YACT: Anyone here bought Mobil 1 before?

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: TheGoodGuy
at that age moving to synthetic will kill your engine..

Just plain wrong.

ZV

 

[BoomerD]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: BoomerD
Not sure I'd make the switch to Mobil 1 with that many miles on the engine. It has a tendency to remove lots of the gunk and sludge that has formed in the engine, and magically, they start leaking with the new oil. Not really the fault of the Mobil 1, but it is a better detergent, and seems to find it's way thro the slightest possibley leak.
Not sure about changing oil brands at all with that many miles. Theoretically, there should be no problem, but Old school says NEVER change brands of oil, UNLESS they're 100% compatible. (which MOST are today) I'm not a fan of Shell products. Never have been,. prolly never will be, BUT, if the engine has run it's entire life on Rotella, maybe you should stick with that.
Otherwise, if you're really set on changing, maybe you could use Castrol semi-synthetic (Syntec Blend)...I've used that in both my 96 Dakota with 215K miles on it (since it was new) and my 87 BMW 735i that has over 120K, (since it had about 30K) Niether engine burns a drop of oil between changes.

Edit...I forgot this was a DIESEL engine...Not sure the Castrol would work for you. I'll still stick by the recommendation of using the same oil it's been running on, unless there's some problem that is oil related...

The "old school" is wrong. As long as you drain the old oil first you can replace the oil with anything that matches the viscosity and API specifications for the engine.

Well, years ago, the point was that since you NEVER totally drain all the oil from yoour engint, (Hvy equipment has 5 gallons just in the oil passages and bearings), so mixing oils of different formulations was a bad idea. API speccs and viscosity don't deal with the actual oil formulation. HOWEVER, in more recent years, it's become less of an issue, since many refineries make oil for SEVERAL different brands, so it ends up being almost the same exact oil, just with a different label.

Shell Rotella (as well as Shell's gasolines) is consistantly rated very highly, I don't know what you have against it.

I don't EVER use any Shell product if I can help it. YES, I realize that you don't always know where your gasoline actually comes from, so I just don't buy at a Shell branded station. I don't do any business with Exxon either, but that's another issue


Any well-cared-for engine should run 200,000+ miles without burning excessive amounts of oil (there is no such thing as an engine that doesn't burn any oil, but most will not burn any noticeable amount between changes, not even between 5,000 to 10,000 mile extended changes) with any name-brand oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications, so your anecdotal recommendations of Castrol just indicate that in your experience it's average.

Correct. Proper maintenance makes all the difference in the world...

As far as semi-synthetics, I would never recommend them. An oil only needs to have a single drop of synthetic in it to be legally labled "Synthetic Blend" or "Semi Synthetic", and there has not been any indication that a semi-synthetic offers higher performance than regular oil. You end up spending extra money for an oil that has no functionally significant amount of synthetic in the mixture. Better off to just go full synthetic.

While that MAY be true, I'll still take my chances with the semi-synthetic blends over straight dino-oil.

ZV

The reason oil in a diesel engine turns SO black SO fast, is soot from the combustion process...and a very good detergent in the additive package.

 

[TitanDiddly]

Originally posted by: BoomerD

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: BoomerD
Not sure I'd make the switch to Mobil 1 with that many miles on the engine. It has a tendency to remove lots of the gunk and sludge that has formed in the engine, and magically, they start leaking with the new oil. Not really the fault of the Mobil 1, but it is a better detergent, and seems to find it's way thro the slightest possibley leak.
Not sure about changing oil brands at all with that many miles. Theoretically, there should be no problem, but Old school says NEVER change brands of oil, UNLESS they're 100% compatible. (which MOST are today) I'm not a fan of Shell products. Never have been,. prolly never will be, BUT, if the engine has run it's entire life on Rotella, maybe you should stick with that.
Otherwise, if you're really set on changing, maybe you could use Castrol semi-synthetic (Syntec Blend)...I've used that in both my 96 Dakota with 215K miles on it (since it was new) and my 87 BMW 735i that has over 120K, (since it had about 30K) Niether engine burns a drop of oil between changes.

