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YACT: I just need this cleared up...

Gamingphreek

Gamingphreek

Lifer
I was cleaning out my trucks glove compartment and i looked through some old bills and stuff from when my uncle had the car.

We knew he had the transmission replaced at around 75K Miles (So about 30K miles ago), but on there it also had that they resurfaced the flywheel.

Can someone please explain a little bit about a flywheel to me and why you would need to resurface it?

-Kevin

Edit: Also on a side note, i just changed the oil and decided to throw in an extra dollar (had change in my pocket) for a high grade oil filter. Is that just like everything else that is premium...it is all marketing, or will it help the engine ever so slightly.
 
The flywheel is connected to your engine - in a nutshell, it's what attaches to your clutch, so your wheels spin and you go.

If you think of the clutch as the brake pad, the flywheel is the rotor. Same idea, just the complete opposite.
 
Originally posted by: BD2003
The flywheel is connected to your engine - in a nutshell, it's what attaches to your clutch, so your wheels spin and you go.

If you think of the clutch as the brake pad, the flywheel is the rotor. Same idea, just the complete opposite.
Click to expand...

OH!!!!!! Damn i knew that concept all along then. I just didn't know that the fly wheel was what the clutch made contact with (Didn't recognize the name)

-Kevin
 
Originally posted by: DainBramaged
When you are talking about oil filters, define "high grade." Do you consider Fram's most expensive filter "high grade?"
Click to expand...

Yeah i think it was a Fram "Tough-" something or other. But in general to higher grade filters do anything whatsoever other than get rid of my spare change.

-Kevin
 
I think the FRAM Tough line is supposed to be designed for vehicles that are exposed to more dusty environments than the average car (i.e. construction or offroad vehicles). I always get the regular FRAM filter for my cars.
 
Originally posted by: VanTheMan
I think the FRAM Tough line is supposed to be designed for vehicles that are exposed to more dusty environments than the average car (i.e. construction or offroad vehicles). I always get the regular FRAM filter for my cars.
Click to expand...

Yeah! Thats the one that i got. I drive a truck, just not offroad much at all. I just threw in the extra change. Isn't the oil filter going to be pretty much the same.

-Kevin
 
Originally posted by: VanTheMan
I think the FRAM Tough line is supposed to be designed for vehicles that are exposed to more dusty environments than the average car (i.e. construction or offroad vehicles). I always get the regular FRAM filter for my cars.
Click to expand...

At one point in time, there was one brand (fram or purolator, can't remember which) that the premium model included a check valve that prevented all of the oil in the head from draining down into the sump, and thus prevented dry starts. I can't remember which model it was, mabye all of them do that now. Just saying that at one point in time, it WASNT all marketing.

As far as filtering capacity, I'm sure on the bench it does what it says it will do. In reality, I doubt it will make much of a difference. If you have a slugde prone engine (Toyota 5SFE or the 1Z come to mind) I could see it being a benefit there. At the same time, I've seen engines run for 200,000 miles on terrible oil. Its a crapshoot.
 
Originally posted by: Gamingphreek
Originally posted by: VanTheMan
I think the FRAM Tough line is supposed to be designed for vehicles that are exposed to more dusty environments than the average car (i.e. construction or offroad vehicles). I always get the regular FRAM filter for my cars.
Click to expand...

Yeah! Thats the one that i got. I drive a truck, just not offroad much at all. I just threw in the extra change. Isn't the oil filter going to be pretty much the same.

-Kevin
Click to expand...

A better oil filter will let less, and only small contaminants in. It's a good thing in general, although FRAM isn't exactly known for making the best filters.

It's kind of the same idea over whether synthetic is worth it. Synthetic is better in just about every way, but can be considered overkill. Modern engine will last plenty long on dino oil and cheap filters - probably much longer than youre willing to use it, considering the engine itself is usually one of the last things to completely crap out as a car wears out over the years.

But if you want to baby your car, synthetic and good filters will certainly do that. I figure it's money well spent protecting my baby - for an extra dollar, no question its worth it, although I'd go with mobil 1 oil and filters.

Although if your car already has high miles on dino oil, you generally don't want to switch to synthetic.
 
Originally posted by: Gamingphreek
Originally posted by: BD2003
The flywheel is connected to your engine - in a nutshell, it's what attaches to your clutch, so your wheels spin and you go.

If you think of the clutch as the brake pad, the flywheel is the rotor. Same idea, just the complete opposite.
Click to expand...

OH!!!!!! Damn i knew that concept all along then. I just didn't know that the fly wheel was what the clutch made contact with (Didn't recognize the name)

-Kevin
Click to expand...

Maybe on some cars, but on all *(check edit below) * the cars I am familiar with the flywheel is seperate from the clutch, and doesn't get used for clutch contact.
The flywheel is basically a weight that is used to keep the engine rotating between the cylinder firing order at lower rpms. It is usually also the contact point for the starter motor, with gear teeth around the flywheel rim.

