If I'm going to run a GC68 on an XP 1700+ at stock speeds, is there any reason to buy Arctic Silver instead of just using the goop that came with the hsf?
XP 1700+ and GC68
- Thread starter Scottee
- Start date
I just got in the GC68 for mine. Right now I am using the retail heatsink and the goop that came with my Soyo Dragon + MB. I have never seen over 56C with the old heatsink / goop, so I will probably just clean up the cpu a bit and use my Soyo goop again. I am sure the GC68 stuff isn't bad either.
I have the GC68 on a slightly overclocked XP1500 (only at 1.4 GHz using 140 MHz FSB, didn't unlock the cpu) and I can't say enough good things about it. Long story short: highest temp reading I've ever seen was 43 c in the middle of the summer with a 38 c case temp; usually only a 2 - 3 c temp differential between case and cpu (using MBM 5). And that was using the SVC-supplied thermal grease and a lower powered Panaflow fan (24 cfm vs 32 cfv stock). You can't go wrong for around $7 shipped.
As far as thermal grease application, I generally do it a little different than others. I usually smear just a thin, nearly transparent film on both the heat sink and cpu. Then I apply a small, round dot of grease to the center of the cpu and place the heatsink on the cpu, making sure to keep the heatsink as parallel as possible to the cpu surface. Then I apply a slight downward force and slightly twist the heatsink back and forth a couple of times. Then, I clip the heatsink to the lugs making sure not to rock the heatsink off of the cpu which would break the grease interface.
The reason I think that this method has worked well for me is that by placing the small dot of grease in the center of the cpu and working it outward toward the edges. It effectively minimizes the possiblity of trapping air between the heatsink and cpu as the advancing grease layer displaces the air in front of it as it moves outward. Using the normal method of coating both surfaces with grease, I feel there is the possibility of trapping air if there are any uneven areas or ridges in the grease layers.
Sorry about the long winded response, get the GC68 and have fun.
As far as thermal grease application, I generally do it a little different than others. I usually smear just a thin, nearly transparent film on both the heat sink and cpu. Then I apply a small, round dot of grease to the center of the cpu and place the heatsink on the cpu, making sure to keep the heatsink as parallel as possible to the cpu surface. Then I apply a slight downward force and slightly twist the heatsink back and forth a couple of times. Then, I clip the heatsink to the lugs making sure not to rock the heatsink off of the cpu which would break the grease interface.
The reason I think that this method has worked well for me is that by placing the small dot of grease in the center of the cpu and working it outward toward the edges. It effectively minimizes the possiblity of trapping air between the heatsink and cpu as the advancing grease layer displaces the air in front of it as it moves outward. Using the normal method of coating both surfaces with grease, I feel there is the possibility of trapping air if there are any uneven areas or ridges in the grease layers.
Sorry about the long winded response, get the GC68 and have fun.
I like applying my grease with a razor blade. I just put a dab on the heatsink and then spread it uber-thin ~postage stamp size. I haven't had too bad of luck doing that. I will be installing my GC68 this weekend. Hopefully I won't have much trouble removing the old grease from the CPU. I had a hell of a time removing the old waxy pad from it the first time. Yuck!
Soulkeeper
Diamond Member
- Nov 23, 2001
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ok, what's a GC68 ??
is it a new heatsink, or just short for the real name of the heatsink ??
i havn't been keepin up on the acronyms for new products in the heatsink area week by week
is it a new heatsink, or just short for the real name of the heatsink ??
i havn't been keepin up on the acronyms for new products in the heatsink area week by week
Well, I replaced my retail HS/Fan with my new GC68, and it is a lot quieter now. I am about 2C cooler than before (running at 42.5C now). I did notice that my FOC in the bios made my computer shut off because the fan RPM's are only running at ~2200 rather than the 3000+ it was expecting. I ended up having to turn it off. Anyway, things are running fine now and a good bit quieter.
When I hit 42.5C I was running 2 web browsers, ICQ, and a TV in a window. BTW, the finish on the GC68 was pretty good. Not supershiny like a copper bottom, but really good for an aluminum.
