YACT: how to break in new rotors, with old pads.

[Maximus96]

i have a new set of front and back rotors coming for the maxima. My pads still has alot of 'meat' left and i don't plan on changing them yet. i looked briefly on google and the instructions are for breaking in new pads and new rotors. how should i do it with old pads and new rotors?

 

[IGBT]

..if your going to r/r the rotors it would be wise to install new pads as well. get new technology "ceramic" pads. break in is easy. normal driving with no hard em stop braking.

 

[Papagayo]

If you are putting a new rotor, it would be best to spend $20 and get new pads also..

 

[imported_Pablo]

Originally posted by: Papagayo
If you are putting a new rotor, it would be best to spend $20 and get new pads also..

 

[Maximus96]

well, my pads were new ceramic raybestos quiet stops as of 1.5 years ago. i already spent $215 on the rotors so i'm not too keen on new pads just yet.

 

[Maximus96]

Originally posted by: IGBT
..if your going to r/r the rotors it would be wise to install new pads as well. get new technology "ceramic" pads. break in is easy. normal driving with no hard em stop braking.

the instructions i read online is to break hard, from 60-10, about 8 times in a row...

 

[Reggae4k]

drive to 100mph, then stop as hard as you can.

 

[MikeMike]

if your pads have any gouges in them, you will gouge your rotors as well...

just get new pads, they arent THAT expensive.

 

[Maximus96]

Originally posted by: MIKEMIKE
if your pads have any gouges in them, you will gouge your rotors as well...

just get new pads, they arent THAT expensive.

its another 100+ for the raybesto ceramics...

 

[IGBT]

Originally posted by: Maximus96

Originally posted by: IGBT
..if your going to r/r the rotors it would be wise to install new pads as well. get new technology "ceramic" pads. break in is easy. normal driving with no hard em stop braking.

the instructions i read online is to break hard, from 60-10, about 8 times in a row...

..that will cause "glazing" on the surface of the rotor resulting in poor braking characteristics i.e.brake fade at low speed. (poor low speed sensitivity).

 

[Maximus96]

Originally posted by: IGBT

Originally posted by: Maximus96

Originally posted by: IGBT
..if your going to r/r the rotors it would be wise to install new pads as well. get new technology "ceramic" pads. break in is easy. normal driving with no hard em stop braking.

the instructions i read online is to break hard, from 60-10, about 8 times in a row...

..that will cause "glazing" on the surface of the rotor resulting in poor braking characteristics i.e.brake fade at low speed. (poor low speed sensitivity).

according to this site,

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

is the the glazing you're talking about? it seem to be a good thing according to the site.

 

[IGBT]

Originally posted by: Maximus96

Originally posted by: IGBT

Originally posted by: Maximus96

Originally posted by: IGBT
..if your going to r/r the rotors it would be wise to install new pads as well. get new technology "ceramic" pads. break in is easy. normal driving with no hard em stop braking.

the instructions i read online is to break hard, from 60-10, about 8 times in a row...

..that will cause "glazing" on the surface of the rotor resulting in poor braking characteristics i.e.brake fade at low speed. (poor low speed sensitivity).

according to this site,

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

is the the glazing you're talking about? it seem to be a good thing according to the site.

..glazing occurs when the rotor surface becomes case hardened from over temp. when that kind of failure happens the rotors have to be milled to remove the glaze and expose a new surface. depending on the damage to the rotors they may have to take off a lot of material to get below the glaze thus reducing the life of the rotor. if the rotors are too thin most shops won't/shouldn't mill them.

 

[Maximus96]

how do i tell between glazing and this benefitial blue tint/light gray film?

 

[IGBT]

Originally posted by: Maximus96
how do i tell between glazing and this benefitial blue tint/light gray film?

..I don't know. I never made that big a deal about it. I don't race and just drive at limit or less . If your not shure mabe a brake shop is in order??

 

[tfinch2]

If you replace rotors, it's best to replace the pads as well. It's not going to break anything if you don't, but the old pads will have uneven wear on the new rotors, and your braking performance will suffer.

But come on, you just spent $215 on new rotors. What's another $100 for nice pads too?

 

[tw1164]

Yeah, I thought it was a car sin to use your old pads when you replace your rotors.

 

[Maximus96]

well damnit, i may have to reconsider then. I can't help but feel i'm wasting money because there's more than half of the meat left on the old pads.

 

[Compton]

I have reused pads with new rotors and never had a problem.

 

[jtvang125]

Originally posted by: Maximus96
well damnit, i may have to reconsider then. I can't help but feel i'm wasting money because there's more than half of the meat left on the old pads.

Why not hold onto those pads, get new ones and when the new ones are out put those back in?

 

[tfinch2]

Originally posted by: jtvang125

Originally posted by: Maximus96
well damnit, i may have to reconsider then. I can't help but feel i'm wasting money because there's more than half of the meat left on the old pads.

Why not hold onto those pads, get new ones and when the new ones are out put those back in?

I doubt he'll keep a 96 maxima long enough to where the pads wear out again.

 

[Maximus96]

i don't suppose there places that re-surface pads like they do rotors? maybe i can just take a bit off and have a new, flat pad surface exposed.

 

[deadlyapp]

Proper brake in for most pads are as follows:
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.