YACT: Transmission problem? Engine? Gremlins? *UPDATE* Problem found

[LAUST]

Hold on a sec... I thought Nissan was perfect?

 

[NutBucket]

Well, a good place to start would be to get under the car and see if anything is loose. And from my experience, a broken cat will have sound coming from all directions since it reverberates through the whole exhuast system. My cat is still broken but passes smog so I'll live with it

 

[StageLeft]

Update

 

[Pepsi90919]

um, ignition components causing a valve tick?

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
um, ignition components causing a valve tick?

He referred to it as valve tapping I believe. I was reading a super long thread on the maxima forums and many people have coil issues which have manifested themselves in knocking, and I just read of a guy who's knocking occured when accelerating generally, so it really does sound like it.

 

[AMCRambler]

Dude your car doesn't have six ignition coils! Hahaha, Skoorb cracking me up here. It's only got one coil. Only $70 bucks dude. And if it's like my Honda it's under the distributor cap. Ignition coil is kind of like a big capacitor. Builds up a charge and when the rotor comes around and makes the contact with one of the points on the distributor cap, discharges down the spark plug wire connected to that lead, making the plug spark and firing the cylinder.

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: AMCRambler
Dude your car doesn't have six ignition coils! Hahaha, Skoorb cracking me up here. It's only got one coil. Only $70 bucks dude. And if it's like my Honda it's under the distributor cap. Ignition coil is kind of like a big capacitor. Builds up a charge and when the rotor comes around and makes the contact with one of the points on the distributor cap, discharges down the spark plug wire connected to that lead, making the plug spark and firing the cylinder.

And if it's like my Honda it's under the distributor cap. It's not; it's got 6 ignition coils.

 

*UPDATE* The nissan dealer said that he was able to replicate the problem and said that it was valve tapping caused by faulty ignition coils. The ICs on the 2000 max have been known to go bad and there is a TSB out for them (I never had a chance to get it done a while back). Replacement cost is 6 X $70/piece (even I can do the labor, which somehow they claim would take them 2 hours, but I could do it in like 30 minutes or less!). However, he claims that if I leave this, it won't cause damage (it is slowly getting more frequent). I don't like the idea of valves tapping - and sometimes it's pretty loud - but if indeed it won't cause problems, then I have no problem with saving $400 and having it rattle every once in a while.

This is physically impossible, I can see if the coils went bad it may cause preigintion, but in no way can it cause the valves to tap.

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: Roger

*UPDATE* The nissan dealer said that he was able to replicate the problem and said that it was valve tapping caused by faulty ignition coils. The ICs on the 2000 max have been known to go bad and there is a TSB out for them (I never had a chance to get it done a while back). Replacement cost is 6 X $70/piece (even I can do the labor, which somehow they claim would take them 2 hours, but I could do it in like 30 minutes or less!). However, he claims that if I leave this, it won't cause damage (it is slowly getting more frequent). I don't like the idea of valves tapping - and sometimes it's pretty loud - but if indeed it won't cause problems, then I have no problem with saving $400 and having it rattle every once in a while.

This is physically impossible, I can see if the coils went bad it may cause preigintion, but in no way can it cause the valves to tap.

*shrug* I won't argue. He did mention valves and I mentioned valves and he reiterated, but he also mentioned spark knocking, which the coils could cause, so that's probably what he meant, I guess

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

I am not contesting, only adding a thought. Does this happen more in the winter than summer? I believe your winter fuel is blended to burn quicker than what is available in the summer months. I ditto Roger, noway spark knock or coils will=valves tapping.
Scribe a small line where the dist. base meets its mount and try retarding the spark a couple degrees. Now see if the noise is present. Retarding would mean turning the dist. in the direction of rotor rotation. The mark is to put it back where it was if there is no diff.
That is if the dist can be turned on that engine. Intermittent preignition can be tolerated,
but is never good and if the dealer says it will get worse?

3rd gear at those RPM's is most likely the torque peak for that engine and when your applying the most load accelerating.
. By the time you get into 4th & 5th wind noise is masking what you can here...

EDit: Forget about the fuel I had a senior brain fart and thought you lived in Denver!

 

[RGN]

Originally posted by: AMCRambler
Dude your car doesn't have six ignition coils! Hahaha, Skoorb cracking me up here. It's only got one coil. Only $70 bucks dude. And if it's like my Honda it's under the distributor cap. Ignition coil is kind of like a big capacitor. Builds up a charge and when the rotor comes around and makes the contact with one of the points on the distributor cap, discharges down the spark plug wire connected to that lead, making the plug spark and firing the cylinder.

another HonDUH owner. I think this is falls in the self ownage catagory of: Explaining to the world in grave detail that you have no idea what you are talking about.

 

[Feldenak]

I have nothing constructive to add except it's good to see Roger posting in YACT again.

Have a sixer on me Roger.
:beer::beer::beer:
:beer::beer::beer:

 

[EyeMWing]

Skoorb, every day I see a new thread with you griping about your Nissans being busted in one way or another.

 

[element]

Originally posted by: galvanizedyankee
I am not contesting, only adding a thought. Does this happen more in the winter than summer? I believe your winter fuel is blended to burn quicker than what is available in the summer months. I ditto Roger, noway spark knock or coils will=valves tapping.
Scribe a small line where the dist. base meets its mount and try retarding the spark a couple degrees. Now see if the noise is present. Retarding would mean turning the dist. in the direction of rotor rotation. The mark is to put it back where it was if there is no diff.
That is if the dist can be turned on that engine. Intermittent preignition can be tolerated,
but is never good and if the dealer says it will get worse?

3rd gear at those RPM's is most likely the torque peak for that engine and when your applying the most load accelerating.
. By the time you get into 4th & 5th wind noise is masking what you can here...