Edit...I forgot this was a DIESEL engine...Not sure the Castrol would work for you. I'll still stick by the recommendation of using the same oil it's been running on, unless there's some problem that is oil related...

The "old school" is wrong. As long as you drain the old oil first you can replace the oil with anything that matches the viscosity and API specifications for the engine.

Well, years ago, the point was that since you NEVER totally drain all the oil from yoour engint, (Hvy equipment has 5 gallons just in the oil passages and bearings), so mixing oils of different formulations was a bad idea. API speccs and viscosity don't deal with the actual oil formulation. HOWEVER, in more recent years, it's become less of an issue, since many refineries make oil for SEVERAL different brands, so it ends up being almost the same exact oil, just with a different label.

Shell Rotella (as well as Shell's gasolines) is consistantly rated very highly, I don't know what you have against it.

I don't EVER use any Shell product if I can help it. YES, I realize that you don't always know where your gasoline actually comes from, so I just don't buy at a Shell branded station. I don't do any business with Exxon either, but that's another issue


Any well-cared-for engine should run 200,000+ miles without burning excessive amounts of oil (there is no such thing as an engine that doesn't burn any oil, but most will not burn any noticeable amount between changes, not even between 5,000 to 10,000 mile extended changes) with any name-brand oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications, so your anecdotal recommendations of Castrol just indicate that in your experience it's average.

Correct. Proper maintenance makes all the difference in the world...

As far as semi-synthetics, I would never recommend them. An oil only needs to have a single drop of synthetic in it to be legally labled "Synthetic Blend" or "Semi Synthetic", and there has not been any indication that a semi-synthetic offers higher performance than regular oil. You end up spending extra money for an oil that has no functionally significant amount of synthetic in the mixture. Better off to just go full synthetic.

While that MAY be true, I'll still take my chances with the semi-synthetic blends over straight dino-oil.

ZV

The reason oil in a diesel engine turns SO black SO fast, is soot from the combustion process...and a very good detergent in the additive package.

Why does it happen in diesel and not in gas? More blowby?

 

[BoomerD]

Originally posted by: TitanDiddly

Originally posted by: BoomerD

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: BoomerD
Not sure I'd make the switch to Mobil 1 with that many miles on the engine. It has a tendency to remove lots of the gunk and sludge that has formed in the engine, and magically, they start leaking with the new oil. Not really the fault of the Mobil 1, but it is a better detergent, and seems to find it's way thro the slightest possibley leak.
Not sure about changing oil brands at all with that many miles. Theoretically, there should be no problem, but Old school says NEVER change brands of oil, UNLESS they're 100% compatible. (which MOST are today) I'm not a fan of Shell products. Never have been,. prolly never will be, BUT, if the engine has run it's entire life on Rotella, maybe you should stick with that.
Otherwise, if you're really set on changing, maybe you could use Castrol semi-synthetic (Syntec Blend)...I've used that in both my 96 Dakota with 215K miles on it (since it was new) and my 87 BMW 735i that has over 120K, (since it had about 30K) Niether engine burns a drop of oil between changes.

Edit...I forgot this was a DIESEL engine...Not sure the Castrol would work for you. I'll still stick by the recommendation of using the same oil it's been running on, unless there's some problem that is oil related...

The "old school" is wrong. As long as you drain the old oil first you can replace the oil with anything that matches the viscosity and API specifications for the engine.

Well, years ago, the point was that since you NEVER totally drain all the oil from yoour engint, (Hvy equipment has 5 gallons just in the oil passages and bearings), so mixing oils of different formulations was a bad idea. API speccs and viscosity don't deal with the actual oil formulation. HOWEVER, in more recent years, it's become less of an issue, since many refineries make oil for SEVERAL different brands, so it ends up being almost the same exact oil, just with a different label.

Shell Rotella (as well as Shell's gasolines) is consistantly rated very highly, I don't know what you have against it.

I don't EVER use any Shell product if I can help it. YES, I realize that you don't always know where your gasoline actually comes from, so I just don't buy at a Shell branded station. I don't do any business with Exxon either, but that's another issue


Any well-cared-for engine should run 200,000+ miles without burning excessive amounts of oil (there is no such thing as an engine that doesn't burn any oil, but most will not burn any noticeable amount between changes, not even between 5,000 to 10,000 mile extended changes) with any name-brand oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications, so your anecdotal recommendations of Castrol just indicate that in your experience it's average.

