YACT: Car shakes at 60mph and anything over 75mph?!?!?!?

[godmare]

Originally posted by: Marshallj

Originally posted by: godmare
Here's an example:
Link

Underinflation can cause tires to wear more on the outside than the inside. It also causes reduced fuel efficiency and increased heat buildup in the tires. It is important to check the tire pressure with a gauge at least once a month.

Uneven wear on a tire will cause vibration, due to the tire being out of round.

LOL, if you correctly read the passage and look at the picture, you'd see that the kind of uneven wear that's caused by an underinflated tire is more wear on the sides of the tire... which is NOT a rounding issue. A tire that is worn more on the sides is NOT out of round.

"Out of round" means that the radius of the tire is not consistent all the way around. Underinflation will not cause this. Unbalancing will.

That's a good point, 'out of round' was a poor choice of words. You're right.

 

[Marshallj]

Originally posted by: Iron Woode

Seriously dude, Godmare is correct about uneven tirewear causing vibrations. I have experienced it personally and so has my mechanic and my tire shop too.

Whether it is cupping or a buldge, it will cause vibration.

The problems that you mentioned are due to unrelated causes.

Cupping is NOT caused by underinflation. Cupping is wear that is caused by a resonant vibration, which is not related to tire inflation. It is due to rhythmic stress, stemming from worn shocks, or worn springs, or unbalanced tires, or bad wheel bearings. NOT underinflation.

Each problem cause has its own unique effect. To the uninformed observer, the cause can seemingly be anything, with no end to the possibilities. But to those that know, the type of damage is the signature of a specific type of problem.

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Marshallj

Originally posted by: Iron Woode

Seriously dude, Godmare is correct about uneven tirewear causing vibrations. I have experienced it personally and so has my mechanic and my tire shop too.

Whether it is cupping or a buldge, it will cause vibration.

You are wrong. Do not speak for your mechanic. You are not him.

Since I am my own mechanic and have been fixing cars for years, I will speak for myself. The problems that were mentioned are due to unrelated causes.

I am wrong? You are a moron.

I said personal experience. You know what that means? It means it happened to me. My tire buldged when some cords let go. The buldge was there. The car shook like hell.

My friend's tire developed a cup. Do you even know what that means? His car shook like hell untill the tire was replaced. There was no shake before the tire cupped.

Please stop posting already.

 

[Marshallj]

Originally posted by: Iron Woode
I am wrong? You are a moron.

I said personal experience. You know what that means? It means it happened to me. My tire buldged when some cords let go. The buldge was there. The car shook like hell..

LOL

First you say that it's caused by underinflation, but now you admit that it was caused when some cords let go. Underinflation does NOT cause cords to let go!

How about you stop posting, since your automotive knowledge is dismal and you're not contributing any knowledge to this topic.

 

[Pilsnerpete]

I'm going to contribute a GUESS. Check your U-joints. I had to replace the outer ones (front and rear) on my 86 Toy last year.

 

[Marshallj]

By the way, the fact that you speak of "your mechanic" tells me that you do not have the experience to fix your car yourself.

When I need my car fixed, I refer to "me".

Did I mention that I fix cars?

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Marshallj

Originally posted by: Iron Woode
I am wrong? You are a moron.

I said personal experience. You know what that means? It means it happened to me. My tire buldged when some cords let go. The buldge was there. The car shook like hell..

LOL

First you say that it's caused by underinflation, but now you admit that it was caused when some cords let go. Underinflation does NOT cause cords to let go!

How about you stop posting, since your automotive knowledge is dismal and you're not contributing any knowledge to this topic.

I never said underinflation caused my tire buldge. Now you can't even read.

Actually I did contribute something. First I stated that an out of balance driveshaft will cause vibrations.

But you may be on to something. Wouldn't a tire cup or buldge affect the balance of a tire?

 

[Marshallj]

Originally posted by: Iron Woode

I never said underinflation caused my tire buldge. Now you can't even read.

Actually I did contribute something. First I stated that an out of balance driveshaft will cause vibrations.

But you may be on to something. Wouldn't a tire cup or buldge affect the balance of a tire?[/quote]

Actually, when you first replied to me, it was in reply to a discussion godmare and I were having about the effect of underinflation (although you directly replied to a message that I made with a comment that had nothing to do with this discussion. It was a random musing). I said underinflation won't cause those problems, then you replied to me telling me that I was wrong.

And yes, a cup or a buldge would effect the balance of the tire, so once a tire begins to cup or buldge it just gets progressively worse. But you need to fix the cause of those problems first. A tire doesn't cup or buldge for no reason, unless it's a manufacturing defect which is pretty rare.