The standard goop should do the job at stock speeds. I personally use Type 44 on everything, partly because I trust it, and because I bought an 8 oz. tube years ago, super cheap, it's a lifetime supply.
Before installing the gc68, remove the fan, make sure that the crossbar on the clip is located so that the clip hangs evenly off of both sides of the sink, and that the pressure point will be directly on the processor die. Install the sink, then the fan afterward. The clip isn't great, I use two screwdrivers, one to push down, the other to pry it away from the side of the socket. Far from the worst clip I ever installed, some Vantecs have that dubious distinction.
Nexfan markets the same item as the Galaxy Monster, and they've been sold elsewhere under even more labels. Not that they're some killer HSF, they're not, but they provide performance similar to stock on 1600-1800 XP's at a much lower noise level. They won't fit boards that have tall capacitors near the socket unless modified. Some have indicated that the latest batch from SVC doesn't have as good a finish on the base as older ones. I haven't bought any lately, and I'm not sure how much it really matters, anyway....
The $6 pricetag is correct, goes to show ya just how easy it is to overspend on this stuff....
Before installing the gc68, remove the fan, make sure that the crossbar on the clip is located so that the clip hangs evenly off of both sides of the sink, and that the pressure point will be directly on the processor die. Install the sink, then the fan afterward. The clip isn't great, I use two screwdrivers, one to push down, the other to pry it away from the side of the socket. Far from the worst clip I ever installed, some Vantecs have that dubious distinction.
Nexfan markets the same item as the Galaxy Monster, and they've been sold elsewhere under even more labels. Not that they're some killer HSF, they're not, but they provide performance similar to stock on 1600-1800 XP's at a much lower noise level. They won't fit boards that have tall capacitors near the socket unless modified. Some have indicated that the latest batch from SVC doesn't have as good a finish on the base as older ones. I haven't bought any lately, and I'm not sure how much it really matters, anyway....
The $6 pricetag is correct, goes to show ya just how easy it is to overspend on this stuff....
Thanks for all the responses. The CPU and MB come in this week, so I'll let you know how it goes.
- Aug 22, 2001
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Well I paid 35$ for a SLK-800 w/80mm Sunon in the FS/FT forum and had it on a 53$ 1600+ AGOIA and was running it@1.87ghz 178fsb 1.9v a level of performance I would have had to have spent 3-4 times as much to acheive without overclocking therefore making it a more than equitable purchase IMHO. If you call that madness then surely I'm a lunatic
I submit that it's purely a matter of perspective and practical application as to wether a 50$ HS/F on a 50$ CPU is equitable or even a hot deal or not BTW I had a GC68 w/ASII and 52CFM 80mm fan on a 1600+@ 1.75ghz case temp of 32c-33c and thye SETI load temp was 63c-66c on a 8K3A that reads the on-die diode giving a more accurate temp and explaining the seemingly high readings, which are still safe if the system remains stable as the CPU is rated to 90c+ so the GC68 is a great price/performance solution I just like to keep 'em cooler for better/higher max overclocking results personally.
- Aug 22, 2001
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The SLK-800 was actually on a 8K3A+ at the same time as the GC68/8K3A combo and even though clocked higher and running@1.9v as oppossed to the 1.775v the 1.75ghz rig was running at the CPU temp was 46c-47c tops under SETI load with the same case temp and fan as read by the on-board sensor as well.. BTW he didn't even have the SLK-800 in the thread title and I only noticed it when I was looking at the 8K3A+ which I bought with it off him You should snatch it up@ that price as it'll undoubtedly go back up soon
You should snatch it up@ that price as it'll undoubtedly go back up soon Everything's installed and working great. Using the goop that came with the GC68, I've got 35.5C while doing normal computing stuff. Haven't checked with the system loaded yet. Thanks for all the tips. I used PullMyFinger's method.