Correct. Proper maintenance makes all the difference in the world...

As far as semi-synthetics, I would never recommend them. An oil only needs to have a single drop of synthetic in it to be legally labled "Synthetic Blend" or "Semi Synthetic", and there has not been any indication that a semi-synthetic offers higher performance than regular oil. You end up spending extra money for an oil that has no functionally significant amount of synthetic in the mixture. Better off to just go full synthetic.

While that MAY be true, I'll still take my chances with the semi-synthetic blends over straight dino-oil.

ZV

The reason oil in a diesel engine turns SO black SO fast, is soot from the combustion process...and a very good detergent in the additive package.

Why does it happen in diesel and not in gas? More blowby?

"In a diesel engine, this black stain is soot. Soot is the result of incomplete combustion (the same as any wood fire stove) This soot (which is actually carbon) gathers in the combustion chambers, lining the top of the pistons, the injectors, the glow plugs and the valves. Some stays there and builds up into thick carbon deposits that must be scraped away when the engine is stripped. Some is blown into the exhaust manifold, coating the inside of the exhaust pipe or blown out the back as black smoke. The rest is washed off the cylinder walls by the engine oil, thus contaminating it and turning it black. This is why engine oil filtration is critical in diesels."
http://www.dieselgasaustralia.com.au/default.aspx?ID=Technical

 

[Mill]

Rotella is fine oil no reason to switch.

 

[TitanDiddly]

Originally posted by: BoomerD

Originally posted by: TitanDiddly

Originally posted by: BoomerD

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: BoomerD
Not sure I'd make the switch to Mobil 1 with that many miles on the engine. It has a tendency to remove lots of the gunk and sludge that has formed in the engine, and magically, they start leaking with the new oil. Not really the fault of the Mobil 1, but it is a better detergent, and seems to find it's way thro the slightest possibley leak.
Not sure about changing oil brands at all with that many miles. Theoretically, there should be no problem, but Old school says NEVER change brands of oil, UNLESS they're 100% compatible. (which MOST are today) I'm not a fan of Shell products. Never have been,. prolly never will be, BUT, if the engine has run it's entire life on Rotella, maybe you should stick with that.
Otherwise, if you're really set on changing, maybe you could use Castrol semi-synthetic (Syntec Blend)...I've used that in both my 96 Dakota with 215K miles on it (since it was new) and my 87 BMW 735i that has over 120K, (since it had about 30K) Niether engine burns a drop of oil between changes.

Edit...I forgot this was a DIESEL engine...Not sure the Castrol would work for you. I'll still stick by the recommendation of using the same oil it's been running on, unless there's some problem that is oil related...

The "old school" is wrong. As long as you drain the old oil first you can replace the oil with anything that matches the viscosity and API specifications for the engine.

Well, years ago, the point was that since you NEVER totally drain all the oil from yoour engint, (Hvy equipment has 5 gallons just in the oil passages and bearings), so mixing oils of different formulations was a bad idea. API speccs and viscosity don't deal with the actual oil formulation. HOWEVER, in more recent years, it's become less of an issue, since many refineries make oil for SEVERAL different brands, so it ends up being almost the same exact oil, just with a different label.

Shell Rotella (as well as Shell's gasolines) is consistantly rated very highly, I don't know what you have against it.

I don't EVER use any Shell product if I can help it. YES, I realize that you don't always know where your gasoline actually comes from, so I just don't buy at a Shell branded station. I don't do any business with Exxon either, but that's another issue


Any well-cared-for engine should run 200,000+ miles without burning excessive amounts of oil (there is no such thing as an engine that doesn't burn any oil, but most will not burn any noticeable amount between changes, not even between 5,000 to 10,000 mile extended changes) with any name-brand oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications, so your anecdotal recommendations of Castrol just indicate that in your experience it's average.

Correct. Proper maintenance makes all the difference in the world...

