YACT: Brake pads

[duragezic]

Some days lately I've been getting constantly squealing everytime I break, and other days there is no audible sound. It also feels like theres a bit of vibrating or pulsing in the past couple of months when breaking with moderate force from highway speeds.

I checked my service records and I believe my last brake pad job on the front was in '03. I drive about 8-10k miles per year. So maybe I'm close to needing new pads? The pulsing doesn't seem good, and I really hope I don't need my rotors replaced. And it'd be nice if only my front disc needed replacing, cause I know I wouldn't be able to do the drums in the back. Maybe its a bit early for replacement considering I paid extra $$ for the "good" pads from a shop (prolly $150 for just the front parts+labor). However, most of the time was spent in my college town which is ALL hills, and major winter weather for several months so when it was bad I would have to ride the brakes for 1/2 a mile down a steep hill so that I wouldn't be going too fast and lock-up and slide right through.


So can I just jack up one side, remove the tire, and see some sort of indicator line to tell if the pads need replacing?

Its a pretty easy job to do? I don't want to spend almost $150 again if I can buy less than $50 in pads and stuff and do it myself in an hour or two.

Any pages that would guide me how to do it? I might be able to find a buddy or relative who could help me as well.

Also, I have a 1993 Mazda 626 LX, where should I get the pads? Do I just need any old OEM pads? Or would I be just as well off to buy them locally from a NAPA/Carquest/Auto place? I live in a small town so no AUtozone, but there are similar small shops for car parts.

 

[deadlyapp]

pulsing would = warped rotors most likely.

Changing pads are freakin easy. Jack up, remove tire, then you can take off the caliper, then you can see the pads, and they come right off pretty much. You'll need your rotors turned or replaced, they usually are fairly cheap to buy new. pads jsut go on and you might have to compress the pistons to get the caliper back over the rotor.

 

[Lithium381]

you might be up for new pads, depending on your driving habits. It's not an impossible job to do if you've got the right tools, find a guide online and you might be able to pull it off. I've watched a friend of mine do it and it didn't seem overly complicatd. good luck

 

[V00DOO]

If you feel vibration while braking chances are you'll probably need to replace or resurface the brake disks or drums. Which means you'll need to remove the brake disks or drums. After market brake pads are fine but generally OEM brake pads will squeak less from my experiences. Good luck.

 

[tw1164]

Disc brakes are pretty easy to replace, drums can be a pain. Remember to use a bungie cord to suspend your caliper, just don't let it hang.

 

[OS]

i had pedal shudder on my car which disappeared after i replaced pads and rotors.

The rotors were covered with heat stress cracks and there were dark spots all over the surface, which are pad material deposits, causing the shuddering.

you can get a car specific haynes service manual at pepboys for $15 for directions.

i bought hawk hps pads and brembo blank rotors from tirerack.com, shuddering completely gone now.

Now the car doesn't stop worth sh*t when dead cold, ie in the morning, but get stronger as they heat up, particularly hard/moderate force from say, 90 mph, lol.

 

[KentState]

Originally posted by: deadlyapp
pulsing would = warped rotors most likely.

Changing pads are freakin easy. Jack up, remove tire, then you can take off the caliper, then you can see the pads, and they come right off pretty much. You'll need your rotors turned or replaced, they usually are fairly cheap to buy new. pads jsut go on and you might have to compress the pistons to get the caliper back over the rotor.

Please do not spread the warped rotor myth. It is very rare to actually warp a rotor. It is probably an uneven build up on brake pad material on the rotor. Taking them off and having them machined can fix the problem or running an abbrasive pad can also do the trick, but you will need to to replace them once the surface is cleaned. If you do replace the pads after turning the rotors, make sure to do the proper break in process or you will have this all over again.

 

[deadlyapp]

My bad, I'm really only familiar with my car, and I know that my rotors are warped, and there is no buildup on them. But I guess that's to be expected with multiple 100-0 stops and such.

Originally posted by: KentState

Originally posted by: deadlyapp
pulsing would = warped rotors most likely.

Changing pads are freakin easy. Jack up, remove tire, then you can take off the caliper, then you can see the pads, and they come right off pretty much. You'll need your rotors turned or replaced, they usually are fairly cheap to buy new. pads jsut go on and you might have to compress the pistons to get the caliper back over the rotor.

Please do not spread the warped rotor myth. It is very rare to actually warp a rotor. It is probably an uneven build up on brake pad material on the rotor. Taking them off and having them machined can fix the problem or running an abbrasive pad can also do the trick, but you will need to to replace them once the surface is cleaned. If you do replace the pads after turning the rotors, make sure to do the proper break in process or you will have this all over again.

 

[49erinnc]

Nothing to it. As other have said, just pop off the tire and take a look at your pads. MOST pads have a little metal tab that indicates the wear on the pads. The more wear, the closer to touching your rotor the tab comes. Also, if you can see the mounting screws/holes through the inside of the pad, then obviously, they are in bad shape and can groove your rotors.