THe only one problem I have is that it reboots in Wracraft III sometimes. And only in Warcraft. Any ideas? THe CPU temps are fine.
THe only one problem I have is that it reboots in Wracraft III sometimes. And only in Warcraft. Any ideas? THe CPU temps are fine.
- Aug 22, 2001
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Listing your full system specs is very helpful but off the top of my head advice is make sure you have all updates for the game installed as well as latest drivers for vid card, motherboard, and your sound card, and that none of your hardware is on a issues list for the game.
I saw one of your previous posts about it possibly being bad RAM, but I just checked that, and it's not the RAM.
Asus A7N266-VM nforce
integrated sound, GeForce2mx, and ethernet
XP1700+ with GC68
2 sticks 256mb ddr Kingston ValueRAM
Cendyne 48x16x48 (Optorite)
Comet case w/ 400w ps
I have the latest drivers for the chipset, video, sound, and ethernet. I checked the RAM. THe CPU temps are perfectly fine. I also don't think it's anything specifically with Warcraft, because every once in a while, I get a blue screen on boot up, which I forgot to mention.
Asus A7N266-VM nforce
integrated sound, GeForce2mx, and ethernet
XP1700+ with GC68
2 sticks 256mb ddr Kingston ValueRAM
Cendyne 48x16x48 (Optorite)
Comet case w/ 400w ps
I have the latest drivers for the chipset, video, sound, and ethernet. I checked the RAM. THe CPU temps are perfectly fine. I also don't think it's anything specifically with Warcraft, because every once in a while, I get a blue screen on boot up, which I forgot to mention.
- Aug 22, 2001
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I used Crucial with my A7N266-VM and had no issues but I've never played the WC series though I played UT2K3 at lower settings with the G2MX on-board and it ran fine, are the memory timmings by SPD in the bios? Did you flash the latest bios for the board? Got all the windows updates? in the end if all of those things fail to resolve your instability problems trying different ram is about the only thing leftt I'd give a go since it's highly doubtful the PSU is to blame, then if I still had stability issues I'd RMA the board, good luck and post back with a update
In all the tinkering I was doing to try and figure out what was causing my problem, I tried reseating the HSF. I must have done a bad job of it, because the temps were a little higher after this. My friend believes that the problem is a bad CPU. It runs fine doing menial stuff, but when I do something CPU intensive (like play Warcraft), it reboots. I just put in a request to RMA the CPU. Does this sound right?
- Aug 22, 2001
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If you're using Windows XP then the default is to reboot when their is a problem, to stop the reboot you can right click my computer, click properties, click advanced tab, click settings under startup and recovery,and uncheck the automatically reboot box under system failure. You can check the system log to see if an event has been written there and search the MSKB (microsoft knowledge base) for it and see if there's a KB article for it. BTW you never answered all my questions and I highly doubt it's CPU related based on the symptoms but it's your call and your system so do as you feel is best
and I highly doubt it's CPU related based on the symptoms but it's your call and your system so do as you feel is best Sorry.
I have Windows 98 on it right now. And 98 shouldn't reboot like that. That's why I think it's hardware. Also, the blue screen shows up sometimes before it gets to Windows loading. I have all the latest updates for that.
The board has the latest bios already on it. 1.004. Should I try downgrading the bios to 1.003?
The memory timings are by SPD. I played around with them and tried them all out. There seemed to be a little more or less frequency with how long Warcraft would run before it reboot. So maybe memory timings affected the problem a little. Or maybe it didn't. Also, on the slowest timing available, it froze the machine in Warcraft instead of rebooting. Does that mean anything?
I also tried one of the sticks of RAM at a time, in different slot combinations, leading me to believe it's not the RAM. Unless it's both sticks. They're both Kingston ValueRAM. So maybe this board doesn't like this type of RAM? I don't have any friends with ddr to borrow and try.
Maybe I'll try searching even farther for someone I know who has some ddr. I'll try that tomorrow. Also, before I actually send the CPU out, I was going to try running another friends Athlon on the board. Cuz that would help rule out the CPU. If I have to RMA something, I don't get too much time to do it.