A 2000 Maxima has a mechanical distributor? I doubt that. Should be electronic, computer controlled, and unchangable. Then again I might be wrong, I don't have this car afterall. A faulty ignition coil could cause spark knock, and that is probably what is happening. Usually the coils are all in one ignition coil unit, but it might be different on your car. If you replace the ignition coils, don't forget the silicone lubricant and check the wires too. Might as well check the spark plugs also while your at it. (unless they're new)

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Originally posted by: EyeMWing
Skoorb, every day I see a new thread with you griping about your Nissans being busted in one way or another.

Isn't it great!? That we all have an opprotunity to learn somethig? I make a real effort to remember what Roger, Quixfire and others have to offer.

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: EyeMWing
Skoorb, every day I see a new thread with you griping about your Nissans being busted in one way or another.

It may seem like that, but really they've been very reliable...

If you replace the ignition coils, don't forget the silicone lubricant and check the wires too. Might as well check the spark plugs also while your at it.

Plugs are new, and in fact the ignition coils plug on to the very end of the spark plugs, so there are no wires per se!

 

[C'DaleRider]

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: EyeMWing
Skoorb, every day I see a new thread with you griping about your Nissans being busted in one way or another.

It may seem like that, but really they've been very reliable...

If you replace the ignition coils, don't forget the silicone lubricant and check the wires too. Might as well check the spark plugs also while your at it.

Plugs are new, and in fact the ignition coils plug on to the very end of the spark plugs, so there are no wires per se!

Yours is probably like a lot of newer cars out there.....direct pickup at the crankshaft that feeds through small wires directly to coils that individually fire each plug. This system has been out a while from various car manufacturers.....more precise control of the ignition, no adjustment to speak of except what the computer does. You're probably going to see more of this type of ignition on cars as OBD3 comes online.

Now, just wait until the 42 volt systems hit the market........Mercedes has plans for this coming in a year or two. Larger battery, but thinner wires throughout the car and much less voltage fluctuation as power accessories are used. The current 12 volt systems have just about reached their limit at providing current with more and more power accessories being installed.

 

[Eli]

That is not what is causing your problem.

It doesen't make any sense. You might as well say your blinker fluid is low and it's causing your exhaust bearings to rattle.

 

[C'DaleRider]

It is indeed spark knock that is your sound. The Nissan TSB number is: NTB01059

Abstract is:
If an applied vehicle exhibits one or both of the below symptoms: · MIL 'ON' with DTC P1320 stored in the ECM · Intermittent spark knock (detonation). The cause may be one or more of the ignition coils.


This is also found:

Trouble code of P1340 or P1320: The problem is clearly described in AllData information system; it shows Nissan Service Bulletin No. 01-059. Nissan recognizes the problem and wants all six coils changed with its new updated part.

 

[cavemanmoron]

did you try using highest octane fuel,yet?

like 92/93 octane?

 

[Thegonagle]

Originally posted by: Roger

*UPDATE* The nissan dealer said that he was able to replicate the problem and said that it was valve tapping caused by faulty ignition coils. The ICs on the 2000 max have been known to go bad and there is a TSB out for them (I never had a chance to get it done a while back). Replacement cost is 6 X $70/piece (even I can do the labor, which somehow they claim would take them 2 hours, but I could do it in like 30 minutes or less!). However, he claims that if I leave this, it won't cause damage (it is slowly getting more frequent). I don't like the idea of valves tapping - and sometimes it's pretty loud - but if indeed it won't cause problems, then I have no problem with saving $400 and having it rattle every once in a while.

This is physically impossible, I can see if the coils went bad it may cause preigintion, but in no way can it cause the valves to tap.

I was thinking the same thing.

I've mentioned this to you some time before, but early 2000 models needed to have the ECU re-flashed with an update for driveability and cold weather starting issues. Ask whether this has been done. If it hasn't make sure it gets done. It was a free TSB.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: C'DaleRider
It is indeed spark knock that is your sound. The Nissan TSB number is: NTB01059

Abstract is:
If an applied vehicle exhibits one or both of the below symptoms: · MIL 'ON' with DTC P1320 stored in the ECM · Intermittent spark knock (detonation). The cause may be one or more of the ignition coils.


This is also found:

Trouble code of P1340 or P1320: The problem is clearly described in AllData information system; it shows Nissan Service Bulletin No. 01-059. Nissan recognizes the problem and wants all six coils changed with its new updated part.

Well... At any rate, this might be what is causing the sound, but the sound in turn isn't valve train noise... heh.

 

[StageLeft]

Any TSBs are not covered by powertrain warranty and instead have to be done with the 3 year, 36000 mile, which I'm beyond now.

I've read the TSB about the pre-ignition. I really hope that that is what it is. It truly sounds to me like metal rattling and not "knocking", but then I don't know what knocking sounds like as I've never heard it before, so hopefully it is the ignition coil(s). Probably just one, but since no code has been thrown there is no way to know. I'm considering just buying one rear and one front and moving around until I can identify which coil went bad.

 

[LAUST]

Man that car has a lot of problems.

 

[AMCRambler]

Wow, I checked and you're right. Six ignition coils. Can't understand why you'd want six ignition coils though. Maybe the idea is that you're distributing the amount of work one coil would have to do, so they should last longer? But when you have to replace them $420?!?!? I'll keep my one coil Honda thank you(those new Z's are nice though).
RGN just because I didn't know Nissan uses an ignition coil for each cylinder doesn't make me a stupid Honda owner. When would I ever find out if I never had a Nissan to work on? I'm actually pretty experienced working on cars. I have a 1966 AMC Rambler that I recently completed swapping an engine into. Took out the straight six and put in a 287 V8. So don't talk down to me like I'm some kind of idiot, I do all my car repairs myself.