YACT: Air Conditioning

[Insane3D]

Ok, I've decided to pull the entire A/C system from my '92 Mustang GT. I have not used it in the 11 years I've had the car, other than turning it on once a year to keep the system working properly. It still blows extremely cold.

Anyhow, I am simply looking for solutions to have someone take my R12 so I don't have to just bleed it off into the air. Here's the problem. Almost every place I call can't handle the R12, and no longer have any equipment for it. The few shops I found that do, want like $50+, which is waay to steep IMO considering this stuff is like worth $50/pound, and my system should have like 4 or 5 lbs IIRC.

From what a few A/C guys in the area have told me, my R12 should still be in good shape, and will likely be in demand since the stuff is so expensive nowadays.

Is there any other places I can call that might do it for free, or no more than $25 or so? I mean it's a simple matter of hooking the tanks valve up to my compressor, and bleeding it off...shouldn't take more than a couple minutes and I won;t even be taking up a bay or anything.

Any ideas?

 

[Quixfire]

Try a salvage yard, there are required by law to reclaim the refrigerant from cars when they are junked, so they might have a machine.

 

[Insane3D]

Thanks Quixfire. I'll give that a try, but there is like one within 50 miles...lol.

 

[woowoo]

www.hvac-talk.com
Post there and find someone local.....

P.S. What you have is not worth much
"Virgin" r-12 is.

 

[Insane3D]

Allright...just called a local salvage yard, and they will do it for $30...I'll call a few other places but I bet that's the best deal I'm going to get. I almost wish I was one of those people who could care less about just dumping it in the air, but I'm not. The guy said it takes like a half hour to forty five minutes???

 

[woowoo]

Yep, Reclaim machine runs slow.

I would reconsider if you are ever going to sell the car.
Cold air on a 92' = $$$$$

 

[Insane3D]

Sell the car?!?! NEVARRRR!!! I've done so much to it, when the motor dies, I will probably just move the GT40X heads and intake over to a brand new FMS 347 stroker.

Also, I need to discharge it anyhow because I need to change the heater core, and I will never be able to get it recharged for what R12 costs. Also, for some reason having to do with the design of the A/C system on the car, there is really no conversion kit for it unless you pick and choose parts and replace a good deal of the system. So basically, either way it would never be cost effective to have it recharged or converted.

As I said before, I have never needed it in the 11 years I've owned the car...I really only have on really hot month up here in NH (August) so it's no problem.

 

[lobadobadingdong]

I would just leave it on, unless you just really want to claim the 1-4 HP that having it idle takes away. but yes it will cost you in the range (in texas it's between $60-100 to have a vacuum pull the refigerant for recycling....very few places will put the old refigerant into another car since they don't know how much oil is in the mix)

wow on the not using the AC in 11 years, I use mine at least 11months out of the year.

 

[Insane3D]

No offense...have you read my posts? I have had the car for a long time, I will not be selling it, I don't need A/C and I will not be able to get it recharged or working again NO MATTER WHAT. WTF would I just leave it on there?

I AM NOT DOING THIS FOR HP GAIN

:|

 

[lobadobadingdong]

Originally posted by: Insane3D
WTF would I just leave it on there?

I AM NOT DOING THIS FOR HP GAIN

:|

in case you ever do any travel with it. if you plan to keep it forever you may want to take it with you to florida when you are old and decrepid to retire. there you'll be begging for the AC.

 

[Insane3D]

Ok, I guess I need to be more clear. It will never be cost effective to have it recharged. Conversion kit is not an option. Only option would be a R12 recharge. An R12 recharge now would be too expensive to consider. There are no other options other than leave the whole system, non functioning, on the car. I will keep the stuff should I ever want to put it back, but how much do you think a R12 recharge will be in say...5 years? 10 years? I'm having this much trouble now finding a place to even take it.

The A/C system is coming out

Oh, and I will never be moving to Florida...ever. I enjoy the winters up here in NH, and if I ever moved, it would be north. I even drive my Mustang during the winter. It's no problem with four blizzaks and 11 winters worth of experience. A/C, I may need one month per year, but I need my heater core more. I went through the entire past winter with no heat, and we had two or three weeks worth of -20F temperatures. Come this winter, my heat will be working.

