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YACT: Boost controller question

GasX

Lifer
Dual Stage Boost Controller

Supposing you set one stage to 3-4 psi to maximize gas milage and the other to 14psi (or whatever higher number is appropriate for your car) to maximize power. Would this set-up be a useful mod for a daily driver that does double duty as a curvy road fun machine on the weekends? Can the computer effectively deal with both settings?
 
You're only running in boost at WOT anyway. If you want to get good mileage, just be a bit lighter on the gas pedal.
 
Originally posted by: notfred
You're only running in boost at WOT anyway. If you want to get good mileage, just be a bit lighter on the gas pedal.
No boost at all until full throttle?

😕
 
Get an apexi electronic boost controller.. you can save boost settings to it and change them with the push of a button. HKS makes a really nice one as well 🙂

imo turbo xs is the emachines of the import parts scene
 
Originally posted by: Mwilding
Originally posted by: notfred
You're only running in boost at WOT anyway. If you want to get good mileage, just be a bit lighter on the gas pedal.
No boost at all until full throttle?

😕

Thje function of the throttle plate is to limit the amount of air coming into the motor. When it's closed, it doesn't matter how much boost you make, it's not going to reach the engine. Even as it opens up, you don't see any boost until it's pretty much completely open. A forced induction car still drives around drawing a vacuum 95% of the time.
 
Originally posted by: notfred
Originally posted by: Mwilding
Originally posted by: notfred
You're only running in boost at WOT anyway. If you want to get good mileage, just be a bit lighter on the gas pedal.
No boost at all until full throttle?

😕

Thje function of the throttle plate is to limit the amount of air coming into the motor. When it's closed, it doesn't matter how much boost you make, it's not going to reach the engine. Even as it opens up, you don't see any boost until it's pretty much completely open. A forced induction car still drives around drawing a vacuum 95% of the time.
I am not knowledgeable in this area so forgive my obvious questions...

I have seen boost guages and they always seem to be in "VAC" - matching what you said. What does this mean exactly and what effect does it have on performance? If you add a turbo to a NA car you up the HP significantly, but is that solely at WOT?
 
Originally posted by: Mwilding
Originally posted by: notfred
Originally posted by: Mwilding
Originally posted by: notfred
You're only running in boost at WOT anyway. If you want to get good mileage, just be a bit lighter on the gas pedal.
No boost at all until full throttle?

😕

Thje function of the throttle plate is to limit the amount of air coming into the motor. When it's closed, it doesn't matter how much boost you make, it's not going to reach the engine. Even as it opens up, you don't see any boost until it's pretty much completely open. A forced induction car still drives around drawing a vacuum 95% of the time.
I am not knowledgeable in this area so forgive my obvious questions...

I have seen boost guages and they always seem to be in "VAC" - matching what you said. What does this mean exactly and what effect does it have on performance? If you add a turbo to a NA car you up the HP significantly, but is that solely at WOT?

A normally aspirated car drives around drawing a vacuum most of the time. That is to say that as the intake valve opens and the cylinder moves down, the motor attempts to suck in enough aior to fill the cylinder. However, the throttle plate is closed (at least partially), and the motor can't really get that much air. So, in the intake between the throttle plate and the intake valves, a vacuum develops where there is very low pressure air. This shows up on a boost guage as "vacuum".

Now, the further you open the throttle plate, the more air you let in. This means more air in the cylinders, so the motor makes more power, and accelerates, requiring even more air to fill the faster moving cylinders. However, the further open the throttle plate is, the closer the pressure inside the intake tract gets to the ambient pressure. What the turbocharger does is increase this ambient pressure from 14psi 1 atmosphere of pressure) up to 17psi at 4psi of boost, or 28psi at 14psi of boost. So, when you open the throttle all the way on a N/A car, you'd see a boost guage go to '0'. On a turbocharged car, you'd see the guage go to '4' or '14' or whatever the boost is set to.

But most of the time the throttle isn't all the way open. When you're cruising on the freeway at 2500rpm and 70mph, you need a certain amount of air going through the motor to maintain that speed. That amount of air is far less than the amount of air you see at even 1psi of boost. So, the throttle plate at that constant sped on the freeway is mostly closed, and the car is still running in vacuum. It's not until the throttle plate is nearly entirely open that you'll start to approach that unrestricted state where you'll start registering boost in the intake tract and therefore on the boost guage.

I hope that makes sense.
 
OK got it - thx

So, a turbo engine still draws a vacuum, but LESS of a vacuum? I assume the turbo decreases the amount of vacuum over NA whereby you obtain SOME benefit when driving not at WOT. Is that true?
 
Originally posted by: Mwilding
OK got it - thx

So, a turbo engine still draws a vacuum, but LESS of a vacuum? I assume the turbo decreases the amount of vacuum over NA whereby you obtain SOME benefit when driving not at WOT. Is that true?

It will draw less of a vacuum with the same amount of throttle. However, to do something like cruise on the freeway, you only need so much airflow, so you'll use less throttle on a turbo car than on a N/A car. If you were crusing before with the throttle 1/4 opened on the freeway, and then you add a turbo making 14psi of boost, you'll now cruise on the freeway with the throttle 1/8 opened, and it'll still show the same amount of vacuum as it did with 1/4 throttle before the turbo.
 
Originally posted by: notfred
Originally posted by: Mwilding
Originally posted by: notfred
You're only running in boost at WOT anyway. If you want to get good mileage, just be a bit lighter on the gas pedal.
No boost at all until full throttle?

😕

Thje function of the throttle plate is to limit the amount of air coming into the motor. When it's closed, it doesn't matter how much boost you make, it's not going to reach the engine. Even as it opens up, you don't see any boost until it's pretty much completely open. A forced induction car still drives around drawing a vacuum 95% of the time.

This really depends on how the engine is setup, I have no problem making 10psi at 50% throttle, I can make my max boost of 16psi at less then wot too.
Regarding dual stage controllers, If all you want is gas mileage on the street, just lay off the throttle.
 
Most modern turbo engines can make boost at less than WOT (even less than 50% throttle). Just depends on the circumstances.
Generally though, daily driving is still in vacuum. Idle at about 7-10psi vacuum, and freeway cruising at about 4-7 psi vacuum.
Like others said, keep a light foot on the gas and you'll still get good gas mileage. But that's not what turbos are for, are they? 😉
 
My car doesnt usually go over 1 bar (absoloute) until you have a heavy foot on it

cruising at 30 its about -0,4 bar

@ 60 its.. -0,1bar iirc.. so still vacuum, unless you're accelerating
 
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