If your rotors have no grooves and appear to be in great shape, you can get away with not "turning" them (shaving off the worn surface) but it's still a good idea to do this. Most service stations will turn them for you for a minimal charge if you bring them in.

Also, check out all of your shims, springs, etc. Sometimes, those can become corroded and you may need to replace that stuff as well. Most new pads come with the shims. Get some organic pads if you want to stay cheap but they tend to squeal a little. Cermaic(x) pads are the way to go if you want quiet brakes with no/minimal brake dust but they can be pricey.

And also as mentioned, you'll likely have to compress the piston (use a C-Clamp) before the new pads will fit back over the rotor. Take photos of the assembly once you remove the tire so you can see how everything fits. Usually just two bolts to remove once the tire is off. Next to changing oil, it's probably one of the easiest DIY car upgrades.

 

[theeedude]

I recommend having a second set of front rotors. That way you can have one set on your car and take one set to get turned, and just alternate between them. The money you'll save on your first brakejob by doing it yourself will more than pay for the second set of rotors.

 

[jimbob200521]

This is an excellent how-to on changing your brake pads.

 

[duragezic]

Cool. That Edmunds guide seems to pretty much cover it.


So I'll probably just want to take off a pad and bring it down to a local car parts shop and buy them there? What should I expect to pay for just pads + any supporting hardware like shims or springs?

Do I have to deal with brake fluid in any way? I don't wanna loosen anything and have it leak all over or whatever...

Any other things I should know about that could cause a big problem to someone who hasn't done it befoer?

 

[hoorah]

I've spent a good amount of time rummaging around in the garage trying to find a pipe to fit on the end of the wrench I was using to open up the caliper bolts. Depending on the geometry of the suspension on the car, putting a good amount of force on the wrench might be difficult.

Its not a show-stopper, but if you were going to jump into it for the first time, have a breaker bar handy.

 

[pray4mojo]

If its your first time, it could be a bitch to do. Expect 3-4 hours.

 

[Linflas]

Don't get the cheap pads unless you like having black crap all over your wheels.

 

[KentState]

Originally posted by: Linflas
Don't get the cheap pads unless you like having black crap all over your wheels.

Pads of any price or quality can have a lot of dust. Some of the higher end motorcross and track pads will be very dusty and they are not cheap. Ceramic are typically quiet and produce less dust.

 

[iamwiz82]

Originally posted by: hoorah
I've spent a good amount of time rummaging around in the garage trying to find a pipe to fit on the end of the wrench I was using to open up the caliper bolts. Depending on the geometry of the suspension on the car, putting a good amount of force on the wrench might be difficult.

Its not a show-stopper, but if you were going to jump into it for the first time, have a breaker bar handy.

This could come into play since you are in Michigan and the bolts have been subject to a few winters worth of salt. I suggest shooting them with PB Blaster or penetrating oil every day for a few days before you intend to start.

Also, your tire may be frozen to the spindle, in which case you will have to break it off. It's fairly common with the salt. If the tire doesn't come off, I suggest putting the lugnuts on and tightening them, but not too much, enough to leave some room between the rim and them. Then lower the car until the wheel touches the ground. That should seperate the rust on the rim/spindle. I don't suggest hitting/kicking the tire while the car is in the air. I've seen them fall off their jacks when people have done that.

EDIT: I have also stripped a caliper bolt before because the rust weakened the head of the bolt. I ended up hammering a slightly smaller socket on there and getting it off that way.

 

[Linflas]

Originally posted by: KentState

Originally posted by: Linflas
Don't get the cheap pads unless you like having black crap all over your wheels.

Pads of any price or quality can have a lot of dust. Some of the higher end motorcross and track pads will be very dusty and they are not cheap. Ceramic are typically quiet and produce less dust.

All I know is the OEM ones that came on my truck put small mounts of dust out but the cheapo ones I bought when I replaced them cover both front rims completely with black dust. I wouldn't know about specialty pads, all I do is drive the thing to work and back and haul crap around on weekends so I don't need those motocross/track things.

 

[BoomerD]

I checked the on-line parts guy I do lots of BMW parts with, and they don't list a 93 626 LX..MX yes, not LX. Only a protege LX. HOWEVER, for the MX with the v-6 (2.5) motor, rotors run between $30 and $45 , and pads run $35 to $62 for ceramics. and the same for the MX6 with the 2.0

 

[jagec]

Originally posted by: Lithium381
you might be up for new pads, depending on your driving habits. It's not an impossible job to do if you've got the right tools, find a guide online and you might be able to pull it off. I've watched a friend of mine do it and it didn't seem overly complicatd. good luck

Correction: it's an easy job to do if you have the right tools, not too hard if you *almost* have the right tools, and not impossible if you have the wrong tools.