As far as semi-synthetics, I would never recommend them. An oil only needs to have a single drop of synthetic in it to be legally labled "Synthetic Blend" or "Semi Synthetic", and there has not been any indication that a semi-synthetic offers higher performance than regular oil. You end up spending extra money for an oil that has no functionally significant amount of synthetic in the mixture. Better off to just go full synthetic.

While that MAY be true, I'll still take my chances with the semi-synthetic blends over straight dino-oil.

ZV

The reason oil in a diesel engine turns SO black SO fast, is soot from the combustion process...and a very good detergent in the additive package.

Why does it happen in diesel and not in gas? More blowby?

"In a diesel engine, this black stain is soot. Soot is the result of incomplete combustion (the same as any wood fire stove) This soot (which is actually carbon) gathers in the combustion chambers, lining the top of the pistons, the injectors, the glow plugs and the valves. Some stays there and builds up into thick carbon deposits that must be scraped away when the engine is stripped. Some is blown into the exhaust manifold, coating the inside of the exhaust pipe or blown out the back as black smoke. The rest is washed off the cylinder walls by the engine oil, thus contaminating it and turning it black. This is why engine oil filtration is critical in diesels."
http://www.dieselgasaustralia.com.au/default.aspx?ID=Technical

Ah. Thank you.

 

[TitanDiddly]

Phew, I was able to get in contact with the previous owner and he told me is was non-synthetic Rotella T. Woot.

 

[Vette73]

Just get some Mobil Delvac 15w40. Meets the newwest standards and works very well.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: BoomerD
I don't EVER use any Shell product if I can help it. YES, I realize that you don't always know where your gasoline actually comes from, so I just don't buy at a Shell branded station. I don't do any business with Exxon either, but that's another issue

....

While that MAY be true, I'll still take my chances with the semi-synthetic blends over straight dino-oil.

That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.

As for the comments on semi-synthetics, what I said about the formulation requirements is absolutely true. There are NO laws governing the minimum amount of synthetic componants that an oil needs to have in order to be labled "Synthetic Blend". In fact, Castrol's synthetic blend has not been shown to be significantly better than regular old Castrol GTX. The simple fact is that any quality regular oil will provide more than enough protection unless you have oil temperatures consistantly above 300 degrees (air-cooled engines, turbocharged engines), in which case you should be running full synthetic anyway. A good filter and a name-brand regular oil that is changed no less often than every 7,500 miles (assuming non-severe operating conditions and a good air filter) should allow just about any engine to hit 300,000 miles without any problems that are a result of the oilng system.

ZV

 

[Pepsi90919]

Originally posted by: 0
Using a synthetic on an old engine that didn't have it is a bad idea. Generally, the gaskets have been seasoned with the old regular oil. The synthetic will work its way through the gaskets and you'll have a lot of leaks. Stay with the regular oil.

guys, can we leave the old wives' tales at the door?

 

[Apex]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.
ZV

Zenmervolt:

Do you happen to have any comparison test results of gasolines? I've always been curious about that, but haven't found anything worthwhile.

Thank you!

 

[boyRacer]

Originally posted by: Apex

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.
ZV

Zenmervolt:

Do you happen to have any comparison test results of gasolines? I've always been curious about that, but haven't found anything worthwhile.

Thank you!

I'd like to see that too.


FWIW, Ferrari did win today's F1 race on *cough* Shell fuel and lubricants *cough*... who says advertising doesn't work?... 😛

 

[FelixDeCat]

Less than 24 hours ago, I put six quarts of Mobil1 in my C230K. It was the 15,000 mile formula. $45.40

 

[PAB]

Originally posted by: FelixDeKat
Less than 24 hours ago, I put six quarts of Mobil1 in my C230K. It was the 15,000 mile formula. $45.40

Till:There - I don't get it

 

[TitanDiddly]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: BoomerD
I don't EVER use any Shell product if I can help it. YES, I realize that you don't always know where your gasoline actually comes from, so I just don't buy at a Shell branded station. I don't do any business with Exxon either, but that's another issue

....

While that MAY be true, I'll still take my chances with the semi-synthetic blends over straight dino-oil.

That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.

