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Worklog: Lian Li PC-Z70B Black Edition

WorldExclusive

Senior member
Lian Li PC-Z70B w/ Wrinkle Powdercoat

Project Canceled - Sold the Case

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This is more of a appearance mod than a construction mod. This case has been powdercoated using a Wrinkle Coat. Later I will install a custom window design into the side panel using waterjet cutting. The pace will be slow since I'm waiting for the new AMD 7900 cards to be release to add a WC loop. So I will bump the thread as I finish each phase.

Unboxing:

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Strip Down:

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Removable 3x120 fan bracket, can be mounted to the left or right of the HDD holder, but I will mount it in the rear for direct air flow.

Here's an example of the rear fan mounting.

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Back from the powder coating Shop. Thanks to Patty of Innovate Power Coating in Ft. Lauderdale, FL.
Was done in a beautiful "Wrinkle Black" finish. I got the inspiration from truck bedliner that another member used to mod his case here at [H].

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Re-Assembly:

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More to come (PC component assembly and front panel sleeving)

The current camera I have is cheap and struggles with taking photos without flash.
I'm in the market for a new cam so I should have more and better photos soon.

Phase 1 Completed:
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Still not done, I have two more phases in order to complete the project.

Next Phase: Custom Window with 5.25" bay cover.

Last phase: WC Loop
 
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That looks nice . Just to give you and al others a heads up on aluminium anodized parts . They except paint wonderfully. But there is a problem . Anodizing has many steps . After a part is anodized. This is were the problem comes in . Its sealed this sealer does except paint better than virgin aluminium . Its NOT alot better. you should have it re anodized first . Off with the old and on with the new . Without the sealer process. Just letting ya know the facts.
 
wow pretty


did the powder coating much up with the tolerances much?

The frame was raw aluminum and most likely blasted before powder coated.
The fitment of the parts were butter smooth. The finish looks textured, but it's almost as smooth as a standard finish.
Also the Wrinkle Finish makes the PC super durable against scratches, dings and doesn't leave finger prints.

That looks nice . Just to give you and al others a heads up on aluminium anodized parts . They except paint wonderfully. But there is a problem . Anodizing has many steps . After a part is anodized. This is were the problem comes in . Its sealed this sealer does except paint better than virgin aluminium . Its NOT alot better. you should have it re anodized first . Off with the old and on with the new . Without the sealer process. Just letting ya know the facts.

I tried to anodize the case first using the bright black finish but it was too pricey and could have corroded any steel parts if any. Too risky plus the finish scratches easily so I went with powder coating.

That's pretty snappy... I love krinkle finish.

Thanks.
 
Yes Brite dipping does add to the cost . But I would look for another anodizing shop if you can have it powder coated much cheaper. Also to avoid brite dipping one only needs to polish the aluminium. Ya its alot of work. Me I wouldn't worry about finger prints inside the case as it wise to ware plastic gloves a box of 500 is like $5. As for scratching A proper anodized sealed part is likely more durable than powder coating although that is indeed durable. Both have there good points and bad points. Tolerance changes is a bad point . You will likely find that out when you install the video card in its hold down cage. I see you already got the Video card in . Any problems with that?

Any way that case does look great . I like it so it must be nice.
 
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IF you going to use bay cover for widow . As soon as I get parts back from Shop . I will give you a RP-452X2 dual bay cover. Roberts in England right now . But we talked earilier today about some changes I want to make he should be back Weds next week . So it won't be long and he will have machine work done. I already gave away the other one I had. I also have the TNK-501 single bay cover . Your welcome to either or both.
 
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Yes Brite dipping does add to the cost . But I would look for another anodizing shop if you can have it powder coated much cheaper. Also to avoid brite dipping one only needs to polish the aluminium. Ya its alot of work. Me I wouldn't worry about finger prints inside the case as it wise to were plastic gloves a box of 500 is like $5. As for scratching A proper anodized sealed part is likely more durable than powder coating although that is indeed durable. Both have there good points and bad points. Tolerance changes is a bad point . You will likely find that out when you install the video card in its hold down cage. I see you already got the Video card in . Any problems with that?

Any way that case does look great . I like it so it must be nice.
The video card was a little tough to get in, mianly because one of the wire management clamps(will post a photo of them tomorrow) was right behind the PCI slot holes, but I'm sure the coat had a little to do with it also. I would say the most noticeable difference in tolerances is when sliding the side panels back on, it takes a little force to do it but nothing serious. Only one company was capable of doing the brite black finish I wanted in my area, potentially costing me $300. The powder coat job only cost me $50.

IF you going to use bay cover for widow . As soon as I get parts back from Shop . I will give you a RP-452X2 dual bay cover. Roberts in England right now . But we talked earilier today about some changes I want to make he should be back Weds next week . So it won't be long and he will have machine work done. I already gave away the other one I had.

Ok let me know.
 
$ 300 that place is criminal . You can have your own anodizing setup tho it be small for about for About 600. As soon as the bay tolerances are measured . Robert should be good to go. Must not see gap around bays . I like .010
 
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OP as a side note I really wish you would give some thought as to why your turn your PS fan down to take cool air in from the fresh air opening provided in the case . We block that off so air can't enter. Its for good reason. You want positive air pressure but just a slight amount. Its at the bottom of the case so the case heat on a case like yours isn't gong to have a large effect on PS efficiency . To much positive pressure in the case does have a bad impact on air flow. Just saying give it a little thought. We use the proper instruments to measure this . But you don't need the data to comprehind what I elude to. post 12 . I see you had it in both ways. Yes I know where the hold down on the case comes across the PS on top . So don't use the Lian li hold down . Your bright there are many other methods.
 
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Op . I assume your hard drives are going in the top 3 bays . If your a gamer and you plan on using an SSD with games loaded on it . Your going to be in for a shock. With game loaded an SSD when gaming these things get really hot . It floored me as to just how hot they get. I have good airflow over them and it still alarms me.
 
OP as a side note I really wish you would give some thought as to why your turn your PS fan down to take cool air in from the fresh air opening provided in the case . We block that off so air can't enter. Its for good reason. You want positive air pressure but just a slight amount. Its at the bottom of the case so the case heat on a case like yours isn't gong to have a large effect on PS efficiency . To much positive pressure in the case does have a bad impact on air flow. Just saying give it a little thought. We use the proper instruments to measure this . But you don't need the data to comprehind what I elude to. post 12 . I see you had it in both ways. Yes I know where the hold down on the case comes across the PS on top . So don't use the Lian li hold down . Your bright there are many other methods.

I turn the PSU upside down because when I'm working on the PC, I don't want screws to drop inside and the cables are longer when the PSU is upside down. If I turn the PSU right side up, the cables will be shorted and in a case like this, the cables barely reaches as it is.

Op . I assume your hard drives are going in the top 3 bays . If your a gamer and you plan on using an SSD with games loaded on it . Your going to be in for a shock. With game loaded an SSD when gaming these things get really hot . It floored me as to just how hot they get. I have good airflow over them and it still alarms me.

Using HWMonitor, the HDDs are around 35C without direct airflow.
Are you talking about "hot to touch" or high temperatures when monitoring them?
 
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