Originally posted by: KentState
Please do not spread the warped rotor myth. It is very rare to actually warp a rotor. It is probably an uneven build up on brake pad material on the rotor. Taking them off and having them machined can fix the problem or running an abbrasive pad can also do the trick, but you will need to to replace them once the surface is cleaned. If you do replace the pads after turning the rotors, make sure to do the proper break in process or you will have this all over again.

It does happen on some cars, but uneven torquing of the lug bolts is probably a bigger contributor than hard braking.

Yeah, breaking in your brakes correctly is important. For the record, this is what I do:

Put on the new pads and rotors. Go to a BIG parking lot without any traffic.
Run up to 30 MPH or so, brake to 5MPH at a moderate rate. Don't come to a complete stop. Do this three times or so, to warm up your pads. Now make a few 40 (or higher if you dare)-5MPH HARD braking runs, once again not coming to a complete stop. Do this six or seven times. Now drive around for a while to let them cool off.

Originally posted by: duragezic
Cool. That Edmunds guide seems to pretty much cover it.


So I'll probably just want to take off a pad and bring it down to a local car parts shop and buy them there? What should I expect to pay for just pads + any supporting hardware like shims or springs?

Do I have to deal with brake fluid in any way? I don't wanna loosen anything and have it leak all over or whatever...

Any other things I should know about that could cause a big problem to someone who hasn't done it befoer?

You SHOULD bleed your brakes when you change the pads, but you don't absolutely have to.

The big thing that threw me off when I first changed mine was not having a C-clamp. Get one, or at least a hugely oversized pair of tongue and groove pliers. You can use your old pad to give the C-clamp something to push against if you have one of those pistons that looks like a cup.

 

[KentState]

Originally posted by: Linflas

Originally posted by: KentState

Originally posted by: Linflas
Don't get the cheap pads unless you like having black crap all over your wheels.

Pads of any price or quality can have a lot of dust. Some of the higher end motorcross and track pads will be very dusty and they are not cheap. Ceramic are typically quiet and produce less dust.

All I know is the OEM ones that came on my truck put small mounts of dust out but the cheapo ones I bought when I replaced them cover both front rims completely with black dust. I wouldn't know about specialty pads, all I do is drive the thing to work and back and haul crap around on weekends so I don't need those motocross/track things.

That might be the difference between ceramic and regular carbon that you are seeing. Ceramic are very good because of the low dust and little noise.

 

[KentState]

Originally posted by: jagec

Originally posted by: Lithium381
you might be up for new pads, depending on your driving habits. It's not an impossible job to do if you've got the right tools, find a guide online and you might be able to pull it off. I've watched a friend of mine do it and it didn't seem overly complicatd. good luck

Correction: it's an easy job to do if you have the right tools, not too hard if you *almost* have the right tools, and not impossible if you have the wrong tools.

Originally posted by: KentState
Please do not spread the warped rotor myth. It is very rare to actually warp a rotor. It is probably an uneven build up on brake pad material on the rotor. Taking them off and having them machined can fix the problem or running an abbrasive pad can also do the trick, but you will need to to replace them once the surface is cleaned. If you do replace the pads after turning the rotors, make sure to do the proper break in process or you will have this all over again.

It does happen on some cars, but uneven torquing of the lug bolts is probably a bigger contributor than hard braking.

Yeah, breaking in your brakes correctly is important. For the record, this is what I do:

Put on the new pads and rotors. Go to a BIG parking lot without any traffic.
Run up to 30 MPH or so, brake to 5MPH at a moderate rate. Don't come to a complete stop. Do this three times or so, to warm up your pads. Now make a few 40 (or higher if you dare)-5MPH HARD braking runs, once again not coming to a complete stop. Do this six or seven times. Now drive around for a while to let them cool off.

Originally posted by: duragezic
Cool. That Edmunds guide seems to pretty much cover it.


So I'll probably just want to take off a pad and bring it down to a local car parts shop and buy them there? What should I expect to pay for just pads + any supporting hardware like shims or springs?

Do I have to deal with brake fluid in any way? I don't wanna loosen anything and have it leak all over or whatever...

Any other things I should know about that could cause a big problem to someone who hasn't done it befoer?

You SHOULD bleed your brakes when you change the pads, but you don't absolutely have to.

The big thing that threw me off when I first changed mine was not having a C-clamp. Get one, or at least a hugely oversized pair of tongue and groove pliers. You can use your old pad to give the C-clamp something to push against if you have one of those pistons that looks like a cup.

I agree, warping does happen but it seems to be the common diagnostic so that the buyer pays for new rotors instead of having them surfaced. Your break in what I would also recommend unless the vendor has some specific requirements. The only problem I have with those are getting to a place that is safe enough to preform the break them in before driving too many miles. Luckily I live in a less dense area of Ohio where I can find a parking lot or backroad, but I can't imagine trying this in NYC or some other large city.