I have Windows 98 on it right now. And 98 shouldn't reboot like that. That's why I think it's hardware. Also, the blue screen shows up sometimes before it gets to Windows loading. I have all the latest updates for that.
The board has the latest bios already on it. 1.004. Should I try downgrading the bios to 1.003?
The memory timings are by SPD. I played around with them and tried them all out. There seemed to be a little more or less frequency with how long Warcraft would run before it reboot. So maybe memory timings affected the problem a little. Or maybe it didn't. Also, on the slowest timing available, it froze the machine in Warcraft instead of rebooting. Does that mean anything?
I also tried one of the sticks of RAM at a time, in different slot combinations, leading me to believe it's not the RAM. Unless it's both sticks. They're both Kingston ValueRAM. So maybe this board doesn't like this type of RAM? I don't have any friends with ddr to borrow and try.
Maybe I'll try searching even farther for someone I know who has some ddr. I'll try that tomorrow. Also, before I actually send the CPU out, I was going to try running another friends Athlon on the board. Cuz that would help rule out the CPU. If I have to RMA something, I don't get too much time to do it.
- Aug 22, 2001
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I see said the blind man, You nailed the best course of action to take right now under your circumstances, if your buddies CPU doesn't flake out then go ahead with the RMA and if it doesn't resolve the issue I would definitely surmise the Kingston is causing problems or the board is flakey.
Scottee,
Have you tried any other cpu intensive programs (sandra burn in, seti, etc)? I used to have a problem when using Win98SE where it would completely restart my machine if I tried to do a print preview using a particular photo editing program. My only option was to reinstall the operating system, I tried removing and reinstalling almost every program on the machine prior to the operating system, to no avail.
I would be willing to bet that you have a software conflict rather than a hardware problem. By all means, check the hardware first as it may be something which is easily fixed/replaced, but I wouldn't rule out the possibility of a software or operating system problem. Unfortunately, sometimes the only way solve a problem like this is to remove and reinstall the program in which the problem occurs or reinstall the entire operating system.
Good luck and keep us posted, the more eyes and ears on this topic, the better the chance that someone already has the solution for you.
Have you tried any other cpu intensive programs (sandra burn in, seti, etc)? I used to have a problem when using Win98SE where it would completely restart my machine if I tried to do a print preview using a particular photo editing program. My only option was to reinstall the operating system, I tried removing and reinstalling almost every program on the machine prior to the operating system, to no avail.
I would be willing to bet that you have a software conflict rather than a hardware problem. By all means, check the hardware first as it may be something which is easily fixed/replaced, but I wouldn't rule out the possibility of a software or operating system problem. Unfortunately, sometimes the only way solve a problem like this is to remove and reinstall the program in which the problem occurs or reinstall the entire operating system.
Good luck and keep us posted, the more eyes and ears on this topic, the better the chance that someone already has the solution for you.
I was really suspicious when it was only having problems while running Warcraft. And now I believe it's not a hardware problem, but it has something to do with running a graphics intensive game like Warcraft. I found a thread here where other people are having the exact same problem while running Warcraft.
I'm currently playing around with hardware acceleration settings, turning them down, though that hasn't seemed to work yet. It's a possibility that the RAM, and not the CPU, is overheating. I have an nforce, and so the RAM is shared by the GPU.
The main problem I'm having now is that I can only lower my video acceleration one notch, because any lower and directx won't run. If directx won't run, it won't let me even start up Warcraft.
I'm currently playing around with hardware acceleration settings, turning them down, though that hasn't seemed to work yet. It's a possibility that the RAM, and not the CPU, is overheating. I have an nforce, and so the RAM is shared by the GPU.
The main problem I'm having now is that I can only lower my video acceleration one notch, because any lower and directx won't run. If directx won't run, it won't let me even start up Warcraft.
- Aug 22, 2001
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Nvidia just released new Unified Driver Package yesterday so perhaps it'll address the issue, can't hurt
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