• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

YACT: apparently I cant change a tire

Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Originally posted by: Roger
DO NOT hit the rim with a hammer or sledge, you will bend or dent the rim, if it that difficult, you can screw on all the lug nuts about two turns in and lower the vehicle, then rock the car from side to side.

BE CAREFUL
Click to expand...

good idea!

I am trying to get all this done so I can drive up to the tire shop which is within spitting distance of my apartment. If this doesnt work I am going to have to call in a favor from my buddy who works at a tire shop.
 
Originally posted by: Roger
DO NOT hit the rim with a hammer or sledge, you will bend or dent the rim, if it that difficult, you can screw on all the lug nuts about two turns in and lower the vehicle, then rock the car from side to side.

BE CAREFUL
Click to expand...

Great idea. :thumbsup:
 
Put the lug nuts on loosely, lower the vehicle, put it in neutral and push it a few feet back and forth, this way it will evenly distribute the force from the weight of the vehicle around the whole rim. Be careful though.
 
Originally posted by: element
Put the lug nuts on loosely, lower the vehicle, put it in neutral and push it a few feet back and forth, this way it will evenly distribute the force from the weight of the vehicle around the whole rim. Be careful though.
Click to expand...

will this work?

Also, could this have anything to do with the fact that I drove it a little bit before I realized it was flat? By a little bit, I mean maybe 50 feet.
 
Originally posted by: GoodDad
Originally posted by: element
Put the lug nuts on loosely, lower the vehicle, put it in neutral and push it a few feet back and forth, this way it will evenly distribute the force from the weight of the vehicle around the whole rim. Be careful though.
Click to expand...

will this work?

Also, could this have anything to do with the fact that I drove it a little bit before I realized it was flat? By a little bit, I mean maybe 50 feet.
Click to expand...

It was just a thought inspiried by Roger's suggestion, I defer to him as he is the closest to a mechanical expert here.

I doubt it has to do with driving 50 ft on a flat, more likely it's just rusted in place.

Also I like to use heat from a propane torch to get rusted parts unstuck but that might not be appropriate in this case.
 
Take all the nuts off.
Start the car.
Drive on the freeway.

I guarantee it will come off! 😉

Roger's right. PB Blaster will clear it.
 
Just give the tire a good boot on either side, alternating.

Then smack yourself for having steel rims. 😛
 
Then smack yourself for having steel rims.
Click to expand...

Aluminum rims can be worse than steel when it comes to corrosion, two highly dissimilar metals bolted to each under with tremendous pressure, right !
 
I worked on an 04 Mazda Protege 5 which had the rear wheels completely corroded on. Kicking didn't help.

1) Jack up the car SECURELY with two heavy duty jackstands
2) Get a piece of 4x4 wood and place BEHIND the rim
(you may want to place some wood between that and the ground just to keep the right height since holding a 4x4 can get mighty tiring)
3) Use a damn sledgehammer to hit the 4x4

Anything except a sledgehammer will do zero work
 
if you dont have any pb blaster or wd 40, try extra virgin olive oil. Dont use regular wesson or normal vegetable oil because then your car will smell like fried chicken. Use Extra virgin olive oil only since its virgin, the pores in the oil are smaller and will saturate the larger rust particulate with oil which wicks the oil into the vestibular cavity. Capillary action will further augment the wicking process until your rims basically lift right off the drum.

If this still fails to work, at least you have a tasty wheel with low fat content.
 
Originally posted by: Roger
Then smack yourself for having steel rims.
Click to expand...

Aluminum rims can be worse than steel when it comes to corrosion, two highly dissimilar metals bolted to each under with tremendous pressure, right !
Click to expand...

I've never had a problem with my aluminum rims sticking to the point where I can't get it off with a good kick or two.

Of course, I do rotate my tires at least once a year.
 
Originally posted by: Rufio
what does pb stand for?
peanut butter?
punk buster!?

ahahha
i don't konw!
Click to expand...

That stuff rocks. Spray some on a styrofoam cup sometime.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top