YACT: I'm going to put a deposit down today

I'm going to the Subaru dealer to put a deposit down today on a 2000 Legacy L sedan with a 4AT and AWD. The asking price is $11,990 and I'm going to offer them $11,000. My maximum price is $11,500...should I start lower?

I'll have financing arranged by Monday afternoon, so I'll likely pick up the car Monday evening, but I want to agree on a price and put a deposit down to hold the car.

Any other bargaining suggestions? I noticed when I test drove the car that the tires only had about 40% of their tread left, so that's definitely a negotiation point, but I think I'll need another reason if I'm going to get the salesman down to $11,000.

 

[StageLeft]

I personally would not deposit until financing is sorted out. What if it doesn't go through? Say bye bye to $500. If the car is sold by then, so be it, you'll find another.

Find any problems in the car. Stains, nicks on the paint, etc.

 

Originally posted by: Skoorb
I personally would not deposit until financing is sorted out. What if it doesn't go through? Say bye bye to $500. If the car is sold by then, so be it, you'll find another.

Find any problems in the car. Stains, nicks on the paint, etc.

It'll go through, as my dad will be co-signing. We will be going to his credit union, where he already has a 24 mo., $1000/mo. loan, so I think they'll know he's a good credit risk.

 

[flot]

It all depends on whether or not their "asking price" of $11,990 is reasonable or not. Also where you found the asking price - was that online or was that the first number the salesguy said to you?

The price on the window of the last used car I bought was (I think) $17,900. The price listed on the internet "that's as low as we can possibly go" was $16,500.

I bought it for $15,200. Let them know you're interested, let them know you're serious, and then make an offer that is reasonable for the vehicle. Don't be afraid to walk away if they want too much.

 

Originally posted by: flot
It all depends on whether or not their "asking price" of $11,990 is reasonable or not. Also where you found the asking price - was that online or was that the first number the salesguy said to you?

The price on the window of the last used car I bought was (I think) $17,900. The price listed on the internet "that's as low as we can possibly go" was $16,500.

I bought it for $15,200. Let them know you're interested, let them know you're serious, and then make an offer that is reasonable for the vehicle. Don't be afraid to walk away if they want too much.

The vehicle is spotless (literally spotless, inside and out), and even though it's four years old, there are only 32,000 miles on it. That's why my lowest price seems so high, because I don't realistically think I can get a good price on a Subaru with AWD with that few miles on it.

I'll try, but I think they realize that if I walk, they can get someone else to buy it this week.

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: jumpr

Originally posted by: flot
It all depends on whether or not their "asking price" of $11,990 is reasonable or not. Also where you found the asking price - was that online or was that the first number the salesguy said to you?

The price on the window of the last used car I bought was (I think) $17,900. The price listed on the internet "that's as low as we can possibly go" was $16,500.

I bought it for $15,200. Let them know you're interested, let them know you're serious, and then make an offer that is reasonable for the vehicle. Don't be afraid to walk away if they want too much.

The vehicle is spotless (literally spotless, inside and out), and even though it's four years old, there are only 32,000 miles on it. That's why my lowest price seems so high, because I don't realistically think I can get a good price on a Subaru with AWD with that few miles on it.

I'll try, but I think they realize that if I walk, they can get someone else to buy it this week.

It does seem a very good price (nice car too - I drove a 97 outback wagon, which is similar, a week back).

Something I realized this morning is that if you ask the buyer for a price drop after they know you're going to buy it anyway, they won't give it to you (unless they're an amateur - which this guy won't be, if he works at a dealership). The first two used cars I bought I had decided myself I'd buy them, and though I did't say that, it was pretty obvious. I was unable to get more than about $100 off the asking price, because we both knew I'd buy it anyway. My third car, which was already well priced, I got money off because the salesmen could see I was pretty wary of the purchase in the first price, so he immediately offered a stiff drip on the price. My last car I bought I had decided toactually buy - I told the seller's mother there and then "I'd like to buy this". However, I then spoke to the seller on the cellphone before she had a chance to ask her mother and I lowballed quite a lot - and got it at that price, because she didn't know for sure I'd buy it yet.

If you're slobbering over this car the salesman knows you'll buy it, so I can't imagine you'll get much off it. See if you can find another Subaru locally similar to this one, or another car in the same price range, and be sure to mention it.

 

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: jumpr

Originally posted by: flot
It all depends on whether or not their "asking price" of $11,990 is reasonable or not. Also where you found the asking price - was that online or was that the first number the salesguy said to you?

The price on the window of the last used car I bought was (I think) $17,900. The price listed on the internet "that's as low as we can possibly go" was $16,500.

I bought it for $15,200. Let them know you're interested, let them know you're serious, and then make an offer that is reasonable for the vehicle. Don't be afraid to walk away if they want too much.