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Marshallj
By the way, the fact that you speak of "your mechanic" tells me that you do not have the experience to fix your car yourself.

When I need my car fixed, I refer to "me".

Did I mention that I fix cars?

I don't have the tools to be doing major repairs to my cars. Its not like a don't know how. I have been working on cars for years.

I have rebuilt engines, axles, brakes and various other things. Bigger work goes to my mechanic. Why should I buy tools I will use once? Why should I get covered in grease all the time?

Don't start assuming everyone is incompetent but you.

 

[Fritzo]

This happened in a Jeep I had. Turned out the steel belt in the driver tire was broken. Weird. Got new tires and it fixed it.

 

[Marshallj]

Originally posted by: Iron Woode
I don't have the tools to be doing major repairs to my cars. Its not like a don't know how. I have been working on cars for years.

I have rebuilt engines, axles, brakes and various other things. Bigger work goes to my mechanic. Why should I buy tools I will use once? Why should I get covered in grease all the time?

Don't start assuming everyone is incompetent but you.

Wow, so you don't have the tools to do major repairs to your cars, yet you were still able to rebuild your engine without them. Amazing.

And if you've done all these things, how would you be using these tools only once?

I'm calling BS on this one. I bet that you did none of the such.

 

[prodigy]

Might be bent wheel, hit any big potholes recently?

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Marshallj

Originally posted by: Iron Woode
I don't have the tools to be doing major repairs to my cars. Its not like a don't know how. I have been working on cars for years.

I have rebuilt engines, axles, brakes and various other things. Bigger work goes to my mechanic. Why should I buy tools I will use once? Why should I get covered in grease all the time?

Don't start assuming everyone is incompetent but you.

Wow, so you don't have the tools to do major repairs to your cars, yet you were still able to rebuild your engine without them. Amazing.

I'm calling BS on this one. I bet that you did none of the such.

I didn't take any pictures of it to prove it to you. I rebuilt my 350 Buick Small Block in my 1968 Skylark. Just what special tools do you mean?

I didn't have an engine stand so I improvised. Since I don't own or work at a machine shop I farmed out certain things.

I rented an engine hoist. I bought a good torque wrench. I have no impact guns so things took longer to take apart. I was working full time too so I had to do things over a period of months.

I rented a ring compressor. I had my reciprocating assembly balanced at the machine shop. I bought a felpro gasket set.

Ever order forged pistons (I wanted the extra strength) for a 350 Buick? I had to wait 3 weeks for them to arrive from Sealed Power. The cam was from Crane.

Priming the oil pump was annoying since its external.

I re-assembled the engine all by myself. And put it into the car by myself too.

The only problem I had was a pair of worn out rockershafts. They are a bitch to get.

The car runs great and is quite fast.

That was in 1990.

 

[Pilsnerpete]

Originally posted by: Iron Woode

Originally posted by: Marshallj

Originally posted by: Iron Woode
I don't have the tools to be doing major repairs to my cars. Its not like a don't know how. I have been working on cars for years.

I have rebuilt engines, axles, brakes and various other things. Bigger work goes to my mechanic. Why should I buy tools I will use once? Why should I get covered in grease all the time?

Don't start assuming everyone is incompetent but you.

Wow, so you don't have the tools to do major repairs to your cars, yet you were still able to rebuild your engine without them. Amazing.

I'm calling BS on this one. I bet that you did none of the such.

I didn't take any pictures of it to prove it to you. I rebuilt my 350 Buick Small Block in my 1968 Skylark. Just what special tools do you mean?

I didn't have an engine stand so I improvised. Since I don't own or work at a machine shop I farmed out certain things.

I rented an engine hoist. I bought a good torque wrench. I have no impact guns so things took longer to take apart. I was working full time too so I had to do things over a period of months.

I rented a ring compressor. I had my reciprocating assembly balanced at the machine shop. I bought a felpro gasket set.

Ever order forged pistons (I wanted the extra strength) for a 350 Buick? I had to wait 3 weeks for them to arrive from Sealed Power. The cam was from Crane.

Priming the oil pump was annoying since its external.

I re-assembled the engine all by myself. And put it into the car by myself too.

The only problem I had was a pair of worn out rockershafts. They are a bitch to get.

The car runs great and is quite fast.

That was in 1990.

pwnXored

 

[Marshallj]

Originally posted by: Iron Woode
I re-assembled the engine all by myself. And put it into the car by myself too.

The only problem I had was a pair of worn out rockershafts. They are a bitch to get.

The car runs great and is quite fast.

That was in 1990.

I bet you've never even driven a car, or even seen a picture of one.

 

[Marshallj]

nevermind

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Marshallj

Originally posted by: Iron Woode
I re-assembled the engine all by myself. And put it into the car by myself too.

