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XJ Jeep and the '99 to '01 models questions

Quiksilver

Quiksilver

Diamond Member
Wikipedia
In the middle of the 1999 model year, vehicles with the 4.0 liter engine received a much improved intake manifold. This was done to help counteract smaller exhaust porting on the latest casting of cylinder heads, which was done to meet more stringent emissions control laws. Both the 4- and 6-cylinder engines were offered through the 2000 model year, though only the straight-six was available in 2001. For the 2000 and 2001 model years, all six-cylinder XJs received a distributorless ignition system using coil-on-plug ignition replacing the 'traditional' system previously used; coupled with better exhaust porting and the newer intake manifolds, this gave a minor increase in power over the previous models. Transmission, axle, and transfer case choices were carried over from the previous models.

As shown per wikipedia, the only difference between the '99 models and 2000/2001 models is the ignition system and if I'm reading that right they improved the porting and manifold again.

Would you say that purchasing a 2000 or 2001 model over a 1999 model would be a better purchase?

Let's say you were to make some exhaust changes anyway(headers back), would you say the difference between the '99 and 2000/2001 models wouldn't make much a difference?

Is the ignition system in the newer 2000/2001 models better than the traditional one in the '99?

*Edit*

New Question.

Are their any problems with a 1998 ZJ? specifically the 5.9L Limited one. One of those just went up for sale nearby me and is selling for much cheaper than a '99 XJ.
 
I had a 94 ZJ and a 97 ZJ both with the 4.0. Neither had a problem with the ignition after 100k+ miles. The only problem I ever had with the exhaust manifolds was cracking on the 94.

I love the XJ's, but the "newer" ones were really short on headroom for me.
 
Your best bet is to just look for the best '97 or later vehicle that you can find (they made big changes in '97 which were worthwhile, everything after that was relatively minor). A well cared for '97-99 will be a far better vehicle than an abused '00-01. If everything is equal I'd get the newer one over the older just because it's a few years newer and less likely to have problems because of age. Otherwise just grab the nicest one you can find.

My '97 is a blast to drive.
 
99 is the best year. It has the old intake, which means you can swap in the much freer flowing 00/01 without the 00/01 emissions stuff. The new intake manifold is good for 15hp in a 99. The small increase in power in 2000 was because of the addition of more emissions controls plus the very good intake.

Here is a writeup on the swap: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoIntakeManifold1.htm

Also, in 2000 a bad head design was used, and they have a tendancy to crack. The problem head casting number is 0331.

<--- on my second 99 XJ, also had a 99 TJ.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
99 is the best year. It has the old intake, which means you can swap in the much freer flowing 00/01 without the 00/01 emissions stuff. The new intake manifold is good for 15hp in a 99. The small increase in power in 2000 was because of the addition of more emissions controls plus the very good intake.

Here is a writeup on the swap: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoIntakeManifold1.htm

Also, in 2000 a bad head design was used, and they have a tendancy to crack. The problem head casting number is 0331.

<--- on my second 99 XJ, also had a 99 TJ.
Click to expand...

Epic win of this thread.

I've been back and forth between the 99's and 00/01's for the like past few weeks; even though the price difference between them are only about 1 grand.

Do you have any information about the ignition system by chance? I'm assuming the older variants will be easier to work on and parts will be more readily availible but I'm not 100% on that.
 
They are both ok, neither are problem spots. The distributor is cheaper and easier to work on, the coil packs last longer.
 
In general XJ parts are pretty affordable and easy to find. So far the only thing I'm having an issue with is some stupid little nut strips that you bolt the trailer hitch to. I got a hitch from a friend but my '97 didn't come with a hitch so I need to find the stupid strips so I can install it. I'll probably have to go to a junkyard.
 
Get some J-clips like this: http://www.calvauto.com/content/images/JClip.jpg

Stick them up the holes in the "frame" and then feed them over to the holes. They cannot rotate in the rail and so you can thread the bolts in.

As Bignate said, parts are exceptionally cheap. I could pick up an entire engine, with accessories, for under $150. Same goes for axles, transfer case, transmission.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Get some J-clips like this: http://www.calvauto.com/content/images/JClip.jpg

Stick them up the holes in the "frame" and then feed them over to the holes. They cannot rotate in the rail and so you can thread the bolts in.

As Bignate said, parts are exceptionally cheap. I could pick up an entire engine, with accessories, for under $150. Same goes for axles, transfer case, transmission.
Click to expand...

I was planning on being able to use the hitch as a recovery point if I had to. The nut strips spread the force out more than J-clips so there's less of a chance of pulling through the rails. If I was just going to use a hitch as a hitch it would probably be fine though.
 
With 8 bolts I think you are spreading it enough. I used my hitch as a recovery point and it never failed me. My front tow hooks bent before it did.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
With 8 bolts I think you are spreading it enough. I used my hitch as a recovery point and it never failed me. My front tow hooks bent before it did.
Click to expand...

I've read a few places where people have had it tear through the metal. I'm not sure if they were using all 8 bolts but if I can track down those strips I'll grab them. The way things are going though I may end up with the J-clips. They'd probably be easier because I could fish it through instead of having to remove the whole bumper to get the nut strip in.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
They are both ok, neither are problem spots. The distributor is cheaper and easier to work on, the coil packs last longer.
Click to expand...

The coil packs also have less of a tendency to get wet during water crossings.

<- 99TJ and speaking from previous experience of soaking a distributor
 
Stay away from the 5.9L unless you like to tinker. The electrical gizmos will break, transmissions are remarkably expensive, the full time 4wd transfer case will eat it's viscous coupling, and the gas mileage is bad. But damn it sound good, and it's fast.

I had a buddy who stroked his 5.9L. That thing was scary.
 
Yeah... I'm tossin this idea out. I wondered what the Quadra-drive was, until I looked it up and the gas mileage does suck.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
99 is the best year. It has the old intake, which means you can swap in the much freer flowing 00/01 without the 00/01 emissions stuff. The new intake manifold is good for 15hp in a 99. The small increase in power in 2000 was because of the addition of more emissions controls plus the very good intake.

Here is a writeup on the swap: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoIntakeManifold1.htm

Also, in 2000 a bad head design was used, and they have a tendancy to crack. The problem head casting number is 0331.

<--- on my second 99 XJ, also had a 99 TJ.
Click to expand...

Holy crap I never realized this. I am going to start looking around for one to slap on my '97 ZJ.
 
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