YACT: Front Brakes Sticking - why?

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Analog

Analog

Lifer
Jan 7, 2002
12,755
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I have a 94 Transport Minivan. I have noticed that my front right brake sticks, like it is lightly braking all the time. The wheel gets pretty hot after a drive, and when in drive, at idle, the car doesn't move on a flat surface (it used to, like it should).

What could be causing this? My brakes work fine, and the pads are good, brake fluid level looks good too.
 
StageLeft

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
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Q

Quixfire

Diamond Member
Jul 31, 2001
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Originally posted by: Skoorb
As if I know, but I'd guess that the caliper is lightly stuck.
Click to expand...
Good guess Skoorb, I would say it the caliper piston binding in the piston bore. It also could be the caliper slide pins, either way a reman caliper should fix your concern. Also if you vehicle has more than 50K miles it would be a good idea to replace both front calipers so your braking remains balanced.

I would get this serviced soon before the rotor warps from excessive heating.
 
G

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
6,986
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Originally posted by: yellowfiero
I have a 94 Transport Minivan. I have noticed that my front right brake sticks, like it is lightly braking all the time. The wheel gets pretty hot after a drive, and when in drive, at idle, the car doesn't move on a flat surface (it used to, like it should).

What could be causing this? My brakes work fine, and the pads are good, brake fluid level looks good too.
Click to expand...


Pull the calipers off and overhaul them. Cleaning and a seal change should do it. Clean with hot soapy water using a
low grit scrubbing pad, be sure and get the seal groove super clean. Assemble using the special grease on the
caliper seal ring. The grease I'm reffing to is meant for brake component assembly. The parts must be dry of water at assembly.

When you remove the brake lines from the calipers plug them so the fluid does not drain out. This will prevent air from entering the system and make successful bleeding easier.

If your caliper pistons are made out of some type of phenolic material, replace the pistons or it may just be cheaper to exchange the calipers.


Read me..Text..if fluid is bled to clear every 2-4
years the system has a long happy life. After this is posted someone will come along and state that I never changed fluid in 300k and never had a problem. I don't take that gamble ;)
 
Analog

Analog

Lifer
Jan 7, 2002
12,755
3
0
Originally posted by: galvanizedyankee
Originally posted by: yellowfiero
I have a 94 Transport Minivan. I have noticed that my front right brake sticks, like it is lightly braking all the time. The wheel gets pretty hot after a drive, and when in drive, at idle, the car doesn't move on a flat surface (it used to, like it should).

What could be causing this? My brakes work fine, and the pads are good, brake fluid level looks good too.
Click to expand...


Pull the calipers off and overhaul them. Cleaning and a seal change should do it. Clean with hot soapy water using a
low grit scrubbing pad, be sure and get the seal groove super clean. Assemble using the special grease on the
caliper seal ring. The grease I'm reffing to is meant for brake component assembly. The parts must be dry of water at assembly.

When you remove the brake lines from the calipers plug them so the fluid does not drain out. This will prevent air from entering the system and make successful bleeding easier.

If your caliper pistons are made out of some type of phenolic material, replace the pistons or it may just be cheaper to exchange the calipers.


Read me..Text..if fluid is bled to clear every 2-4
years the system has a long happy life. After this is posted someone will come along and state that I never changed fluid in 300k and never had a problem. I don't take that gamble ;)
Click to expand...

thanks for the post. My vehicle has 168,000 miles on it. Original calipers etc. And original fluid. I've changed pads and rotors before, but never bled brakes. For someone with this level of knowledge, would bleeding the system be in line with that skill level?

Also, what are the consequences of not changing the fluid for so long - what happens?
 
T

TitanDiddly

Guest
Dec 8, 2003
12,696
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My brother has a problem with one of his rear wheels on his 80's BWM 325 locking up at random times. We suspect the caliper.
 
G

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
6,986
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0
yellowfiero, read the link I posted in this thread, it's all in there concerning brake fluid.


Bleeding brakes is not all that difficult, search"bleeder"thread in OT. Pay particular attention to what Quixfire & I had
to say. If you let an ABS system drain as you do the calipers it can be a bit of a hassle to get all the air out.
Get a decent manual and have at it.

As a caution: Some ABS valve bodies require special bleeding procedure, thats why you may need a manual.
Another caution: On a hi-mileage car it is a good idea to make sure the bleed screws are not rusted on. If they don't
crack open with some ease, rap the open end squarely with a smooth faced "lite" hammer. Crack them open with a socket or box end wrench. Do this before you even start the repair as a stuck bleed screw can break off and better to have it happen at the start of the job than at the end. Once the bleeder is free close it, of course :)

Thats why I said to block the lines when they are taken off the calipers. Some shade tree guys clamp the lines with vise-grips, DO NOT do this. Most lines I will just stuff in a tapered rubber stopper of some sort or if its a straight fitting a pencil will do.

 
G

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
6,986
0
0
Avoid pumping the brake pedal to bleed the hydraulics as it will cause cavitation.
Use a hand vacuum pump and bleed ...sloowlyyy.

Read the thread on "bleeder" :)
 
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