YACT Cost to replace front struts?

[BlancoNino]

My ride quality is getting pretty bad. My car has 80,000 miles on it and it still has the original struts. It's only bad on the front of the car so I believe only the front 2 need replaced. I was wondering if anyone had any information about how much I should expect to pay to get them replaced or if I should just do it myself.

2004 Nissan Sentra - THIS WAS NOT TYPED IN AFTER REDARMY TOLD ME TO INCLUDE MY CAR TYPE. I THINK.

Thanks.

 

[RedArmy]

It might help to tell us what kinda car you have.

 

[BlancoNino]

Originally posted by: RedArmy
It might help to tell us what kinda car you have.

I did..geeze.

 

[Fayd]

lol.

we replaced the struts on my 2000 corolla... the fronts are a real pain in the ass. so, good luck with that

 

[FeuerFrei]

I've heard it's 45 min labor per strut. According to a repair shop anyway.

 

[BlancoNino]

Bump

 

[JasonCoder]

The bigger chain shops will rip you off pretty good for most suspension work. Then again it's a real pita to do it yourself so you know...

Try to find a mechanic with his own garage that likes to make extra money and buy the parts yourself.

 

[CallMeJoe]

If somebody gives you a lowball price for strut replacement, ask if it includes front-end alignment (required).

 

[skyking]

It is a relatively easy job if you have the compression tools and some larger metric tools.
Many times I have borrowed or rented the compressor from the auto parts store who sold me the parts, and most often it was free.
You'll need to remove the lower ball joint and the sway bar, and sometimes the steering rod on that side. The brake hose can usually be left on. Loosen the top nut on the strut under the hood, but do not attempt to remove.
Then unbolt the cross bolts or whatever holds the bottom of the cartridge in that car, wire the hub assembly up with some tie wire so it does not hang on the brake hose, remove the three smaller top nuts at the top of the tower, and you have the strut/spring assembly falling out the botom into your hands.
Lay it on the ground and install the compressor. Compress the springs, remove the strut nut, and reinstall it all on the new cartridge. Reinstall and repeat for other side.

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: skyking
It is a relatively easy job if you have the compression tools and some larger metric tools.
Many times I have borrowed or rented the compressor from the auto parts store who sold me the parts, and most often it was free.
You'll need to remove the lower ball joint and the sway bar, and sometimes the steering rod on that side. The brake hose can usually be left on. Loosen the top nut on the strut under the hood, but do not attempt to remove.
Then unbolt the cross bolts or whatever holds the bottom of the cartridge in that car, wire the hub assembly up with some tie wire so it does not hang on the brake hose, remove the three smaller top nuts at the top of the tower, and you have the strut/spring assembly falling out the botom into your hands.
Lay it on the ground and install the compressor. Compress the springs, remove the strut nut, and reinstall it all on the new cartridge. Reinstall and repeat for other side.

And be very, very careful with that spring compressor, especially if you are not an experienced mechanic. An escaping spring can cause serious injury. Again, remember the front end alignment after the strut replacement.

 

[skyking]

An escaping spring can cause serious injury.

Like rip your face off

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: skyking

An escaping spring can cause serious injury.

Like rip your face off

I didn't want to sound too alarmist. But, yeah, you could put your eye out.

 

[tfinch2]

Considering you're going to have to pay for an alignment and to have the spring compressed onto the strut, price the total package and see just how much more the actual labor is going to be. It doesn't take a long time to do, but some of those big bolts and nuts are a pain in the ass to take off when they are torqued down pretty good and you only have the car on stands.

 

[skyking]

The real irony is, an alignment will most likely do absolutely nothing. Nothing at all.
all that is adjustable on most Japanese designed strut econo cars is the toe. No caster/camber cam bolts, nothing. Only the tie rod ends for toe and steering wheel position. The toe will not move with strut replacement.

 

[Crucial]

The strut nut can also be a pain in the ass if it is rusted or you don't have the proper tools to tighten them. The strut shaft will just rotate in the strut if you don't have the proper tool to hold it. Get a rusty one and you might just have to cut the strut shaft to get them apart.

Sometimes you can take the strut/spring assembly to a shop and have them swap the springs onto the new struts for $20 each. Definitely worth the money if you don't have the tools or don't want to try it yourself for fear of a spring exploding in your face. It is a very real threat that shouldn't be taken lightly.

Another thing to watch for is the bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the spindle/knuckle. Some of them are splined and shouldn't be turned. You turn the nut off one side and tap it out being careful not to bung up the threads.