The only problem I had was a pair of worn out rockershafts. They are a bitch to get.

The car runs great and is quite fast.

That was in 1990.

I bet you've never even driven a car, or even seen a picture of one.

What is your problem now?

I also modded my Lebaron's 318.

1979 Lebaron 2 door. 318/998 auto/7 1/4 axle. A good solid car.

The 318 was out of my other car (a rusted out 1977 1/2 Lebaron) with only 17,000 original miles.

I put a Cloyes double roller timing chain, a Cam Dynamics 272H10 cam (272/454 single pattern) and lifters, Edelbrock Performer Intake (choose this because the 318 heads have small ports compared to a 340/360) and a Holley 4011 650 cfm spreadbore carb.

I kept the exhaust manifolds because they are quieter and long lasting (I do have headders for it - Heddman). I put dual exhaust on it and legally got rid of the converter ( my car has a non-cat option). I had the tranny shop rebuilt my tranny with heavy duty parts and a Trans Go Stage 2 shift kit set to performance.

I lucked into a brand new distributor at the wreckers. I converted the car from Lean Burn (yuck!) to electronic ignition. I got a chrome box from a friend for $20. I got the harness from the dealer for $30. Took 15 mins to change it over.

I changed the spark curve in the distributor myself ( i bought a kit for $1 at the dealership) and put an Accel Cap and Rotor kit on it. Moroso wires and Bosch Platinum plugs.

I then spent about 1 hour tuning the hell out of it. I get 16.5 inches of vacuum at idle in park and 14.5 in gear. The engine revs smooth and gets very decent mileage too.

The only thing left is the rear axle. I am debating going 8 1/4 or 8 3/4. Both are good but the 8 1/4 is the easier fit, since it was a factory option. My current gears are 2.45:1. Considering this, the end result is quite impressive.

It is good for low 15's high 14's in the quarter.

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Marshallj
nevermind

Now how does that saying go?

Never assume. When you do: You make an ass out of you and me.

 

[Marshallj]

In case you haven't noticed, I've been playing with you for the last 45 minutes.

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Marshallj
In case you haven't noticed, I've been playing with you for the last 45 minutes.

I have noticed but I do like to show off my accomplishments once in a while.

I even modded a Hyundia Pony.

Another friend and I built a bracket car consisting of a 426 Hemi and 727 auto 8 3/4 axle with 4.10 gears in a 1970 RoadRunner chassis that we got from an auto wreckers.

By the time we were done it was running mid 10's in the quarter. I have pictures here somewhere.

 

[Iron Woode]

If you want, you can do a quick search and find my post about my UT server. If you feel like playing, go ahead.

Have some fun instead of arguing. 🙂

 

[Lithium381]

in response to the tire inflation thing, my front left tire DID have a hole a while back, but that's since been patched, though i haven't checked the pressure recently....i'll do that this weekend....i'll pose my question again: am i damaging anything by not having this looked at immediatly and prolonging it for another two months till i get some new tires? and yes, it has well over 100,000 miles.......more than double that....almost 235,000

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Lithium381
in response to the tire inflation thing, my front left tire DID have a hole a while back, but that's since been patched, though i haven't checked the pressure recently....i'll do that this weekend....i'll pose my question again: am i damaging anything by not having this looked at immediatly and prolonging it for another two months till i get some new tires? and yes, it has well over 100,000 miles.......more than double that....almost 235,000

You should really get it looked at.

Why put it off? Something bad may happen. Then you will be posting a whole new topic. 😉

 

[Marshallj]

Originally posted by: Iron Woode
If you want, you can do a quick search and find my post about my UT server. If you feel like playing, go ahead.

Have some fun instead of arguing. 🙂

I'll check it out.


btw, I think that's my problem- I get amusement out of arguing, and sometimes when I'm bored I'll either engage in flamefests that I have no part of, start a flamefest with someone, or just post useless junk (check out my poll thread).

But on a more serious note, I'm not always like this everyday in real life. But it's 2:30 am and I'm browsing the net.

 

[Lithium381]

Originally posted by: Iron Woode

Originally posted by: Lithium381
in response to the tire inflation thing, my front left tire DID have a hole a while back, but that's since been patched, though i haven't checked the pressure recently....i'll do that this weekend....i'll pose my question again: am i damaging anything by not having this looked at immediatly and prolonging it for another two months till i get some new tires? and yes, it has well over 100,000 miles.......more than double that....almost 235,000

You should really get it looked at.

Why put it off? Something bad may happen. Then you will be posting a whole new topic. 😉

i was planning on getting new tires for the summer, in about two months, as soon as school is out......