The vehicle is spotless (literally spotless, inside and out), and even though it's four years old, there are only 32,000 miles on it. That's why my lowest price seems so high, because I don't realistically think I can get a good price on a Subaru with AWD with that few miles on it.

I'll try, but I think they realize that if I walk, they can get someone else to buy it this week.

It does seem a very good price (nice car too - I drove a 97 outback wagon, which is similar, a week back).

Something I realized this morning is that if you ask the buyer for a price drop after they know you're going to buy it anyway, they won't give it to you (unless they're an amateur - which this guy won't be, if he works at a dealership). The first two used cars I bought I had decided myself I'd buy them, and though I did't say that, it was pretty obvious. I was unable to get more than about $100 off the asking price, because we both knew I'd buy it anyway. My third car, which was already well priced, I got money off because the salesmen could see I was pretty wary of the purchase in the first price, so he immediately offered a stiff drip on the price. My last car I bought I had decided toactually buy - I told the seller's mother there and then "I'd like to buy this". However, I then spoke to the seller on the cellphone before she had a chance to ask her mother and I lowballed quite a lot - and got it at that price, because she didn't know for sure I'd buy it yet.

If you're slobbering over this car the salesman knows you'll buy it, so I can't imagine you'll get much off it. See if you can find another Subaru locally similar to this one, or another car in the same price range, and be sure to mention it.

Good advice. Unfortunately the only other Scooby dealers are 27 and 30 miles away, respectively, and the only similar car they've got is a 2001 Legacy L in a color I don't like for $15,000, which I can't afford.

The dealer is very experienced; he said he's been selling Scoobies for 27 years. However, I drove it last week and told him I liked it, but I also told him I would be looking around at other vehicles. He has no inclination to belive I'm serious about it, nor does he even think I'll be back, for that matter.

But thanks for the tip, I'll subtly let him know that I'm willing to walk if the price isn't right.

 

[Jejunum]

www.cobbtuning.com for a few parts once u get it

and www.nasioc.com/forums

most of the 2.5 impreza performance parts fits ur legacy...

 

Originally posted by: Jejunum
www.cobbtuning.com for a few parts once u get it

and www.nasioc.com/forums

most of the 2.5 impreza performance parts fits ur legacy...

Yeah, I really like how Subaru uses the 2.5l in all their 4-cylinder cars; that way I don't feel like I'm losing out much by getting an L instead of a GT.

 

[ElFenix]

have you taken it to a decent mechanic and had it looked at?

 

[Vette73]

I would offer something a lot lower, like 10K to 10.3K range. Their price if a high "I Hope some idiot will pay this" and your offer should be "Damm that would rock if they took this low ball offer" THEN meet in the middle aroind the high 10 to low 11K mark

You are probable never gong to deal with that sales man again, so why be all nice to him. Get the best deal, and that involves low balling.

 

Originally posted by: ElFenix
have you taken it to a decent mechanic and had it looked at?

I was planning on running a CarFax...but do you think this is an imperative step, considering the mileage?

 

Also, there is still another year of the 5-year, 60,000 mile powertrain warranty on the vehicle, FYI.

 

[vi edit]

Just FYI - you can buy a new one for $18,000-$19,000 and get 1.9% financing for 63 months.

 

[freebee]

Originally posted by: jumpr
Also, there is still another year of the 5-year, 60,000 mile powertrain warranty on the vehicle, FYI.

Make sure you get the coolant additive to get your warranty extended to 8 years/100k miles (for external headgaskets)......the 2.5 overall is an ok engine, but some of the mechanical troubles are disturbing.

At least the legacy doesnt suffer from wheel bearing probs of many other subies, though the center diff is just as weak....remember not to do handbrake turns in an awd car unless you can release the center diff, I fried mine trying to do rally car impressions.

 

Originally posted by: freebee

Originally posted by: jumpr
Also, there is still another year of the 5-year, 60,000 mile powertrain warranty on the vehicle, FYI.

Make sure you get the coolant additive to get your warranty extended to 8 years/100k miles.

?!?!

 

Originally posted by: vi_edit
Just FYI - you can buy a new one for $18,000-$19,000 and get 1.9% financing for 63 months.

I can't afford a $300/mo. car payment, and I need a new car ASAP, as my car was totalled last week (not my fault, insurance $$ will be going to the down payment). Besides, I am a low-mileage driver too, and judging by how well Subarus hold their resale, I'll have no problem getting a good deal on a trade a couple years down the road.

 

[Pliablemoose]

I agree with Marlin, lowball the salesman, see what they come up with, usually car prices are a meet in the middle/split the difference compromise...