 

[Insane3D]

W00t!! Just called up one last garage who supposedly "specializes" in R12, and they said they would discharge my system FOR FREE!!!



Thanks all!

 

[Ladies Man]

Give me your a/c! My mustang blows air hot as hell and i'm broke as sh!t!

Second you have incorrectly stated that there is no easy conversion....
you can buy the kit from Walmart, Advanced Auto or any parts store. R-134a

There are some downsides to it though........

The R 134 needs more air pulled across the condenser at idle. That is one reason it does not cool as well at idle or in stop and go traffic. On long trips it will freeze you out. But in the city it is not as powerful. The 134 can cool as well as the 12 if it is converted properly. There is a kit offered for the 86-93's but it does not use the factory hoses, compressor, or dryer.


So... you could switch at very little cost to R-134a as long as you don't mind some decreased cooling, or even switch over through a kit for just as good cooling.

Completely removing your a/c isn't your only option

 

[homestarmy]

Hey, while we're at it, can someone tell me how I can tell if my girlfriend's CRX was converted or not? When she first got it she spent like $600 to get the AC working, so I'm assuming it was switched over... How can I tell?

It needs to be recharged is why I ask...

 

[Insane3D]

Originally posted by: Ladies Man
Give me your a/c! My mustang blows air hot as hell and i'm broke as sh!t!

Second you have incorrectly stated that there is no easy conversion....
you can buy the kit from Walmart, Advanced Auto or any parts store. R-134a

There are some downsides to it though........

The R 134 needs more air pulled across the condenser at idle. That is one reason it does not cool as well at idle or in stop and go traffic. On long trips it will freeze you out. But in the city it is not as powerful. The 134 can cool as well as the 12 if it is converted properly. There is a kit offered for the 86-93's but it does not use the factory hoses, compressor, or dryer.


So... you could switch at very little cost to R-134a as long as you don't mind some decreased cooling, or even switch over through a kit for just as good cooling.

Completely removing your a/c isn't your only option

Ahh...I had heard there was a kit out there, but it was very expensive, you basically needed to replace everything but the condensor, and didn't work very good due to the reason you mentioned about air flow. As I stated before, but I think people seem to have a hard time getting over, I NEVER HAVE FELT THE NEED TO USE MY A/C IN ALMOST 12 YEARS.

For me to spend anymore than a few bucks to keep it in there is just not worth it to me. Why would I spend money on a A/C system that I never use? It's sort of like spending big money on a stereo system that you never turn on.

Anyhow, where are you located? If you really want all the stuff, it's yours but I'm not sure how it's going to help you.



Edit:

I'm also drooling at how much space I can free up in my engine compartment since I'm currently in the process of cleaning everything up and rewiring some of the crappy ass Ford wiring. Stupid crap like running two 10Ga leads off the alternator, then merge into one, then into a 12ga fuseable link, then back upto a 8Ga lead. The wires as they are in there don't even meet the current requirements of the alternator...it's a wonder more don't burn up the wiring.

 

[Ladies Man]

heh if I knew how I would drive up and get it but somehow i could see myself becoming toxic after fooling with the r-12. I plan on just converting it when I have the time/money. I'm in baltimore. 90 degree heat with 90+% humidity. Fun fun.

Yes it is nice the space you free up and since you are redoing your wiring you should upgrade your alternator. Get a 130amp alternator and upgrade the wiring then. With the new alternator you can now easily use under drive pully kit without worrying about your voltage at idle.

 

[Ladies Man]

here's an article on the alternator...

http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/130a-tech.html

 

[Insane3D]

Waaaaay ahead of you man.

I picked up the PA Performance 95A(120A) 3G Alternator already, and it's sitting next to me. The 130A is nice too, but you need to modify the bracket due to the larger size. The 120A (95A) model is plenty of power for what I've got in the car, and I won't need to grind down the bracket. I also picked up a nice 10' foot length of 1800+ strand stereo grade power wire, platnium coated terminals, 150A fuse, and ANL fuse holder to make my own power wire. The stuff I'm using is better than their $60 "premium wire" kit and it doesn't have a overkill 200A fuse.

I also picked up a 2ft length of 1/0gauge power wire and a platnium coated battery terminal to redo my batteries positive lead, and I've got some black 4Ga on the way to replace my negative lead. I'll prolly move to one of those Optima batteries when funds permit.