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YACT: Anyone ever heard of "washing" your car engine?

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Originally posted by: Asharus
How much does a full detail cost at a car wash? I'm too lazy...

It takes me about 1 hour to wash/dry my car. No wax. I haven't waxed my car ever... I'm thinking I need to.
That depends... are you going to take it to some detail shop where 5 people gang up on your car at once... or are you going to have a mobile detailer come to you? You can probably look around on Autopia and see if any mobile detailers are in your area. Look to spend $150-200 for a good job though.


 
Originally posted by: Mutilator
Originally posted by: Asharus
How much does a full detail cost at a car wash? I'm too lazy...

It takes me about 1 hour to wash/dry my car. No wax. I haven't waxed my car ever... I'm thinking I need to.
That depends... are you going to take it to some detail shop where 5 people gang up on your car at once... or are you going to have a mobile detailer come to you? You can probably look around on Autopia and see if any mobile detailers are in your area. Look to spend $150-200 for a good job though.

I've been gang banged at my local carwash as well.
 
Yep, I wash under the hood at least twice a year. I take it to a local u-wash-it and use a pressure washer and Gunk. It's just part of doing regular maintenence. In addition to looking better, a clean engine runs cooler (dirt and grime are insulators, think of it as the same reason you dust out your computer on regular basis), any leaks can be immediately found, and your engine will probably last longer.
 
Originally posted by: Mutilator
For those of you using Simple Green... be careful with that stuff. I use to use it myself until I found out how harsh it is. Eats clear coat right off of painted wheels and etches aluminum engine blocks. I use Eimann Fabrik Hi Intensity now. You can get it at CMA.


I think you are right about that but they now make a simple green that is used for things like cleaning engines. I got it at the auto parts store and it says safe for use with engines. I don't now about the original stuff but I remember reading a report from the airforce saying not to use it anymore on planes because of the corrosion.
 
I've read somewhere that one routine to use is to use the orange foamy engine brite stuff from gunk according to directions, and then spary the whole engine bay with a can of WD40 and wipe up the extra.

My only concern is will the WD40 hurt anything under the engine?
 
I prefer to use ArmorAll after the engine has dried, you can try using WD40 but I see no benefit other than rust prevention.

DO NOT spray it on the exhaust unless yo0u want a fireball
 
Originally posted by: Roger
I prefer to use ArmorAll after the engine has dried, you can try using WD40 but I see no benefit other than rust prevention.

DO NOT spray it on the exhaust unless yo0u want a fireball

I don't like amorall because of the silicone oil content in it and its affect on rubber. I think of it this way...silicone on tires' sidewalls is bad (its not when you use it thats exactly bad, but when you discontinue the use, it [rubber] dries out, browns, and cracks), so silicone on rubber hoses in the engine bay could be worse, no?
 
I do that from time to time. It makes working on the car a lot less messy. Your car mechanic most certainly agrees.

There's not much to it. Make sure the plug wires/boots and distributor, if applicable, are in good shape and well sealed up with some silicone di-electric tune-up grease. Bring it to the self-serv carwash and spray the engine compartment down with Simple Green. Let it soak for a few minutes then start spraying, avoiding directing the high pressure spray toward any electrical wires and components.

It's simple enough most of the time, but you shouldn't do it if you don't know what steps to take if it doesn't start back up.
 
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