As for the comments on semi-synthetics, what I said about the formulation requirements is absolutely true. There are NO laws governing the minimum amount of synthetic componants that an oil needs to have in order to be labled "Synthetic Blend". In fact, Castrol's synthetic blend has not been shown to be significantly better than regular old Castrol GTX. The simple fact is that any quality regular oil will provide more than enough protection unless you have oil temperatures consistantly above 300 degrees (air-cooled engines, turbocharged engines), in which case you should be running full synthetic anyway. A good filter and a name-brand regular oil that is changed no less often than every 7,500 miles (assuming non-severe operating conditions and a good air filter) should allow just about any engine to hit 300,000 miles without any problems that are a result of the oilng system.

ZV

My car is turbocharged, but I don't know what it normally operates at- everything is metric since it's an import. Haven't driven it enough, either.

 

[Eli]

Don't do it!

Rotella T 15W-40 is better than Mobil1 10W-30.

Mobil Delvac 15W-40 is even better than Rotella T.

 

[dirtboy]

I used Mobil 1 at ever oil change, but the again it is required by the manufacturer. 🙂

 

[Eli]

Mobil1 10W-30(Synthetic):

Viscosity Index: 147
Pour Point: -49ºF
Flash Point: 471ºF
High Temperature/High Shear: 3.17
NOACK: 13%
TBN: 8.0

Mobile Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40(Petroleum):

Viscosity Index: 140
Pour Point: -27ºF
Flash Point: 446ºF
High Temp/High Shear: 4.30
NOACK: 13.00
TBN: 12.0

Rotella T 15W-40(Petroleum):

Viscosity Index: 141
Pour Point: -15ºF
Flash Point: 415ºF
High Temp/High Shear: 3.70
NOACK: 13.00%
TBN: 11.5

Infact, Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 is the highest quality petroleum oil with the best bang for the buck I have been able to find; I have been using it in all of my vehicles for the last couple of years. It is only 6$ and some change for a gallon at Wal-Mart. It is better than a great many synthetic oils.

Oil analysis on my Dad's Camry comes back excellent.. After 5,000 miles and almost a year. The last time I did an analysis, it revealed a head gasket leak. Even with the coolant contanimation, wear numbers were very good due to the Devlac's extremely robust nature. He doesen't drive very much, so I haven't had a chance to do another analysis.. But I fully expect the oil to be good for a full year and about 7,000 miles this time around.

Now, if you live in the great white north, you may want to rethink the use of a 15W oil or get a block heater.

 

[Zee]

Originally posted by: Apex

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.
ZV

Zenmervolt:

Do you happen to have any comparison test results of gasolines? I've always been curious about that, but haven't found anything worthwhile.

Thank you!

i read at a new article as well as a Shell press release how Shell exceeds the minimum standards required in gasoline in terms of detergent additives. Something about their gasoline be in the top tier

 

[Apex]

Originally posted by: Zee

Originally posted by: Apex

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.
ZV

Zenmervolt:

Do you happen to have any comparison test results of gasolines? I've always been curious about that, but haven't found anything worthwhile.

Thank you!

i read at a new article as well as a Shell press release how Shell exceeds the minimum standards required in gasoline in terms of detergent additives. Something about their gasoline be in the top tier

Yeah, that's just a measure of sufficient detergents, which a bunch of standard retailers meet. It's only to combat deposits, and have no real bearing on performance, nor do they release any data on the comparisons.

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

 

[Zee]

Originally posted by: Apex

Originally posted by: Zee

Originally posted by: Apex

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.
ZV

Zenmervolt:

Do you happen to have any comparison test results of gasolines? I've always been curious about that, but haven't found anything worthwhile.

Thank you!

i read at a new article as well as a Shell press release how Shell exceeds the minimum standards required in gasoline in terms of detergent additives. Something about their gasoline be in the top tier

Yeah, that's just a measure of sufficient detergents, which a bunch of standard retailers meet. It's only to combat deposits, and have no real bearing on performance, nor do they release any data on the comparisons.

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

But that's the point isnt it?

http://www.latimes.com/news/printeditio...1,5470885.story?coll=la-news-highway_1

 

[Apex]

Originally posted by: Zee

Originally posted by: Apex

Originally posted by: Zee

Originally posted by: Apex

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.
ZV

Zenmervolt:

Do you happen to have any comparison test results of gasolines? I've always been curious about that, but haven't found anything worthwhile.

