YACT: test my auto mechanic knowledge

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NeoPTLD

Platinum Member
Nov 23, 2001
2,544
2
81
Originally posted by: TheGeek
If i try to brake at high speeds (over 60), even gradually, the brakes and steering wheel shutter. why?


More than likely, warped rotors.
 

SwiftWind

Platinum Member
Sep 27, 2004
2,588
22
91
Well for me I hear squeeky noise out of my engine either when the car hasn't run for bit (like in the morning) or on very cold days or after rain (maybe?)
The mechanic said originally its the belt (serp belt?) that it is stretched and that its going out soon. However, no cracks or brittling on the belt. When I spray wd40 on it, it stops but comes back a few days later.

When I finally let the mechanic repair it, he said it wasn't the belt actually, it was the belt tensioner. So that was fixed and the noise was gone for a while....now its back again?!

What the heck? Ideas? miles are at 50k+, haven't changed the actual belt yet. What do you think I should do? its still coming from that area.

Also, when I press the gas while driving, I always hear a really low fluttering noise which is sometimes hard to notice. The minute I let go, it stops. I'm not sure if its always been like this but I just noticed it recently. I can mostly hear it when I only accelerate a little. Ideas?
 

Soccerman06

Diamond Member
Jul 29, 2004
5,830
5
81
How bout these:

Steering column vibrates when I push on the brakes going faster than 45mph.

Bonneville stutters at start everytime the car is turned on after a period of 8 hours. The stuttering goes away after 2 minutes. It is not the vacuum tubing or injectors. What wrong.

The AC does not get cold, the coolant is at proper pressure, the compressor works fine, what is the problem.

Edit: saw the post above about the steering wheel vibrating, mines the same condition except the brakes and rotars are brand new.
 

Calin

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2001
3,112
0
0
Originally posted by: brtspears2
GM 3100 V6

If I sit in traffic, the temp goes up to halfway to overheat levels. I turn on the A/C, the temp drops rapidly. I turn on the heat and the temp doesn't drop. No one can figure it out, even the GM goodwrench folks.

You have two electric fans on the radiator? Maybe one is broken. If you have a single fan, maybe it doesn't work on "slow" rotation speed, only on "high"
 

Calin

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2001
3,112
0
0
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
2002 Saab sedan. Power windows roll down and power locks lock when you turn hard left (I sh!t you not, I have a friend who has this very problem)

It's the alarm system? Someone had (on a Skoda Fabia) a problem somewhat similar: when arming the alarm, the windows would roll down. He went to service, and the mechanic asked him: "When you arm the alarm, the power windows roll down?"
 

Calin

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2001
3,112
0
0
Originally posted by: loic2003
My bike has twin rear lights, they are wired in parallel. The left bulb keeps blowing, and when I replace it the bike will sometimes fuse out a few times in a row. Soon after it'll be fine for several hundered miles, but the left bulb will have blown. i've run a mulimeter across the connections and it appears there is a normal level of resistance within the wires.

What do you think, champ?

That's an electrical problem, not mechanical
 

Calin

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2001
3,112
0
0
Originally posted by: Brutuskend
What's the water to anti freeze ratio for a 1972 VW Type 3?

Is that an air-cooled engine? If not, depends on the lowest temperature you expect to encounter. For -40, you should use straight antifreeze.
 

Calin

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2001
3,112
0
0
Originally posted by: jpprod
GM 3100 V6

If I sit in traffic, the temp goes up to halfway to overheat levels. I turn on the A/C, the temp drops rapidly. I turn on the heat and the temp doesn't drop. No one can figure it out, even the GM goodwrench folks.

I have the exact same problem with the exact same engine (-97 Lumina, 50k miles). With AC on the temps never climb over half of the gauge, but it goes up to 3/5 and even 3/4 the way in hot weather without AC.

Although my mechanic disagrees with me, I believe that the problem is that the cooling fan fails to ignite early enough. Lumina has two fans, and turning the AC on causes the second fan to come on immediately. Likely cause would be a faulty coolant temperature sensor.

Or a faulty fan (the one not "powered" by starting air conditioning). Or some wiring gone bad
 

Quixfire

Diamond Member
Jul 31, 2001
6,892
0
0
Originally posted by: Calin
Originally posted by: jpprod
GM 3100 V6

If I sit in traffic, the temp goes up to halfway to overheat levels. I turn on the A/C, the temp drops rapidly. I turn on the heat and the temp doesn't drop. No one can figure it out, even the GM goodwrench folks.

I have the exact same problem with the exact same engine (-97 Lumina, 50k miles). With AC on the temps never climb over half of the gauge, but it goes up to 3/5 and even 3/4 the way in hot weather without AC.

Although my mechanic disagrees with me, I believe that the problem is that the cooling fan fails to ignite early enough. Lumina has two fans, and turning the AC on causes the second fan to come on immediately. Likely cause would be a faulty coolant temperature sensor.

Or a faulty fan (the one not "powered" by starting air conditioning). Or some wiring gone bad
I've seen faulty PCMs not turning the cooling fan on when the temperture reaches 220 degrees. If it's a OBD I car, pre-96, try scaning for codes. If the fan comes on while scaning then the PCM is at fault, if not there is a problem with cooling fan circuit or sensors. If it's a Post 96 car, OBD II, you will need a scan tool that can data stream to see if the coolant sensor is telling the PCM to switch on the fan to determine what part of the system is at fault.

Good Luck,
Quixfire
 

Quixfire

Diamond Member
Jul 31, 2001
6,892
0
0
Originally posted by: DaTT
I got one, on a TEVES II ABS brake system (using my old 1990 Thunderbird SC as reference), when you depress the brake pedal and the BRAKE and ANITILOK lights flash on the dash, what component should be replaced, and as quick as possible?
The first thing you should check is your brake fluid level. If the level is good then the switch at the end of the master cylinder my be faulty if there are no other concerns. Mind you a seized brake caliper can also cause codes to set on these systems.

 

misterj

Senior member
Jan 7, 2000
882
0
0
Originally posted by: CycloWizard
My brake pedal goes to the floor when it's ~90°F or hotter, but is perfectly fine otherwise. Is it the master cylinder, the break fluid, or other?

1990 Acura Integra, no ABS, ~190,000 miles

most likely master cylinder. http://www.g2ic.com/forums

car make and even model-specific message boards are your best friend.
 

NeoPTLD

Platinum Member
Nov 23, 2001
2,544
2
81
Originally posted by: sao123
Why does chevrolet's orange coolant fluid clog radiators and heater cores 82% more often than conventional green/yellow coolant.


Whats the difference in the types of transmission fluids...
dexstron 2e vs dextron 3 vs mercon vs type f vs mopar plus vs toyota type T???

#1:
I'm guessing tendency to settle out mineral deposits

#2
Mainly the friction modifier blending.
 

imported_Phil

Diamond Member
Feb 10, 2001
9,837
0
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Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Trygve
I've got a Jeep Cherokee that will run normally for a while and then abruptly start overheating. When it starts overheating, if I turn the vent to "hot," cool air comes out. When it's not overheating, turning the vent to "hot" produces hot air. What's your diagnosis and estimated cost-to-repair?
Air bubble in the coolant system. Bleed the coolant system.

ZV

Isn't the problem he's describing also a sympton of a failing head gasket? I'm sure my mechanic told me once (when I was asking how you can check the head gasket easily) that you won't get any heat from the system if it's failing.