 

Originally posted by: Pliablemoose
I agree with Marlin, lowball the salesman, see what they come up with, usually car prices are a meet in the middle/split the difference compromise...

How do I get over the fact that I'll feel like an idiot offering $10k for this car knowing he won't accept? How should I introduce the figure? "I am prepared to drop $10k on this car now." Is that okay?

 

[StageLeft]

Does it still have full factory _bumper to bumper_ warranty? If so getting it checked out by a mechanic is probably not imperative. It's worth doing for peace of mind, but if you have bumper to bumper anything major can get fixed under that anyway.

 

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Does it still have full factory _bumper to bumper_ warranty? If so getting it checked out by a mechanic is probably not imperative. It's worth doing for peace of mind, but if you have bumper to bumper anything major can get fixed under that anyway.

No, just powertrain.

 

[StageLeft]

Originally posted by: jumpr

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Does it still have full factory _bumper to bumper_ warranty? If so getting it checked out by a mechanic is probably not imperative. It's worth doing for peace of mind, but if you have bumper to bumper anything major can get fixed under that anyway.

No, just powertrain.

If you don't have a mechanic check it out, do a thorough inspection of the suspension to look for cracked boots, and under the wheels to look for cracked boots on the CV joints. Also look underneath for any leaking fluids. Check under the oil cap and on the dipstick to ensure the oil looks good, and dito for the cooling system. Make sure there are no leaks and look in the coolant reservoir, and under the radiator cap looking for any nastiness. Plus check all lights, AC, wipers, cruise, etc. Make sure all VINs from various parts of the car match up, all doors/windows work correctly, with seamless lines between door panels, etc.

Of course things like brake wear and what not a mechanic would give you numbers on too.

 

[badluck]

You get over feeling like an idiot for offering $10k, when you consider you are doing a business deal. You are trying to spend the least amount of possible, and they are trying to make as much profit as possible. So, treat it like a business deal, and stop worrying about emotions. Don't get emotional about the car until you own it. That is why dealers have the upperhand with most customers. Many get attached to cars before they sign the dotted line. The dealer probably has room to wiggle, so see how far they will wiggle

Again, the extra $500-$100 you save by haggling could go into your pocket or theirs.....keep cool and keep the money in your pocket.

 

Originally posted by: Skoorb

Originally posted by: jumpr

Originally posted by: Skoorb
Does it still have full factory _bumper to bumper_ warranty? If so getting it checked out by a mechanic is probably not imperative. It's worth doing for peace of mind, but if you have bumper to bumper anything major can get fixed under that anyway.

No, just powertrain.

If you don't have a mechanic check it out, do a thorough inspection of the suspension to look for cracked boots, and under the wheels to look for cracked boots on the CV joints. Also look underneath for any leaking fluids. Check under the oil cap and on the dipstick to ensure the oil looks good, and dito for the cooling system. Make sure there are no leaks and look in the coolant reservoir, and under the radiator cap looking for any nastiness. Plus check all lights, AC, wipers, cruise, etc. Make sure all VINs from various parts of the car match up, all doors/windows work correctly, with seamless lines between door panels, etc.

Of course things like brake wear and what not a mechanic would give you numbers on too.

Just made up a checklist...thanks for the help! I'll check all that stuff during the test drive in my driveway (the dealer is close to my house, and I've got ramps there).

 

[flot]

oh boy there are a lot of things to discuss here

1) Lowballing is okay, but you don't want to *insult* the seller. You should try to establish what the correct "cheap" price for the car is. It might be $10,000 it might be $11,000. However, dealers usually ask for a good bit more than they'll accept - because lots of people will walk in and say "What? $11,990? I'll give you $11,750" which they will take in a heartbeat. At the same time, if you go in and offer $7000, the dealer will know you have no idea what the real price of the car should be, so he will do whatever he can to screw you over.

2) You should absolutely run a carfax. The biggest reason, is to see if the car has been in any accidents. If it has, the dealer will have the option to deny any warranty claims (legitimately, lots of repair shops don't put cars back together right) in the future.

3) At a dealership, you don't need to play games if you are a decent negotiator, or at least can stand firm on what you want to pay. IE there is no reason to walk around the car pointing out every single scratch or ding. Just tell them you like the car, you'd like to buy the car, but you don't want to spend more than $x for it. If you have done your homework, $x will be a number agreeable to both you and the dealer, but you'll still have to do a little negotiation to get them to accept it. If $x is a "fair" price for both of you, and that's what you name - I would expect the final price the dealer to accept to be $200-$300 above $x. That's reasonable.

4) As far as letting the seller know you WANT the car - you don't want to be rabid about it, but you also want to make sure they understand you aren't wasting their time. You don't get their real price until they know that you will take the car off their hands, that day.