' one. i'm hesitant to buy the speed bleeders just it case it get stucks or something.
Click to expand...

MightyVac > Speed Bleeders

Be very careful with brake fluid ... it is very hard on paint, so don't spill it.

Be cautious of the 'cool factor' of having high tech brake fluid. Some of these fluids have great specifications, but are only designed to stay in the car for a year or less. Fluids can get great word of mouth support from SCCA type crowds, who forget to inform that it has to be swapped out on a regular basis.

ATE Super Blue is a great fluid for the street. They make a blue and a gold so it is very easy to determine when you have completely flushed the old stuff.
Click to expand...
That doesen't make any sense, though.

Better specs would supposedly also mean that it doesen't break down as fast, so you can use it longer.. no?
Click to expand...

That's what you would think, but evidently there are compromises in some of the higher tech fluids ... i.e. super high boiling point ends up making it more susceptible (sp?) to moisture absorption, which causes quicker breakdown, necessitating (sp?) more frequent fluid change - blah, blah, blah. If I came off sounding like an expert, my apologies. My intent was simply to recommend some research before going off of the deep end ... or sticking with ATE Super Blue, which is a great fluid. It offers super shelf and in-car life as well as excellent specs.

There is some data here that demonstrates how much moisture absorption breaks down the 'racing' fluids. Of course, Castrol SRF is mentioned and it appears to be an amazing fluid, but it ought to be for around 5x the money of ATE Super Blue. However, SRF is really only necessary when one expects to consistently see ultra high break fluid temps.
 
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