• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

YACT: difficulty shifting in 1st gear at a stand still

upsciLLion

Diamond Member
The Forrest Ranger's been giving me trouble lately. It doesn't like shifting into first gear from a stand still. Usually I downshift into first as I coast towards stop signs and stop lights which works just fine. Shifting into reverse also typically requires a bit of elbow grease. I know the clutch was replaced at least once, maybe twice, before I bought the beast (at 107k miles), so I'm going assume the clutch isn't the problem since it's as new as it is and most of the miles on the truck since I bought it have been freeway miles.

Any ideas, cost estimates, or further questions?

Thanks!
 
What happens if, at a standstill, you shift into second, and then into first, without taking your foot off the clutch. If that works, it could be a synchronizer problem.
 
Reverse, being un-synchronized, will always be more difficult to get into than the other gears.

First gear typically does not have as robust a synchronizer and with age (and 155,000 miles counts as age) it will get more difficult to shift into 1st unless you are completely stopped and have the clutch fully disengaged (that is, the clutch pedal completely to the floor). This is especially true if you typically put the car into 1st gear at speeds above about 5 mph.

It sounds to me as though one of three things is happening.

1) Clutch has come out of adjustment. This has NOTHING to do with the age/wear on the clutch disc, but rather with the clutch linkage mechanism.

2) Clutch is worn out. You say that you "know" it has been replaced. How do you know? It is not at all uncommon for a clutch to last 150,000 miles, or more, depending on driver style. Unless you have receipts from a mechanic to indicate that the clutch was changed, you have no reason to assume that it was ever replaced. I replaced the original clutch in my 951 this year at 153,000 miles.

3) Synchros are worn. Short of rebuilding the transmission, you'll just have to live with it, though it can sometimes be ameliorated by changing over to synthetic transmission fluid.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Umberger
What happens if, at a standstill, you shift into second, and then into first, without taking your foot off the clutch. If that works, it could be a synchronizer problem.

That's usually what I end up doing. It's easier than just ramming it into first, but it still requires a bit of man-handling.
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Reverse, being un-synchronized, will always be more difficult to get into than the other gears.

First gear typically does not have as robust a synchronizer and with age (and 155,000 miles counts as age) it will get more difficult to shift into 1st unless you are completely stopped and have the clutch fully disengaged (that is, the clutch pedal completely to the floor). This is especially true if you typically put the car into 1st gear at speeds above about 5 mph.

It sounds to me as though one of three things is happening.

1) Clutch has come out of adjustment. This has NOTHING to do with the age/wear on the clutch disc, but rather with the clutch linkage mechanism.

2) Clutch is worn out. You say that you "know" it has been replaced. How do you know? It is not at all uncommon for a clutch to last 150,000 miles, or more, depending on driver style. Unless you have receipts from a mechanic to indicate that the clutch was changed, you have no reason to assume that it was ever replaced. I replaced the original clutch in my 951 this year at 153,000 miles.

3) Synchros are worn. Short of rebuilding the transmission, you'll just have to live with it, though it can sometimes be ameliorated by changing over to synthetic transmission fluid.

ZV

The previous owner told me it had been replaced twice but didn't have any receipts to show for it, so no I don't know it was replaced for a fact. 🙂

Should I just take her to the shop and have them look at it?
 
When was the last time the car has its transmission oil replace? It's recommend replacing the transmission oil every 50K miles.
 
Originally posted by: V00DOO
When was the last time the car has its transmission oil replace? It's recommend replacing the transmission oil every 50K miles.

I'm not sure. I'll probably be putting that on my to do list.
 
Originally posted by: upsciLLion
The previous owner told me it had been replaced twice but didn't have any receipts to show for it, so no I don't know it was replaced for a fact. 🙂

Should I just take her to the shop and have them look at it?
OK, I'd be inclined to say that the clutch is less likely then. However, replacing a clutch twice in 107,000 miles? That would be an immediate red flag for me since it's a pretty reliable indicator that the previous owner didn't know how to shift.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: V00DOO
When was the last time the car has its transmission oil replace? It's recommend replacing the transmission oil every 50K miles.
That depends on the car.

Some cars recommend changing transmission fluid every 30,000 miles, some every 60,000 miles, and some newer cars are supposedly good for the life of the vehicle.

For a '92 Ranger 4x4: The front differential fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles, the transfer case fluid every 60,000 miles, and rear differential fluid every 100,000 miles. Transmission oil change is not listed, but for most cars it has been either the same interval as the rear differential or an even longer interval.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: upsciLLion
The previous owner told me it had been replaced twice but didn't have any receipts to show for it, so no I don't know it was replaced for a fact. 🙂

Should I just take her to the shop and have them look at it?
OK, I'd be inclined to say that the clutch is less likely then. However, replacing a clutch twice in 107,000 miles? That would be an immediate red flag for me since it's a pretty reliable indicator that the previous owner didn't know how to shift.

ZV

Yeah, I think the guy just didn't know how to drive. v😱v As for the clutch itself, it always grips well and has never had any slippage, so I figured it was something else.

Thanks for the input, guys. It's much appreciated. :lips:
 
You also might try, for the interim, double-shifting while you're stopped and in neutral before attempting to get into first. If the synchros are worn in first gear, sometimes double-shifting along with a bump in the rpm's, can sometimes make it easier to get into first.

But it does sound more like misadjusted linkage or worn disc, as ZV suggested.
 
you should have a Mazda M5OD transmission, a few things to keep in mind with these

1) they are light duty transmission, there actually rated to tow less the the crappy ass a4ld automatic

2) check the rubber plugs on the top of the transmission. in some versions/years there known to dryout,crack, or fall out leading to fluid loss and the tranny burning up. once they've been run low on fluid there toasted and will need a rebuild

3) use the CORRECT fluid. use ATF and the correct ATF at that (consult your manual) if you take it someplace and they put Gl5 or something in it kick there ass.

theres a bunch of guys on explorerforum.com and therangerstation.com that know these trannys inside and out.
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Reverse, being un-synchronized, will always be more difficult to get into than the other gears.

First gear typically does not have as robust a synchronizer and with age (and 155,000 miles counts as age) it will get more difficult to shift into 1st unless you are completely stopped and have the clutch fully disengaged (that is, the clutch pedal completely to the floor). This is especially true if you typically put the car into 1st gear at speeds above about 5 mph.

It sounds to me as though one of three things is happening.

1) Clutch has come out of adjustment. This has NOTHING to do with the age/wear on the clutch disc, but rather with the clutch linkage mechanism.

2) Clutch is worn out. You say that you "know" it has been replaced. How do you know? It is not at all uncommon for a clutch to last 150,000 miles, or more, depending on driver style. Unless you have receipts from a mechanic to indicate that the clutch was changed, you have no reason to assume that it was ever replaced. I replaced the original clutch in my 951 this year at 153,000 miles.

3) Synchros are worn. Short of rebuilding the transmission, you'll just have to live with it, though it can sometimes be ameliorated by changing over to synthetic transmission fluid.

ZV

I vote 1 or 3. 😀
 
Originally posted by: OrganizedChaos
you should have a Mazda M5OD transmission, a few things to keep in mind with these

1) they are light duty transmission, there actually rated to tow less the the crappy ass a4ld automatic
Um, look at the ratings for large pickups. The automatic ALWAYS has a higher tow rating than the manual.

The only reason that large semi tractors use manual transmissions is because it was cost prohibitive to manufacture 13, 15, 18, and 21 or more speed automatic transmissions.

ZV
 
Back
Top