Thank you!

i read at a new article as well as a Shell press release how Shell exceeds the minimum standards required in gasoline in terms of detergent additives. Something about their gasoline be in the top tier

Yeah, that's just a measure of sufficient detergents, which a bunch of standard retailers meet. It's only to combat deposits, and have no real bearing on performance, nor do they release any data on the comparisons.

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

But that's the point isnt it?

http://www.latimes.com/news/printeditio...1,5470885.story?coll=la-news-highway_1

No, since you can simply use fuel system cleaner every so often.

If you're talking performance, we're really talking octane. Our octane ratings are simply a minimum "guaranteed". A real comparison test would show the differences.

 

[BoomerD]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: BoomerD
I don't EVER use any Shell product if I can help it. YES, I realize that you don't always know where your gasoline actually comes from, so I just don't buy at a Shell branded station. I don't do any business with Exxon either, but that's another issue

....

While that MAY be true, I'll still take my chances with the semi-synthetic blends over straight dino-oil.

That's nice, but do you care to actually support your issue with Shell? As I said, their gasolines and oils are consistantly at or near the top in comparison tests. Simply saying that you don't use it is worthless.

As for the comments on semi-synthetics, what I said about the formulation requirements is absolutely true. There are NO laws governing the minimum amount of synthetic componants that an oil needs to have in order to be labled "Synthetic Blend". In fact, Castrol's synthetic blend has not been shown to be significantly better than regular old Castrol GTX. The simple fact is that any quality regular oil will provide more than enough protection unless you have oil temperatures consistantly above 300 degrees (air-cooled engines, turbocharged engines), in which case you should be running full synthetic anyway. A good filter and a name-brand regular oil that is changed no less often than every 7,500 miles (assuming non-severe operating conditions and a good air filter) should allow just about any engine to hit 300,000 miles without any problems that are a result of the oilng system.

ZV

I'll only say that I spent almost 1-1/2 yrs working in the Shell refinery in Antioch, CA a few years ago, (Now Valero I think) and I choose not to buy their products. In part due to some of the things I saw go on there, and in part due to a desire NOT to knowingly give them any of my money. Their products MAY be ok, (although the one tank of Shell gas I had to get last summer on vacation sucked. I lost over 4 MPG on that tank and it took a couple of tankfuls of other gasoline to clean out whatever I got at that station. Could it have just been a contaminated tank at a rural gas station that co-incedentally happened to be a Shell station? You betcha, but it left a bad taste in my mouth, and reminded me that I'm NOT supposed to give them my money.
As for the synthetic blends vs. dino oil, I believe you, and I always change my oil at 3000 to 4000 miles. Always have, probably always will. The ONLY exception is when I ran Mobil 1 in my wife's BMW, and I pushed that to 6000 miles, with a filter change around 3000. I know Amsoil used to claim (and may still claim) 25000 miles between oil changes,(I think with a filter change in there somewhere) and that may be good, but it would concern me...I'll stick with what has worked well for me for over 30 yrs. Having worked as a heavy equipment oiler during my apprenticeship, we studied oils, their make-up, learned to do oil samples, how to read the results, etc. so I'm fairly well versed in the subject, but always willing to learn more, as I know technology changes every once in a while...

 

[cmv]

Go for Mobil 1. The reformulation means you shouldn't get any seal leaks but no guarantees (if I were you, I'd go to a Mercedes/Euro forum instead of asking here though so you can find out other peoples experience with the same model).

On another note, why do people think they can tell their oil needs to be changed by how dirty it is? Oil has detergents in it so it is supposed to get black. When I change mine, typically it stays about the same amount of blackness after a month or so up until the change time. In a diesel engine the oil is going to get blacker even quicker.

Consider going for the 15,000 mile Mobile oil. I decided to give it a shot. I'd stick with OEM filters though.

 

[RGN]

Originally posted by: Astaroth33
My '05 GTO, by the way, comes with Mobil 1 from the factory.

It sure did. I guess that is why those of us that bought '04's got them for such a good deal. 😀