*edit, wait, I have seen some cars that use the flywheel as the other half of the clutch* 😛
 
Originally posted by: hoorah
Originally posted by: VanTheMan
I think the FRAM Tough line is supposed to be designed for vehicles that are exposed to more dusty environments than the average car (i.e. construction or offroad vehicles). I always get the regular FRAM filter for my cars.
Click to expand...

At one point in time, there was one brand (fram or purolator, can't remember which) that the premium model included a check valve that prevented all of the oil in the head from draining down into the sump, and thus prevented dry starts. I can't remember which model it was, mabye all of them do that now. Just saying that at one point in time, it WASNT all marketing.

As far as filtering capacity, I'm sure on the bench it does what it says it will do. In reality, I doubt it will make much of a difference. If you have a slugde prone engine (Toyota 5SFE or the 1Z come to mind) I could see it being a benefit there. At the same time, I've seen engines run for 200,000 miles on terrible oil. Its a crapshoot.
Click to expand...

Engine is a V6 Electronic Fuel Injection. 3.0 Liter. The Engine model is a Toyota 3VZ-E.

As far as synthetic oil goes it isn't worth it at this point. The car has 104K miles on it and i just did a tuneup myself on it (New Intake Manifold Gasket, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Fuel Filter, Clean Intake Manifold etc...). Additionally we just got a new Cat back exhaust put on since the old one broke (Tailpipe separated from the Muffler). Dropping more money on a car that keeps nickle and diming me probably isn't the best route.

I thought FRAM were generally regarded as Good Quality filters. I dont know about the best, but certainly not poor quality. Am i mistaken?

As for the flywheel, why would they need to resurface it when they put the new transmission in. Would that imply that the old transmission was slipping or something?

-Kevin
 
Originally posted by: Gamingphreek
Originally posted by: hoorah
Originally posted by: VanTheMan
I think the FRAM Tough line is supposed to be designed for vehicles that are exposed to more dusty environments than the average car (i.e. construction or offroad vehicles). I always get the regular FRAM filter for my cars.
Click to expand...

At one point in time, there was one brand (fram or purolator, can't remember which) that the premium model included a check valve that prevented all of the oil in the head from draining down into the sump, and thus prevented dry starts. I can't remember which model it was, mabye all of them do that now. Just saying that at one point in time, it WASNT all marketing.

As far as filtering capacity, I'm sure on the bench it does what it says it will do. In reality, I doubt it will make much of a difference. If you have a slugde prone engine (Toyota 5SFE or the 1Z come to mind) I could see it being a benefit there. At the same time, I've seen engines run for 200,000 miles on terrible oil. Its a crapshoot.
Click to expand...

Engine is a V6 Electronic Fuel Injection. 3.0 Liter. The Engine model is a Toyota 3VZ-E.

As far as synthetic oil goes it isn't worth it at this point. The car has 104K miles on it and i just did a tuneup myself on it (New Intake Manifold Gasket, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Fuel Filter, Clean Intake Manifold etc...). Additionally we just got a new Cat back exhaust put on since the old one broke (Tailpipe separated from the Muffler). Dropping more money on a car that keeps nickle and diming me probably isn't the best route.

I thought FRAM were generally regarded as Good Quality filters. I dont know about the best, but certainly not poor quality. Am i mistaken?

As for the flywheel, why would they need to resurface it when they put the new transmission in. Would that imply that the old transmission was slipping or something?

-Kevin
Click to expand...

Because it needs a proper surface for the clutch to attach to - just like how your rotors usually need to be resurfaced/replaced when you get new pads. AFAIK, brake pads and clutch material are actually quite similar, as they serve essentially the same purpose in a different direction.

If they replaced your whole tranny, I'd assume they'd replace the clutch along with it, and naturally, when you replace the clutch, you resurface the flywheel.

Manual tranny's slip by design, they have to, otherwise you've never be able to smoothly get moving from a start. It's when they start slipping when you don't want it to that it becomes a problem, and its time to get the clutch replaced 🙂

You'd be the one to tell us whether or not it was slipping, you're the one who got it replaced. 😛 Did you just get a clutch job or a full rebuild/replacement of the entire transmission?
 
I can't find it off hand, but there was an oil filter comparison done and FRAM was found to be the sh!t bottom of the barrel. Buy OEM filters; probly about the same price and are everything your car needs. FRAM on the other hand filters like crap and while I can't remember the exact terminology, some of the more critical parts inside are made of cardboard and fall apart.
 
Originally posted by: BD2003
Originally posted by: Gamingphreek
Originally posted by: hoorah
Originally posted by: VanTheMan
I think the FRAM Tough line is supposed to be designed for vehicles that are exposed to more dusty environments than the average car (i.e. construction or offroad vehicles). I always get the regular FRAM filter for my cars.
Click to expand...

