yact: intermittent start problems - losing spark - distributor module?

[murphy55d]

yeah more problems with my Olds.

96 Bravada, it is having intermittent start problems. Sometimes it'll start right up, other times it won't fire up first try. My cousin who usually works on my car says he thinks it MAY be a "distributor module", and the part is around $120. Does this sound like it may be correct? He says he isn't 100% sure though. He hooked it up to the ODB thing and it isnt coming back with any codes. I am not sure what other information I should provide. He also said the times it won't fire right up, there either ISNT spark, or it's LOSING spark. (not sure if theres a difference), and it sounds electrical. is that what the distributor module controls? is that even a real part? (i think thats what he said it was called)

should I take it to another garage and have them look at it? any thoughts?


edit: tried to start it this morning,turn the key, engine cranked, but would not start up. Just sat there. Eventually then the brake became impossible to press in and I could not even get it into Neutral for it to be towed. Eventually got it into neutral by putting on E-brake. Any further thoughts?

 

[Pepsi90919]

lol he hooked it up to ol' dirty bastard eh

 

[murphy55d]

ODB, OBD whatever the thing is called.

 

[funboy6942]

Sure it is the spark and you dont have a fuel pump going bad????

 

[murphy55d]

No of course I'm not sure. If i had any semblance of a clue I wouldn't be asking here. However my fuel pump was replaced recently so if that is the problem it is covered. I sort of doubt that is the problem again though.

 

[murphy55d]

can anyone tell me what a "distributor module" is, and whether or not that would cause a potential start problem? I am thinking I might take it to another shop to see what they say.

 

[funboy6942]

Well just because th epump is new doesnt mean you got a bad one or was messed up during the install. I would take it to where the pump got replaced and let them have it for a day and see if they can get a fuel pressure test done. If that turns out good then take it to another shop. But I am leaning towards fuel pump or fuel pump relay. There can be several other factors if i turns out to be a spark problem, spark knock sensor, bad coil pack, messed up ignition switch, and alot others. Just for giggles you may want to call your nearest dealer and see if there may be a out standing recall. When I worked for Ford we had on for an igniton mod that was covered and didnt cost the owners anything

Just call and ask them to run your vin for a recall check. Its free and who knows it may have one for your problem

 

[murphy55d]

Originally posted by: moochadime
Well just because th epump is new doesnt mean you got a bad one or was messed up during the install. I would take it to where the pump got replaced and let them have it for a day and see if they can get a fuel pressure test done. If that turns out good then take it to another shop. But I am leaning towards fuel pump or fuel pump relay. There can be several other factors if i turns out to be a spark problem, spark knock sensor, bad coil pack, messed up ignition switch, and alot others. Just for giggles you may want to call your nearest dealer and see if there may be a out standing recall. When I worked for Ford we had on for an igniton mod that was covered and didnt cost the owners anything

Just call and ask them to run your vin for a recall check. Its free and who knows it may have one for your problem

He is the one who put the fuel pump in... he had my car all day today and did not find a problem with the pump. You mentioned coil pack... he said the 96 or 97 and older models do not have coil packs, but rather these "distributor modules" instead. The newer ones have coil packs. So maybe he is right with this module thing? I may just take it to another shop and see what they have to say.

 

[murphy55d]

bump for update :|

 

[iamwiz82]

Well, I would have tested for spark and fuel, first.

If you pop a spark plug out and hold it near the block (away from the cylinder you pulled it from) and have someone crank the engine, you should see a nice spark (don't kill yourself by doing this ). You should also smell gasoline from that cylinder. If you smell gas and see a spark and there is air being taken in, it should run.

 

[murphy55d]

what are the chances this is something simple and stupid like consensation in the gas tank?

 

[iamwiz82]

Originally posted by: murphy55d
what are the chances this is something simple and stupid like consensation in the gas tank?

The question that would come to mind is, how did condensation get in your tank?

 

[murphy55d]

Originally posted by: iamwiz82

Originally posted by: murphy55d
what are the chances this is something simple and stupid like consensation in the gas tank?

The question that would come to mind is, how did condensation get in your tank?

I have no idea. But it was very chilly this morning, extremely foggy, damp etc. Isn't that what you use dry gas for, to eliminate this issue ?

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: iamwiz82

Originally posted by: murphy55d
what are the chances this is something simple and stupid like consensation in the gas tank?

The question that would come to mind is, how did condensation get in your tank?

Low tank level and a temperature disparity between the inside and outside of the tank. Fairly common if a tank is low and left that way for a while. But that's a moot point in this situation. Bad gasoline will cause rough running, but it will not cause an intermittant no-start situation. Especially if the times that it does start, it runs fine.



As for the "distributor module", yes it's a real part. I've also heard them called a "coil pack". Essentially, what it means is that your engine does not have a mechanical distributor, but rather has an electronic module that distributes the spark to the cylinders. My educated guess would be to side with your friend on this one, as the morning dampness is apt to cause problems if the coil packs are only in marginal condition. The electronics on modern cars are highly sensitive to environmental variations and while they are usually well-sealed and protected from problems, if anything gets through that seal things go wrong pretty quickly.

ZV

 

[murphy55d]

Thanks ZV, and iamwiz. I went ahead and told him to replace the module, hopefully I have my car back today.

First thing I am doing though is going and getting some of that dry-has formula. Just in case.

 

[thomsbrain]

when my distributor (mechanical) went out, the car would crank but not catch, so it's possible that your friend is right about it being distributor-related.

 

[Ronstang]

I just went through a similar problem. I did a very thorough diagnosis and testing regimen on this vehicle over the course of a couple of weeks to determine the problem. I verified fuel pressure when it cranked but would not start so it had to be electrical/distributor problem. I took the distributor out and tested each component indivifually and each component tested fine. I even removed the module and had the auto parts store use their tester repeatedly to verify that it was OK. Stumped now I sat down and thought for a while. The problem only occured during starting....it never failed while running.....so it had to be in the start cicruit somewhere. The only logical problem left was the ignition switch. I removed the switch and took it apart to find the contacts corroded and worn so they may not alway carry enough amperage to do the job. Cleaned the contacts real well and sanded smooth. Applied dielectric grease for lubrication and corrosion resistance and reassembled. After reinstalling the switch the vehicle has not exhibited the problem in over 2 weeks and before that it had become an almost daily affair of it starting only when it wanted too.