• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

YACT: What can cause the MiniVan to Shake intermittently ?

Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Originally posted by: SammyBoy
dude take a look in the day time for god's sake, you've provided so little info. I'm not knowledgable about cars but I'm still heavily irritated.

Does it happen in park/neutral, or only when it's in gear? That'd be my 1st question. Probably didn't try that though, and it's late so you won't be providing any more info, so why even post it til you have figured out everything you can on your own. bah!🙂

I already answered that first question many posts up.
If you're irritated go to sleep 😛 LoL
 
ive had 2 cars with bad motor mounts. one i changed myself.

the first one, that i changed myself, was on a 1966 dodge dart. it vibrated all the time and the engine would rise up when it was gassed. they were very easy to change. just jacked it up a little to ease some pressure, loosened the bolt, jacked the engine the rest of the way to make sure i had clearance for the new mount to fit, swapped them out, then reverse the process. BUT, it was so easy because i had a lot of room under there. im not sure how much room you would have with your van.

the second was a 1990 escort wagon my wife had when we first lived together. it would idle fine, but when put into first gear it would vibrate badly. it would smooth out around 15mph, but vibrate again when it shifted (auto trans) into 2nd, tho not as badly as 1st. it would smooth out around 35 then, and was smooth on up. i took it to a transmission shop since it would vibrate when shifting, and he pointed it was the mounts. again, the engine would rise up when gassed. these i paid to have changed, $125.

the rising of the engine was obvious on both cars. wasnt just the normal movement of the engine.

but im no mechanic, so YMMV.

 
Originally posted by: shimsham
ive had 2 cars with bad motor mounts. one i changed myself.

the first one, that i changed myself, was on a 1966 dodge dart. it vibrated all the time and the engine would rise up when it was gassed. they were very easy to change. just jacked it up a little to ease some pressure, loosened the bolt, jacked the engine the rest of the way to make sure i had clearance for the new mount to fit, swapped them out, then reverse the process. BUT, it was so easy because i had a lot of room under there. im not sure how much room you would have with your van.

the second was a 1990 escort wagon my wife had when we first lived together. it would idle fine, but when put into first gear it would vibrate badly. it would smooth out around 15mph, but vibrate again when it shifted (auto trans) into 2nd, tho not as badly as 1st. it would smooth out around 35 then, and was smooth on up. i took it to a transmission shop since it would vibrate when shifting, and he pointed it was the mounts. again, the engine would rise up when gassed. these i paid to have changed, $125.

the rising of the engine was obvious on both cars. wasnt just the normal movement of the engine.

but im no mechanic, so YMMV.

I'm definitely gonna get that checked.

did that $125 include the mounts ?

I checked online on the pricing and it seems like the 4 mounts comes out ot like $115 + shipping for me. Are these prices normal ?

 
isekii,

Before you get under the van, try to see if any of your spark plug wires are laying up against the engine. If one is, it may have worn through to the bare wire and is arcing against the engine. This has happened to me several times and the first thing I check is the wires. Another thing: Does it do it more when the engine is cold? You can see the wires arcing when you first start the vehicle up, as long as its kind of dark when you look.

Check all of the wires and then go the engine mount way. A whole lot of effort saved if this is the problem.



Peace


Lounatik
 
What you are experiencing is either lean stumble or ignition misfire, the first thing I would do is to clean the AIS (automatic Idle speed) motor), then disconnect the negative terminal of the battery with the key removed from the ignition, wait 15 minutes and reconnect the cable. While your at it, clean the throttle body as well.
Start the vehicle and drive normally for 20 minutes, this will reprogram the ECM.
If this does not cure the problem, carefully inspect all the plugs and wires (if applicable).
 
Originally posted by: Roger
What you are experiencing is either lean stumble or ignition misfire, the first thing I would do is to clean the AIS (automatic Idle speed) motor), then disconnect the negative terminal of the battery with the key removed from the ignition, wait 15 minutes and reconnect the cable. While your at it, clean the throttle body as well.
Start the vehicle and drive normally for 20 minutes, this will reprogram the ECM.
If this does not cure the problem, carefully inspect all the plugs and wires (if applicable).
Roger is on target with his recommendation. I have worked on the Mercury Villagers for several years and I have seen both the AIS motor clogged and the rear plug wires fail at the 100K-mileage range. Do as Roger posted first and if that doesn't fix it inspect the spark plug wires for cracks or burn marks.
 
Back
Top