At one point in time, there was one brand (fram or purolator, can't remember which) that the premium model included a check valve that prevented all of the oil in the head from draining down into the sump, and thus prevented dry starts. I can't remember which model it was, mabye all of them do that now. Just saying that at one point in time, it WASNT all marketing.

As far as filtering capacity, I'm sure on the bench it does what it says it will do. In reality, I doubt it will make much of a difference. If you have a slugde prone engine (Toyota 5SFE or the 1Z come to mind) I could see it being a benefit there. At the same time, I've seen engines run for 200,000 miles on terrible oil. Its a crapshoot.
Click to expand...

Engine is a V6 Electronic Fuel Injection. 3.0 Liter. The Engine model is a Toyota 3VZ-E.

As far as synthetic oil goes it isn't worth it at this point. The car has 104K miles on it and i just did a tuneup myself on it (New Intake Manifold Gasket, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Fuel Filter, Clean Intake Manifold etc...). Additionally we just got a new Cat back exhaust put on since the old one broke (Tailpipe separated from the Muffler). Dropping more money on a car that keeps nickle and diming me probably isn't the best route.

I thought FRAM were generally regarded as Good Quality filters. I dont know about the best, but certainly not poor quality. Am i mistaken?

As for the flywheel, why would they need to resurface it when they put the new transmission in. Would that imply that the old transmission was slipping or something?

-Kevin
Click to expand...

Because it needs a proper surface for the clutch to attach to - just like how your rotors usually need to be resurfaced/replaced when you get new pads. AFAIK, brake pads and clutch material are actually quite similar, as they serve essentially the same purpose in a different direction.

If they replaced your whole tranny, I'd assume they'd replace the clutch along with it, and naturally, when you replace the clutch, you resurface the flywheel.

Manual tranny's slip by design, they have to, otherwise you've never be able to smoothly get moving from a start. It's when they start slipping when you don't want it to that it becomes a problem, and its time to get the clutch replaced 🙂

You'd be the one to tell us whether or not it was slipping, you're the one who got it replaced. 😛 Did you just get a clutch job or a full rebuild/replacement of the entire transmission?
Click to expand...

No no i didn't get it replaced. This was my uncles car and he got it replaced. He passed away (along with my Grandpa) Christmas time 2003. Afterwards my aunt wanted to keep the car in the family so my parents bought it for me to use 🙂

I just saw the details of what went on when the transmission was replaced.

-Kevin
 
Originally posted by: Nyati13
Originally posted by: Gamingphreek
Originally posted by: BD2003
The flywheel is connected to your engine - in a nutshell, it's what attaches to your clutch, so your wheels spin and you go.

If you think of the clutch as the brake pad, the flywheel is the rotor. Same idea, just the complete opposite.
Click to expand...

OH!!!!!! Damn i knew that concept all along then. I just didn't know that the fly wheel was what the clutch made contact with (Didn't recognize the name)

-Kevin
Click to expand...

Maybe on some cars, but on all *(check edit below) * the cars I am familiar with the flywheel is seperate from the clutch, and doesn't get used for clutch contact.
The flywheel is basically a weight that is used to keep the engine rotating between the cylinder firing order at lower rpms. It is usually also the contact point for the starter motor, with gear teeth around the flywheel rim.

*edit, wait, I have seen some cars that use the flywheel as the other half of the clutch* 😛
Click to expand...

It does what you explain as well to get the engine started. But if other cars aren't using the flywheel to connect the tranny to the engine, how else are they doing it?
 
Yup, Fram sucks ass....

Also, if he had the flywheel resurfaced it would be safe to assume that the clutch was replaced was well. 🙂
 
Originally posted by: Nutdotnet
Yup, Fram sucks ass....

Also, if he had the flywheel resurfaced it would be safe to assume that the clutch was replaced was well. 🙂
Click to expand...

Yeah it was, i was just wondering why you would resurface the fly wheel.

-Kevin
 
Originally posted by: Gamingphreek
Originally posted by: Nutdotnet
Yup, Fram sucks ass....

Also, if he had the flywheel resurfaced it would be safe to assume that the clutch was replaced was well. 🙂
Click to expand...

Yeah it was, i was just wondering why you would resurface the fly wheel.

-Kevin
Click to expand...

because if you don't you will get clutch judder as you engage it.
 
Originally posted by: thomsbrain
what i want to know is how the OP managed to kill the manual tranny in a toyota truck after only 75,000 miles.
Click to expand...

Omg did you even READ!?

I got the car from my uncle. He replaced the transmission because he really liked the car and wanted it to last longer. Apparently as written in the notes, the gears were sticking or something.

I DIDN"T HAVE THE CAR!

AFAIK the old transmission would still be just fine.

-Kevin
 
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